MrGaunt

MrGaunt

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MrGaunt 4 years ago 27 4
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
7
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Straight to the heart
The sister scent is known here like a colorful dog, so I will not write the classic commentary, but rather go into the special features of this scent compared to the original.

The fragrance comes in the same metal box as Andy Tauers miniatures, so everything is in Tauer style. There seems to be just some kind of additional coating. If you push the lid away, a yellow, relatively hard mass laughs at you and a - at least to most - known scent comes out. This mass can now be applied and the application of the fragrance is finished.

The base consists of jojoba oil and beeswax. Jojoba oil is also not a classic fat (triglyceride) like most natural oils, it is chemically actually a wax (fatty alcohol ester of fatty acids). Because of these two main wax components, the base feels very pleasant and less greasy to me. Whoever uses beeswax lip care or knows jojoba oil as massage oil probably knows what I am talking about. Despite a slight lubricating property, it also has a somewhat dry feeling. I find it very pleasant. Jojoba oil is to be regarded as a high-quality oil.

Now for the scent. I'm not very experienced with Attars, but the scent development seems very similar. In contrast to the original LDDM, something is missing in the development, but the somewhat harsh effect at the beginning is gone. So the scent enters the heart and fades seamlessly into the base. This is of course due to the properties of the base. Without alcohol this is logically a completely different development.
If not overdosed, I find the original LDDM to be a very pleasant, almost cuddly scent. Different perfumos, but certainly many non-perfumos will see it differently, so the solid-LDDM may be underestimated in terms of potency. Because of the corona, there is no need for a field test, so be careful if you plan to care for your body with it because the ingredients are of high quality and pleasant
I'm careful with my classification of the Sillage and I'm aware of the scent, so I've raised it a bit higher, actually I personally feel it is a bit more subdued than the original.

For me the fragrance is a great addition to the desert line. I use it especially every second day in the evening, because I skip the "nervous" part and go straight into the cuddling zone. Just the right thing to apply it, for example, half an hour before going to bed and then to twilight away in a pleasantly cuddly manner. With this it fills a gap, because I haven't applied the original much lately.
If you know LDDM in the original, you will immediately find it in the Solid-LDDM. I assume that the scent base of Andy Tauer has not been changed. Instead of alcohol, jojoba and beeswax take over the gentler release. Great stuff
4 Comments
MrGaunt 5 years ago 3 1
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
7
Longevity
8
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Havana Part 5 (the last) - Hemingways flower garden and unfulfilled love
This fragrance from the Havana series by Jacques Zolty also has a background story, almost a sad one:
"The Hotel Ambos Mundos, in Havana, has been home to Ernest Hemingway's secrets and dreams. He spent a lot of time in his room 511 observing someone, who greeted him from the street before getting into a convertible and driving off, leaving behind a trail of scent and charm. That girl was an aspiring actress named Leonella. The only woman who denied the attention of the famous writer and who remained forever in his heart."

While the other scents refer more to Cuban life, there is a concrete personal background story here. This way the fragrance already settles down a little. It sets itself off even more by the scents. While the other fragrances are dominated by more leather, smoke or coffee, especially in the base (i.e. darker notes), this fragrance is very floral and is likely to attract the female population in the first place.

Now I have to say, this is a territory I'm hardly at home in. My only but very feminine flowery fragrance is "Pure Extreme" by Micallef (also great), the rest is very mixed but almost always unisex or masculine oriented. So I may not have thought about writing anything, but after four scent comments on this five-part series something would be missing and my inner Monk (or alternatively Sheldon) would miss the finish.

The first shock after spraying: Hubba Bubba! Yes exactly, THE Hubba Bubba, the pink chewing gum that all children used to want to have and parents hated because you could make chewing gum bubbles very well with it. Jasmine and Ylang-Ylang in collaboration with fruits and probably the brown sugar play up quite loudly.
But don't worry, after a few minutes the fruits will retreat quite quickly and the flower components with the amber will take over the direction. The quite strong sweetness remains for a while, but then joins in.
What remains is a very pleasant scent of jasmine and ylang-ylang, intercepted with light creaminess of amber and further a clear but well balanced sweetness. Apart from the initial chewing gum shock, the development is not too extreme anymore.
A beautiful fragrance for already young women. If Hemingway's Leonella smelled like that, then I can well imagine that it made him a part of the attraction to her. So here, too: Topic hit.
But you have to like bright and sweet flowers, jasmine and ylang-ylang are clearly the stars in the circus ring.

