LiliumLibido
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LiliumLibido
From the heart
Nothing dark nor brooding, for me, in this one. It opens up bright and fresh, unfolds with jasmine resting on a blue cedar background, and dries down to a warm amber surrounded with musk.
Not all that groundbreaking, but very well executed.
Here's the thing that never fails to puzzle me, with Trouble, though: On my skin, the drydown takes forever. We're taking a good 10 to 12 hours kinda forever, here, lol. It takes that long for the amber to fully develop.
But when it does...
It takes the jasmine on an unforgettable magic carpet ride!
This is a heady floral oriental that manages to encompass sexiness and comfort in one hazy and mysterious embrace, edged with subtle smokiness, but without ever losing its inital freshness.
One thing to keep in mind: That slight startling element in the top, the one that makes you stop and take a second whiff? That's from the digitalis, lol. You read well: used as a common heart medicine in the 20th century, derived from the Foxglove plant, this is part of the top notes.
Trouble was created to get a physical response in people. In my experience, it does. And it's always a favorable one.
Not all that groundbreaking, but very well executed.
Here's the thing that never fails to puzzle me, with Trouble, though: On my skin, the drydown takes forever. We're taking a good 10 to 12 hours kinda forever, here, lol. It takes that long for the amber to fully develop.
But when it does...
It takes the jasmine on an unforgettable magic carpet ride!
This is a heady floral oriental that manages to encompass sexiness and comfort in one hazy and mysterious embrace, edged with subtle smokiness, but without ever losing its inital freshness.
One thing to keep in mind: That slight startling element in the top, the one that makes you stop and take a second whiff? That's from the digitalis, lol. You read well: used as a common heart medicine in the 20th century, derived from the Foxglove plant, this is part of the top notes.
Trouble was created to get a physical response in people. In my experience, it does. And it's always a favorable one.
1 Comment
Vintage or nothing
There are actually over 300 floral essences in the original Quelques Fleurs, which means that Houbigant had a sense of humor when they named the fragrance "Some Fowers".
This is outdoors in the springtime, complete with the early sun barely touching the dew and warming fields and fields of flowers. Stand in the fields, down wind, face the sun and breathe deep: this is the smell of Quelques Fleurs, in the beginning.
On skin, however, this early 20th century masterpiece warms and expands, the musk and the civet play up your natural skin scent to provide the perfect anchor for oakmoss and sandalwood: The resulting scent is a deeply personal floral composition, one that will never be the same from person to person, typical of how the great classic perfumes used to be crafted.
There is a bit of woodsy greenery throughout, which allows the fragrance to retain its initial freshness throughout, carried through from top to base with a handful of subtle spices. Absolutely beautiful.
You will also find a hint of fleshy saltiness, evocative of sweaty skin, which would be the case if you'd been running through the fields of flowers on a sunny day... Or it could have more, um, private reasons for being so, the impression all about how all those notes will react on your skin.
I cannot stomach the reformulated stuff, though: it has a burnt edge to it that I find very unpleasant. If you find the vintage, don't pass up the chance to try it. Even floral haters have been seduced by this one.
This is outdoors in the springtime, complete with the early sun barely touching the dew and warming fields and fields of flowers. Stand in the fields, down wind, face the sun and breathe deep: this is the smell of Quelques Fleurs, in the beginning.
On skin, however, this early 20th century masterpiece warms and expands, the musk and the civet play up your natural skin scent to provide the perfect anchor for oakmoss and sandalwood: The resulting scent is a deeply personal floral composition, one that will never be the same from person to person, typical of how the great classic perfumes used to be crafted.
There is a bit of woodsy greenery throughout, which allows the fragrance to retain its initial freshness throughout, carried through from top to base with a handful of subtle spices. Absolutely beautiful.
You will also find a hint of fleshy saltiness, evocative of sweaty skin, which would be the case if you'd been running through the fields of flowers on a sunny day... Or it could have more, um, private reasons for being so, the impression all about how all those notes will react on your skin.
I cannot stomach the reformulated stuff, though: it has a burnt edge to it that I find very unpleasant. If you find the vintage, don't pass up the chance to try it. Even floral haters have been seduced by this one.
Tuberose Indiana's younger, more personable sister
.. Even if the fragrance was actually created earlier in time, lol.
Much like T.I, this one also explodes with many more notes that are not listed, but unlike Sherapop, I do not find much of a connection with Cabotine, which is a good thing because for me Cabotine is like Cryptonite, lol. (but I am reviewing the original, not the reformulation. I actually have no idea what the reformulation smells like)
A huge, effusive, dramatic floral, FdF has added musk and loads of it. In tandem with the ambregris, it creates "naked" feel, as in nude skin, upclose and personal. The fragrance will take you through a myriad of visuals from a sumptuous flower garden to the beautiful naked lady walking through the garden, to the rush on her skin upon noticing her lover walking through the gate of the garden. This perfume is a fantastic mix of Victorian restraint and hormonal unleashing, lol.
I prefer Fantasia to Indiana because I find it more intimately sensual, though that may be purely a question of personal chemistry. This one also transfers easily and sticks to everything like crazy glue: I have this one jacket that has been cleaned several times over the years yet still bears traces of Fantasia.
With all its "proper" and "ladylike" floral opening, Fantasia really is, in my opinion, quite the player: her drydown is just short of raunchy, thanks in part to the indolic flowers that keep mingling with the musk and the ambregris. It's a slightly powdery veil that touches everything and lingers for ages, raising enough questions and leaving enough memories to torment the staunchest cold fish in the room.
