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The Elder
Coincidentally, I learned about this release in the ticker!
So Interlude 53 is followed by three more well-known fragrances whose concentrations have again been raised significantly: "Epic 56 Woman", "Honour 43 Woman" and "Reflection 45 Man".
These are by the way the official titles of the fragrances. Surprised me that the otherwise prevailing research standards so were not taken up and waved through, but be it - another topic.
Reflection 45. in my review of Interlude 53 I spoke of it being a new concentration and Amouage corresponds with its new Definiton: "Exceptional Extrait". If we keep in mind that the fragrances from the house declared as "EDP" consistently have about 20% - 25% high fraction of fragrance oil, then we are talking either way about "perfume / extract". Here you can really praise Amouage, because they declare lower than they could and but offer higher. In the designer segment, this is yes gladly often lived the other way around.
The "45" in the name stands again for the percentage of fragrance oils in this perfume and probably the maximum amount that could be achieved in the production and is still within certain "Anti Allergens Standards".
For classification Amouage represents the beautiful on its own homepage:
Eau de Cologne (EDC) 3% - 10% oils
Eau de Toilette (EDT) 5% - 15% oils
Eau de Parfum (EDP) 15% - 20% oils
Perfume / Extrait 20% - 30% oils
Amouage Reflection 45 Man - 45% oils
The maturation process of the first batch is 10 weeks of maturation + 6 weeks of maceration, meaning that in total the process was extended to 4 months.
For explanation:
Maturation = maturation of the fragrance concentrate before adding alcohol.
Maceration = maturation of the finished mixture, so after adding alcohol.
Unlike Interlude 53, the DNA has been greatly altered by the addition of some new ingredients on paper. But do not be fooled by this, because anyone who knows the original Reflection will recognize it immediately after spraying.
In comparison, however, interpreted decidedly darker and without a joyful smile.
Especially at the beginning I get lavender and at the same time it is strongly powdery in the perception what I really like!
It is spicier than the original, but still retains its balsamic soft warmth and I can't detect any particularly sweet, resinous or smoky touches that make it stand out aggressively. He carries his original bloom with him and remains very soothing in the further development and quietly fades away little by little.
The gentle embrace of fresh, buttery flowers is no longer as loving as it once was. Nevertheless, I find it a decidedly harmonious and round fragrance.
The increased concentration creates in conjunction with the changed DNA a mature alternative, which is definitely worth testing, but the honest look in the mirror reveals one thing above all:
He's gotten older. This does not make him worse per se, because after 14 years it is natural to evolve. Also with us.
Finally, one last note:
The fragrance becomes incredibly quiet after a relatively short time. I have rarely experienced this and it is too pronounced for my taste. Yes, we are talking about an in the core extract and that usually brings this concentration. That's perfectly fine and especially true for those who may wonder about it after testing. Not every fragrance needs or wants to be a screamer and I'm sure that wasn't a primary goal in making this fragrance, hence the friendly thought provoking not to discredit perfumes and especially him here right away because of it.
I wish you a fragrant pleasure in testing!
So Interlude 53 is followed by three more well-known fragrances whose concentrations have again been raised significantly: "Epic 56 Woman", "Honour 43 Woman" and "Reflection 45 Man".
These are by the way the official titles of the fragrances. Surprised me that the otherwise prevailing research standards so were not taken up and waved through, but be it - another topic.
Reflection 45. in my review of Interlude 53 I spoke of it being a new concentration and Amouage corresponds with its new Definiton: "Exceptional Extrait". If we keep in mind that the fragrances from the house declared as "EDP" consistently have about 20% - 25% high fraction of fragrance oil, then we are talking either way about "perfume / extract". Here you can really praise Amouage, because they declare lower than they could and but offer higher. In the designer segment, this is yes gladly often lived the other way around.
The "45" in the name stands again for the percentage of fragrance oils in this perfume and probably the maximum amount that could be achieved in the production and is still within certain "Anti Allergens Standards".
