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Blindbuys
Anyone who has been involved with Parfumo knows that the community experience of many is very similar. Sometimes you buy way too many bottlings, then you discover sharing, exchange options and at some point the cupboard is way too full. I'm speaking from experience (as a quick look into my bottlings folder reveals).
Another action to which one is very easily tempted once one has really read into the matter is the blindbuys. Goddamn blindbuys. I confess, I've done a few myself. "Aqva Amara (Eau de Toilette)", "CH Men Grand Tour", and a few others. Especially in the beginning I regretted them, because I didn't know them very well and the scent pyramids didn't tell me anything. With many of them I was lucky anyway.
The Luna Rossa Extreme is one such fragrance. With him I had already read a little bit into scent pyramids and was sure that the scent corresponds to my preferences. In addition, there was the pressure of the production stop and before you know it, I had it in my hand.
With the first spray burst came the first great disillusionment. This can't be it, I thought to myself. A huge pepper shot, followed by a lavender-citrus mixture, which smelled somehow uncoordinated and, quite honestly, uninteresting. I had bought Jean Paul Gaultier's "Le Mâle Terrible" not long before and noticed quite strong parallels between the two fragrances. I was a little disappointed and regretted the blind buy
I put the bottle aside for the time being and devoted myself to my everyday tasks. With time I noticed that the fragrance became more and more pleasant. The pepper gives way to vanilla and then there is a certain velvety background. I liked it more and more, and it became more and more different from "Le Mâle Terrible". The fragrance becomes sweeter and warmer as it progresses until it fades into complete vanilla.
This is also the moment when I learned to give fragrances a little more time. Especially in the designer area, the top note is often very short and immediately gives way to the next scent, which is then either linear or only measures a few notes in drydown. With this fragrance the change takes a little longer and is really noticeable.
The scent is neither too strong nor too weak. I like to wear it especially on warm (not hot) evenings in summer, late spring and early autumn. What I find especially interesting about Luna Rossa Extreme is the contrast between the repellent and cool opening and the further inviting, warm scent.
For a fragrance from Prada it is really very interesting and could certainly pass for a niche fragrance under a different name. Hence my disappointment that the fragrance has been taken off the market. My assumption is that the fragrance could not sell so well because of the top note. Many potential buyers base their purchases on head note tests, often from the paper strip, and the Luna Rossa Extreme definitely doesn't inspire them. This has probably led to weaker sales figures.
Unfortunately there are no alternatives to this fragrance. "Le Mâle Terrible" goes in a similar direction, but measures the depth of the drydown, "Luna Rossa Black" has a similar DNA, but then is completely different.
At the end of the day I don't regret this blind purchase, but I have definitely become a little more cautious. Congratulations to those who still managed to get hold of the scent. One of the many hired jewels from the designer area.
Another action to which one is very easily tempted once one has really read into the matter is the blindbuys. Goddamn blindbuys. I confess, I've done a few myself. "Aqva Amara (Eau de Toilette)", "CH Men Grand Tour", and a few others. Especially in the beginning I regretted them, because I didn't know them very well and the scent pyramids didn't tell me anything. With many of them I was lucky anyway.
The Luna Rossa Extreme is one such fragrance. With him I had already read a little bit into scent pyramids and was sure that the scent corresponds to my preferences. In addition, there was the pressure of the production stop and before you know it, I had it in my hand.
With the first spray burst came the first great disillusionment. This can't be it, I thought to myself. A huge pepper shot, followed by a lavender-citrus mixture, which smelled somehow uncoordinated and, quite honestly, uninteresting. I had bought Jean Paul Gaultier's "Le Mâle Terrible" not long before and noticed quite strong parallels between the two fragrances. I was a little disappointed and regretted the blind buy
I put the bottle aside for the time being and devoted myself to my everyday tasks. With time I noticed that the fragrance became more and more pleasant. The pepper gives way to vanilla and then there is a certain velvety background. I liked it more and more, and it became more and more different from "Le Mâle Terrible". The fragrance becomes sweeter and warmer as it progresses until it fades into complete vanilla.
