Save Perfume’s Soul – a petition to protect the future of fragrance
Dear Fragrant Friends,
As some of you know, perfumery is currently at a critical juncture, and we need your help in order to assure that the hobby we all love is not slowly destroyed by well-meaning but misguided legislation.
The problem began in 2009, when the European Union enacted a law requiring that 26 different materials used in perfume-making be labelled on the packaging and outright prohibiting the use of several other substances. Worse yet, the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) recommended that the concentration of a number of citrus oils commonly used in fragranced products be reduced on the ground that they caused skin photosensitivity and irritation. Both the EU legislation and the IFRA guidelines have since been incorporated into the vast majority of today's perfumes and as a result, many gorgeous fragrances had to be reformulated to their severe detriment, while others were discontinued completely.
Aside from a few brave individuals, not much opposition was voiced when the 2009 legislation was pending. Currently, a measure is on the table in Brussels that has the potential to inflict even more damage on the perfume industry than the previous law. Furthermore, the new act represents an alarming trend of continued and harsher regulation where it was previously hoped that the 2009 restrictions would be the end of the inquiry. However, we hope that widespread opposition by the Parfumo community and other fragrance lovers will dictate a better outcome for perfumery in 2014 and stem the tide of overly-stringent regulation.
At the moment, the EU is considering a complete ban of Chloroatranol and Atranol. These chemicals are essential components of oakmoss and tree moss, and without them, chypres and fougères may all but disappear. Moreover, oakmoss can be found in the base notes of perfumes of every type because it is an excellent fixative which dramatically extends the longevity of a fragrance. Lyral® is also on the chopping block, and though you may not automatically recognize the name, this material is integral to the formula of many popular perfumes. "Poison" and its flankers, "Coco" and "Aventus" are just a few of the fragrances that would have to be completely re-worked if the pending law is enacted.
When the legislation was announced, some of us here at Parfumo were understandably confused and upset. How is it that adults can't be trusted to make their own informed decisions about the relatively small risk of a skin rash, we wondered. Surely a warning label would be sufficient to alert perfume users to a potential allergy. Thus, a movement was started and a petition was born. We soon learned that the Commission tasked with evaluating public sentiment regarding the law was actively soliciting contributions to the debate, and research began in earnest. The result of our effort is contained in a document that is part of the petition, entitled, "Contribution to the Public Consultation of the Commission."
Although this legislation is pending in Europe, it will have an impact on perfume the world over if it is passed. If history is any indication, the IFRA is sure to embrace the law and perfume houses will be forced to adopt the new guidelines, resulting in massive reformulations and discontinuations. Not if we have our way, however. Please join us in opposing the legislation by signing the petition. You need not be a resident of a European Union country in order to sign the document or be a part of this fight. We're also asking your help to spread the word, so please don't hesitate to share the link and tell your fragrant friends, as well as any person who might be sympathetic to the preservation of a cultural asset and consumer freedom of choice. Along those lines, your tweets and Facebook shares would be greatly appreciated.
Long live perfume!