For classification Amouage represents the beautiful on its own homepage:
Eau de Cologne (EDC) 3% - 10% oils
Eau de Toilette (EDT) 5% - 15% oils
Eau de Parfum (EDP) 15% - 20% oils
Perfume / Extrait 20% - 30% oils
Amouage Reflection 45 Man - 45% oils
The maturation process of the first batch is 10 weeks of maturation + 6 weeks of maceration, meaning that in total the process was extended to 4 months.
For explanation:
Maturation = maturation of the fragrance concentrate before adding alcohol.
Maceration = maturation of the finished mixture, so after adding alcohol.
Unlike Interlude 53, the DNA has been greatly altered by the addition of some new ingredients on paper. But do not be fooled by this, because anyone who knows the original Reflection will recognize it immediately after spraying.
In comparison, however, interpreted decidedly darker and without a joyful smile.
Especially at the beginning I get lavender and at the same time it is strongly powdery in the perception what I really like!
It is spicier than the original, but still retains its balsamic soft warmth and I can't detect any particularly sweet, resinous or smoky touches that make it stand out aggressively. He carries his original bloom with him and remains very soothing in the further development and quietly fades away little by little.
The gentle embrace of fresh, buttery flowers is no longer as loving as it once was. Nevertheless, I find it a decidedly harmonious and round fragrance.
The increased concentration creates in conjunction with the changed DNA a mature alternative, which is definitely worth testing, but the honest look in the mirror reveals one thing above all:
He's gotten older. This does not make him worse per se, because after 14 years it is natural to evolve. Also with us.
Finally, one last note:
The fragrance becomes incredibly quiet after a relatively short time. I have rarely experienced this and it is too pronounced for my taste. Yes, we are talking about an in the core extract and that usually brings this concentration. That's perfectly fine and especially true for those who may wonder about it after testing. Not every fragrance needs or wants to be a screamer and I'm sure that wasn't a primary goal in making this fragrance, hence the friendly thought provoking not to discredit perfumes and especially him here right away because of it.
I wish you a fragrant pleasure in testing!
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Sweet glamour of the 20s
"Roja Dove created this perfume as a tribute to the past and a celebration of what's next. In essence, it is the perfect antidote to the current covid climate."
I'll start my review with this small excerpt from the performance.
The backstory to Manhattan is thought-provoking. It's about how our new decade began very differently than expected and that no matter what the world throws at us, we will recover. Manhattan has been a successful coping mechanism in that regard.
Model for the choice of name is unmistakably the city of Manhattan, which is to transport with your resilience the splendor of the Golden 20s again into today.
When I learned of this release, I was very hooked, because Roja manages like no other to put himself and his perfumes in perfect light. So also here. A strictly limited edition, a story that motivates and its black piano lacquer box, which complements the entire presentation excellent.
Since last Wednesday, the bottle is with me and I have him right Thursday and Friday properly worn in the office and also tested at home several times on the skin. The first statements were manifested and many of you are certainly waiting anxiously for what is behind the new creation.
The profile is presented as follows: "This is a smooth and smoky Tobacco-based Chypré [...]".
Not to worry, we are greeted fresh and within the first few seconds we immediately notice the spicy warm architecture sitting on a chypré foundation. Not particularly floral, but cozy soft, creamy sweet and pleasantly woody with a gentle spiciness. Smoke and tobacco create a deep character that all in all comes across as pleasing. In my first test on the back of my hand, I could not yet properly classify this impression - now I would name two scents in this context, which share certain parallels, but only serve as an orientation:
"Tobacco Vanilla (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford"
"Arabesque | The Merchant Of Venice"
Manhattan does not focus as pronounced on tobacco and vanilla as the Tom Ford shows and reduces some tobacco perception and also the sweet perception is not directly attributable to the vanilla, but rather comes close to the Arabesque and seems almost marmalade here, because the real magic comes from the fact that Roja both a Chypré structure for additional feinherbe and dry nuances untersetzt and thus mixes an exclusive cocktail.