The whole series is really well done, with nice background stories and scent components that make you think of Cuba. Speaking as a perfume, I find that the fragrances that make up the story satisfy a perfume-artistic claim. There is always a careful composition behind, the scents are well balanced. I also like the presentation a little towards pharmacy bottles. All in all from my point of view a very round successful work, thank you Jacques Zolty!

Three of the fragrances ("Severo", "Cubata" and "Havana Rain") have meanwhile moved in with me. The Severo will certainly be able to handle one or two applications in day-to-day operation
1 Comment
MrGaunt 5 years ago 7 1
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8
Scent
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Havana Part 4 - Coffee? I like it!
"Me gustas" means "I like you".

The fragrance, however, is not about relationship themes, but about Cuban coffee, which is supposed to reflect the Cuban soul. Jacques Zolty gives him the following story with:
"The Cubans' spirit is like the Havana coffee: intense, sweet, enveloping and unique. There is no other coffee like this one: you drink it slowly to savor its aroma and creaminess, while tuning into everything that surrounds you!"

A splash of citrus fruit starts the scent, which quickly warp.
Roast aromas spread quickly. No pure coffee, but certainly no Starbucks composition with tons of sugar and syrup, maybe it's actually like Jazzbob writes a malt coffee. The Cubans are not blessed with the best supply situation, so it could be that there is some malt coffee mixed in.
I think the carnation seeds have their share here. The whole thing is slightly spicy and malty, it could also be a coffee enriched with cardamom. But aren't the Arabs more likely to do that? Never mind.
Flowers are also subtle, but the main role is played by the spicy (malt) coffee. Not stomach unfriendly, quite soft. There will probably support the quiet players vanilla, Amber and Co..
When the coffee is a little drunk, the wood comes. Over time, the roasting aromas retreat somewhat, the seasoning content of the carnation seeds remains strong and the wood becomes somewhat stronger
The development is quiet and unspectacular, so there are no strong twists.

An hour could actually take place in a backyard cafe in Havana. You can also sit on old wooden chairs, get a nice Cuban coffee served, the flowery vegetation contributes its olfactory part. During a nice conversation when the coffee has been drunk for a long time, you rather get a whiff of coffee from the neighboring tables.

Do I like it? Yes. Did he hit the topic? That, too. But a bottle won't move in with me, the notes don't quite suit my taste. Exciting from a perfume point of view, I would rather not wear it.
A small warning: The spiciness comes from my view really dominating from the seed direction. Now I have no idea how carnation seeds smell, but e.g. "gentle Fluidity" (silver) also has these notes. I find them interesting, but rather special. But you should test first anyway.

From the series I'm still missing "Leonella", of which I didn't order a sample at first because it seemed rather feminine from the description. But tomorrow a rehearsal arrives to complete this interesting series. Together with bottles of "Cubata" and "Havana Rain". :-)

1 Comment
MrGaunt 5 years ago 11 4
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Havana part 3 - rain and leather in Havana, theme hit
The theme of this fragrance from the interesting series by Jacques Zolty is the moment when the weather tips over on a hot summer's day and changes from the sultry hot air to rain:
"In Cuba, during summer, there's a specific point in time when the scorching heat of the day is about to break. The clouds suddenly thicken, the light darkens and people come out in the street to look up at the sky. The air is filled with the smell of very hot asphalt, but within minutes the rain takes over."

