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The incredible beauty of drydown
Kemi is my new discovery in 2023, my absolute highlight in the animalic oud fragrance range.
Why?
At the beginning, Kemi really does come across as a little stinky. The cowhide note is clearly noticeable. Warm and creamy, the whole cowpat aroma then settles into a bed of sweets, fudge and fruit jam.
These great candy notes in Kemi clearly remind me of those fairground stalls where the pastilles are arranged next to and on top of each other in containers and you help yourself freely with the pointed plastic bag. Syrupy fruit scent. Raspberry, strawberry, yes, even woodruff somehow, plus a certain but clearly perceptible ethereal aroma in the background. I loved these "sweet stores" as a child and Kemi takes me right back to those nostalgic memories.
But now to the "stinky" oud aroma, which is clearly there, but quickly fades as the fragrance progresses. The drydown is one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of smelling. I think it is precisely this animalic-candy-ethereal twist that makes Kemi so wonderful. It just fits together, the animalic is so finely subordinated to the candy aroma that both create an incredibly beautiful symbiosis that makes this fragrance so unique. I have it on my trading desk and my nose is practically glued to it all day. It's addictive to smell it! Incidentally, I was told when I asked that you don't really notice the animal notes in the air as such.
Oh Kemi... So magical, so unique, so fascinating, so beautifully warming, so sweet and candy-like, so wonderfully ethereal and so much nostalgic childhood feeling in one fragrance. And yet you are so wearable and attractive and striking.
Wearability:
Yes, yes and yes! In your free time at any time!
In the office and at business appointments, I would prefer to wear other fragrances due to the slightly stinky-animalic scent.
Longevity:
The fragrance is oily. It easily lasts 10 hours +. 9/10
Sillage: Well perceptible, but never obtrusive. Just right! Possibly a little too stinky for some untrained noses in the first half hour. 8/10
Conclusion:
For me, the Kemi comes up short here in the rating. It is certainly not at home in the world of pleasing easy-to-wear fragrances, certainly a little unfamiliar at first for untrained noses or for lovers of "normal" fragrances, but it is so good that I would like to speak in superlatives. I very rarely give it the full 10 points, but here it is.
To those who test it: waiting until drydown is mandatory!
More courage for Kemi, more love and attention for this masterpiece!
Why?
At the beginning, Kemi really does come across as a little stinky. The cowhide note is clearly noticeable. Warm and creamy, the whole cowpat aroma then settles into a bed of sweets, fudge and fruit jam.
These great candy notes in Kemi clearly remind me of those fairground stalls where the pastilles are arranged next to and on top of each other in containers and you help yourself freely with the pointed plastic bag. Syrupy fruit scent. Raspberry, strawberry, yes, even woodruff somehow, plus a certain but clearly perceptible ethereal aroma in the background. I loved these "sweet stores" as a child and Kemi takes me right back to those nostalgic memories.
But now to the "stinky" oud aroma, which is clearly there, but quickly fades as the fragrance progresses. The drydown is one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of smelling. I think it is precisely this animalic-candy-ethereal twist that makes Kemi so wonderful. It just fits together, the animalic is so finely subordinated to the candy aroma that both create an incredibly beautiful symbiosis that makes this fragrance so unique. I have it on my trading desk and my nose is practically glued to it all day. It's addictive to smell it! Incidentally, I was told when I asked that you don't really notice the animal notes in the air as such.
Oh Kemi... So magical, so unique, so fascinating, so beautifully warming, so sweet and candy-like, so wonderfully ethereal and so much nostalgic childhood feeling in one fragrance. And yet you are so wearable and attractive and striking.
Wearability:
Yes, yes and yes! In your free time at any time!
In the office and at business appointments, I would prefer to wear other fragrances due to the slightly stinky-animalic scent.
Longevity:
The fragrance is oily. It easily lasts 10 hours +. 9/10
Sillage: Well perceptible, but never obtrusive. Just right! Possibly a little too stinky for some untrained noses in the first half hour. 8/10
Conclusion:
For me, the Kemi comes up short here in the rating. It is certainly not at home in the world of pleasing easy-to-wear fragrances, certainly a little unfamiliar at first for untrained noses or for lovers of "normal" fragrances, but it is so good that I would like to speak in superlatives. I very rarely give it the full 10 points, but here it is.
