MrGaunt

MrGaunt

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MrGaunt 5 years ago 7 6
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
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Cuba libre in the cigar lounge
A few of the statements already compress it in a very similar direction going.
But you can still devote a few more words to this interesting fragrance.

I haven't really stumbled across Jacques Zolty yet, but ALZD's 5 fragrances have been a special success because of the coherent Cuba theme. So it's like a pentalogy. If this is always a difficult thing to do, it can also seem very stressful. Severo I call my own, 3 of the 4 other fragrances are ready as a sample.

So let's start with Severo.
There's been a lot of talk here about Coke. Bullshit. Cuba Libre here you go, a good one with a decent rum and lime. Maybe a little mint leaf for the garnish.
That's how it starts. Coke alone doesn't do it justice. Lime belongs to a Cuba Libre and you can smell it, namely by a light astringency. So it has to be, A little green flashes through with. Pleasantly the sweetness of the Cuba Libre is not too sticky, so you have paid attention to good balance with a good rum.
Now you might think why would a fragrance want to smell like a long drink and that can only work as a theme fragrance. Yes, I think it is. And that's pretty good.

After a while, as always, the citrus fruits retreat and take over the soft parts of the fragrance. I can't notice a pronounced heart note with pepper and/or birch.
In the base you sit in a beautiful cigar lounge in Havana and slobber on your Cuba Libre. You just have to think away the smoke a little, I hardly notice anything. But what comes to light are leather armchairs and somehow you can imagine smelling good (unlit) cigars.
The leather is not a very fine one from the English men's club where only discussion takes place and where as a woman only the Queen is let in, nor an old leather jacket used for many years. These are old good leather armchairs which have been maintained with beeswax, but which have been used as a seat for a lot of work
So you sit there, slurp on, in the background you hear Compay Segundo playing "Chan Chan". De Alto Cedro voy para Marcané... Llego a Cueto, voy para Mayarí
But I digress.
The basis is therefore comfortable leather. It's not in the pyramid, but it's there. Whether you smell tobacco is up to you. The Cuba Libre stays with it for quite a long time, but with time it withdraws and remains a light, pleasant vanilla sweetness that blends beautifully with the leather and becomes one.
Tuscan Leather was mentioned here as the cover for a fragrance part. That fits conditionally, I do not find the leather in Severo so harsch.

A really very successful theme scent that goes great with Cuba.
Theme scents can be difficult to wear. I think you can wear this one very well, especially when the base comes to wear.
Tendency somewhat masculine according to traditional classifications, but quite wearable for women.

I am very happy about this blind purchase, it fills a not yet known gap in my leather scents and actually makes me think of Cuba where I absolutely have to go again.
6 Comments
MrGaunt 5 years ago 15 4
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
6
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Topic hit
Pierre Guillaume writes on his homepage:
"A particularly silky fragrance, where Pierre Guillaume transformed the citrus acidity into a scented caress.
The Kumquat-Santal accord seems infused with sunlight and develops on the skin the charms of a melting cream, soft and fresh"

It's a good fit
Comment finished.
Well, a few words more must be it probably, otherwise the evil "not helpful" button comes pressed.

Soft-fruity start, quite citric, but without the slightly acidic window cleaner effect that many citrus chords have. So Kumquat fits perfectly from the note. Ginger Sharpness doesn't come up.
Then it gets very creamy and stays that way. The fruit steps a little into the background, the cream a little, but both play equal roles. Maybe with a little more cream. The softness of the citrus scent makes you think of light floridity even if there is nothing floral to be found in the pyramid. The creaminess comes naturally from sandalwood, it is one of the light-scented species.
The fruity-creamy base is unagitated, gentle, harmonious and does only one thing: make you feel good and think of summer. One might smell a high-quality sunscreen (not the nasty one), the other might think of the clean laundry Strangelove has already mentioned. Fine.
4711 I don't smell.

