NuiWhakakore
Reviews
Filter & sort
NuiWhakakore
Short-term metamorphosis
... it stares at me, black and heavy, for hours, days, weeks already, I don't know, time seems to stand still around it, it radiates something gloomy, I suspect that if I touch it, it will swallow me up, pull me down into a dark void, just as the room lies in shadows, the only bright thing is the white paper on the roller and even that is more yellowed than radiant and gives off the smell of spicy flowers, or it leaks in from the souq, it is confusing, as friendly as if it wanted to mock me in my darkness, it lays itself over me, narcotic and heavy, trying to lure me, to crush me. ..
The scratching of bugs. They crawl right over the eardrum. Like a scraping beat. Sweat on my forehead. Feel the keys. They are warm and leather. Pulsing like a living thing. The fingers merge with the machine. Become one with it. Dark thoughts fill the mind, flow out in a gush of dirty earth. No control. Only the perpetual hammering of the keys.
...I jolt up, it has become dark and the machine is still staring at me, black and heavy, steaming now, it stands before me and the room is filled with the smell of hot metal, like an animal a sheet of paper lies on the leather roller, like a tongue, only now written on, it demands attention, so I pull it out and put it in the folder with the others, with the last of my strength, then it is enough for today, even if the thoughts are still racing and sleep is once again not in sight…
-------------------
Type Writer is one of those fragrances that create images, at least for me. That in itself is almost the highest compliment, but I could even imagine wearing it, on (very) special occasions at least. But first things first...
It starts sweet, with a very lush, slightly narcotic tuberose, though it doesn't remind me of bubblegum here as much as in the same brand's Black Tar. That's due to the aldhydes, which bring quite a spicy note to it. Very dry, woody notes are also apparent. A slight association to paper can definitely be fantasized into it. Dark resin and light smoke make themselves felt, though it is much less smoky than anticipated. It is rather a spicy vapor.
As it progresses it becomes more leathery and resinous, somewhat dirty and also slightly earthy. The animalic notes increase as well, complementing the florals very well. Sometimes even a slightly fresh cedar flashes through. At the same time, Type Writer is always quite gentle. Only after 4-5 hours does it get a bit harsher. There is a feeling of hot metal and oil. This is how it slowly fades out.
For me, a very special fragrance, exciting and demanding, but also rewarding if you get involved and quite wearable, although not too often. I do not think, it is too dark, it is rather a game of light (at least twilight) and shadow. I can understand the comparisons to Black Tar, if only because of the tuberose. However, Type Writer is much softer in comparison and it also lacks the thick tar smoke, which of course I welcome.
Thanks to Gandix for tutoring me in automatic writing!
Soundtrak: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trbvx1U6Ry8
The scratching of bugs. They crawl right over the eardrum. Like a scraping beat. Sweat on my forehead. Feel the keys. They are warm and leather. Pulsing like a living thing. The fingers merge with the machine. Become one with it. Dark thoughts fill the mind, flow out in a gush of dirty earth. No control. Only the perpetual hammering of the keys.
...I jolt up, it has become dark and the machine is still staring at me, black and heavy, steaming now, it stands before me and the room is filled with the smell of hot metal, like an animal a sheet of paper lies on the leather roller, like a tongue, only now written on, it demands attention, so I pull it out and put it in the folder with the others, with the last of my strength, then it is enough for today, even if the thoughts are still racing and sleep is once again not in sight…
-------------------
Type Writer is one of those fragrances that create images, at least for me. That in itself is almost the highest compliment, but I could even imagine wearing it, on (very) special occasions at least. But first things first...
It starts sweet, with a very lush, slightly narcotic tuberose, though it doesn't remind me of bubblegum here as much as in the same brand's Black Tar. That's due to the aldhydes, which bring quite a spicy note to it. Very dry, woody notes are also apparent. A slight association to paper can definitely be fantasized into it. Dark resin and light smoke make themselves felt, though it is much less smoky than anticipated. It is rather a spicy vapor.