To those who test it: waiting until drydown is mandatory!
More courage for Kemi, more love and attention for this masterpiece!
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The not so sweet softcake tobacco symbiosis
Autumn - the days are getting cooler, the leaves more colorful and the scents heavier and sweeter. A successful opportunity to take a closer look at Moonlight.
Pana Dora. A fairly new, Swedish fragrance house so that until now times found mention here and there, but in the letzen Zeit but more often is called.
Let's just start with the bottle:
Somehow, the creative minds of Pana Dora seem to have found pleasure in Penhaligon's portrait series. Whether the whole thing is then still really creative, it remains to be seen. The flacon, however, appears visually absolutely high-quality, is massive and beautiful. The sprayer is top, but spits out so much fragrance that you have the feeling that the bottle empties with each "pfffft" by a quarter. Be it so.
Flacon (with a lot of good will):
8/10
The fragrance:
In the previous statements about this fragrance, I often read about "extreme sweetness".
I can absolutely not confirm. Yes, the fragrance is already rather sweet, but who knows the box office hits of Parfums de Marly or a Xerjoff Torino22, who knows what is really extremely sweet.
That is Moonlight namely absolutely not. The comparison with Torino lags eh - who the hell actually started it? The two fragrances really do not have much in common.
Moonlight is a fragrance that reminds me a bit of a softcake. In the opening undoubtedly fruit with chocolate. In the course it then becomes increasingly tart, the initial sweetness disappears and makes way for tart tobacco, which I perceive after about 2 hours more and more clearly.
A Parfumo, which I absolutely appreciate said to me: Gourmand, but not too edible. (Thanks O.) ;)
And exactly that hits the nail on the head:
The scent is incredibly complex and transforms: from a slightly sweet softcake to a high-end cigarillo. The fragrance phase in which these two components enter into symbiosis is terrific and lasts a long time.
Durability & Sillage:
The sillage is well perceptible but acts mildly on the environment. 2 splashes too much forgives you "Moonlight" without problems. It is not a strong gourmand but also no lukewarm breeze. Perfect for all situations and also for the office. The shelf life amounts to a good 8 hours, the fragrance is then rather close to the skin.
H/S:
7/8
Conclusion:
Moonlight does differently what many do not like about Gourmands. It does not seem penetrating and does not radiate extreme sweetness. As I write this, I still wonder if my olfactory cells are now verganymedet, or the other Schreiberlinge simply never had a really sweet fragrance before the nose.
So be it!
Great all-rounder gourmand. Makes mood, radiates cheerfulness and fits equally well to men or ladies. Especially as a winter fragrance for work just super suitable.
Fragrance total:
8.5/10
Pana Dora. A fairly new, Swedish fragrance house so that until now times found mention here and there, but in the letzen Zeit but more often is called.
Let's just start with the bottle:
Somehow, the creative minds of Pana Dora seem to have found pleasure in Penhaligon's portrait series. Whether the whole thing is then still really creative, it remains to be seen. The flacon, however, appears visually absolutely high-quality, is massive and beautiful. The sprayer is top, but spits out so much fragrance that you have the feeling that the bottle empties with each "pfffft" by a quarter. Be it so.
Flacon (with a lot of good will):
8/10
The fragrance:
In the previous statements about this fragrance, I often read about "extreme sweetness".
I can absolutely not confirm. Yes, the fragrance is already rather sweet, but who knows the box office hits of Parfums de Marly or a Xerjoff Torino22, who knows what is really extremely sweet.
That is Moonlight namely absolutely not. The comparison with Torino lags eh - who the hell actually started it? The two fragrances really do not have much in common.
Moonlight is a fragrance that reminds me a bit of a softcake. In the opening undoubtedly fruit with chocolate. In the course it then becomes increasingly tart, the initial sweetness disappears and makes way for tart tobacco, which I perceive after about 2 hours more and more clearly.
A Parfumo, which I absolutely appreciate said to me: Gourmand, but not too edible. (Thanks O.) ;)
And exactly that hits the nail on the head:
The scent is incredibly complex and transforms: from a slightly sweet softcake to a high-end cigarillo. The fragrance phase in which these two components enter into symbiosis is terrific and lasts a long time.
