Moonhaze
Reviews
Moonhaze
Luminous and so, so elegant
Leonard shares some similarities to YSLs Paris, in that they both have quite prominent Rose and powdery Iris hearts, and because they both exemplify a very french type of esthetique and composure, but though these two fragrances are structurally somewhat similar, YSLs Paris veers in a different direction with the addition of sweet Violets, where as Leonard de Leonard maintains a more "bitter", aromatic edge because of its springlike, greenish, Hyacinth accord.
But what really sets Leonard apart from other french, Rose centered, chypres of its kind is its dazzling, emerald green opening, its nuanced note of soft, sueded Leather, and an exquisite, delicate note of moist earth, all of which add distinctive dimensions to this composition, and elevate the lush florals to new levels of refined sophistication. Truly beautiful.
But what really sets Leonard apart from other french, Rose centered, chypres of its kind is its dazzling, emerald green opening, its nuanced note of soft, sueded Leather, and an exquisite, delicate note of moist earth, all of which add distinctive dimensions to this composition, and elevate the lush florals to new levels of refined sophistication. Truly beautiful.
Blackened violet
The opening of Atelier Noir can best be described, not by referencing the scent of any one particular fruit or flower, but by an actual color, what I'm going to call, a shade of "blackened violet". Not necessarily from Violets as in the flower or Blackberry, though this fragrance does indeed have nuances of both those notes, but by the very hue itself, an intense, satiny shade of "blackened violet", a coloring that is more "felt" or sensed, than seen or actually smelled.
And it's from within this veil of "purply blackness" that slowly emerges the most enticing bouquet of bitter Hyacinths, dozens upon dozens of ruby red Roses, and a sweet, green-tinged, Lily of the Valley, all wrapped in an enveloping cocoon of rich Musk, gossamer-like aldehydes, vintage powder, a touch of dried fruit, and the grounding, earthy notes of Vetiver, and Patchouli.
But the real "Pièce de résistance" of this terrific composition is its extraordinary Rose accord, that is at once tenderly lifelike, like a just opened, dew kissed, garden rose, while simultaneously verging into the powdery, "cosmetics type" of lipstick roses that one often finds in beautiful classics like YSLs Paris.
An exquisite, lesser known, 80s vintage that is definitely worth hunting down, just gorgeous.
And it's from within this veil of "purply blackness" that slowly emerges the most enticing bouquet of bitter Hyacinths, dozens upon dozens of ruby red Roses, and a sweet, green-tinged, Lily of the Valley, all wrapped in an enveloping cocoon of rich Musk, gossamer-like aldehydes, vintage powder, a touch of dried fruit, and the grounding, earthy notes of Vetiver, and Patchouli.
But the real "Pièce de résistance" of this terrific composition is its extraordinary Rose accord, that is at once tenderly lifelike, like a just opened, dew kissed, garden rose, while simultaneously verging into the powdery, "cosmetics type" of lipstick roses that one often finds in beautiful classics like YSLs Paris.
An exquisite, lesser known, 80s vintage that is definitely worth hunting down, just gorgeous.
Fruitcake, Fire, and Ice.
Frosty aldehydes juxtaposed against spicy heat. True "Fire & Ice"! like Charlie Revson's famous lipstick shade.
The florals in this fragrance play but a supporting role, they are mainly used to "decorate" Ultima's two principal phases, which are its cool aldehydic opening, and its very warm, resinous drydown, since if not for a very transparent rose and a spicy note of carnation, middle notes would be practically non-existent in this fragrance.
It is because of this bypass of middle notes that Ultima quickly transitions from its dramatic, cool white, powdery opening, to an intensely warm (hot) amber drydown, which is overflowing with cinnamon, candied fruit, opoponax, clove, and a sweet, sweaty, animalic musk.
Bergamot surprisingly runs throughout the entirety of the fragrance, it seems to intensify its cold opening facet, and adds a subtle fruity freshness to its heated drydown.
