MrLawmanMrLawman's Perfume Reviews

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MrLawman 1 year ago 6
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
7.5
Scent
A better first impression than actual character
Xerjoff Decas

Notes
Top notes: Tuberose, Tobacco, Calabrian mandarin orange
Mid notes: Florentine iris, benzoin, opoponax
Base notes: musk, balsam, bourbon vanilla

Background Information
Decas was released in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the 1861 collection (which also includes Naxos, Renaissance and Zefiro). Recurring element in this collection I find the use of citrus (Renaissance) or aromatic notes (Zefiro and Naxos). Seen this way, Decas, amber-vanilla-citrus fragrance, fits perfectly into the 1861 trend.

Fragrance composition
- Opening
Decas opens very warmly with amber and vanilla immediately in the foreground. The amber and vanilla are full and dense in their own right. The benzoin gives it a spicy character. The orris makes the fragrance buttery and creamy.

Underneath the amber and vanilla is the calabrian mandarin. This note makes the fragrance airy and of somewhat lighter weight. Very pleasant and mouthwateringly refreshing.

- Mid
The mid consists of a warm bed of amber and vanille with that mandarine note that lingers around. It reminded me slightly of Hale Bopp by Tiziana Terenzi but that scent leans heavily on lemon. Decas does so on tangerine. Hale Bopp is also heavy on spices (clove and cinnamon) while Decas stays straight forward with amber and vanilla. The only spicy facet associated with it is the benzoin.

- Dry Down
The dry down differs from the opening. Paired with the musk, the orris steps more prominently into the foreground. It makes the fragrance warmer and more sensual. The freshness of the tangerine - which I personally love - fades away, which is quite a shame if you ask me.

The trouble I have with the dry down is that it becomes a buttery, musky amber-vanilla scent. That's already explored territory for many of us. In other words, nothing groundbreaking. You can almost think of it as Ani without that sharp ginger and bergamot, and with an additional note of amber.

Notes I do not detect: tobacco, resins and opoponax.

Conclusion
A very pleasant fragrance that is easily wearable and even hints at a gourmand at times. Had hoped that the opening would linger much longer and the dry down retained the freshness of the tangerine. The tangerine blended perfectly with the vanilla and amber. The dry down is unfortunately nothing unique. A missed opportunity. Or should I say: a great first impression that didn't live up to its self.

Fragrance Profile: 7.5
Projection: 7
Sillage: 7
Longevity: 7
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MrLawman 1 year ago 7 1
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
To put the Tuxedo comparison's to bed
Rochas Moustache EDP vs YSL Tuxedo (or the other way around)
Main similarities
- They share the same vanilla vibe
- Both are orientals at their core
- Both have the same cakey vibe

Main differences
- Tuxedo opens fresh and green (particularly violet and bergamot, the coriander is inserted/playing along with the black pepper).
- Tuxedo's violet note gives off an acidic vibe mainly due the rose I believe (the rose in itself is hard to detect; it fades away rather quickly)
- Tuxedo's dry down is a warm patchouli with vanilla in particular
- Tuxedo has a salty vibe from the ambergris (fades away when the scent settles down)

- Moustache doesn't start off green (doesn't have green top notes either) but it does open fresh (mandarine, no bergamot like Tuxedo)
- Cedar is quite prominent in Moustache; Tuxedo on the other hand has no woody vibe (has no woods listed at all)
- Moustache is warmer than Tuxedo, because Moustache is not patchouli heavy (which can smell green and earthy)
- Moustache is less pungent than Tuxedo (same reason)
- Would classify Moustache as a warm spicy and Tuxedo as fresh spicy

Overall performance
- Tuxedo has a more powerful sillage and projection. Also performs longer and better.
- Moustache is a softer scent that sits closer to the skin fairly quickly

Design
- In this regard I prefer the bottle of Tuxedo. Personally I dont like the design of Moustache. Looks kind off out dated

Price
- Moustache (no further explanation needed)

Which one would I choose?
- Moustache
- I like my patchouli's to be pungent, green and powerfull (Psychedelique style), so personally Tuxedo wouldn't fit in my collection.
- The price difference is also too steep for my liking

Will this be the last time a cheap alternative can/will be able to dethrone the more expensive, luxurious trendsetter? Only time will tell...
1 Reply
MrLawman 1 year ago 6
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
3
Scent
Unfinished perfume?
I heard bad stories and had red bad reviews about this scent when going into this one. That had already lowered my expectations drastically.

When I tried the fragrance, I immediately understood the reason why this might be one of the worst offerings from Xerjoff.

The fragrance smells unfinished, chaotic and disjointed. The opening gives you an apple blast but not with the right dose. The cardamom, which is in the mid of this fragrance, later on causes a very unpleasant reaction as well. It seemed to be miss-dosed and not cohesive with every other note used within this fragrance.

With 7 Xerjoff bottles, I am a huge fan of this house. Therefore, it pains me to write a bad review for the first time on this amazing Italian niche house. Truth, however, lasts the longest and thats why we must always stay honest in our reviews. A core value within the frag comm which sometimes gets forgotten...
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MrLawman 1 year ago 3
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Unexpectedly fresh
Naxos may be the perfume, I had been looking forward to the most.

You may find yourself in the same situation when you are watching a number of videos (usually Top 10 compliments or Top 10 fall fragrances) and a particular fragrance comes back over and over again in the video creator's recommendations. That happened with Naxos.

After waiting a long time - why I had waited so long, I still don't know to this day - I ordered a 2 ml sample so I could get my nose on it.

I expected a pleasantly sweet tobacco smell, but nothing was further from the truth. Naxos opens surprisingly fresh with bergamot, lime and an overload of lavender. The citrus notes fade away fairly quickly, but the same cannot be said for the lavender. It takes its place at the heart of this fragrance.

In the middle, the lavender is joined by honey, cinnamon, cashmeran and jasmine. The honey and cinnamon are the most detectable, the cashmeran and jasmine not so much. So the fresh opening is given a sweet twist in the mid of this fragrance.

In the deep dry down of Naxos, the duality of freshness and sweetness is accompanied by a silky soft tobacco note, additionally sweetened by tonka beans and vanilla. The duel between the fresh and the sweet finds its battleground in a tobacco field. Pleasant, but in my opinion, rather unexpected....

Meanwhile, I emptied the sample. I, in the end, decided not to purchase this fragrance. To this day, the combination of freshness and sweetness still does not appeal to me. I find it, sadly, a weird interplay.

For this reason, I cannot speak of a duality, but rather I must speak of a struggle between freshness and sweetness. Unfortunately nothing for me but I can very well see why this fragrance is such a big hit within the perfume community.
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MrLawman 1 year ago 2
6
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent
Hype or worth?
What can be said about this perfume that hasn't been said before?

It is a trendsetter and perhaps the most influential perfume within the entire community. Each of us has contributed to it because, sooner or later, we came into contact with this fragrance, our curiosity was awakened, we tried it out and formulated our own thoughts around Aventus. The choice is usually twofold: hype or worth.

The general consensus seems to be that the value and importance of this fragrance is recognized and acknowledged, but that, in the end, it is mostly a lot of hype. The perfume market is diverse and broad, with countless beautiful fragrances on the horizon. I would recommend you to don't get stuck with this one scent but keep on smelling in order to broaden your horizons.

In doing so, we are also fulfilling our moral obligation to keep learning.

Life long learning, as they say.
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