Metalfan

Metalfan

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Metalfan 4 years ago 10 8
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Par Amour pour Lui? Who the Fuck is Lui?
While rummaging around for a tobacco scent I came across Profumo's commentary on "Par Amour pour Lui". He professionally put this wonderful scent into words almost a year ago and really got me hooked. Although he has already written everything important about the scent, I would like to add my mustard to it. Why? Because he has forgotten something. He didn't tell us who Lui is!

Tobacco, hay and leather are clearly in the foreground with him. In the trio it sounds a bit like the "cowboy in the prairie" to me and I actually feel the same way about Lui. Not a loud, trigger-happy cowboy, but one you better take seriously and respect. But Lui is also a gentleman of the old school, who holds the door open for the ladies and takes off his hat.
But there are two things missing to a perfect cowboy cliché - horse and whisky.
Anyway, for me, Lui is a real cowboy, with or without a horse. And we'll talk about the whisky later. But let's start at the beginning.

Imagine the most natural leather you have ever smelled and double the intensity. Can you do that? Then you'll know roughly what to expect at the start of "Par Amour pour Lui". I suspect that different leather notes were used for the scent, which, in relation to my "Cowboy Lui brainchild", appear as boots, pistol holster and horse saddle on Luis' shoulder (What's a cowboy without a horse? A semi-trailer. :D).
The silage curve reaches its peak after about 5 minutes and then falls rapidly over the next 30 minutes. The leather looks quite hard at the beginning, but becomes more and more delicate as the silage falls and stays at about the same level with tobacco from the heart note until the end (approx. 7 hours)
A strong, slightly humid and dark pipe tobacco which appears particularly natural here in contrast to a dry and light hay note.
Unmistakably different herbs also play a role. The only thing I can recognize is tarragon, which is very noble and accompanies Lui during the whole process. I would have thought that sage would be a good choice but it is not listed.

Before I forget, I'd like to say something about whisky. First - whisky is definitely not included. Secondly - but it can certainly be interpreted into it. Various herbs and an almost overripe bergamot could be the reason for this. I take this "whisky note" only sometimes, and then only as a "light flag".
For me, however, "horse" cannot be associated with the scent at all. What now?
My suggestion: The nag simply ran away and lost the whisky at a gallop. The bottle broke and the wind now occasionally blows the "whisky flag" in Luis' direction. Well, how does that sound?

Do you think Lui is for you? I don't know Maybe you know his Coursan "Feuilles de Tabac" from France. The same guy only clean-shaven and without leather and a little bit more distinguished. If you like him, then you probably like Lui too. Lui may be "nishig" but he is also socially acceptable. I take him to work, shopping, home.... ...everywhere.
In the evening in front of the TV he might get on your nerves a bit, though, as Lui is a real nature boy. Even on hot days he tries hard.
I beg your pardon? On "hot" nights? Well, you're gonna have to figure that out for yourself. He's not short on testosterone.
To a woman it fits about like a men's check shirt or a cowboy hat - so very good ;-)

One last question: Do you know Marion Robert Morrison, aka John Wayne, aka "The Duke"?
He was THE Hollywood cowboy icon. I don't know if he was a good actor. But a heroic fighting spirit, paired with an astute mind and a stoic composure he could bring convincingly enough to the screen, so that milky boy like me back in the 70s wanted to follow in his footsteps blindly. My cowboy walk in front of the big mirror in my parents bedroom was so cool... now I was "The Duke"!!!
Today, a good 40 years after his death, heroes of his calibre are anything but "up-to-date". For me too, the old Westerns are long gone. But with "Par Amour pour Lui" you have the opportunity to take a look at the prairie to meet the old heroes. Well, at least it worked for me.

Lui - I take off my hat!
8 Comments
Metalfan 5 years ago 11 5
10
Bottle
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Bonjour Monsieur Duchaufour!
Recently, one late evening, Madame Metalfan was out of the house, I sat comfortably in an armchair with a cool bottle of beer and watched a live concert of a Doom Metal band on our stately big TV. On my skin was "Land of Warriors" and so it happened that I was suddenly "live" in the middle of the action. How convenient - saved admission fee, I thought! Knowing that I would never have experienced this illusion to this extent without its scent, I decided to write you a letter.

Unfortunately, I only know 8 fragrances from her hand, enough to marvel at her creativity. Is there actually THE scent typical of Durchaufour? But I had noticed one thing and it ran like a red thread through her assortment. Her fragrances are beautiful and round (no corners, no edges) and quite suitable for mass production. Although you are a niche expert and have long since turned your back on the mainstream, I have always had the impression that you want to address as many customers as possible. But "Land of Warriors" makes it clear that you won't get stuck here either. I must say, with this fragrance you have ventured miles away from the mainstream. He's so weird, so different! In a turquoise perfumery, for example, there would probably be no room for it even in the lowest shelf.