With all admiration and appreciation for Roja, I say explicitly that Manhattan does not set new standards. The fragrance combines known and reinterpreted in its charming way with a result that can be seen. Above all, I see Him in late autumn and winter.
For these stages he is perfectly suited and will sweeten sensual moments truly.
I'll start my review with this small excerpt from the performance.
The backstory to Manhattan is thought-provoking. It's about how our new decade began very differently than expected and that no matter what the world throws at us, we will recover. Manhattan has been a successful coping mechanism in that regard.
Model for the choice of name is unmistakably the city of Manhattan, which is to transport with your resilience the splendor of the Golden 20s again into today.
When I learned of this release, I was very hooked, because Roja manages like no other to put himself and his perfumes in perfect light. So also here. A strictly limited edition, a story that motivates and its black piano lacquer box, which complements the entire presentation excellent.
Since last Wednesday, the bottle is with me and I have him right Thursday and Friday properly worn in the office and also tested at home several times on the skin. The first statements were manifested and many of you are certainly waiting anxiously for what is behind the new creation.
The profile is presented as follows: "This is a smooth and smoky Tobacco-based Chypré [...]".
Not to worry, we are greeted fresh and within the first few seconds we immediately notice the spicy warm architecture sitting on a chypré foundation. Not particularly floral, but cozy soft, creamy sweet and pleasantly woody with a gentle spiciness. Smoke and tobacco create a deep character that all in all comes across as pleasing. In my first test on the back of my hand, I could not yet properly classify this impression - now I would name two scents in this context, which share certain parallels, but only serve as an orientation:
"Tobacco Vanilla (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford"
"Arabesque | The Merchant Of Venice"
Manhattan does not focus as pronounced on tobacco and vanilla as the Tom Ford shows and reduces some tobacco perception and also the sweet perception is not directly attributable to the vanilla, but rather comes close to the Arabesque and seems almost marmalade here, because the real magic comes from the fact that Roja both a Chypré structure for additional feinherbe and dry nuances untersetzt and thus mixes an exclusive cocktail.
With all admiration and appreciation for Roja, I say explicitly that Manhattan does not set new standards. The fragrance combines known and reinterpreted in its charming way with a result that can be seen. Above all, I see Him in late autumn and winter.
For these stages he is perfectly suited and will sweeten sensual moments truly.
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Chaste lover
It's Sunday. Rest day. The sun is shining and good 0 degrees seem almost warming after the past days.
In all peace of mind I give myself on my couch to a new olfactory discovery and would like to share with you.
Not merely a new scent, but also a new house on my journey through this world that makes my Sunday so much sweeter.
About a well-known Fragrance YouTuber I came across this still quite virgin brand and was at the same time impressed by the artistic design of the bottles. Only 6 fragrances includes the portfolio plus a Discovery Set.
The olfactory project AGATHO PARFUM is dedicated to a contemporary interpretation of ointments created by master perfumer Agatho in ancient Pompeii. Natural and high quality materials are sealed with handmade and hand-painted porcelain lids in wonderful flacons.
Let's dedicate ourselves to our fragrance:
We begin with a concise spicy start. Saffron and myrtle ostensibly. Subconsciously, I had to think briefly of Portrait of a Lady at the very first test, but then it is not so spicy - a distant relative perhaps.
As soon as the spray a few seconds on the skin, we notice a dense but soft presence, which is noticeably different from many other eau de parfum concentrations and thus already draws a coherent picture regarding the underlying history of the house.
In the heart, in addition to the rose, we encounter in particular a clear, viscous and sweet honey, which - well dosed - resolutely dominates the heart, but does not displace the floral accent. A gentle combination that captivates with pleasure. And in the distance, we can detect the first wisps of incense.
Hidden deep in this creation we find vanilla, which subliminally sweet supports the honey and warming musk. Oud and amber are listed, but only create substance. Who has a hard time with oud, can therefore breathe a sigh of relief.
In my perception, overall a spicy gentle rose with radiant sweet honey and vanilla and volatile smoke.
Overall, no game-changer and yet wonderfully implemented.