As it progresses it becomes more leathery and resinous, somewhat dirty and also slightly earthy. The animalic notes increase as well, complementing the florals very well. Sometimes even a slightly fresh cedar flashes through. At the same time, Type Writer is always quite gentle. Only after 4-5 hours does it get a bit harsher. There is a feeling of hot metal and oil. This is how it slowly fades out.
For me, a very special fragrance, exciting and demanding, but also rewarding if you get involved and quite wearable, although not too often. I do not think, it is too dark, it is rather a game of light (at least twilight) and shadow. I can understand the comparisons to Black Tar, if only because of the tuberose. However, Type Writer is much softer in comparison and it also lacks the thick tar smoke, which of course I welcome.
Thanks to Gandix for tutoring me in automatic writing!
Soundtrak: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trbvx1U6Ry8
Shawn's Orange Grove
It's a sunny day. Just like any other day. Shawn knows that as he walks into his orange grove. There's no great art in predicting that in Southern California. The air is still pleasant this early in the morning. Not cool, exactly, but still pleasant. The smell of the not quite ripe fruit fills the air. Still a bit green and slightly bitter, somewhat damp, but already hinting at the sweetness that the sunshine will bring.
The flowers under the trees bloom shyly and timidly. Instead, the plump currant buds fill the air with their fresh green scent. Shawn touches one and it instantly bursts open, spraying herbaceous chamomile sparks. It may sound unusual, but that's exactly the kind of day it is.
The sun rises higher and pierces everything. The world turns to fruit. Fresh and spicy, it makes you forget the heat of the day. Those are always the best hours for Shawn. Evening will bring the wind from the east, following the mountain flanks downward, charged with the smell of the dry cedars and their spicy resin and a hint of smoke, the first harbingers of the summer fires.
And again a day comes to an end, like the previous ones and also like the following ones and yet never quite the same and one day the fruits will be ripe and it will be another good harvest.
-----------------
Shawn Maher himself writes about Sun Soaked that he wanted to create a fragrance so saturated with the sun that it overflows with sunshine. He certainly succeeded in doing that. Further, he writes that he focused on neroli in the fragrance. I feel a little differently about that, but in order.
Sun Soaked starts first of all with a tart lemon. Very fresh and also relatively bitter. It is probably the combination of bitter orange and neroli that plays a trick on me here. At the same time, there is also a dark green, herbaceous note. After 5 minutes, the bitter tones are mostly gone and slightly floral notes become apparent. Now neroli also pushes forward in a moderately harsh, slightly green form in the perception, but does not dominate the fragrance at all. It also becomes increasingly fruity, perhaps due to the currant bud, though I don't detect any currants. I couldn't tell what that fruit is now either. A pleasant citrus mix. The heart then stays that way for now, fresh fruity with green spicy notes.
After about 1.5 hours, the base makes itself felt. Dry wood, where I do not recognize the cedar, and resinous amber. Fruity notes are first still recognizable, but fade visibly. In the further course (so after 3 hours), the amber becomes stronger, the fragrance thus warmer, but not noticeably sweeter. Smoke is only minimally perceptible at first, but becomes more and more distinct as time goes on, until a pleasant mix of dry wood, sweetish resin and a bit of smoke remains at the end. The Southern California day lasts 7 to 8 hours, with moderate silage.
I don't usually like overly fruity scents. Here, though, I think the blend of fresh and fruity with the slightly tart green notes is very well done. The florals at the beginning do not play a big role and the dry-woody and unsweet-resinous, slightly smoky base is a dream.
The flowers under the trees bloom shyly and timidly. Instead, the plump currant buds fill the air with their fresh green scent. Shawn touches one and it instantly bursts open, spraying herbaceous chamomile sparks. It may sound unusual, but that's exactly the kind of day it is.
The sun rises higher and pierces everything. The world turns to fruit. Fresh and spicy, it makes you forget the heat of the day. Those are always the best hours for Shawn. Evening will bring the wind from the east, following the mountain flanks downward, charged with the smell of the dry cedars and their spicy resin and a hint of smoke, the first harbingers of the summer fires.
And again a day comes to an end, like the previous ones and also like the following ones and yet never quite the same and one day the fruits will be ripe and it will be another good harvest.