You can actually smell the eponymous rain in Havana.
The road is heated up and within minutes it rains down. No cold rain, warm Caribbean summer rain. The steam that rises from the roads carries the asphalt smell with it and forms this special combination of scents that you rarely encounter in our latitudes. The fragrance actually manages to recreate such an event. It doesn't cool down properly, but it remains very pleasant in the air for a while before the sultriness usually takes over again. There should be fruit parts, I only smell them minimally and cannot make out any concrete fruits. It also smells a little like buildings in the shell where the concrete is not completely dried out, even a very special smell.

After approx. 10 minutes this very special odor part is over, it remains smoky and leather takes over an important role. With the tar together you can smell a good cool leather jacket. Not the finest nappa leather for the business man, not even the 30 year old jacket of grandpa, but more the biker or jeans style. Reminds a little of the dark rebel scents of John Varvatos.

I miss a little the spicy notes in my heart, but as in the other two scents of the series, which I have commented on, the sequence shifts a little - at least in my perception. For me the heart is quite clear leather+soft smoke.
The spices come only after some time in the base note. Here, a little spice is added to the leather that has become softer but continues to set the tone. I smell a little pepper, rather bitter spices, none from the Christmas bakery. Cumin might get there, but I mean, there's something else I smell. But it could also be that this impression is supported by the Labdanum + Amber combination and that they are actually more resin components. But it doesn't smell very resinous, Amber also brings only a slight hint of sweetness that only plays along at the back.

In total also a beautiful fragrance with an exciting effect in the top note, it really smells like Caribbean rain. One of the darkest fragrances (even if I still miss Leonella), rather masculine and well balanced. From the development I like Cubata and Severo a little bit better, the heart and the base of Havana Rain is not quite so independent and the fragrance development slightly less exciting. Nevertheless a really very well composed fragrance. Also wearable in everyday life for those who want to go a bit more in the cool leather direction.
4 Comments
MrGaunt 5 years ago 19 6
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Havana part 2 - also hit here topic
After sniffing at and commenting on Severo yesterday, now the next scent of the Havana pentalogy by Jacques Zolty.

A "Cubata" is actually a long drink and the big brother of the Cuba Libre, like a Cuba Libre only with a really good dark ripe rum. It also brings a significantly different amount of taste nuances into play. No comparison to the simple white standard drum. But actually the fragrance is not about the drink Cubata, but about the smell of a cigar factory, the tobacco leaves and the people working there.

The fragrance starts quite smoky and sweet, slightly alcoholic, slightly scratchy but not too unpleasant. That fits the pyramid, but I find the honey and the rum from the heart note very present at the beginning. You can really imagine a spicy good rum in your cola, but the smoke and tobacco are much stronger.
A little the smell is initially nothing for weak nerves because it turns up well.

After the excitement has subsided a little, the smoke goes back a little. I smell something floral not mentioned in the pyramid. Slowly the rum note also recedes and the scene relaxes.
In the base I mainly perceive a nice leather-tobacco note, supported by a rather reserved light sweetness which only has a soft honey tone. A certain pleasant astringency remains, I suppose the guaiac wood is partly to blame for that. And a little bit dirty and smoky he remains after all.
All in all a beautiful and exciting development. Quite a lot of ruckus at the beginning, marked relaxation in the base.

Cubata presents the life in the tobacco factory suitably, therefore again: Topic met. Smoking is also done there and perhaps one or the other Coke/Rum Longdrink is plastered. Tobacco leaves have a high olfactory complexity and smell of many things like honey or coffee and not only of "tobacco", that is well captured here. Anyone who has ever sniffed at really good Cuban cigars will confirm this.

I can think of two comparisons: Tobacco Vanilla and Gold Knight. Cubata is almost a good layer experiment from both scents. From Tom Ford of course the tobacco and the sweetness, the Kilian controls the clear honey note and the woody base to it. Only the smokiness which is still present in the base is missing.
In comparison to the Severo from the same series which has Cuba Libra as a sub-theme and also mixes at the end with tobacco/leather, one must recognize clear differences. More happens with the Cubata, it is perhaps one too many with the smoke and the strong development for the non-parfumo member. The Severo remains more pleasing and smoother (if you like leather), the Cubata is more excited and a bit dirtier. Both are great.

Really fine thing, gets on the wish list.
6 Comments
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