Durability & Sillage:
The sillage is well perceptible but acts mildly on the environment. 2 splashes too much forgives you "Moonlight" without problems. It is not a strong gourmand but also no lukewarm breeze. Perfect for all situations and also for the office. The shelf life amounts to a good 8 hours, the fragrance is then rather close to the skin.
H/S:
7/8
Conclusion:
Moonlight does differently what many do not like about Gourmands. It does not seem penetrating and does not radiate extreme sweetness. As I write this, I still wonder if my olfactory cells are now verganymedet, or the other Schreiberlinge simply never had a really sweet fragrance before the nose.
So be it!
Great all-rounder gourmand. Makes mood, radiates cheerfulness and fits equally well to men or ladies. Especially as a winter fragrance for work just super suitable.
Fragrance total:
8.5/10
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Show respect for him!
Ice-cold eyes stare at you. Not a blink is stirring. You want to avoid his gaze, but you can't. He's so attractive. He makes you dependent. He doesn't have to please you, you want to please him. He's complacent, giving you orders that don't always make you feel good - you carry them out anyway. You are not attracted to him because he is particularly attractive. You are attracted to him because he is powerful. You're attracted to him because he's borderline arrogant. He is the boss who is above it all.
Show respect for Him!
-
AdP Oud is a fragrance that brings the solution to difficult conflict conversations. Got a problem with someone? Settle it in person and wear this fragrance. I have yet to know a scent that triggers such an association of, excuse me, "bossiness" in me.
A not at all peasant, noble oud note that is courted by a hint of citrus. Finally, no oud fragrance that seems oriental, but simply clean, cool and powerful does what it should:
Trigger the feeling of superiority in the wearer, while smelling more than just high quality. The durability is clearly perceptibly strong with 7 hours, the sillage is just in the first 2 hours very boozy.
Surely this fragrance does not really fit casual clothes. Noble it must be. The President of this world in a tailored suit. But what goes together in this world? I for one enjoy it mostly for me, unless there is something to clarify ;).
____
Even if the one or the other Parfumo my description of iciness, power and arrogance could rather deter, I can only warmest recommend this fragrance to test, even if he is certainly not an Allday.
Fragrances trigger images, but if an image is so grandiose and aesthetically drawn as it draws this fragrance, why should it always be friendly images? Arrogance can be attractive!
8.5/10
Show respect for Him!
-
AdP Oud is a fragrance that brings the solution to difficult conflict conversations. Got a problem with someone? Settle it in person and wear this fragrance. I have yet to know a scent that triggers such an association of, excuse me, "bossiness" in me.
A not at all peasant, noble oud note that is courted by a hint of citrus. Finally, no oud fragrance that seems oriental, but simply clean, cool and powerful does what it should:
Trigger the feeling of superiority in the wearer, while smelling more than just high quality. The durability is clearly perceptibly strong with 7 hours, the sillage is just in the first 2 hours very boozy.
Surely this fragrance does not really fit casual clothes. Noble it must be. The President of this world in a tailored suit. But what goes together in this world? I for one enjoy it mostly for me, unless there is something to clarify ;).
____
Even if the one or the other Parfumo my description of iciness, power and arrogance could rather deter, I can only warmest recommend this fragrance to test, even if he is certainly not an Allday.
Fragrances trigger images, but if an image is so grandiose and aesthetically drawn as it draws this fragrance, why should it always be friendly images? Arrogance can be attractive!
8.5/10
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The Oud Surprise.
First of all: I have long thought about whether I should order this fragrance. I know the Oudh shower foam from Rituals and use it very much. But buy a fragrance from Rituals? Well, I was rather reluctant. After all, these bodyshops tend to thrive on advertising and a certain trend. Can a premium fragrance jump out? Well - I'm currently looking for nice oud fragrances and the price is first completely in order. I did not expect much at first.
So ordered yet.
When spraying on I was then surprised the first time. Wow, great opening! Immediately I notice an oud note, which does not immediately remind of a cowshed. I'm sure no Profinase, but have but in the cheap segment always rather these farm associations in Ouddüften smelled. For me rather deterrent. (Whereby this fragrance is sooo cheap garnicht).
Unmistakable also the leather note, which joins behind the oud and together with the pleasant, but perceptible fresh tobacco for me a great symbiosis. Patchouli I hardly perceive, the bergamot keeps hidden, is slightly visible rather in the background, but triggers a feeling of freshness in the opening.