This is also the moment when I learned to give fragrances a little more time. Especially in the designer area, the top note is often very short and immediately gives way to the next scent, which is then either linear or only measures a few notes in drydown. With this fragrance the change takes a little longer and is really noticeable.
The scent is neither too strong nor too weak. I like to wear it especially on warm (not hot) evenings in summer, late spring and early autumn. What I find especially interesting about Luna Rossa Extreme is the contrast between the repellent and cool opening and the further inviting, warm scent.
For a fragrance from Prada it is really very interesting and could certainly pass for a niche fragrance under a different name. Hence my disappointment that the fragrance has been taken off the market. My assumption is that the fragrance could not sell so well because of the top note. Many potential buyers base their purchases on head note tests, often from the paper strip, and the Luna Rossa Extreme definitely doesn't inspire them. This has probably led to weaker sales figures.
Unfortunately there are no alternatives to this fragrance. "Le Mâle Terrible" goes in a similar direction, but measures the depth of the drydown, "Luna Rossa Black" has a similar DNA, but then is completely different.
At the end of the day I don't regret this blind purchase, but I have definitely become a little more cautious. Congratulations to those who still managed to get hold of the scent. One of the many hired jewels from the designer area.
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Easter in quarantine
In these days of self-isolation, I spend a lot of time with things that I would otherwise not have time for due to my work or social life. Among other things, writing statements and comments.
I actually only wanted to write a small statement about this fragrance, but the scent appealed to my thoughts and awakened memories.
The most important thing first: Fragrance smells like dry incense, somewhat smoky and becomes rather leathery in drydown. Shelf life is very good with me, Sillage medium to good.
As some of you may know, I am half Macedonian. My mother's family lives in the capital Skopje and I usually spend the Easter holidays there every year. Although Easter often does not fall on the same day, it is the best time for me to visit my family there. My mother always comes too, as her birthday is in April and she was bound to my brother's school holidays in the past. In summer it is too hot for her there and in winter my parents spend time with my father's family
For me, Easter was also the best time for Skopje during my studies. In summer I always have to go to the sea, otherwise I go crazy. In winter I often visit my family on my father's side
My family in Skopje is big, hospitable and fun. Whenever I visit them, they try to spoil us as much as possible, although they actually have limited means. Whoever has family from the Balkans knows exactly what it's like: your grandmother cooks way too much, you eat as much as possible, because the food is also very good, but in the end she always accuses you of not having eaten enough. She then always takes it so personally. "You didn't like my food, why else would you not eat more?" But enough of that
Whatever is on the agenda, if we have the opportunity to catch the Orthodox Easter, is a visit to my favorite church. Next to Skopje is a mountain called Vodno. If you drive up it from the city, you can eventually turn quite high up and find a small church that is rather remote. We rather avoid the big city church, as it is much too crowded during the Easter time. The mass at Easter takes place at midnight and lasts quite long. This scent embodies this mass for me. The dry incense, which almost suffocates the room, much too little oxygen, because hundreds of candles are lit. The mass lasts for hours, older women faint and are brought in front of the church to catch their breath and then enter the mass again. Actually everything is a bit crazy, but still tradition and I wouldn't want it any other way.
The incense in this fragrance is very authentic. It reminds me one to one of the incense used in Orthodox churches, especially at Easter mass. The slightly smoky one fits perfectly. I know, for many people this is a repulsive smell, but for me it is a memory
It saddens me all the more that I cannot be with my family this year. The smell brings me a little closer to them. And yet an Easter with only two people is very sad for me, because otherwise I am used to big celebrations with the whole family.
I know that in this commentary I have described the fragrance to 10% and have let my heart run free to 90%, but you will forgive me for that.