Although rose oud compositions are often demonized as olfactory brown bread, CASTIAMANTI manages to serve up the perfect spread to go with it.
Thank you very much!
In all peace of mind I give myself on my couch to a new olfactory discovery and would like to share with you.
Not merely a new scent, but also a new house on my journey through this world that makes my Sunday so much sweeter.
About a well-known Fragrance YouTuber I came across this still quite virgin brand and was at the same time impressed by the artistic design of the bottles. Only 6 fragrances includes the portfolio plus a Discovery Set.
The olfactory project AGATHO PARFUM is dedicated to a contemporary interpretation of ointments created by master perfumer Agatho in ancient Pompeii. Natural and high quality materials are sealed with handmade and hand-painted porcelain lids in wonderful flacons.
Let's dedicate ourselves to our fragrance:
We begin with a concise spicy start. Saffron and myrtle ostensibly. Subconsciously, I had to think briefly of Portrait of a Lady at the very first test, but then it is not so spicy - a distant relative perhaps.
As soon as the spray a few seconds on the skin, we notice a dense but soft presence, which is noticeably different from many other eau de parfum concentrations and thus already draws a coherent picture regarding the underlying history of the house.
In the heart, in addition to the rose, we encounter in particular a clear, viscous and sweet honey, which - well dosed - resolutely dominates the heart, but does not displace the floral accent. A gentle combination that captivates with pleasure. And in the distance, we can detect the first wisps of incense.
Hidden deep in this creation we find vanilla, which subliminally sweet supports the honey and warming musk. Oud and amber are listed, but only create substance. Who has a hard time with oud, can therefore breathe a sigh of relief.
In my perception, overall a spicy gentle rose with radiant sweet honey and vanilla and volatile smoke.
Overall, no game-changer and yet wonderfully implemented.
Although rose oud compositions are often demonized as olfactory brown bread, CASTIAMANTI manages to serve up the perfect spread to go with it.
Thank you very much!
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Harmony inspired by chaos
After months I seize very gladly again the opportunity and report back to the latest release from the house Amouage: Interlude 53.
Now the first officially declared Extrait de Parfum gets in and of all things Interlude is the chosen one. So we are not talking about a flanker, but a new fragrance concentration.
What does the "53" stand for?
This represents the percentage of fragrance oils in this perfume.
And why "53" and not "50" or "56"?
That is the maximum amount that could be achieved in the manufacturing process and still be within certain "Anti Allergens Standards".
In addition, the maturation processes Maturation and maceration "played" and the entire process ultimately extended to about 6 months. Most fragrances probably mature only a few weeks.
Maturation is the maturation of the fragrance concentrate prior to the addition of alcohol.
Maceration is the maturation of the finished blend, i.e. after alcohol has been added.
The Interlude DNA is still unchanged and immediately after spraying we experience a very loud aromatic hit of spices - decidedly strong and intense!
Oregano and allspice create a fabulous beginning. First smoky puffs are also noticeable and in the midst of this explosion I can also detect a tangy, hesperidic freshness. In the further development we dive into the warm and deep soul - balsamic and resinous impressions join and also the smoke has already fully spread.
Woody-earthy notes complement this strong oriental image.
What harmonious chaos!
The increased concentration enhances this spectacle and seems at the same time rounder and more accomplished. Nevertheless, the differences are difficult to identify even for experienced noses.
Interlude 53 is in my eyes a successful experiment and as an Amouage / Interlude lover, it is definitely worth a test - a bottle, however, not if you already own an Interlude.
I wish you a happy and healthy new year 2021!
Now the first officially declared Extrait de Parfum gets in and of all things Interlude is the chosen one. So we are not talking about a flanker, but a new fragrance concentration.
What does the "53" stand for?
This represents the percentage of fragrance oils in this perfume.
And why "53" and not "50" or "56"?
That is the maximum amount that could be achieved in the manufacturing process and still be within certain "Anti Allergens Standards".