Definitely unisex by todays standards, and yet to my nose, It actually leans a tiny bit masculine, probably because of its subtle smokiness, rich woods, and its pronounced patchouli and pimento notes.
Ultima by CR is a uniquely beautiful oriental composition, made from very high quality materials. It's like nothing you'll ever smell in modern perfumery, a nearly forgotten work of perfume art from a bygone era.
The florals in this fragrance play but a supporting role, they are mainly used to "decorate" Ultima's two principal phases, which are its cool aldehydic opening, and its very warm, resinous drydown, since if not for a very transparent rose and a spicy note of carnation, middle notes would be practically non-existent in this fragrance.
It is because of this bypass of middle notes that Ultima quickly transitions from its dramatic, cool white, powdery opening, to an intensely warm (hot) amber drydown, which is overflowing with cinnamon, candied fruit, opoponax, clove, and a sweet, sweaty, animalic musk.
Bergamot surprisingly runs throughout the entirety of the fragrance, it seems to intensify its cold opening facet, and adds a subtle fruity freshness to its heated drydown.
Definitely unisex by todays standards, and yet to my nose, It actually leans a tiny bit masculine, probably because of its subtle smokiness, rich woods, and its pronounced patchouli and pimento notes.
Ultima by CR is a uniquely beautiful oriental composition, made from very high quality materials. It's like nothing you'll ever smell in modern perfumery, a nearly forgotten work of perfume art from a bygone era.
Decadent cinnamon liqueur
GORGEOUS ! Just gorgeous, Cinnamon goodness !
A potent melange of incense and opulent spices with sweet nuances of creeeeamy jasmine and other narcotic flowers. The drydown is "buttery", custard-like, redolent of Bourbon Vanilla, and chock-full of high quality sandalwood.
Very powdery, so, so Boozy - (like aged cognac), utterly decadent; Glorious !!
I personally prefer this to the current incarnation of Opium. (they murdered that fragrance years ago )
PS. I have the Edp in the original formulation, circa 1989. My version is not the civet bomb (tons of cheap civetone) that others are describing, the drydown is more Shalimar than Tabu. I have not sampled the most recent formula, but I doubt that the amount of resins, and other high quality materials that were used to compose the early 90s vintage, are still being utilized in the more current, and relatively inexpensive "cologne" version. So get the earlier Edp or parfum formulation if you can, and keep in mind, this stuff ain't for the faint hearted. Enjoy !
A potent melange of incense and opulent spices with sweet nuances of creeeeamy jasmine and other narcotic flowers. The drydown is "buttery", custard-like, redolent of Bourbon Vanilla, and chock-full of high quality sandalwood.
Very powdery, so, so Boozy - (like aged cognac), utterly decadent; Glorious !!
I personally prefer this to the current incarnation of Opium. (they murdered that fragrance years ago )
PS. I have the Edp in the original formulation, circa 1989. My version is not the civet bomb (tons of cheap civetone) that others are describing, the drydown is more Shalimar than Tabu. I have not sampled the most recent formula, but I doubt that the amount of resins, and other high quality materials that were used to compose the early 90s vintage, are still being utilized in the more current, and relatively inexpensive "cologne" version. So get the earlier Edp or parfum formulation if you can, and keep in mind, this stuff ain't for the faint hearted. Enjoy !
Candied Gold !
Exquisitely warm and comforting. Powdery sweet, and delicious.
A bouquet of carnations, and Lilly of the Valley that is completely enveloped in billowy, ambery clouds of vintage nitro musks -( get the vintage from the 1960s), soft woods, powdery aldehydes, and a gently purring civet.
Like a fluffy yellow kitten that has been perfumed with white musk, amber, and carnation.
Seriously !... What's not to like ??
A bouquet of carnations, and Lilly of the Valley that is completely enveloped in billowy, ambery clouds of vintage nitro musks -( get the vintage from the 1960s), soft woods, powdery aldehydes, and a gently purring civet.
Like a fluffy yellow kitten that has been perfumed with white musk, amber, and carnation.
Seriously !... What's not to like ??