I wish you all good health and all the best in these strange times. If you are of Christian faith, I also wish you a happy Easter!
I actually only wanted to write a small statement about this fragrance, but the scent appealed to my thoughts and awakened memories.
The most important thing first: Fragrance smells like dry incense, somewhat smoky and becomes rather leathery in drydown. Shelf life is very good with me, Sillage medium to good.
As some of you may know, I am half Macedonian. My mother's family lives in the capital Skopje and I usually spend the Easter holidays there every year. Although Easter often does not fall on the same day, it is the best time for me to visit my family there. My mother always comes too, as her birthday is in April and she was bound to my brother's school holidays in the past. In summer it is too hot for her there and in winter my parents spend time with my father's family
For me, Easter was also the best time for Skopje during my studies. In summer I always have to go to the sea, otherwise I go crazy. In winter I often visit my family on my father's side
My family in Skopje is big, hospitable and fun. Whenever I visit them, they try to spoil us as much as possible, although they actually have limited means. Whoever has family from the Balkans knows exactly what it's like: your grandmother cooks way too much, you eat as much as possible, because the food is also very good, but in the end she always accuses you of not having eaten enough. She then always takes it so personally. "You didn't like my food, why else would you not eat more?" But enough of that
Whatever is on the agenda, if we have the opportunity to catch the Orthodox Easter, is a visit to my favorite church. Next to Skopje is a mountain called Vodno. If you drive up it from the city, you can eventually turn quite high up and find a small church that is rather remote. We rather avoid the big city church, as it is much too crowded during the Easter time. The mass at Easter takes place at midnight and lasts quite long. This scent embodies this mass for me. The dry incense, which almost suffocates the room, much too little oxygen, because hundreds of candles are lit. The mass lasts for hours, older women faint and are brought in front of the church to catch their breath and then enter the mass again. Actually everything is a bit crazy, but still tradition and I wouldn't want it any other way.
The incense in this fragrance is very authentic. It reminds me one to one of the incense used in Orthodox churches, especially at Easter mass. The slightly smoky one fits perfectly. I know, for many people this is a repulsive smell, but for me it is a memory
It saddens me all the more that I cannot be with my family this year. The smell brings me a little closer to them. And yet an Easter with only two people is very sad for me, because otherwise I am used to big celebrations with the whole family.
I know that in this commentary I have described the fragrance to 10% and have let my heart run free to 90%, but you will forgive me for that.
I wish you all good health and all the best in these strange times. If you are of Christian faith, I also wish you a happy Easter!
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L'Homme Oubliable
In 2006, the original L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent was launched on the market and is, along with La Nuit de l'Homme, certainly one of the company's bestsellers. Whether it has been reformulated or not, I can't understand, but a very good friend of mine has been wearing it for years and I can always recognize the scent. It is reserved, but very pleasant and yet with recognition value.
Over the years, YSL has distinguished itself with an almost absurd amount of flankers to both of the above mentioned fragrances. They have rolled over with it. So after Le Parfum to La Nuit de l'Homme, now Le Parfum to the classic L'Homme.
I had La Nuit EdT and EdP in my collection around 2010 and I must say that at that time they were the best and most complex fragrances in my collection. Of course I was still at the very beginning, had only Boss Bottled Night and a few Cheapies in my collection, but these two fragrances were heavenly for me. YSL was the top for me
In the meantime I have to realize that YSL does not meet my taste anymore. Maybe it's because I'm gradually outgrowing my target group, but disappointing it still does me. Just like this flanker here, which underlines my statement even more.
The first spray of this flanker starts with what is called ozone here and for me simply embodies the classic freshness of an aquatic. But L'Homme Le Parfum is definitely not an aquatic. It rather goes in the direction of fragrances like Y from the same house or Acqua di Giò Absolu from Armani and is therefore one of the numerous further developments of the famously infamous Invictus by Paco Rabanne. I am aware that the fragrance DNA is quite popular at the moment, but it does not suit my taste. The top note is altogether a bit overstraining. The first time I smelled it I even got a slight headache. It starts very fresh and still has an overwhelming sweetness. I can smell cardamom (here in a rather sweetish version), but the lemon is gone in no time at all.
