Lgsoltek

An uplifting perfume. Luminous, joyous, easygoing. A chocolate-like opening brings instant smile. A wine-like quality weaves throughout the entire journey, convivial but never drunk. The composition may be complex but the final effect is one of simplicity and transparency. It continues the evolution of the brand since Le Cri de la Lumière towards a style of luminosity and cheerfulness. Parfum d’Empire has found its own style, and stopped following the footsteps of Serge Lutens (Ambre Russe/Ambre Sultan, Aziyade/Arabie, Cuir Ottoman/Cuir Mauresque, Musc Tonkin/Musc Kublaï Khan, Wazamba/Fille en Aiguille…).

I'm very happy to own the very first and signed bottle of Tubéreuse Organique that came out of their lab. It’s exactly like their description. This is a fresh dewy tuberose. It doesn’t smell of Fracas, it doesn’t have that carnal fleshiness of tuberose absolute because it doesn’t contain any. By a magical sleight of hand these different non-tuberose materials (many of them certified organic) combine to smell wonderfully of both the blooming petals and the green stems and leaves. There's also a dusty mentholated aspect that is slightly reminiscent of Tauer's Sotto la Luna Tuberose. In the drydown a green sap smell somewhat reminds me of a certain aspect of their Fig My Love (itself an amazing realistic full package of fig leaves, stems and fruit).

One spritz on the blotter is enough to make my whole room smell like a tuberose farm. Wearing it on myself I am a walking field in full bloom.

A misleading name. I was dismissive of this one at the beginning, but now I have come to appreciate it more, if I disregard the name. I still think it has nothing to do with narcissus. Where’s that hay-like barnyard-ish vegetal medicinal green smell of narcissus? Worth Je Reviens, Parfum d'Empire Tabou Tabac, Nicolaï Le Temps d'une Fête, The Zoo Everlasting, these are all great examples of the use of narcissus absolute in perfumes, with such a characteristic smell of this amazing ingredient.

Real narcissus absolute (from Laboratoire Monique Rémy) is probably too expensive for the budget L'Artisan Parfumeur has given Anne Flipo. So this one is just not it. Instead Anne Flipo made a sketch of certain aspects of narcissus: dry, spicy, leathery. But without the distinctive hay-like medicinal smell of the real deal. The end result is a smoky musky suede very much reminiscent of Hermès’ Cuir d’Ange. It smells nice. I do like it, but I feel I've been cheated by the name.