Rickbr

I believe that Fueguia, somehow, is the South America Jo Malone with a better and luxuous presentation and fragrances between the same style of the british brand, creations that seems linear and made to be combined, and creations more complete and complex. I had doubts if the notes they released were simple on purpose or if they reflected what was created, but from what i sampled briefly at saturday the are faithful to the scent. Xocoatl is inspired on the Aztecs drink that gave origin to our chocolate, with the word used to name it having the meaning of bitter water, which reflects the dry and dark roasted taste of cocoa. Apparently the Aztecs also used the vanilla orquid to enrich the cocoa drink, but wine and also spices were used. The focus here is on the chocolate and vanilla, which makes Xocoatl quite literal on skin. Sometimes i get the impression that i'm wearing a very straight version of Very Irresistible Homme idea of cocoa and coffee, since something on the cocoa in Xocoatl reminds me a lot of cocoa powder and roasted coffee at the same time. This is the main focus for me, with the craemy sugary of vanilla work as a background to provide it some smothness.I also notice something very masculine on the rum smell, as if they used a mint licquer to give it the beverage notion to the cocoa and vanilla combination. I think that Xocoatl hits perfectly the concept, but for me it could have been a little bit more dynamic and complex.

Focusing on the profitable trend of oriental perfumes centered on the agarwood accord, Gucci launched this year what is a flanker to its Gucci by Gucci 2007 creation. I think they chose this one maybe due the unisex aura of the 2007 one, although the result is only related to the it by the bottle and the secondary notes of musk, patchouli and pear. What is central and most noticeable is the now classic combination of saffron, rose and agarwood, which few brands have fled when they launch their ouds interpretations. Throughout the composition gucci oud seems to favor on me a little bit more the saffron and oud accord seems to go in and out of focus at times during the composition. At the opening, it has something quickly Animalic and smoky, blending with the pear and raspberry aromas. It's not as easy to recognize these fruits, it seems as if they had been dipped in a vat of rose-saffron-oud accord to give a slightly fruity and sweet tonality. After the fruity notes evolve, rose and saffron share space in the heart, with the rose being a little bit sweet and without any bitter nuances and with the saffron giving it leathery, powdery and spicy aroma. Finally, Gucci Oud ends in a more woody oud without medicinal nuances, and i also get some discreet patchouly earth at this phase. At that time, it fantly brings a Tom Ford Noir Noir resemblance in the skin, as a milder version of this. Honestly, this does not add anything new to the interpretation of this type of fragrance, but is concerned about offering something that not only stay on the oud and that seems to have plenty of development and harmony on skin.

This is certainly an amazing classic structure, but exactly the narcissus of my dreams. Instead of being the central part on this party, it shares the stage with the other notes, at a kind of one of those classic balls that everyone seems to dance at the right pace together. It starts with a generous dose of bitter, green and inky galbanum freshness. Then, very quickly you notice a gorgeous floral aroma. It has fruity traces, honey aspects and a kind of subtle animalic suggestion, something more naughty that seems to project close to the skin. Altough it doesn't have gardenia, i smell a kind of fruitiness that is typical of gardenia accords on fragrances. The narcissus is tricky here because it seems balanced to push, at one end, its jasmine nuances and, at the base end, the powdery opoponax aura the absolute has once it dries down on skin. The base is mossy, woody, what you would expect on a very well composed classic chypre, a comfort dose of oakmoss, patchouli, with sandalwood giving it usual woody creamy aroma and opoponax providing a nice slightly sweet and fruity resinous end.

On my mind, this is what happens if Jeux de Peau and Coco Mademoiselle had a child. I don't get much salt on this, but i do get a sugary caramel note and something that smells a lot like the bread note and the creamy sandalwood of Jeux de Peau. The base seems to have something of the sweet woodiness of Coco and curiously i also smell a floral element too, the usual jasmine accord they like to use in modern chypre creations. Not original, but a interesting combination.

My biggest surprise was discovering, when searching for its notes, that Havana was created in the 90 years, more precisely in 1994. If you don't know this detail, you quickly associate this perfume to the 80's, that time when masculine creations had a big, herbal and unsmilling aura. Maybe what makes the differente between the fragrances of this time and Havana is that it goes beyond the aroma of woods and dry herbs, it's a complex harmony of several elements around what links it to its name, the tobacco accord. This is a spicier and drier tobacco that becomes a little bit more sweet and boozy as the scent develop on skin. The opening is mainly herbal, it makes me think of perfume alcohol made of bitter leaves with something more sweet and citrus. This inicial moment reminds me of a brazillian classic of the eighties, Natura Sr N, but this resemblance goes as fast as i notice it, when i start to detect the dry and smoky combination of tobacco and fir, with a dry spicy aura of clove, cinnamon and carnation. Until this moment Havana is tipically for me on eighties lands, but from the heart until the base that things transform, when the tobacco starts to develop a vanilla and almondy side and a subtle liquer-ish tone, counterbalanced by an abstract and discreet woody accord. I don't know if this reformulated one i'm wearing is faithful to the original one, but it certainly has quality, keeping the connection with its name and i think it's worthing being tried if you enjoy fragrances with a more retro aura.