MrGaunt

MrGaunt

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MrGaunt 5 years ago 9 5
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
6
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Fine unisex gentleman, no devil's stuff
He's titled "Gentiluomo", so gentleman.
This and the advertising text point to a clear male orientation, a classic (reinterpreted?) Cologne. Maybe a little towards the barbershop, with a soap? Nah, it's different,

For me he starts very fresh and citric and so he is characterized here at the moment. That's just the head. I don't really find him showery, for what I mean by shower gel scent there are notes missing somewhere, I can't describe that well.
In addition, very shortly after the citrus notes there are already quite a lot of flowers. First and foremost, I find him lavender-heavy. The floweriness is quite strong, but of the lighter variety. Nothing heavy but pompous, rather fresh flowers. Pleasant, but quite with a slightly feminine orientation, so I don't imagine a guy in 1888 who just got a fresh shave ;-)
After the flower shop has been ventilated a little, a soft, slightly woody base remains without a really dominant note. The three notes mentioned are quite successful and are well networked with each other. However, I claim that the iris also holds itself in the base, the softness has a powdery proportion which is not pure musk and it comes across clear (but not strong) a hint of lipstick vibe.

After the slightly stronger citrus/flower opening, the overall fragrance remains pleasantly soft. Some wood, some flower and some powder. No strong Sillage, something very close. A really nice feel-good scent that probably doesn't offend the environment either.
If you want something all day long, you have to spray it. After 4 hours at the latest it becomes very quiet. Even in the evening you can still sniff out leftovers on your wrist, but then you have to hold them to your nose.
From my point of view the fragrance is suitable for both sexes even if the name says otherwise.
5 Comments
MrGaunt 6 years ago 6 2
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Precious Tonka Sandalwood Workhorse
The brown sandalwood from Parma has not yet attracted much attention, probably due to the exclusivity that has now been abolished. Nice that normal mortals now also enjoy without traveling to the island.

It's not spectacular, but it's fine. And above all suitable for everyday work.
It starts very fresh, quite citric and slightly woody and with spice, even looks almost showery-designed but valuable for a very short time. Quite modern approach, I don't smell much of the old Colonia DNA except at the beginning and also at the beginning rather the light woody and spicy components as well as the tonka bean determine the picture.
After a short time the shower gel is gone, Kardamon retires a bit and it takes over mainly in my nose a sandalwood-tonka combination. This is very well balanced and looks pleasantly noble. Tonka brings a very sweet one like you know her from Tonka (I like that). This station wagon stays that way and that's a good thing.
I find durability rather mediocre and the sillage is also rather discreet after the start. But I will have to check it again, the Colonia Sandalo competed today against quite dominant scents on the remaining skin places.

Overall conclusion: A very nice fragrance for everyday work or if it may be more reserved on other occasions, also suitable in summer. Sounds a bit boring, but I keep sniffing around it and that's a good sign.
2 Comments
MrGaunt 6 years ago 24 4
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Best soft leather scent with twist?
As a confessing AJ Arabia / Widian fan I have the problem that the scents for my taste are mostly great class, but for something difficult in general use such as work. They often have a great creaminess, but also a certain "funkyness" due to the oud notes or a too strong sweetness in the Velvet Collection. Unfortunately, this restricts them for everyday work.

Now with London comes a fragrance that starts the Sapphire Collection and takes a different direction. In contrast to the other series, the oud seems to stay more in the background here and, after the Velvet Collection, moves a little further away from the more oriental scents of thee Black and Gold Collection. I look forward to the other fragrances.