Much like T.I, this one also explodes with many more notes that are not listed, but unlike Sherapop, I do not find much of a connection with Cabotine, which is a good thing because for me Cabotine is like Cryptonite, lol. (but I am reviewing the original, not the reformulation. I actually have no idea what the reformulation smells like)
A huge, effusive, dramatic floral, FdF has added musk and loads of it. In tandem with the ambregris, it creates "naked" feel, as in nude skin, upclose and personal. The fragrance will take you through a myriad of visuals from a sumptuous flower garden to the beautiful naked lady walking through the garden, to the rush on her skin upon noticing her lover walking through the gate of the garden. This perfume is a fantastic mix of Victorian restraint and hormonal unleashing, lol.
I prefer Fantasia to Indiana because I find it more intimately sensual, though that may be purely a question of personal chemistry. This one also transfers easily and sticks to everything like crazy glue: I have this one jacket that has been cleaned several times over the years yet still bears traces of Fantasia.
With all its "proper" and "ladylike" floral opening, Fantasia really is, in my opinion, quite the player: her drydown is just short of raunchy, thanks in part to the indolic flowers that keep mingling with the musk and the ambregris. It's a slightly powdery veil that touches everything and lingers for ages, raising enough questions and leaving enough memories to torment the staunchest cold fish in the room.
Fit for royalty
I agree with Sherapop, the least noticeable flower in this blend is indeed the tuberose, lol. Creed used to list more notes, for this fragrance, there is also ylang, neroli, iris, rose, gardenia and jasmine, I don't know why they no longer list those. Also ommited from the list is amber, which is very different from Ambregris, both play an important role in this composition.
Actually many Creed scents are similar in the notes used, just in different amounts, and the variations yield perfumes that are very different from each other, albeit with a common theme.
T.I is an rich, expansive scent, a grand entrance maker with an unforgettable exit style. It transfers very easily and winds up everywhere: on clothing, upholstery, in hair... It's the fragrance of a woman who likes to be obvious about leaving her trace, but in grand style: this woman will never be mistaken for lower class.
She will use her fragrance to mark her territory, to intimidate even, but primarily to seduce: With an armfull of heady flowers, a sprinkling of spices, and a rich, substancial base, she will turn heads and stop conversations in her wake.
The perfume is not really sweet, but it is a wealth of beautiful notes that keep moving like clouds across the sky, twirling around and teasing the senses with the imposing will of one who means to get her way... and always does.
The lasting power is off the charts, and if you are lucky enough to have a bottle from before 2010 (when the IFRA disfigured the perfume industry), you are holding a perfume with a high concentration of top quality Ambregris and repeated washings will not remove it from fabrics.
And that's exactly how the seductress in you likes it. *smile*
Actually many Creed scents are similar in the notes used, just in different amounts, and the variations yield perfumes that are very different from each other, albeit with a common theme.
T.I is an rich, expansive scent, a grand entrance maker with an unforgettable exit style. It transfers very easily and winds up everywhere: on clothing, upholstery, in hair... It's the fragrance of a woman who likes to be obvious about leaving her trace, but in grand style: this woman will never be mistaken for lower class.
She will use her fragrance to mark her territory, to intimidate even, but primarily to seduce: With an armfull of heady flowers, a sprinkling of spices, and a rich, substancial base, she will turn heads and stop conversations in her wake.
The perfume is not really sweet, but it is a wealth of beautiful notes that keep moving like clouds across the sky, twirling around and teasing the senses with the imposing will of one who means to get her way... and always does.
The lasting power is off the charts, and if you are lucky enough to have a bottle from before 2010 (when the IFRA disfigured the perfume industry), you are holding a perfume with a high concentration of top quality Ambregris and repeated washings will not remove it from fabrics.
And that's exactly how the seductress in you likes it. *smile*
Solitude
Reviewing the reformulation, which, bizarrely enough, I prefer to the vintage. Go figure, lol.
This is my private time/don't come close/stay away/leave me the hell alone scent. Not in an angry, hostile manner, but for when I feel introspective and have the need to be by myself.
I love the peach note, it's not sweet, it's a little on the fuzzy side, it adds roundness to the floral notes, giving the fragrance a juiciness that is world aparts from all those dreaded teeny bopper fruity floral frags, it just keeps the nose wanting to get closer to the skin.
Quite the base heavy perfume, Mitsouko relies on Ambregris to wrap up its full pyramid, and while the other notes are all in evidence and all playing a distinct role, Mitsouko simply wouldn't be Mitsouko without the Ambregris.
The general impression is one of contemplative quiet amidst an avalanche of private thoughts, it is rich and opulent but solitary and restrained, warms up to deeply sensual but never in any ostentatious manner, in fact, Mitsouko is all about quiet sophistication and fiercely guarded privacy.
This is my private time/don't come close/stay away/leave me the hell alone scent. Not in an angry, hostile manner, but for when I feel introspective and have the need to be by myself.
I love the peach note, it's not sweet, it's a little on the fuzzy side, it adds roundness to the floral notes, giving the fragrance a juiciness that is world aparts from all those dreaded teeny bopper fruity floral frags, it just keeps the nose wanting to get closer to the skin.
Quite the base heavy perfume, Mitsouko relies on Ambregris to wrap up its full pyramid, and while the other notes are all in evidence and all playing a distinct role, Mitsouko simply wouldn't be Mitsouko without the Ambregris.
The general impression is one of contemplative quiet amidst an avalanche of private thoughts, it is rich and opulent but solitary and restrained, warms up to deeply sensual but never in any ostentatious manner, in fact, Mitsouko is all about quiet sophistication and fiercely guarded privacy.