-----------------
Shawn Maher himself writes about Sun Soaked that he wanted to create a fragrance so saturated with the sun that it overflows with sunshine. He certainly succeeded in doing that. Further, he writes that he focused on neroli in the fragrance. I feel a little differently about that, but in order.
Sun Soaked starts first of all with a tart lemon. Very fresh and also relatively bitter. It is probably the combination of bitter orange and neroli that plays a trick on me here. At the same time, there is also a dark green, herbaceous note. After 5 minutes, the bitter tones are mostly gone and slightly floral notes become apparent. Now neroli also pushes forward in a moderately harsh, slightly green form in the perception, but does not dominate the fragrance at all. It also becomes increasingly fruity, perhaps due to the currant bud, though I don't detect any currants. I couldn't tell what that fruit is now either. A pleasant citrus mix. The heart then stays that way for now, fresh fruity with green spicy notes.
After about 1.5 hours, the base makes itself felt. Dry wood, where I do not recognize the cedar, and resinous amber. Fruity notes are first still recognizable, but fade visibly. In the further course (so after 3 hours), the amber becomes stronger, the fragrance thus warmer, but not noticeably sweeter. Smoke is only minimally perceptible at first, but becomes more and more distinct as time goes on, until a pleasant mix of dry wood, sweetish resin and a bit of smoke remains at the end. The Southern California day lasts 7 to 8 hours, with moderate silage.
I don't usually like overly fruity scents. Here, though, I think the blend of fresh and fruity with the slightly tart green notes is very well done. The florals at the beginning do not play a big role and the dry-woody and unsweet-resinous, slightly smoky base is a dream.
The party is over
Flashes of light in all colors. Hot bodies close together. The air is sticky and sweet. Rotting flowers and mold in the corners. It's damp in here, the walls, the ceilings, everything. Sweat condensing. If it were always like this here, stalactites might form in a few million years. It is loud, the band gives everything. Basses boom, pressure on the chest, as if they want to set the rhythm for the heart. The crowd surges, like one big animal. The leather sticks to the skin. Ecstasy.
On the way to the toilet. Great, it's all full. No way through here. What kind of door is that? Never noticed it before, never mind, it's open. It must be a toilet, or at least it smells like one. The door falls heavily into the lock and suddenly there is silence. The bass is just a distant rumble.
The lighting is strange. The light seems to come directly out of the walls. Thin threads stretch across the walls, a faintly glowing mycelium. Bioluminescence. Mushrooms sprout out of the corners. Was the champagne bad, or did someone spike it? No, it can't be, the screw cap cracked when it was opened, for sure. Are you sure?
Closer to the walls. The curious finger breaks through the surface. Damp earth. Black under the nail. Flowers, lovely and sweet, sprout from the hole. The ground turns to leather. Warm to the touch. It pulses. A breeze like a breath. The room a living organism. The heart of an animal.
Rush out, party on!
-------------------
For those who missed such parties (even without a trip) in the past, or for those who long for them, this fragrance is highly recommended!
Nekro Dellamorte starts quite sweet-synthetic and initially quite undefined. Only after a few minutes a floral note peels out. Indolic jasmine, not my favorite. And a sense of mold in the corners. The whole thing also becomes quite animalic, not yet in the sense of an animal, but rather the animalic smell of people. Many people close together. Hard to imagine at the moment.
The urine note is then also very clearly recognizable, as in an old train station toilet and not at a McClean, or as in a filthy club. In addition, there is something sour, which reminds me of stale champagne or wine. It's not sparklng any more and have not been for a long time. It wasn't the most expensive brand anyway. The mushrooms are more a notion, but damp earth I can clearly recognize.
So far, so bad. With time, however, the scent actually becomes softer and more gentle. Hardly urine anymore. Instead a little animalic leather and flowers. The animalic here is no longer human, but rather beastly. I could well imagine that civet is involved here. And rarely have I been so pleased with a few flowers, they do make the scent more approachable and almost pleasant. Durability and silage are, as often with such things, very good. Why, actually?
Despite a conciliatory base, this is not a perfume for me, but a concept. As such, quite successful, but not really wearable.