Before I now announce my individual perception of the Land of Warriors, I would like to take this opportunity to briefly address three other of her works. Finally, I would like to make it clear how differently I perceive their scents and how clearly Land of Warriors still encapsulates itself.
EXAMPLE 1: Timbuktu! Despite its masculine emphasis, this fragrance has a rather fragile composition. Do you like Swiss watches Monsieur? Here you have demonstrated the finest precision work and love for the Detei, just like with a Swiss movement. One scented gear wheel reaches into the other and a nervous restlessness completes the picture. Pretty abstract for a fragrance that should (and does) reflect a Malian oasis city. How would Pablo Picasso have painted Timbuktu?
With all due respect to craftsmanship, I wouldn't wear Timbuktu. But I wouldn't hang a Picasso over my sofa either ;-).
EXAMPLE 2: Sartorial! Mister Sartorial, who inspires with his umbrella, cham and melon in the "Very British" style, once gave me, as a result of his decadent "Spice-Rausch-Auftakt" a quite spontaneous purchase decision. It's a pity that the intoxication was already over 20 minutes after the "snorting". Then Mister Sartorial pushes the spice drugs aside and goes in a completely different direction. Very noble but also a bit bourgeois, but always "Very British", he becomes the "Duchaufour bestseller No.1" through beeswax, lavender & Co.
EXAMPLE 3: Leather up! A luxurious suede core, so delicate and supple that you'd want to doubt its authenticity, is enveloped in yawning boredom. I see a clichéd officer with a Hermes handbag around her shoulder. Where did she get it? - Irritated!
Apart from the (too) beautiful handbag and a crazy durability (very close to the skin, but despite showers easily 16 hours) the "special" remains hidden to me here. Of course, the price is something special, because below 280 Euro per 50ml the fragrance is hard to get.
Pardon Monsieur, I can imagine what an honour it would be for a perfumer to work for the charming artist Phuong Dang. Toutes mes felicitations! But...
Well, maybe the real connoisseur will recognize an artistic aspect here. Change of subject!

Monsieur, do you like metal? Land of Warrior not only smells damn good, you can hear it too. Where did you get your inspiration for this fragrance? Were you allowed to listen to "The vagabond prince" metal at the house?
Of course Land of Warriors has nothing to do with classical heavy metal. I'm thinking rather of Doom Metal, which in slow motion mode conveys a deeply dramatic, melancholic, desperate or apocalyptic atmosphere. If you are attracted to this rare subgenre, you should definitely test Land of Warrior. Although the fragrance is not quite as loud and in comparison to a Toni Iomi guitar a little brighter tuned, but from the stem it is damn similar.
Now you give it to Monsieur, you are a Metalhead!

The bottle is so beautiful and exciting that you want to press the spray button right away. Esoterically playful, he awakens wanderlust for a strange world. The horses of warriors against a blood-red background....
Yet I would have designed it differently. Maybe in black with a dark fog moon and riding warriors in a scary doom metal landscape?!

Before I ordered a bottling of this fragrance, I read the published ingredients.
Iris-Concrete stood there - bold printed! My problem - I don't like Iris! Thanks to the perfume commentary of a Monsieur Torfdoen, my curiosity about Land of Warriors was still aroused. It was worth it just because I now know that Iris can also come across quite differently. ... eu de la chance!
Iris-Concrete is one of the most expensive fragrances available. Dizzying 70000 to 90000 Euro costs about one kilo of the pulp and is thus about twice as expensive as 1kg gold bars or my car when it was still brand new. For me, however, it takes a "Land of Warriors" to appreciate Iris-Concrete. Merci beaucoup, Monsieur Duchaufour!

Land of Warriors has the necessary spatial depth to make a wide landscape appear.
A colourful mix of bitter plants, fruits and incense make this landscape seem strange and occult. Actually, Land of Warriors is a beautiful, mystical scent with a stoic serenity, provided you don't let the warriors intimidate you.
The image of the warriors and their horses is created by a mighty iris, which merges with a very rough, brittle and especially natural vintage leather. Tobacco, patchouli and musk complete the picture. The warriors draw all their attention to themselves and the scene shrinks to a small backdrop. The warriors are present from the beginning, but in the course of time it becomes more and more difficult to recognize the vastness and beauty of nature.
The name is the program here! Although no theater of war is depicted here, slow-riding warriors are. Since they seem neither tired nor wounded, the fight will not be over yet. Something chemical-toxic, "mineral-oily" lies in the air and mixes with the vile iris to a bizarre and threatening brew. This brew gives the fragrance its "bite" and is the indispensable icing on the cake that makes up the name Land of Warriors!
This brew stands in contrast to the ancient image of warriors on horseback and thus gives rise to a great deal of ambivalence. Arrows soaked in poison or a special gun oil? I don't know, I don't know! In any case, this ambivalence creates tension and space for plenty of imagination.

