NikEy

A year ago, I would never have dared to try a women's scent just like that. Especially not from one of the perfume houses par excellence. Today, I have reached a point where the external classification of which gender a fragrance or perfume is supposed to fit to is hardly important anymore. And so lately one or the other fragrance has crept into my collection, which was actually designed for the ladies.

Why I chose Coco as the fragrance from my sample collection today, on one of the warmest summer days and evenings, is rather a stroke of luck. A spontaneous intuition overnight, supported by many great comments and me not sure why the fragrance classification here refers to perfume almost only to autumn/winter - I don't remember Coco from previous tests. And I'm also surprised that hardly anyone here has pointed out how great the Chanel wears in summer!

No sooner said than done. Coco opens with such a beautiful juicy peach as I have rarely smelled before. Though not listed in the pyramid, this fruit association seems to be established by the fresh notes and the flowers. On my skin, the scent hardly seems sweet, little powdery and has only a very, very slender ambergris. On the contrary, the peach is quickly joined by a fantastic, sandy jasmine, which gives the fragrance an accord like sun-tanned, warm skin. More and more, the delicately spicy nuances come to the fore, even if peach remains present until the fragrance disappears. Patchouli in the base is the earliest I can identify, of sweet or opulent ambry, cinnamon or tonka, Coco is - as I said - for me far away.

And so fruity, flowery and spicy Coco carries me through the sun in this weather. Seems absolutely dry and never overloaded, carries me into the sunset to become one with the orange clouds, which in this mood perfectly reflect the scent of coco.

So once again, a women's scent lands on my wish list. And please: a little appeal to all owners: let Coco on your tanned, sun-tanned skin! Try out what heat does to this scent jewel and how it makes the fruit shine and the jasmine blossoms dry
And to the gentlemen: if you are looking for a fruity and spicy fragrance, you will find more than enough here. Just don't tell anyone you're wearing the big Chanel...

It's coming to an end. And today is - since a long time again - a Pritzkoleit, which I got from a very dear person here on Parfumo to the sample! If you don't know the perfumer, be warned that most of his fragrances are not for the faint of heart. Especially not for those who are not a friend of animal scents.

Sprayed on and, HEUA, YES! I smell like a goat's ass. Fuck yeah! It's authentic. Sea Salt Tar is definitely the most unusual combination of aquatic life I've ever had the pleasure of testing. And here we don't have aquatics in the usual sense, rather a fresh salt note seems to be present in the fragrance, which is very ethereal. Not at all creamy or melon. But what makes the fragrance really extraordinary - besides this really pleasant saltiness - is the smoky animalism. I would definitely blindly suspect civet, beaver horny, costus and musk in this fragrance. According to the pyramid we are only dealing with the latter, but I can't confirm that. And if you read the Pritzkoleit website attentively, the term MuskS(!), which is written in the original pyramid, tells you that there are certainly several musk species hidden here (to which one also counts civet, castoreum, etc.). The full broadside of animal and vegetable animalism united. A slight sourness of spices and currant can be found, where however the flowers have stayed Achja, the tar as a smoky leathery attidüte also plays a clearly supporting role, which makes the fragrance appear dry, almost slim and probably supports the animalism in the end.

This Pritzkoleit is always exciting to test. But I wouldn't know a situation where I could wear it. Already after my 1/4 sprayer from a small 2ml sample, it sounds from the other corner of the apartment, 2 rooms away, that you can smell the scent properly. So the explosive power and sillage is definitely atomic here! At least some perfumos should have fun with that.

To conclude my series of comments on the aquatic environment, I would like to take a leap into the present. Unfortunately, at the time of the test, I did not have a sample of Tirrenico at my disposal, although I had already become aware of this fragrance through a one-time test in a perfumery. At the same time - apart from Sel Marin - no other aquat has remained in my memory to this day, that of Profumi del Forte. None is more authentic for me - apart from Sel Marin - as far as the true event of the sea is concerned.

Tirrenico has an uncanny coolness and clarity. With the first sprayer you are washed directly to a cold, even icy sea, full of life, but also full of morbid memories. As one of the few fragrances in this category, the aquatic sensation here is mainly caused by fennel, a cool, herbaceous and aniseed-like, yet very naturalistic experience. But Tirrenico is so much more. The drawn picture could never be created by the fennel alone. Only algae, which give a slightly fishy impression, and decaying driftwood make the sea complete.

Perhaps this fragrance - even more than Sel Marin - is true perfume ART. And perhaps this fragrance is the most authentic and at the same time the most artistic representation of the marine theme. Cold Baltic Sea, harbour basin, brackish water, rotting algae, Arctic Ocean .......... all these impressions fit and they all make me like Tirrenico so much.

Costarella begins with tangy citrus fruits, pepper, maritime chords and clean musk. Azure blue, absolutely clear water in its purest freshness. Picture book holiday, glossy magazine and holiday dreams. It quickly becomes clear that the citric top note is only a brief sparkle in the course of the song. After only a short time the glossy magazine is put aside and soon it becomes clear: there really is beach and sea!

Sand chord, surprisingly well met, the fragrance is not really dry, but noticeably mineral. A lady with a pure white beach hat walks by, the musk makes for diffusion, but no longer pushes itself into the foreground. It becomes salty. Not like the algal-salty smell of the sea, more like dried up salt on tanned skin. Pleasantly white only with a very soft Ambroxan base cream! Delicate dark green notes in the background add a rather rough edge. And if it weren't for the salt and a kind of (drifting) wood that irrevocably focuses on the sea, the grey-green-mineral scent could make you think of cool, stony mountain lakes.

Carner's scent is one of the most pleasing of my test series. Not only because it is neither sweet nor significantly creamy, but also because it provides a view that goes beyond the sea. It captures the beach and stone, which could even interpret a different landscape.
Sillage and durability are pleasantly summery, although they are far from lasting a whole day.

Vetiver des Sables is not a fragrance that captures the authentic smell of the sea, but rather, for me, it olofactorily represents the abstract image of jumping into cold seawater. The moment of immersion, actually much too cold, but without being able to do anything about it, one is surrounded by cold water, refreshed and kissed awake.

There is no course in the classical sense, and the pyramid of scents is of little help in describing it. Constantly perceptible is a very cool, almost icy cold synthetic freshness. Similarly well done as for example in nomenclature "shi_so". This freshness, here clearly underscored with sea accents and salt, has a slightly metallic effect - especially at the beginning. I would attribute the almost rusty impression that lasts for a longer time to a straw flower. Diffuse wood notes from ISO (a material I otherwise have little use for) are very well integrated in the background. Increasingly, vetiver blends into this feeling of jumping into the cool wet. Strangely fresh green it shows a new facet with the cool synthetic. A vetiver sea water ice on the style. Impressive!

The base becomes softer. Clear musky notes give warmth, but the fresh impression remains.
So far, I must say, my expectations of Montale have been rather low. Especially because of the unmanageable Aoud-Collection from which I have never liked anybody. But with this fresh scent, they surprised me. The durability is very good, the Sillage is clearly perceptible for a long time. I don't see a similarity to Fougere Marine. If you like well-made synthetics, you should really test it here!