This sweet-fresh mix then drifts quite quickly into the rose geranium, which is more or less the centre of this fragrance. The geranium here has no pepperiness, which you can sometimes smell out, but goes more in the rosy direction. This blends with the sweet-fresh scent mixture, which persists, giving it an additional floral character. The Sillage is already dying a little bit here.
Towards the end everything becomes quite unspectacular, as the scent only gets a little bit more woody and thus fades away with a little bit of sweetness in a woody-fresh mix. The durability is quite ok, but I find the Sillage really very weak.
The fragrance is probably a perennial, but I see it more during my free time in the sunny park (I need to get out of this house) than at work. I rate the recognition value on a scale from 0 to 10, because I couldn't distinguish it from other freshies like the ones I mentioned above. Especially this is a pity, because at that time around 2010 the La Nuit fragrances were especially characterized by their recognition value. The normal L'Homme that my buddy wears, by the way.
This is probably the perfect gift for your young nephew, whose interests and preferences you know nothing about and who will certainly be happy about it. For the perfume bunnies who have already had several fragrances under their noses, this fragrance will either be a disappointment or simply forgotten.
To put it in the words of poet Ariana Grande: Thank U, Next.
Over the years, YSL has distinguished itself with an almost absurd amount of flankers to both of the above mentioned fragrances. They have rolled over with it. So after Le Parfum to La Nuit de l'Homme, now Le Parfum to the classic L'Homme.
I had La Nuit EdT and EdP in my collection around 2010 and I must say that at that time they were the best and most complex fragrances in my collection. Of course I was still at the very beginning, had only Boss Bottled Night and a few Cheapies in my collection, but these two fragrances were heavenly for me. YSL was the top for me
In the meantime I have to realize that YSL does not meet my taste anymore. Maybe it's because I'm gradually outgrowing my target group, but disappointing it still does me. Just like this flanker here, which underlines my statement even more.
The first spray of this flanker starts with what is called ozone here and for me simply embodies the classic freshness of an aquatic. But L'Homme Le Parfum is definitely not an aquatic. It rather goes in the direction of fragrances like Y from the same house or Acqua di Giò Absolu from Armani and is therefore one of the numerous further developments of the famously infamous Invictus by Paco Rabanne. I am aware that the fragrance DNA is quite popular at the moment, but it does not suit my taste. The top note is altogether a bit overstraining. The first time I smelled it I even got a slight headache. It starts very fresh and still has an overwhelming sweetness. I can smell cardamom (here in a rather sweetish version), but the lemon is gone in no time at all.
This sweet-fresh mix then drifts quite quickly into the rose geranium, which is more or less the centre of this fragrance. The geranium here has no pepperiness, which you can sometimes smell out, but goes more in the rosy direction. This blends with the sweet-fresh scent mixture, which persists, giving it an additional floral character. The Sillage is already dying a little bit here.
Towards the end everything becomes quite unspectacular, as the scent only gets a little bit more woody and thus fades away with a little bit of sweetness in a woody-fresh mix. The durability is quite ok, but I find the Sillage really very weak.
The fragrance is probably a perennial, but I see it more during my free time in the sunny park (I need to get out of this house) than at work. I rate the recognition value on a scale from 0 to 10, because I couldn't distinguish it from other freshies like the ones I mentioned above. Especially this is a pity, because at that time around 2010 the La Nuit fragrances were especially characterized by their recognition value. The normal L'Homme that my buddy wears, by the way.
This is probably the perfect gift for your young nephew, whose interests and preferences you know nothing about and who will certainly be happy about it. For the perfume bunnies who have already had several fragrances under their noses, this fragrance will either be a disappointment or simply forgotten.