You once said that a balance is reached when opposites attract each other like Yin & Yang. Well, that's what they did with this scent! Such a splits Monsieur does them so fast no after!

La paix soit sur eux, Monsieur Duchaufour!

Metalfan!
5 Comments
Metalfan 6 years ago 14 7
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
"Ozzy´s", "Ossis" and East Frisians
The admittedly strange headline refers to the course of this special exception fragrance, which has a special significance for me because of the three "O´s". What's the matter with you? I'll just get going...

Top note: Black Sabbath! ....I know Yatagan already associated Black Sabbath singer Ozzy Osbourne with No 88 at the end of 2015 in a commentary. As a big fan of this (ex) band and trusting Yatagan´s Nase, I immediately ordered the fragrance blind.
And right in the beginning a guitar riff by Tony Lommi comes to my mind. He lost two fingertips in a factory accident, which meant the "end" for a guitarist at the end of the 60s. But not for Lommi! The guitarist has made and put on domes out of a bottle of detergent, shreds of an old leather jacket and wax, clamped thinner strings and tuned the guitar lower to reduce the string pressure. And with this completely new, tonally gloomy sound the foundation of Heavymetal was laid. No 88 is as loose as this Lommi guitar and has the same sound in the beginning!
Black Sabbath owes its name not only to bassist Geezer Butler. Also the demonic, satanic song lyrics mostly originate from him. If that sounds too scary to you, may you stay away from the spray button of the No 88! The 'cold breeze' is guaranteed - just a few minutes after spraying!
I also find drummer Bill Ward in this fragrance. No 88 has "boom" and punch. It starts like a drum roll and, becoming quieter, remains almost constant over the entire course.
Clearly, Ozzy's adding his mustard, too. His voice has something uncouth, wicked and dirty, like his signature scent No 88. And if you dare to enter the stage with such a voice, you should sing in a metal band! Where else?
On 17.1.2017 I wore No 88 in the Lanxess-Arena in Cologne to the farewell concert of the legendary Metal pioneers. I couldn't have made a better choice. Thanks again to Yatagan für´s attach!!!

Heart note: While Black Sabbath in the heart of No 88 becomes a little quieter, old memories come up in me - something "Ostalgic" spreads out! Life was simple and sociable in the GDR, where I grew up and lived until the fall of the wall.
There was a lot of life in the southern Thuringian pubs and it smelled like delicious food and Rhön beer from Kaltennordheim. And as `Ergoproxy´in told his commi, No 88 actually smells like beer. In addition there is a simple, tangy-fresh aftershave note, which resembles the legendary 'Tüff'.
At that time almost every car owner had patched and screwed his Trabi/Simson/MZ himself. And if you didn't have a workshop, you might have stood on the side of the road with a tool box. At the extension cord an angle grinder and go ging´s. The flying sparks stuck quite often in my nose (especially since my petrol lighter was always empty :)). Today I spray No 88 on, wait about an hour and the sparks fly again.
After work it's time to wash your hands and where soap didn't help, Linda Neutral helped. Actually it was a detergent in paste form but I didn't know anybody who used it for laundry, but there was Spee. I haven't had Linda Neutral under my nose for a long time, but if my olfactory memory doesn't cloud me, No 88 actually has that mark. It's not bad! Maybe a little "gross motor" but also clean and well maintained. And to be honest, there are enough fabric softeners on the perfume shelves - or?

Base note: No 88 presents itself as a dark man with a melancholic, bitter face over the entire course. Nevertheless, he loves action and adventure. But when he gets tired, he wants to go home to seclusion. He wants to stuff a pipe at his old wooden table and drink tea with his wife in peace of mind. It all sounds comprehensible, but his journey is like a transmigration of souls. The journey began on the 'boards that mean the world' as part of a British metal band. Finally he wandered as "Ossi" through the old GDR and ended up as East Frisian in a small hut on the Wadden Sea. Bill Ward´s Drumroll turns into a whistling wind that never sleeps in East Frisia. The wind gives off the aroma of the countless wild rose hedges that farmers have created to protect themselves from sandstorms. A little pulls through the cracks of the small hut and mixes with the warm wood, tobacco, tea and a few cinnamon stars (very close to the skin the whole).
His wife lights a candle with a match. Whether from headlights, flying sparks, a flex or candlelight, he always has a sparkle in his eyes.

Note at the end: No 88 you should never spray yourself on the clothes! Some fragrances like that, but it only unfolds on the skin.