I for my part still perceive a slight note of cinnamon, but it is not listed in the pyramid.
Over time, the fragrance loses its freshness and cinnamon-tobacco spice and a pleasant no longer quite oriental, dark but unspectacular oud-leather mixture is in the drydown long guest on the skin.
This fragrance smells really high-quality oriental, although it does not reinvent the wheel. The fragrance radiates really well over about 5 hours, the base note is after 10 hours still skin close to perceive.
I am glad to have ordered this fragrance. For Oud beginners a clear recommendation, even if you perceive the mixture and the basic tone certainly in some other oriental Oud perfumes.
8 / 10
So ordered yet.
When spraying on I was then surprised the first time. Wow, great opening! Immediately I notice an oud note, which does not immediately remind of a cowshed. I'm sure no Profinase, but have but in the cheap segment always rather these farm associations in Ouddüften smelled. For me rather deterrent. (Whereby this fragrance is sooo cheap garnicht).
Unmistakable also the leather note, which joins behind the oud and together with the pleasant, but perceptible fresh tobacco for me a great symbiosis. Patchouli I hardly perceive, the bergamot keeps hidden, is slightly visible rather in the background, but triggers a feeling of freshness in the opening.
I for my part still perceive a slight note of cinnamon, but it is not listed in the pyramid.
Over time, the fragrance loses its freshness and cinnamon-tobacco spice and a pleasant no longer quite oriental, dark but unspectacular oud-leather mixture is in the drydown long guest on the skin.
This fragrance smells really high-quality oriental, although it does not reinvent the wheel. The fragrance radiates really well over about 5 hours, the base note is after 10 hours still skin close to perceive.
I am glad to have ordered this fragrance. For Oud beginners a clear recommendation, even if you perceive the mixture and the basic tone certainly in some other oriental Oud perfumes.
8 / 10
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The Prada who didn't want to be one
Prada Luna Rossa - A designer perfume line that for me yet positively stands out between all the designers. Ober the classic Luna Rossa or the (even better) Luna Rossa Black. All really good fragrances. With the Olfactories line, Prada has also crowned its fragrance assortment. I could test so far so some and since then it means for me consistently quality and above all also a certain Uniqueness, if Prada stands on the flacon.
So I was looking forward to the sample of the Luna Rossa Ocean.
Hardly sprayed on, set but quite quickly the disappointment. Have they perhaps confused the sample? Probably not.
Imagine the fragrance so: You go to the local drugstore, grab any men's shaving lotion (Let's go with the cheaper one) and... Well, period.
Or better yet. Invite your buddy's buddy you don't know to your birthday. You get a scent as a gift. Unfortunately, that's exactly what this little water smells like: Petty, impersonal, utterly interchangeable and boring.
I would like to start by no means a Verriss, but I am but very strongly disappointed that Prada offers such a fragrance here, which smells like every 2nd men's fragrance. Unfortunately, it does not need in this world another 0815 shaving water shower gel fragrance which is just massively advertised there. Since also the new special Synthetische formula helps nothing.
Stands Prada on it - but this one wanted to be certainly none. Too bad. My wife commented on this fragrance then by the way unasked with: Nee, go you shower?
Too bad.
So I was looking forward to the sample of the Luna Rossa Ocean.
Hardly sprayed on, set but quite quickly the disappointment. Have they perhaps confused the sample? Probably not.
Imagine the fragrance so: You go to the local drugstore, grab any men's shaving lotion (Let's go with the cheaper one) and... Well, period.
Or better yet. Invite your buddy's buddy you don't know to your birthday. You get a scent as a gift. Unfortunately, that's exactly what this little water smells like: Petty, impersonal, utterly interchangeable and boring.
I would like to start by no means a Verriss, but I am but very strongly disappointed that Prada offers such a fragrance here, which smells like every 2nd men's fragrance. Unfortunately, it does not need in this world another 0815 shaving water shower gel fragrance which is just massively advertised there. Since also the new special Synthetische formula helps nothing.
Stands Prada on it - but this one wanted to be certainly none. Too bad. My wife commented on this fragrance then by the way unasked with: Nee, go you shower?
Too bad.
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