To put it in the words of poet Ariana Grande: Thank U, Next.
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Caspar David Friedrich
The first sprayer. A wave clapping my face awakens me from my morning trance, which usually smells more like coffee. Puha, salt, lots of salt. I am definitely awake now
After the initial shock I gradually get used to the smell. The name fits perfectly, as the albatross is a seabird that either flies through the stormy winds of the sea or is swayed by the waves. The diet of this bird consists mainly of sea animals, including squid, sardines, jellyfish and other slippery sea creatures.
Of course, the scent fits perfectly. You have the feeling that you are looking for prey yourself on a cliff above the sea. The scent is not loud, a real hunter is not. The scent is very quiet, it doesn't really bring out any of the individual notes. All the more so what is described here as a 'maritime chord'. Like in a painting by Caspar David Friedrich, the albatross stands on this rock, looking towards the lake. It has become one with her and is now meditating, part storm, part lake and part... Bird. Yes, there's something dirty about the scent too. This dirty scent, probably more the 'driftwood' than the bird's excrements, intensifies in the course of the fragrance and quickly takes off the salty start. It also has an overall very mineral smell, similar to Tom Ford's "Oud Minérale". I can see many parallels between the two fragrances.
The fragrance is overall very artistic. I'm not saying I would never wear it, but there aren't that many occasions that come to mind right away. I'm not against the scent, as I loved to wear the above-mentioned "Oud Minérale" last summer. But this fragrance is also a bit weak in terms of performance. Quickly, the effervescent wave that knocked the coffee cup out of my hand turns into an ever quieter wave noise, as if I were walking straight ahead with my back turned towards the lake and trying to leave these memories behind me.
An interesting scent, a work of art, yes, but after this test I will also visit other shores.
After the initial shock I gradually get used to the smell. The name fits perfectly, as the albatross is a seabird that either flies through the stormy winds of the sea or is swayed by the waves. The diet of this bird consists mainly of sea animals, including squid, sardines, jellyfish and other slippery sea creatures.
Of course, the scent fits perfectly. You have the feeling that you are looking for prey yourself on a cliff above the sea. The scent is not loud, a real hunter is not. The scent is very quiet, it doesn't really bring out any of the individual notes. All the more so what is described here as a 'maritime chord'. Like in a painting by Caspar David Friedrich, the albatross stands on this rock, looking towards the lake. It has become one with her and is now meditating, part storm, part lake and part... Bird. Yes, there's something dirty about the scent too. This dirty scent, probably more the 'driftwood' than the bird's excrements, intensifies in the course of the fragrance and quickly takes off the salty start. It also has an overall very mineral smell, similar to Tom Ford's "Oud Minérale". I can see many parallels between the two fragrances.
The fragrance is overall very artistic. I'm not saying I would never wear it, but there aren't that many occasions that come to mind right away. I'm not against the scent, as I loved to wear the above-mentioned "Oud Minérale" last summer. But this fragrance is also a bit weak in terms of performance. Quickly, the effervescent wave that knocked the coffee cup out of my hand turns into an ever quieter wave noise, as if I were walking straight ahead with my back turned towards the lake and trying to leave these memories behind me.
An interesting scent, a work of art, yes, but after this test I will also visit other shores.
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Closing
For a very long time I have a bottling of this fragrance in my collection. Since the first application I found this fragrance extraordinary. It smells to me like no other. Until then I had never smelled anything like it
I admit that in the meantime I have tested myself a little more into the niche and have also smelled somewhat more demanding creations. However, the fact that a fragrance is extraordinarily wearable and suitable for the masses does not mean that it is not extraordinary.