Translated from my original german review, I hope it‘s not too bad!
On the way to the toilet. Great, it's all full. No way through here. What kind of door is that? Never noticed it before, never mind, it's open. It must be a toilet, or at least it smells like one. The door falls heavily into the lock and suddenly there is silence. The bass is just a distant rumble.
The lighting is strange. The light seems to come directly out of the walls. Thin threads stretch across the walls, a faintly glowing mycelium. Bioluminescence. Mushrooms sprout out of the corners. Was the champagne bad, or did someone spike it? No, it can't be, the screw cap cracked when it was opened, for sure. Are you sure?
Closer to the walls. The curious finger breaks through the surface. Damp earth. Black under the nail. Flowers, lovely and sweet, sprout from the hole. The ground turns to leather. Warm to the touch. It pulses. A breeze like a breath. The room a living organism. The heart of an animal.
Rush out, party on!
-------------------
For those who missed such parties (even without a trip) in the past, or for those who long for them, this fragrance is highly recommended!
Nekro Dellamorte starts quite sweet-synthetic and initially quite undefined. Only after a few minutes a floral note peels out. Indolic jasmine, not my favorite. And a sense of mold in the corners. The whole thing also becomes quite animalic, not yet in the sense of an animal, but rather the animalic smell of people. Many people close together. Hard to imagine at the moment.
The urine note is then also very clearly recognizable, as in an old train station toilet and not at a McClean, or as in a filthy club. In addition, there is something sour, which reminds me of stale champagne or wine. It's not sparklng any more and have not been for a long time. It wasn't the most expensive brand anyway. The mushrooms are more a notion, but damp earth I can clearly recognize.
So far, so bad. With time, however, the scent actually becomes softer and more gentle. Hardly urine anymore. Instead a little animalic leather and flowers. The animalic here is no longer human, but rather beastly. I could well imagine that civet is involved here. And rarely have I been so pleased with a few flowers, they do make the scent more approachable and almost pleasant. Durability and silage are, as often with such things, very good. Why, actually?
Despite a conciliatory base, this is not a perfume for me, but a concept. As such, quite successful, but not really wearable.
Translated from my original german review, I hope it‘s not too bad!
Translated
Show original
Strange fruits
The room is dark, the drinks served, you lean back relaxed in the soft leather chairs and wait for the performance to begin. The stage curtain is still closed, the visible part of the stage a sea of flowers. Then the curtain opens, the first bars of music fill the room, the plaintive sound of a trumpet. She then stands behind the microphone in the spotlight, her galbanum green sequined dress glistening kindly in the light. Then she sings her song and everyone is captivated by her voice, dark and bright at the same time. Soft and breaking with sorrow, she sings of the animal in man down there in the south. No one will ever forget this moment. Again and again she will sing this song and touch the people and remind them of what was and give hope for what can be and still nothing will change down there in the south, not for decades, everything infinitely slow, but then maybe one day far away...
-----------------------
Shawn Maher himself writes about Tempo Rubato it is a classical composition and I agree with him.
It starts with spicy and slightly sweet florals and light green galbanum. I detect jasmine and some rose. The rest, as is often the case, is indecipherable to me. Fruity notes, on the other hand, I don't detect. The leather is also immediately present, rather clean, with a slightly animalic note, freshly treated with leather polish.
Only after an hour, some fruit comes in with and that with me only in the background, there I have fortunately a different perception than Chizza. Apricot with some orange blossom I mean to recognize. It stays like this for quite a long time before some iris butter is added minimally and musk creams a bit. The musk takes over in the further course more and more the upper hand, but does not interfere, because the fragrance at this point is only very close to the skin perceptible.
For me, Tempo Rubato is a very classic floral-leather scent. As such, well done, with a pretty good durability (8+ hours), however, I can then also take a real classic, especially since it is priced far too high in my opinion (180$ / 50ml).
Soundtrack: Stange Fruit - Billie Holiday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Web007rzSOI
-----------------------
Shawn Maher himself writes about Tempo Rubato it is a classical composition and I agree with him.