Yes, the scent is uncomplex. But he's doing what he's supposed to. In this respect, PG has hit the spot.
If you're looking for a fragrance Nobel Prize suspicious work of art that will exhaust your olfactory bulb and push your brain to its limits, please go on.

I like the smell, a feel-good generator as it was obviously thought of.
Unisex with a slight tendency towards feminine.
4 Comments
MrGaunt 5 years ago 13 1
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
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Feel-good fragrance with niche claim
Tiziana Terenzi has a considerable number of new fragrance launches in different series and price categories. Despite the large number of scents, the quality doesn't seem to suffer, at least not with the scents I get under my nose. Sure, not everything to my taste, but the quality is right.

With "Draconis" and "Arrakis" two new fragrances from the crisply expensive Luna Gold Collection are now available. Both are stars from the constellation of the dragon, whereas Arrakis is also the fictitious desert planet from the Dune cycles for cinema lovers. But the Terenzis do not refer to the latter.

Now for the fragrance:
It opens with a citric-medical cloud, the citrus fruits are not individually identifiable. Not very lemony, but not extremely bitter either. Well mixed. I think the bergamot plays the lead, backed up by the rest. In addition to the citrus fruits, a saffron-ud combination plays the second main role of the top note for me, rather the medicinal oud variety. Even though Oud isn't in the top note here, it's there for me. For the untrained nose this may be a bit harsh, niche perfume fans enjoy it.

The head retreats, the heart comes quickly with a concentrated amount of marzipan. Not exactly reserved, but very tasty. Fortunately, the sweetness is not too sticky, but good quality marzipan. The quality marzipan is supported by remains of the fruit from the top note, in addition slightly tart undertones which I assign to the woods which are also more supportive. This marzipan heart remains quite long with approx. 2-3 hours and forms an important pillar for the feel-good part of the fragrance. Apparently the tonka bean, supposedly only in the heart note, cheated its way forward a little earlier and very clearly and creates a really nice marzipan combination with the resinous woods.

Now one could be satisfied with this situation, because it lasts quite a long time with me. In my head the fragrance was already sorted in mentally, so it surprises with what I think is a rather late base note. This comes unusually suddenly, the base notes usually creep up rather slowly. Marzipan withdraws - albeit not completely - and leaves leather and tobacco to the fore. The tobacco should have been already shown in the heart, I think it comes rather late. For me leather also comes into play, even if it's not mentioned in the notes. The heart thus forms a very warm and slightly sweet scent combination dominated by tobacco and leather, which is a beautiful continuation of the pleasant but somewhat louder heart marzipan. Amber certainly does a lot of hard work as a supporter.

A very beautiful fragrance, which surprised me a bit with the development at the end. Up to his heart he is a little louder and (non-sticky) sweeter, there he could perhaps please the ladies a little more. The base note is almost masculine with the leathery tobacco. Even though I have mentioned marzipan several times, the fragrance is not squeaky-sweet but really good marzipan. Marzipan fans will know what I'm talking about.
This fragrance should only be used by people who have no problem with Tonka. Without Tonka there would be no quality marzipan here, and the hard-working Tonka bean also takes care of the residual sweetness in the base. Oud in the slightly medical version is also available here, but for me - apart from the first top note clouds - it is rather a reserved supporting role and not in the foreground. So don't panic who doesn't like Oud.

For me a purchase candidate as a great scent of well-being, in the base reservedly dosed possibly even suitable for work. The notes come from my view/nose temporally somewhat differently than given in the pyramid, but as they come they work quite wonderfully.
1 Comment
MrGaunt 5 years ago 20 5
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Amazingly complex border crosser who surprises.
As a declared Widian fan I was very much looking forward to the fragrance. The sister fragrance London is one of my favourite fragrances, as it is a bit more general and western-modern than the black and golden Widians which rather appeal to the friend of the Arab fragrance art. London does a great job as a modernist without being boring (quite the opposite).
Now I thought that the pulsating metropolis of New York as a role model would also produce a rather modern fragrance. Think so.

