Pipette's Perfume Blog

18.06.2014
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The attachment to past memories

is sometimes the reason to buy a perfume that is vintage or vintage-close reformulated. Although there is no lack of new scents issued daily. These are modern and portray the current atmosphere of rush and accomplishment. Something quick, something certain, just spray it on and get in step with your upcoming day. Check your e-mail, plug the earphone in and off and on the way.

People who don't have to work (anymore) like myself don't have that sense of rush. They look backward more than leaning forward. The priorities are not the same.

There is time to contemplate the past. Short time memory is brief, long way back memory is large.

Which brings me to the topic of perfume. I so wanted to like the Paul Kiler line. Certainly, they are artfully crafted. They have a somewhat blunt edge to the aroma. That is fine for the fresh scents, like "Ere". Paul Kiler seems to like a leather note and uses it.

Enter PK "Dirty Rose" - a bold rose scent, there is no mistake about it. But, but ... I cannot wear something like this. It is not "perfume" to me. So, I brought out from my samples a decant of "Or et Noir" by Caron. Here, too, we have a perfume full of roses paired with carnation and then a powdery dry down. That feels womanly to me. It is more than just a scent. "Dirty Rose" is a scent, just that. Not an aura, not an aroma.

What is it that makes the vintage scents so appealing? It cannot just be that there is more of oakmoss, more of civet, more of those notes that are reformulated today. It must also be the fashion, how the perfumes were put together.

Skin chemistry has been discussed many times. I say that there is something to it, how each "formula" plays out on the wearer. Of course, perception and memory bank also play a role. "Opium" (vintage) of which I had a bottle from a generous member, was too heavy on me. I could not wear it all day long, it made me uncomfortable. However, "Cinnabar" of Estee Lauder is just fine, even though I don't care much about the rest of the Estee Lauder line. Both scents were heavy hitters of the Eighties.

Enter the new darling, "Jean-Louis Scherrer". The first one came out in 1979 and when I worked as a temporary secretary, during lunch time in midtown Manhattan, I did the rounds to the department stores and they practically threw the samples at the customers, the way nowadays one must duck away not to be spritzed. The updated "Jean-Louis Scherrer" is almost as good. I wrote about the deal. I look forward to wearing it, it matches my mood in the hot New York summer days where air conditioning is mandatory and the only spot to stay to keep sane and get something accomplished.

Last, not least, a little off topic. I want to use this personal blog space to state that a great overhaul of Parfumo is not necessary. Leave well enough alone. There is no need to change the Rating System for the Longevity from percent to hours. Numbers don't reflect the impressions well enough. All impressions of the perfume wearers are by default SUBJECTIVE. And therefore, only words can do the job of elaborating the sensory impressions. Language is the tool, not numbers! That is what reviews are for. (For the members who read both English and German - there are two big discussions on the twin site - go visit if the subject interests you.)

That's it. For now.

Thanks for listening and thanks to the hosts for such a great website.