Kurai

Somehow Kamila's work clicks with me on levels I thought were impossible. Her "Immensité Bleue - Dark Meadow | Kamila Aubre" miraculously convinced me on the fougère genre, which I used to avoid at all cost. With Sambacus again she had me reconsider my stance. This time on the topic of balsamic notes.

While labdanum is the first note to hit the nostrils, it is the immense galbanum note that follows to produce a deep ambery glow. Its usual dark shades are transformed into a shiny green hue by a single drop of lime juice. Surely this is one of the finest galbanum moments I have experienced in a while. Resinous, sappy, dark and sparkling.

What follows is another moment of sheer joy. When the dark green amber transitions into a more balsamic floral, it feels like my whole body radiates. The jasmine of choice is delicious. Indoles are to be found in minimal dosage. The peru balsam and the tonka, not exactly among my favorite notes, do a lovely job giving off warmth and adding a slight creamy sensation to the florals. Even in the late drydown the afterglow of the top notes is present.

The balsamic-floral approach is already lovely but that emerald green galbanum touch is just brilliant. To think that this is a 100% botanical perfume just blows my mind.

This is Kamila Aubre's interpretation of ambergris using botanical ingredients only. It is impressive how much depth is created without animalic or synthetic musks. The perfume forms an enveloping warmth somewhere between ambery and leathery, which I find most suitable for cold weather situations, especially outdoors. I do think this is more a singular accord than a full-blown composition as it lacks a certain progression from top to base. There is a surprisingly spicy edge, which suppresses the softer floral and delicate powdery sides a bit. I wish the balance would tip the other way, personally. Other than that, it is a pleasure to wear Kamila's highly inspiring creations.

When the perfumer claims "this is not a perfume but an artisanal and artistic olfactory creation", it is obvious a few IFRA rules have been broken for the sake of an optimal olfactory experience. Being blessed with a thick elephant skin free of sensitivities towards raw materials, I am instantly drawn to perfumes that come with such disclaimers. In Angeliki I found another confirmation that this is where the good stuff at.

Angeliki has a great old-fashioned structure with an evolution through fresh, floral and balsamic stages and comes with a set of musks that truly purr. But this is not just another rebuild of the classics. Thanks to an interesting choice of florals, the heart notes show a multitude of facets and layers giving the perfume a unique character. The apricot note that is already there in the opening where it feels juicy-fruity, keeps on shining even deep into the balsamic drydown.

In social settings this has a somewhat understated appearance, while from up close the intense character is evident. In other words, wears like an absolute charm.

Batch 2023 Bottle 54/104

Floral Veil may be a floral composition in the traditional sense but it still manages to surprise. This not so much a result of amazing quality materials, but due to the clever contrast between two main floral notes throughout the scent's evolution.

The fragrance opens with a well-behaved tuberose covered in citrus and greens. This green-fresh prelude made me expect a daytime scent, business-safe but uplifting, not all too serious. In a matter of minutes, however, the geranium takes over from the tuberose as primary floral note and the mood shifts from daytime to evening wear. The geranium's minty and spicy facets, the fuzzy amber-musky base and bits of that remaining tuberose combined give off a classic 90's dress-up vibe. I suspect a soft patchouli plays a role in this as well. It is not a full-on evening wear, though, as the sillage is medium-low from the start and stays well-restraint.

What I like about this perfume is how it is positioned between daytime and evening wear. Semi-formal with an uplifting spring-fresh side. Creativity in a setting of traditional perfumery is hard to find these days. Floral Veil shows it still exists.

Cio Cio San is a sunny intermezzo with a few influences from the Far East but without the stereotypes. This also shares a few notes with Guerlain's little black dress series. But the Guerlain is left far behind when it comes to quality and level of excitement.

The top notes in Cio Cio San lift the wearer's mood immediately. They open as a fizzy lemonade of cherry, lychee and tangy citrus. It does not take long before a zesty ginger note and some woody tea join in, countering all that fruity freshness. This balance between fruity, woody and fresh is brilliant. Sophisticated without being complicated. Just pure fun!