MonsieurTest

MonsieurTest

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MonsieurTest 4 years ago 11 7
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
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Guerlain kills my Summer Darlings
Beyond the light, quickly fading colognes, it is not easy to find really good summer scents for men. What seems to me to apply to the broad market probably also applies to one of the oldest and most venerable houses: Guerlain.
For the winter, the choice of different, exquisite fragrances is truly great here - just think of Habit Rouge and its more contemporary and wearable flankers, the wonderfully warming L'Instant pour l'homme and - depending on the old-fashioned or newer gourmet nose - also Heritage or some versions of the Homme-Ideal almond flatterer.
It becomes more difficult for the warm, even hot season. Of course, one can resort to the very light Guerlain Colognes (for example the wonderful Eau de Cologne Imperial available since 1854). Or you can use the Aqua Allegorias, which fluctuate between ladies' and unisex and are often tastefully appropriate to their theme. But in the actual men's segment it gets close to the market chief from Paris. For my taste, the most beautiful summer perfume is the eau boisée: finely woody, elegantly floating on that moijoto accord that was first presented in the original Guerlain Homme EdT.
With some delay and after frequent Thierry water bashing, some of the finest noses and fairest writers here (read about Schoork, Defcon Schatzsucher and FabianO - all of them in the Guerlain Homme EdP thread! The EdT is a well mixed Guerlain level Moijto chord of white rum, light sweetness, subtle mint, stored on a finely dimmed, summery bed of vetiver and woods. I hardly notice that there is tea floating in the middle of the bed, but as a tea lover I'm not surprised either. The whole thing doesn't go through a big development, but it appears round and balanced from beginning to end, nothing stands out, at most a slightly alcoholic fresh vibe at the very beginning.
The fragrance seems a bit more urban to me compared to the somehow more nature- and south-orientated Eau Boisée. In my opinion, it goes better with an evening at the theatre or a cocktail party than with a walk through bushes and woods or to the beach (instead: eau boisée). I find the origin EdT to be more youthful, reckless or exuberant compared to the eau boisée. But also far beyond youth I like to wear these two light and pleasing summer-hommes, which are rarely disturbing even for those who are enemies of scent.
Unfortunately, Guerlain is now discontinuing this EdT (as it were the Eau boisée without the cedar or Iso E Super wood). And apparently the beautiful almond and grapefruit cologne of the Homme Idéal series will also be discontinued. The remaining summer scents of the Idealmann series (Cool and Sport), I found, like many here, far less balanced composition than the Homme Ideal Cologne. Probably it's not so much alleged loss of taste in the house of Guerlain, but rather market demand and LVMH's in-house controlling that will now transport two of my summer favourites into the great realm of past fragrances.
The good news is that the Eau Boisée and the slightly more autumnal, darker, vetiver-earthy Guerlain Homme EdP are still being produced. So even after saying goodbye to Homme Ideal Cologne and the light and palatable Guerlain Homme EdT, there's no need to walk naked through the summer
7 Comments
MonsieurTest 4 years ago 34 13
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9.5
Scent
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Elegantly floating woods make music over lime-mint rum chord
This is a very fine, restrained and elegantly composed summer scent. You probably need to wear it more often - and best of all in the right surroundings, for example on holiday in the Mediterranean, to appreciate and enjoy all its finesse. In the perfume shop, this rather quiet musician will probably quickly go under in concert with the louder competitors.
Eau boisé is, as the name suggests, a fragrance in which the wood is in the foreground. You have to like it, if you have an allergy to pencils, you better stay away. But if you like this sharpened smell of freshly scraped wood, Thierry Wasser arranges this probably cedar or similar note in the most refined way I know, summery light: the woods seem to float above a really tender sweet rum-lime and (very subtle) mint. But all this is so well composed that the nuances blend together in a wonderfully creamy way. Those who like the pencil-cedar note, and appreciate Laliques White or the more forward looking wood of Quorums Silver, will find a similar theme here; refined with the subtle rum note and with a soothing lime, which makes Guerlain's Eau boisé of the three wood favourites mentioned the most rounded and elegant fragrance.
The vetiver, for many an anxiety theme, is also soothed and dimmed here. While I needed many attempts to appreciate Guerlain's classic vetiver EdT slowly and rarely wear it, the eau boisé opened up to me much faster.
The sillage of this fine composition is certainly not enormous, but it is not as weak as often criticized here. Rather, it creates the floating or puzzling effect that is characteristic of refined, seductive perfumes, which only hints and attracts and thus has an attractive effect: What smells so fine and delicious? The durability, in this discreetly attractive skin-near area is also good, although not bombastic: in the warm south about 5 hours, in cooler temperatures even longer. And a remainder on the skin or shirt will stay overnight as well.
If Parfumo.de allowed several signature fragrances, and thus had a heart for schizos (most of them act as such with their constantly swelling fragrance portofolios - and sign with fantasy names?), then Guerlains Eau boisé would certainly be one of my summer signature fragrances. But good: the German Civil Code probably insists on a single signature, and Parfumo.de (unfortunately) adheres to it.
Before the sheep's cold comes tomorrow, today a sunny Corona Sunday is to be ennobled with this wonderfully lively summer scent. And hopefully this summer we will come to the Mediterranean...
13 Comments
MonsieurTest 4 years ago 11 8
8
Bottle
4
Sillage
4
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Citric delights from the depths of time
A classic cologne to dream of. The close relationship to the much more famous 4711 Eau de Cologne is not surprising, as both recipes originate from the early days of Cologne's fragrant water around 1800 and have very similar ingredients.
However, the Atkinson water, which was once English but has long since come from Italy, appears lighter, more sparkling, more citrusy and slightly less spicy than the German fragrance. As known, many of us associate it with our mothers or grandmothers, who always kept a bottle of it in a little bag. What, until we ourselves grew older, long seemed to us to be the epitome of the old-fashioned, dusty.
And then: what a wonderfully inspiring name: Gold Medal 1799. the recipe is said to date from 1799, the gold medal and the new name were given 80 years later, at the 1878 world exhibition. one would love to read the jury minutes: how did Guerlain do, who else was in the race...?
It seems to me that Atkinson (or more precisely: the Italian Perfume Holding, which manufactures and distributes the products of this brand) no longer produces this really beautiful, summery light cologne; the same probably applies to the equally time-honoured and recommendable English Lavender by Atkinson/Perfume Holding. If you can still catch these scents in Italy or on the net, you should probably do so soon, because the Atkinson assortment seems to be soon purged of these old treasures - and the present of fragrance history to become poorer by a few treasures.
By the way, the really wonderful, summery top note reminds me of the opening of Ferraris Bright Neroli, which is also produced by Perfume Holding, which of course then has a stronger and longer-lasting substructure.
GoldMedal's happiness does not last long, a few hours at close quarters. But for these short moments this jewel shines all the brighter from the depths of time.
8 Comments
MonsieurTest 4 years ago 14 10
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Delicious, light and round: lime on nutmeg
Geza Schön has managed this very well: a simple yet profound dual sound of very fresh and authentic lime and a beautifully round nutmeg.
In my opinion, this Limette-Nutmeg Cologne is one of the best of the 4711 refreshing waters; in terms of the simple yet convincing composition, it actually reaches the Guerlain level of the Aqua Allegorias.
The shelf life of this tasty Muscat lime is also quite good for a cologne, although not quite as persistent and superficially present as the Guerlain mandarins, grapefruit and neroli twigs. Fits perfectly into spring and summer.
10 Comments
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