In addition, the maturation processes Maturation and maceration "played" and the entire process ultimately extended to about 6 months. Most fragrances probably mature only a few weeks.
Maturation is the maturation of the fragrance concentrate prior to the addition of alcohol.
Maceration is the maturation of the finished blend, i.e. after alcohol has been added.
The Interlude DNA is still unchanged and immediately after spraying we experience a very loud aromatic hit of spices - decidedly strong and intense!
Oregano and allspice create a fabulous beginning. First smoky puffs are also noticeable and in the midst of this explosion I can also detect a tangy, hesperidic freshness. In the further development we dive into the warm and deep soul - balsamic and resinous impressions join and also the smoke has already fully spread.
Woody-earthy notes complement this strong oriental image.
What harmonious chaos!
The increased concentration enhances this spectacle and seems at the same time rounder and more accomplished. Nevertheless, the differences are difficult to identify even for experienced noses.
Interlude 53 is in my eyes a successful experiment and as an Amouage / Interlude lover, it is definitely worth a test - a bottle, however, not if you already own an Interlude.
I wish you a happy and healthy new year 2021!
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The Beauty
Who is this beauty I already mentioned in my premiere commentary "Interlude Black Iris Man"?
Well, he's nothing less than a feeling to me. A positive aura with which I can surround myself from now on
I still remember our first encounter at the beginning of my fragrance journey - a whole new world of secret treasures was revealed to me that wanted to be recovered and in the middle of a huge sea of perfume houses stood this inconspicuous but glittering trophy. You have to know that the house and the fragrance name itself was already familiar to me at this time, as I had seen or read several videos and reviews beforehand and had also gradually found my way into the foyer of Parfumo. With these online impressions in my luggage, I set out to finally test the fragrance live, which on the one hand is perceived as so sweet and on the other hand is condemned by other "alternative individuals" as a cheap sweet mixture... back to our meeting.
ACT I: Can it really be love?
With the bottle in one hand and the test strip in the other (unfortunately tested on paper at first at that time) and full of anticipation and high expectations, I pressed and pressed the spray head. The first seconds passed and promptly I asked myself the question "How can this smell so nice and pleasant?! Before my mind's eye I fell gently backwards into this flowery and airy light cloud and found myself floating in the seventh heaven. Just in this moment I did not know which ingredients were hidden behind this composition, but I knew that this scent, this feeling must not vanish and that I wanted more. It had happened around me and should ignite my until today "eternal flame"
ACT II: The beautiful Reflection Man
Soon after we met, we were united and you were at my side. Such a beautiful and graceful fragrance was a completely new experience - in a positive sense, because it does not convince with unbelievably interwoven ingredients, but with its simple and lovely nature. Spices + bitter orange leaf according to the top note, but I don't take it so spicy at the beginning. Rather it is a bright and light smile where for a short moment fruity teeth flash. Freshly sprayed on, it already reveals how honest and sweet this fragrance is inside. A quartet par excellence!
Fresh, butter-soft flowers gently embrace me and I look into a warm and clean smile that is also sweet - great balanced.
At the end I am surrounded by a heavenly veil, which loses some of its freshness in the drydown - logical - but creates wonderful substance with deep tones. I can still perceive vetiver the best and the sandalwood does what it does best and rounds off harmoniously.
ACT III: My Eternal Flame
As mentioned at the beginning, Reflection reflects a feeling for me and not "just" a flowery scent.
Such a beautiful and positive feeling that I experience after the application and feel shortly before. An aura that not only brings a smile to my face and yours, but also to those around you. Until recently, Reflection was my only fragrance with the scent 9/10 (I currently have two fragrances) for the simple reason that no other fragrance gives me this special and familiar feeling. My eternal flame I burn for!