But now to the fragrance.
Here especially the comparison to Tuscan Leather is drawn by the combination leather + fruit. It's been a while since I had it as a test, but I still think I can say that the comparison is not too accurate. I also call La Yuqawam pour Homme my own which is very similar to TL. Both scents are clearly more angular than London.
Other leather fragrances on the market are also difficult to compare directly, because either they go in the robust direction of the "leather jacket" in various elegant versions (motorcycle jacket with Dark Rebel Rider vs. fine but still quite cool leather jacket with Bottega Veneta pour Homme Extreme) or in the direction of "grandpa's leather armchair". That's generalized, but you understand what I mean.
Royal Leather" by Charriol is a leather scent that unfortunately receives too little attention and takes up the subject of leather + fruit very finely. A very fine leather scent, super office suitable but not boring.

London is now going in a slightly different direction. It starts with a strong dose of leather and raspberry, not very subtle but quite pleasant. Can one or the other certainly put on the first sniffer under "boring, I already know". Oud plays a background role, but is noticeable.
After a short time, however, it takes on a direction that I have never seen before from other leather fragrances. A very soft leather base remains, as does the fruit, along with very light floral components. But the fragrance gets a pleasant modern unsticky sweetness.
And that sweetness is hard to describe. No gourmand, not even fu*dry, very modern. The vanilla certainly does the main work here, supported by amber and musk. It occurred to me that I would rather expect the fragrance in the form of Geza Schön composed by Ormonde Jayne as a sister fragrance to Nawab of Oudh or Montabaco. Who knows the style of Geza Schön may understand what I mean by modern here. Probably they also work with Iso-E-Super, Ambroxan or other components in London, which is fine for me because it works very well.

After the leathery-fruity start, a fragrance that finds a great balance with restrained leather, some (raspberry) fruit and delicate flowers and a very pleasant sweetness remains after approx. 30-60 minutes. This combination really lasts for a very long time, after 12 hours I can still perceive it well on the skin even if it certainly no longer radiates far.
A very pleasant and generally compatible fragrance, yet without boredom with its own charisma of fine notes. Modern. I really like it. What I particularly like: I can imagine London very well dosed carefully as an office fragrance, with two more splashes it becomes more present in private use and in the first few hours the soft station wagon is quite a bit louder.
For certainly not a few perfumers, the fragrance might seem too untraditional, perhaps even designer. I still find it rather niche. Especially for fans of Geza Schön with his slightly different concept of fragrance creation certainly worth a test. *ClickGoodsBasket*
4 Comments
MrGaunt 6 years ago 16 6
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
L'Eau PHI de Marocain?
A new Tauer is always very exciting.

He is known primarily for his strong fragrances, partly polarizing, not suitable for everyone. It seldom smells classic, beginners are quickly overwhelmed. A little it goes in the direction of hate or love. But with the two desert scents he has already created two very prestigious scents without making too many compromises.

I like his scents a lot. But with one limitation: little is portable for me in the office. The Kandahar rose sometimes finds its way onto my skin, rarely the desert air. I like L'Eau with pleasure and it is also very office suitable, but I have only rarely desire on this creaminess. Sounds weird, but it's like this.
Now Les Années 25 comes along, according to Tauer's description "A modern vintage". To anticipate: The description fits. The fragrance has something "old" in the positive sense, but brings the Tauer fragrance brand with it.

The start is strong, quite harsh and has this window cleaner note which - so I feel it anyway - has many fragrances with citrus-heavy top notes. However, this disappears very quickly (1-2 minutes), the citrus notes become more relaxed and shortly afterwards the rose comes and makes a present visit. It's a bit as if good Andy had put "L'Eau" and the "Collectible PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar" in the drawer and experimented a bit. Works but good.
The citrus notes then retreat after some time and remain quite slightly in the background. The base note is very soft and dominated by oakmoss and musk. With my nose the rose remains however further present. The whole thing is balanced by wood and tonka/vanilla, but they remain charmingly in the background choir.

A very successful and possibly the most suitable Tauer for the masses (together with L'Eau) without being boring. In contrast to his siblings clearly more reserved.
Is it a chypre? Probably. With the classification I always have a hard time, too many fragrances carry this label which seem too different to me.






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