PMRP12

As a fan of boozy scents, I was excited to try this one. Unfortunately, the booziness here is completely devoid of sweetness and accompanied by only a harsh black leather. Like the ashy opening of Tuscan Leather, but without the lovely raspberry to balance things out. The leather even becomes a bit chemical to me as it dries down—like burning plastic. Not completely repulsive, but too much for too long for me. Hard pass.

Surprised to hear this one is often deemed the house’s friendliest composition. Personally, I find the contrast of damp sweetness and bitter earthy greenness slightly off-putting. I had similar issues with Saint Julep, but this is still way smoother and less chemical. Perhaps if the composition was slightly less sweet, I’d better appreciate the lovely, tender green notes—like fresh baby bamboo shoots emerging from the soil. Admirable work, but not something I’d personally reach for.

Very reminiscent of Mitsouko—but replace the peach with plum, amp up the rose, and swap the cinnamon for saffron. Perfect balance of fresh, green, and rich—thankfully not too sweet or too dry—just right. Beautifully composed with restraint and finesse. My favorite feminine from the line, and one I’d have no problem wearing for myself. Excellent work.

I get that piercing saffron again, this time accompanied by a very dry and medicinal oud that results in the camphorous effect of mothballs. There is no sweetness here, nor the signature animal musk notes from others in the line—just lots of loud clove, camphor, and dry resin. The dry down smells like dried saliva; that smell immediately following a sneeze. Not quite stomach-turning or headache-inducing, but definitely not for me.

Nice combination of bright and energizing green notes with calming herbal notes. This almost smells therapeutic—a scent to settle stomachs, focus energy, or relax nerves. I could also see this scent pumped into hipster spas or gyms to denote health and wellness. It is interesting to note I imagine this scenting both a space and my skin. A lovely, versatile composition for what ails you.