It starts with spicy and slightly sweet florals and light green galbanum. I detect jasmine and some rose. The rest, as is often the case, is indecipherable to me. Fruity notes, on the other hand, I don't detect. The leather is also immediately present, rather clean, with a slightly animalic note, freshly treated with leather polish.
Only after an hour, some fruit comes in with and that with me only in the background, there I have fortunately a different perception than Chizza. Apricot with some orange blossom I mean to recognize. It stays like this for quite a long time before some iris butter is added minimally and musk creams a bit. The musk takes over in the further course more and more the upper hand, but does not interfere, because the fragrance at this point is only very close to the skin perceptible.
For me, Tempo Rubato is a very classic floral-leather scent. As such, well done, with a pretty good durability (8+ hours), however, I can then also take a real classic, especially since it is priced far too high in my opinion (180$ / 50ml).
Soundtrack: Stange Fruit - Billie Holiday
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Web007rzSOI
23 Comments
Translated
Show original
A sparse forest
Behind my house, right at the edge of the garden, a path begins. When the hustle and bustle of the day becomes too much for me again, I follow it and after just a few minutes the noise of the street and life is forgotten. Calm and silence returns.
I go a little further and stand in the pine grove. The grove is still very young, the trees still small. Everything is light and the sun shines almost unhindered through the fine branches. Nature is just awakening, it is spring, still cool but no longer cold. The first tender green sprouts. Small leaves, lavender, the juniper bush. The air is filled with their sweet-spicy scent.
A little further down the path and I come to the clearing. It is circular, as if drawn with a compass. In its center stands the great iris. I sit down in the moss and look at the powdery soft light leaning against its trunk. Here I linger and just do nothing...
--------------------
Orris Forrest reminds me of spring. Tender green sprouts, it's still cool but already pleasant. What does not quite fit into the picture, is a slightly fruity note, which I perceive especially at the beginning. No idea where it comes from, fig leaf with acacia perhaps. More noticeable are the green notes, led by juniper and also some pepper. Later, lavender joins in and a dry pine that also brings in a slightly citrusy freshness. Floral notes are there from the start, but rather subtle and even the eponymous iris is initially restrained, but becomes more apparent as it progresses and is no longer overlooked in the base. The fragrance also becomes increasingly powdery. Also towards the base, moss comes in stronger and holds against it. So far so good.
For me personally, the fragrance has only two small problems: first, it is simply far too gentle. Juniper, lavender, the pine - all very nice, but I like it stronger, darker, like bitter. And secondly, the iris in the base is a bit too clear and powdery for me. From that it is not my fragrance, but for a small inner reflection he is well suited and some like it yes also soft and powdery ...
I go a little further and stand in the pine grove. The grove is still very young, the trees still small. Everything is light and the sun shines almost unhindered through the fine branches. Nature is just awakening, it is spring, still cool but no longer cold. The first tender green sprouts. Small leaves, lavender, the juniper bush. The air is filled with their sweet-spicy scent.
A little further down the path and I come to the clearing. It is circular, as if drawn with a compass. In its center stands the great iris. I sit down in the moss and look at the powdery soft light leaning against its trunk. Here I linger and just do nothing...
--------------------
Orris Forrest reminds me of spring. Tender green sprouts, it's still cool but already pleasant. What does not quite fit into the picture, is a slightly fruity note, which I perceive especially at the beginning. No idea where it comes from, fig leaf with acacia perhaps. More noticeable are the green notes, led by juniper and also some pepper. Later, lavender joins in and a dry pine that also brings in a slightly citrusy freshness. Floral notes are there from the start, but rather subtle and even the eponymous iris is initially restrained, but becomes more apparent as it progresses and is no longer overlooked in the base. The fragrance also becomes increasingly powdery. Also towards the base, moss comes in stronger and holds against it. So far so good.
For me personally, the fragrance has only two small problems: first, it is simply far too gentle. Juniper, lavender, the pine - all very nice, but I like it stronger, darker, like bitter. And secondly, the iris in the base is a bit too clear and powdery for me. From that it is not my fragrance, but for a small inner reflection he is well suited and some like it yes also soft and powdery ...
25 Comments