New York starts with a short house of mandarin bergamot, the citrus fruits must always spurt forward. The spurt is short and does not last more than one minute, then other notes take over the command.
In the heart New York suddenly becomes amazingly dirty, animal components fight quite successfully for supremacy, the mandarin tries to fight its way through again and again. Gently, Rose will make it through a little bit. You'd think it was an oud scent, I'm confused at best. Light sweetness is included. Matching is difficult. My assumption is, that here a relatively dirty patchouli with also a bit harsher vetiver takes over the supremacy. The remaining notes, however, underline this with a slightly sweet creaminess, the caramel part can also be identified. And again and again the fruits and rose fight their way forward. Sounds a bit restless and unharmonious, but it's not that much.
Somehow at this stage I feel a little reminded of "Chimaera" by Tiziana Terenzi, who drives the interplay into completely different spheres. Who looks for a very calm smell should be careful here.
Over time, the hustle and bustle disappears, the dirty front retracts surprisingly far, the fragrance becomes even softer. Oh, there's the tobacco. If one could somehow suspect something in the heart, one could not place oneself in the foreground there. A very pleasant, soft tobacco. It is supported by tonka/vanilla and creamy parts (will probably be the musk with the iris). The second main role in the base is played by the flowers. Rose can still be guessed, but I think jasmine remains more present. The scent becomes very calm, very relaxed, so here it doesn't fit to the never sleeping New York anymore. The sweetness is well dosed and supported, the tobacco is natural and no overaromatized headache pipe tobacco.

New York is going through an exciting development for me. Not everyone's thing guaranteed, I like that. The base is enormously relaxed, in contrast to the modern and even slightly synthetic London (not meant negatively) I find New York very natural. It's a great fragrance. I just expected it to be different.
5 Comments
MrGaunt 5 years ago 18 3
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Exciting orange cracker with a soft soul
As an addition to an ALZD order this interesting fragrance reached me. The memos are better known for the different leather scents, one of them is in my possession. But somehow it has rarely attracted me to this brand, so I have tested very few fragrances. There were maybe 4 or 5, I'm not consistent with the documentation especially when I test in business.

When you think of the name "Winter Palace" you probably first think of oriental spices, maybe also comfortable leather with amber. But the candidate here is different.
It starts with a strong swing of essential orange oil. The way you know it when you say orange peel. Looks very natural. But it also has the effect that you first think of orange oil cleaner, I think you know what I mean by that. More medical with a touch of furniture polish. Not unpleasant, but this association resonates simply because it really comes along very orange-oily and initially of course still has the alcohol with it.

The medical grade of detergent then withdraws and everything becomes softer. Even if not indicated in the notes, a light wood note plays along for me, rather of the light variety. But it can also be caused by mate and tea. This main theme lasts longer: lots of orange, plus tea and/or wood to round it off. This is very successful and independent. Even if bergamot is also present and orange is of course a citrus fruit, I find the scent to be less typically citric. Citric fragrances are associated with a distinct freshness. But the orange makes me think more of Christmas, the time when the mandarins are back on the table and the beeswax candles are lit.
Interestingly enough, the scent even reminds me a little of an Ayurveda tea which I drank every now and then for a while, there are spices as well as orange and tea.

This brings us to the base. The fragrance does not undergo a great development. The orange part recedes a little, overall it becomes softer and shows a slight sweetness. Not squeaky, rather the typical vanilla amber sweetness as it plays along unagitatedly in many fragrances. Not loud, more gentle. The main voices continue to play the orange with light wood/tea.

For me absolutely no citric fresh fragrance, but lightly dosed, it is certainly also good to wear on a beautiful summer evening. I see it more in autumn and winter, so you can apply a little more and let its soft parts show to advantage.
A beautiful very independent creation, I always like that when you recognize fragrances immediately. Perhaps not the most complex and stunning, but a very nice scent of well-being which I consider if it will move in with me
3 Comments
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