CONCLUSION:
In the meantime, I have been able to test many more fragrances and yes, there are many candidates who present much more extensive, but what do you expect from Reflection? The name is as apt as the expectation that comes with it. When you look in the mirror, you see yourself and nothing else - exactly what you expect when you devote yourself to the content. One thing it is definitely not - boring. He offers you much with little and that is exactly what he wants. MY recommendation you have! At least persuade yourself to take a test, if you haven't had the pleasure yet. He is worth it. From the performance point of view I like him very much. You can expect safe for about 6 - 8 hours, depending on how generously you order for longer (I have one from the UK and can't complain about lack of performance). Furthermore it shines bright and shining! Probably perfect for spring, but also a smart option in autumn and winter! Midsummer is personally reluctant to me and I would like to be taught a better one.
FOR WHAT STEAM DOES YOU BURN??
Thank you very much and I am looking forward to your feedback! LG, Lucas
Well, he's nothing less than a feeling to me. A positive aura with which I can surround myself from now on
I still remember our first encounter at the beginning of my fragrance journey - a whole new world of secret treasures was revealed to me that wanted to be recovered and in the middle of a huge sea of perfume houses stood this inconspicuous but glittering trophy. You have to know that the house and the fragrance name itself was already familiar to me at this time, as I had seen or read several videos and reviews beforehand and had also gradually found my way into the foyer of Parfumo. With these online impressions in my luggage, I set out to finally test the fragrance live, which on the one hand is perceived as so sweet and on the other hand is condemned by other "alternative individuals" as a cheap sweet mixture... back to our meeting.
ACT I: Can it really be love?
With the bottle in one hand and the test strip in the other (unfortunately tested on paper at first at that time) and full of anticipation and high expectations, I pressed and pressed the spray head. The first seconds passed and promptly I asked myself the question "How can this smell so nice and pleasant?! Before my mind's eye I fell gently backwards into this flowery and airy light cloud and found myself floating in the seventh heaven. Just in this moment I did not know which ingredients were hidden behind this composition, but I knew that this scent, this feeling must not vanish and that I wanted more. It had happened around me and should ignite my until today "eternal flame"
ACT II: The beautiful Reflection Man
Soon after we met, we were united and you were at my side. Such a beautiful and graceful fragrance was a completely new experience - in a positive sense, because it does not convince with unbelievably interwoven ingredients, but with its simple and lovely nature. Spices + bitter orange leaf according to the top note, but I don't take it so spicy at the beginning. Rather it is a bright and light smile where for a short moment fruity teeth flash. Freshly sprayed on, it already reveals how honest and sweet this fragrance is inside. A quartet par excellence!
Fresh, butter-soft flowers gently embrace me and I look into a warm and clean smile that is also sweet - great balanced.
At the end I am surrounded by a heavenly veil, which loses some of its freshness in the drydown - logical - but creates wonderful substance with deep tones. I can still perceive vetiver the best and the sandalwood does what it does best and rounds off harmoniously.
ACT III: My Eternal Flame
As mentioned at the beginning, Reflection reflects a feeling for me and not "just" a flowery scent.
Such a beautiful and positive feeling that I experience after the application and feel shortly before. An aura that not only brings a smile to my face and yours, but also to those around you. Until recently, Reflection was my only fragrance with the scent 9/10 (I currently have two fragrances) for the simple reason that no other fragrance gives me this special and familiar feeling. My eternal flame I burn for!
CONCLUSION:
In the meantime, I have been able to test many more fragrances and yes, there are many candidates who present much more extensive, but what do you expect from Reflection? The name is as apt as the expectation that comes with it. When you look in the mirror, you see yourself and nothing else - exactly what you expect when you devote yourself to the content. One thing it is definitely not - boring. He offers you much with little and that is exactly what he wants. MY recommendation you have! At least persuade yourself to take a test, if you haven't had the pleasure yet. He is worth it. From the performance point of view I like him very much. You can expect safe for about 6 - 8 hours, depending on how generously you order for longer (I have one from the UK and can't complain about lack of performance). Furthermore it shines bright and shining! Probably perfect for spring, but also a smart option in autumn and winter! Midsummer is personally reluctant to me and I would like to be taught a better one.
FOR WHAT STEAM DOES YOU BURN??
Thank you very much and I am looking forward to your feedback! LG, Lucas
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