PMRP12

Nutty earthy wood. Opens with a rich and oily nuttiness soon joined by a subtle, root vegetable earthiness—ever so slightly sweet and powdery. Becomes increasingly fresh and somewhat soapy on my skin, with a faint grassiness in the far background. Ends with buttery blond woods, still both dry and fresh, and richer resins. A deftly composed, seemingly effortless balance of savory, sweet, and fresh notes. Incredibly easy to wear, it draws you in over and over as it evolves. Stays lovely and in tune with my skin into the dry down; so soothing and introspective. Amongst my very favorite Vetivers.

Smoother, and less sweet than Fat Electrician. Less rooty and earthy than most popular Vetivers (e.g. Encre Noire, Sycomore), sans citrus (e.g. Terre d’Hermes, Grey Vetiver) but still nuanced and interesting.

Fantastic fresh rose opening—dewy, green, and spicy—that becomes increasingly woody, ambery, musky, and smoky over time. Perfectly unisex on paper, yet different skin will emphasize various facets (mine amps up the spice and incense, where my wife’s focuses on the rose and fruit). Pure and clean, with none of the overly jammy, saccharine, or bitter notes common to many rose fragrances. A balanced, but drastically sweeping shift from light and fresh (rose and spice) to dark and sultry (resins and wood). I haven’t truly smelled anything quite like this, but recall very loose similarities with Déclaration D’Un Soir—just less sweet and with more natural rose and development. Wife and I are splitting a bottle. A deftly composed and dynamic rose and incense masterpiece. Must try!

So beautifully blended and natural smelling throughout. Zesty lime adds a unique spin on the typical bergamot opening—brighter, juicier, without the inedible tartness and bitterness. The tropical florals and herbs here are not loud star players, but rather serve to accompany the smooth, shifting composition. The overall result is a slightly citric, mossy/herbal green, and powdery resin scent that makes it one of my favorite chypres to date. Easier to my nose than the classic Mitsouko, without the sharp yeasty bread and fruit notes. Also more gentle and smoother than the unique MAAI, without its bold and brash smoky animalics.

Lavender jasmine musk. Breathtakingly beautiful composition. Gorgeous, multidimensional lavender, rich and sensual florals, and animalic musks. Opening is stunning—fresh, herbal, juicy, malty, almost fruity. Mid is slightly tropical with fleshy, jammy florals. Musks dominate much later, adding warmth, interest, and balance. Study of contrasts—masculine/feminine, dry/sweet, floral/animalic, bombastic/reserved, familiar/unique. Masterpiece must-have.

My last sample, like my first, opens with a bang—in this case, a meteoric apocalypse. This one smells like chaos and destruction—a burning forest of charred carbon. I get whiffs of the burnt laurel notes in Interlude Man, but without any of the resin sweetness that brings relief. This one is challenging for me, but there are tiny remnants of rich incense amidst the charcoal that keep me hunting for more. I imagine smokers (or fans of smoke) would adore this. Definitely not for me, but thankful for the experience.