PMRP12

I was most nervous (yet also excited) to try this one. The opening greeted me with that medicinal bandage vibe of Tauer L’Oudh, with a slight nod towards my arch nemesis, Slow Explosions (rose + saffron)—but thankfully without the immediate repulsion. Instead, I found myself surprised by how much I tolerated (and even began to like) the intensifying baked fecal and urine notes. I think the secret to its success was pairing that animalic funk with the warming and nutty sweetness of tonka and benzoin. Not something I’d ever wear out, but glad I got to challenge my nose with it.

Very youthful and pretty, almost saccharine in nature. The fruit is the standout here—I get mostly apple and cherry—followed by fine florals like honeysuckle, rose, and ylang. Gets smoother, soapier, and creamier as it dries down. My wife, typically a floral fan, thought it was a tad too sweet and juvenile for her. Pretty in pink, but not quite our style. Regardless, a very wearable and mass-appealing fragrance.

Powerful grassy green opening (Green Irish Tweed x 2), accompanied by earthy roots and a touch of sour citrus. The tea and citrus dominate into the mid, giving it a pleasant Earl Grey effect. Then it shifts again, turning increasingly woodsy, creamy, and masculine over time. A surprisingly creative composition with a very handsome smell.

The lightest scent I’ve tried yet from the house. Very ephemeral and sparkly opening, and gets greener and sweeter as it dries. I get a touch of pond water with green algae to offset all the pretty florals, making it slightly more interesting, though still feminine. Fine, but unremarkable to my nose.

Being a fougere fan, I had high hopes for this one... but they can’t all be winners. Brings back memories of growing up around aviaries—the smell captured here is uncanny. Birds have a very particular scent that is equal parts musky (their skin), dusty (their feathers), and grainy (their food). Kudos is deserved for perfectly replicating that scent—it’s just something I never seek to smell, let alone wear.