MRoth

This is not your typical amber comfort scent.
The frankincense note and fixatives used are identical to the ones featured in Habanita and, combined with a rough blast of ill-fitting top notes, Molinard's Ambre threatens to venture into headache-inducing territory. Thankfully the composition begins to smooth out around the half hour mark, though even then the overall impact is soapy and almost medicinal.

I have to admit some disappointment; while Molinard's Ambre is far from unpleasant, it's not at all what I anticipated considering its name and note structure. Molinard has chosen a particularly cool, almost austere blend of resins while simultaneously scaling down the vanilla aspect. This gives the smoky incense free rein to overwhelm the vanilla note entirely, leaving proportions so uneven that the amber accord itself is lost. A jumble of modifiers during the heart adds to the dissonance. It's only when the base notes are left completely on their own that the scent comes into its own... but it's too little, too late.

Judging Molinard's Ambre alongside other ambers I find it sorely lacking. Perhaps its faults would be more forgiveable if the fragrance was honest in its attempt to be something else, or if there were not so many more fulfilling ambers available?

A vaguely medicinal oud and thyme that at first spritz could almost be twin to M7 Oud Absolu, but this impression is fleeting. Almost immediately Arabian Nights begins to display all the beloved characters of a Cambodian style oud; woodsy, rich dark earth with an after taste of ripe stone fruit. This is a full-bodied, mouth-filling note that is tamed to recline, exotic yet refined, on a bed of honey-yellow satin. This warm, gold heart is an almost chocolate-gourmand accord based on musk and amber but with a coy spiced edge that is familiar via Bvlgari's original Omnia.
Sweet pale woods feature. Saffron adds a dimension of bitterness, yet the bitterness ends almost immediately upon inhalation, blended well into the smooth sandalwood which lingers longer in the nose. Likewise the rose here is en passant only, I would not call Arabian Nights a rose oud at all. Towards the end a nutty note develops, almost that of salted peanuts and caramel popcorn.

I wanted to love this perfume. I coveted it for quite some time, anticipating its dominance in my collection. Indeed the scent is amazing, its longevity commendable. Even the bottle is gorgeous; a polished black monolith, the cap fitting on with satisfying weight.

Unfortunately on me sillage is weak, weak, weak. I just can't qualify spending three digits for juice that fades to a skin-scent within an hour. Others seem quite confident in its power and aura so this seems to be a problem with my lower than average temperature and dry skin. If you're a fellow admirer of Arabian Nights, I hope she is faithful to you.
Don't let her break your heart like she has mine.

A traditional composition presented with a transparent, modern twist, the amber here is a pleasant surprise in that the prime note of the accord is smooth opopanax instead of the often rougher benzoin. Another eye-opener is a bright, honeyed citrus closer in character to satsuma than the listed mandarin. This sunny sweetness would overcome the entire composition if not for being perfectly balanced and complimented by creamy, quality vanille. This harmonious duet is a core feature from first spray into drydown, only surrendering the stage well into the mellow plush of base notes. Sandalwood, ever the mediator, is appreciated only for how it tames and anchors. The frankincense is pale, pure grade resin burning cleanly.
Overall, a superbly blended and original execution of a popular accord.

Intimately for Women employs what can only be an illegal amount of tuberose. Combined with enough vanilla, tea rose and musk to make Dolores Umbridge queasy, the result is a noxiously floral soporific. Milky lily and lotus further encourage the tuberose to a point where the projection is so dense I'm amazed it's not detectable by sight. If I were to indulge in a little alliteration, I'd call Intimately a cloyingly creamy concoction, a colossal cotton-candy cloud contrivance, a concentrate capable of causing confusion and/or cardiac calamity if carelessly consumed.

That said, if you love tuberose and don't mind lulling those around you into a saccharine stupor, this reasonably priced block of glass contains a love potion worthy of a young, impetuous Aphrodite... complete with cartoon love-hearts popping overhead.

Traditional Turkish delight.
Candied violets.
Lavender honey.
Pink musk sticks.
All bonbons worthy of Antoinette's Versailles, yet taken together, far too sugary to bear!
After balancing the sweetness with incense and remarkably modest patchouli, book-pressed iris is added and then all is dusted in powdery aldehydes. Presented in an ultra-feminine flacon, this is the mysterious, mythical John Galliano Eau de Parfum - but take care, are there has been a reformulation: the original is by Selective Beauty, available in 60ml and 90ml. If your bottle is by Perfume Holding, it is the newer version and your mileage may vary.