The fragrance itself is not very easy to describe. All in all, I would say that the fragrance type is mainly floral with a very noticeable oriental touch. What stands out for me is the sandalwood, which makes the fragrance slightly creamy. What I also mean to perceive is the "bitter orange leaf". I don't know how these leaves should smell and if they have anything to do with the orange blossom, but I think I can smell certain parallels to the dominant scent in Maison Francis Kurkdjian's APOM. Neroli is also present, which gives the fragrance a very light citric twist. The iris tends to resonate in the background and underlines the creamy scent profile with a slight powdery note.
I can understand the comparisons to Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier somewhere. This is probably due to the sandalwood base combined with a certain sweetness. But I can't say exactly, my nose isn't trained enough for that. What I can say is that these are not fragrance twins. Also other siblings are not the fragrances. They are related to each other, but a bit more distant
And yet the fragrance is unique. It has an aura I've never smelled before. It's elegant, it's calm and very deep. It gives me confidence and it makes an extremely clean impression. This fragrance is not for Sunday on the couch in the hoodie. This is a fragrance for the ironed shirt, radiant white like the smile when you enter the room. The scent for the suit, for the tie, for the outfits that are a little more special or formal than the casual wear.
I haven't worn this scent since my graduation. I was extremely nervous because I had an endless amount of material to prepare, even though I had actually already written a thesis. I was totally unsettled, didn't know how much detail the examiners would examine. Moreover, the exam was in two languages due to my combination of subjects, none of them my mother tongue - that made me even more insecure. Reflection Man, however, acted as an anchor and gave me the self-confidence and confidence to do the thing. The success of my exam was certainly not only and not mainly due to the scent, but more to my previous knowledge and preparation. Nevertheless, I am glad to have chosen this scent, as it gave me the strength for self-control purely psychologically and contributed to my overall calmness.
This is a unique fragrance, which will surely be part of my collection within the next few months. A masterpiece
Thanks for reading and stay healthy,
your Mag. PBregovich
I admit that in the meantime I have tested myself a little more into the niche and have also smelled somewhat more demanding creations. However, the fact that a fragrance is extraordinarily wearable and suitable for the masses does not mean that it is not extraordinary.
The fragrance itself is not very easy to describe. All in all, I would say that the fragrance type is mainly floral with a very noticeable oriental touch. What stands out for me is the sandalwood, which makes the fragrance slightly creamy. What I also mean to perceive is the "bitter orange leaf". I don't know how these leaves should smell and if they have anything to do with the orange blossom, but I think I can smell certain parallels to the dominant scent in Maison Francis Kurkdjian's APOM. Neroli is also present, which gives the fragrance a very light citric twist. The iris tends to resonate in the background and underlines the creamy scent profile with a slight powdery note.
I can understand the comparisons to Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier somewhere. This is probably due to the sandalwood base combined with a certain sweetness. But I can't say exactly, my nose isn't trained enough for that. What I can say is that these are not fragrance twins. Also other siblings are not the fragrances. They are related to each other, but a bit more distant
And yet the fragrance is unique. It has an aura I've never smelled before. It's elegant, it's calm and very deep. It gives me confidence and it makes an extremely clean impression. This fragrance is not for Sunday on the couch in the hoodie. This is a fragrance for the ironed shirt, radiant white like the smile when you enter the room. The scent for the suit, for the tie, for the outfits that are a little more special or formal than the casual wear.
I haven't worn this scent since my graduation. I was extremely nervous because I had an endless amount of material to prepare, even though I had actually already written a thesis. I was totally unsettled, didn't know how much detail the examiners would examine. Moreover, the exam was in two languages due to my combination of subjects, none of them my mother tongue - that made me even more insecure. Reflection Man, however, acted as an anchor and gave me the self-confidence and confidence to do the thing. The success of my exam was certainly not only and not mainly due to the scent, but more to my previous knowledge and preparation. Nevertheless, I am glad to have chosen this scent, as it gave me the strength for self-control purely psychologically and contributed to my overall calmness.
This is a unique fragrance, which will surely be part of my collection within the next few months. A masterpiece
Thanks for reading and stay healthy,
your Mag. PBregovich
5 Comments
