LessthanzeroLessthanzero's Perfume Reviews

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Lessthanzero 2 months ago 1
10
Bottle
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
elevated, musky gourmand
I had a sample of this laying around and decided to put it on after my shower today. I just went and ran errands and I felt *blushes* so pretty!

This is a very light, bright, almost dainty perfume. It is sort of chai tea, sort of carrot cake, but doesn't wear like a typical gourmand. Powdery but not old lady. A little herbal sum' sumthin' lies underneath.

Oh and it projects like hell! I was walking around in a constant cloud of Lost Alice for hours, and standing three feet away from people because I was worried I would choke them out. I believe the ambrette is the culprit, as I am particularly sensitive to musks - in the best way!

Love this but not convinced it is masculine enough for me to have on the shelf - even as a man who loves women's fragrances.
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Lessthanzero 2 months ago 1
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
7
Longevity
10
Scent
Needlessly poetic review
The year is 1919. The setting is London; a members only club. There is a gymnasium. The ceiling of the cavernous room is double height, and bright white light pours in from clerestory windows. The walls are plaster, the floors oak, and here and there are rudimentary fitness tools and machines, all cast iron.

An athlete sits on a bench facing a pommel horse, its leather worn and patinated with sweat. The athlete wears a white cotton vest tucked into white cotton pants. The athlete wraps his hands with linen bandages. He is tired from training, and sweat drips from his brow on to the dusty floor.

His coach, smelling of fresh pipe smoke, approaches from the side. He reaches out and smears the athlete’s neck and shoulders with a greasy salve. The athlete’s head drops forward as the room fills with the smell of hot, icy camphor from Siam.
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Lessthanzero 2 months ago 6
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
6.5
Scent
Boring Noir
I'm a man, and I love many of Narcriso Rodriguez's scents for women. Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT (created by Francis Kurkdjian [!] AND Christine Nagel [!!] ) is a bonafide masterpiece, and many others in the women's collection are simultaneously well-crafted, unusual, sexy, and crowd-pleasing.

I keep buying men's fragrances from NR, hoping to like one. With Bleu Noir Parfum I am, once again, disappointed.

Bleu Noir Parfum is a let down because it SHOULD be where this house shines: A gender-bending, understated but sexy take on a well known perfume genre (in this case, the recent "iris for men" trend). It fails to achieve any of that, and is instead mediocre, very butch, very sweet, and very linear.

Other notes:

- Has very little to do with the original Bleu Noir (which I liked but found too masculine for myself)

- Contrary to hype, it is not even faintly reminiscent of Dior Homme Intense

- Performance is good, as expected from NR

- Anyone else annoyed that across designer perfumery, "parfum" has no technical meaning? There is no noticeable difference in quality, projection, or longevity between the various Bleu Noirs (EDT, EDP, Extreme(?), and Parfum.) It would be nice if these words actually referred to concentration.

- To the marketers at Narciso/ Shiseido: We've had enough Bleu Noir flankers. The world is ready for a new, daring Narciso Rodriguez for Men.

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Lessthanzero 2 months ago 1
White Noise
I am retracting my initial lukewarm statement - though it does still bother my nose sometimes.

Elie Saab No. 6 - Vetiver

Clever
Shimmering
Unisex

Wear:
Linear - very little change from top to dry-down
Tart/acidic citrus
Fizzy purple flowers
A very bright, almost feminine vetiver
Accented by clove (brilliant!) for depth

This is like white noise: static vibrating at all frequencies of audible sound. The hiss of a radiator, the crackle of a vinyl record. The fragrance sparkles in the air, not like a mist, but like an electric charge. It is a high-pitched frequency buzzing indeterminately overhead.

Even better sprayed on clothes.
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Lessthanzero 2 months ago 1
2006 Forever
This fragrance was released in 2006, and I remember vividly how enchanted I was with the smell of this fragrance which, as a small town boy, I only encountered via samples in glossy magazines. The beautiful ads featuring Eddie Klint certainly didn't hurt either.

I recently bought a 10ML sample of Prada Amber based solely on these memories from my adolescence. It is a fine, even a lovely scent. Very modern for its time, and does not smell dated in 2022. I don't know why, but I was not expecting it to be SO amber-y on the dry-down. But the top is all soap and clean neroli powder.

I want to point out that 2006 was an absolute blockbuster year for men's designer fragrances. That year (I was 16 years old), saw the release of:

Prada's "Prada Amber Pour Homme"
Yves Saint Laurent's "L'Homme"
Hermes' "Terre D' Hermes"

I'd argue that these three fragrances, all still in production, were all genre-defying scents that changed (for the better) the trajectory of men's fragrances.

(I'd also like to give honorable mention to Lanvin's 2005 "Arpege Pour Homme" - a close cousin of Prada Amber, but with an iris note. Arpege Pour Homme is sadly discontinued, and the legendary Alber Elbaz, the erstwhile creative director during Lanvin's early oughts Golden Age, tragically passed away from COVID in 2021.)
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