7 Comments
Metalfan 6 years ago 6 5
3
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Also (even) for pacifists!
Recently, a scent mail with the sender "Angellise" fluttered into my mailbox. Besides my wish sample'Nirwana' gab´s another encore, which I didn't pay any attention to at first -'Veteran', what a silly name for a perfume!
I don't like the military - I don't like marching in line. Rather, I want to go through life as my own commander (Who doesn't want that?). I would like to be able to say NO without the consequence of "superiority". There have been enough debates in my life, but that doesn't belong here.
I'll just let the veteran speak. Let's see what he has to say.

Right in the first seconds after spraying on I notice that this veteran is no louder. So there is no (ex)skewer to drill his subordinates to obedience. After a few minutes I feel a light cool water note, or a green Irish tweed note with this "sea-price DNA", which remains in the background for the entire course.
And while I'm still wondering if he might have served in the Navy, I notice that the name'Veteran' goes perfectly with this fragrance. And there's another thing that strikes me: This'veteran' has shaken my stereotype thinking.
He's not cool, he's calm. He stands above things without the slightest arrogance. Who now believes he is boring or meaningless is enormously wrong. He's still able to run a company! With diplomacy, idealism, serenity and humanity he deserves recognition and respect!

Satisfied I sit down in the living room and make myself comfortable. My wife wonders what I sprayed myself with. In terms of taste, we rarely reach a common denominator with fragrances. But this also impressed her. Hmmm delicious, she says - there's sandalwood in there. Okay?! ... i hadn't noticed yet. I hadn't read anything about the scent yet.
Cypress, lemon and a lot of alcohol gave it to the greeting that was certain. Then there was the "sea prisene-DNA" and then there was lavender. Finally, we had vanilla (which bothers me a little, because it's sweet), some tobacco and amber. Now I was curious to see what is written in the perfume dictionary and whether my nose passed the test.

Well, at least, apart from tobacco, all self-sniffed ingredients (+ my wife's sandalwood) were present. The sea prisene-DNA, which only flares up in the background, is an (individual?) perception about whose ingredients I know nothing.
But I'm surprised I didn't notice the bitter orange and the good portion of pepper. After reading them, they were clearly in my nose.

All in all, Veteran is a respectable, serious and mature character head. And I had the honour (thanks to Angelliese!) to write the first comment.

At ease! ;-)




5 Comments
Metalfan 6 years ago 10 5
8
Bottle
4
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Damn, what's sticking to my wrist?
Recently at Wigger, the only "Tante Emma - Nischenparfümerie" in the whole of NRW (since Schnitzler was sold to Douglas), I asked the owner for a tobacco-heavy men's fragrance. His first idea wasn't bad, but it was still too "wintry" for me. Then it was Cuba.
A sprayer on the test strip and? ...I don't know. Best I spray it right on my wrist. Man what's the bottle ugly - no matter. So bsst, bsst, bsst (Mr. Wiggers look reveals that it was at least 1 bsst too much) and? ....still don't know.
A sour green tobacco note with an indefinable confusion appeared at first. But then it got really old Cuban and Fidel Castro himself seemed to be ghosting through the Wigger perfumery. Well, the point goes to Cuba, I thought.
Wait a minute, what's this? What's the use of that? ...Fidel! ...you fart :-(((((((
Thanks a lot to Fidel, too, now this sh....................................................... on my wrist. Now I got the salad. And Fidel, cool as a fiddle, takes cold cigar ashes from his olive green guerilla jacket. Okay, I want to believe it was the cigar ash!
After the "fartiness" has vanished, and that lasts about 2 minutes laaang, Cuba becomes really good.
A very dark, extra bitter and moist tobacco scent with a hint of lime and mint spreads. A fragrance that can't be more masculine. And while I still philosophize with Mr. Wigger about God and the perfume world, the purchase decision has long since been made.
In the next days I wore only Cuba and enjoyed his beautiful tobacco heart. Too bad this one can't be preserved.
In the base the tobacco and also the mint fades. The lime becomes clearer, even vetiver, clove and a hint of rum I was taking. The whole works now, without the "tobacco dampness" quite easily and dryly. Especially the lime seems to have fallen from the tree and dried by a merciless sun, even before putrefactive bacteria get wind of it.
All in all, I find the basis somewhat boring and powerless. Too bad!

Balance: Cuba starts (after Fidel's small Malör) very tobacco heavy - "old Cuban" from 0 to 10 points. And that, although Fidel didn't even light his cigar.
Sun-dried fruits, grasses and herbs then displace tobacco - point drop to 7!
Since "Cuba fragrance" with his golden heart can also give an impression of "Cuba country", he gets 8.5 points from me.
The shelf life is still very good when the silage drops steeply. In addition I would like to mention that I dare 6 - 8 sprays on the forearm and the smell sticks then in the Behaarung. Makes 4 points for silage and 9 for durability.
I have now come to appreciate the simple, even poor design of the bottle. A fancy bottle would be inappropriate. The old "Kuba-Land", which was skillfully staged, is simple and beautiful, but certainly not chic. So 8 points for the flacon.


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