Ropanski2020

It is interesting to be able to read here on parfumo, how strongly this fragrance should polarize, yet it has not (yet) been enough for a critical review in the comments section. Quite strange. It's certainly easier to promote a fragrance than to talk it into the ground. Nevertheless, the same applies to praise as to criticism: it is based on personal assumptions, expectations and preferences, and therefore does not have to be shared by third parties, neither in part nor in its entirety. In this sense, the following comment is also to be understood.

First, I must confess: I am a fan of the Private Blend series by Tom Ford. This brought out great fragrances over many years, but has recently clearly lost in quality, as far as the direction of the range is concerned. The new releases recently are all mixed and sometimes not (more) worth the price that is proclaimed by the official side. Too bad, but so is the course of events.

Tuscan Leather, to keep it short, does not please me at all on my skin. He seems to me in the overall view completely unbalanced, downright exhausting in the top note and frighteningly meager in the base note, for me simply a failure! To the truth, however, also belongs to admit that I have already perceived him in other people as quite acceptable (more), even - in one case - as quite exciting, so different can be the skin chemistry in individual cases (unfortunately).

The sweet prelude is, to say the least, an olfactory horror for me, even in the drydown this not to tame raspberry is still omnipresent. Although nuances of balsamic and herbaceous notes are recognizable here and there in the course of the fragrance, however, these are rejected by the overbred fruit of the field, so that you want to let go unnerved from the back of your own hand, because this penetrating sweetness rises too strongly in the nose. The eponymous chords of leather are of little help, too weakly worked out in the base note for my taste. Maybe I'm just used to more potent leather scents. Whether the perfumer should be reproached for this of all things, personal expectations have not fully served, remains certainly questionable, however, the leather does not want to please me in its composition.

Because Tuscan Leather smells in the course sometimes strongly of chemical products from the series of pharmaceutical residual products and industrial plastics, which found their way via detours to the tanner, who wants to go habitually to action, only to stop halfway through the work, because fully overwhelmed. No, this combination of sweetened berry compote with a hint of solvent and soft leather nuances is not to my taste at all and has already made me recoil in similar disappointment with Fragrance Du Bois' Milano. That should have been warning enough for me. From Tuscan Leather, which is advertised in many places as less sweet than the Milano, I hoped for more in the end then.

Summa summarum has Tuscan Leather - for me - little exclusive or even significant in itself, for it he convinces me from the craftsmanship simply much too little, even if just in this point the opinions here in the forum will certainly diverge. Its name promises Tuscan flair, but what you get is at best an Italian large-scale industrial plant for composites, whose halls are lined with a multitude of scented trees spraying the scent of synthetic raspberry. Fantasy or not, Tuscan Leather does not conjure up Mediterranean images in my mind.

Who likes it sweet-spicy and at the same time also dark, but just not (so) leathery, is in my opinion with Plum Japonais from the Private Blend series of Tom Ford much better served. The sweetness steps here in the drydown excellent behind the spice, without saying goodbye completely. If, on the other hand, you can do without sweetness altogether, but don't want to let go of the leather and want to continue to poach in the Private Blend series, then reach for Oud Wood Intense, another, but in this case wonderfully implemented fraudulent label fragrance from the house of Tom Ford. The leather is here much more full-bodied, more authentic and, in turn, also - in my opinion - more honest because by all means rougher implemented.

Before is inquired, the Tuscan Leather Intense version I have not yet been allowed to test for comparison, I'll get but soon after.

(Greetings go out to the good Kap1405, which has provided me with a bottling)

Nishane, what a stunningly beautiful fragrance you're presenting us with. Currently probably the biggest seller of the house next to Hacivat and recently no longer an insider tip, as often as I see you appear in any supposed top lists, perfume included. Actually not a very good sign, because in the rarest of cases the hype can keep up with the actual quality of the content, and therefore it might sound less surprising now if I say that I didn't want to join in the mean chorus of praise(s) at first.

Once purchased as a fragrance in the souk, you convinced me less of your citric-vanilla style, too much your patchouli shot me in the nose, and let me foggy distance from the thoughts of wanting to acquire you. My nose was not (any longer) trained to understand the interplay of different scent chords, I had been out of the world of (niche) perfumes for too long. It was therefore rather love at second sight, when I was allowed to test you extensively months later, after a second attempt.

Ani begins citric-fresh, with grassy chords in the top note, but which quickly fade into the background when the base notes try to unfold with vehemence, which is the case with me after only a few minutes. What a pity - I would have liked it better if the opening had lasted a bit longer. It's this combination of vanilla and green notes that makes Ani so interesting for me.

Even though I could guess the listed ingredients of ginger and pink pepper more than I could really notice, the vanilla and patchouli are too omnipresent in the base note, the interaction of the ingredients convinces me completely, especially the drydown really knows how to please. As soon as Ani has settled on the skin, it unfolds this wonderful creaminess, which reminds me of the much-cited lemon cake with a wooden crust. Very tasty and pleasant to wear, even for a man, as the vanilla stands out far more for its spiciness than for a general sweetness, although opinions may differ here. The silage? Extremely potent, voluminous and consequently totally captivating! Wrongly dosed Ani will kill you, especially in badly ventilated interiors! But nobody has complained yet. Durability? Remarkable, I only recently noticed it on me for 10+ hours

For me Ani is one of the most beautiful vanilla scents of the last years, which left me with astonishment and reawakened my interest in it. Cécile Zarokian succeeds here in the masterly feat of presenting a vanilla which, between sweetness and spiciness, and not least thanks to the woody notes, seeks to sound out a portable middle ground between the sexes. For those who prefer a more ambry and less spicy taste, choose >Aura Sublime< by Bijon, Cécile Zarokian's signature is unmistakable here too. For those of you who don't know what to do with the citric top note, but rather enjoy resinous compositions, Bois d'Arménie by Guerlain should offer a safe haven.

Funny side note: Only recently in the subway I thought I noticed him on a young lady. Too bad I wore it myself that day. Thus a competition of silage developed, which did not go unnoticed despite the obligation to wear a mask and was finally appreciated by both of us with a broad smile, distinctive dimples never lie. This is how unisex works!

Oh, dear, I must admit, floral scents have a very difficult time with me. No, I'm far from being a sea of flowers romantic, perfumes of this kind literally kill me. The floral accents have to be very moderate and less strong in the top note, at best with other stronger base notes, so that I can tolerate them in my microcosm at all.

Unfortunately, Daylily belongs to the genus of floral scents, which, due to its rather strong floral note(s), leaves me hardly any room to breathe, although it is not as sweet in the opening as I feared before. Quite the opposite - as expressive and lifelike as the base note of the eponymous flower is, the earthy basic components that are so characteristic for the house can also be found here (mossy, humid, boggy), which is quite beneficial for Daylily. Nevertheless I find it rather monotonous when viewed as a whole. His bouquet is not very excitingly realized, since the basic DNA of the house is well known and as a result has lost so much of its *uniqueness*. On the other hand, Daylily convinces with its naturalness; at least this is what sets it apart from the cheaper representatives of its guild from the drugstore chains; because here, the flower stems were processed together with the soil. For the experienced olfactorists out there, this will most likely not be enough reason to buy, the performance is too straightforward and unspectacular, especially in view of the proud mL price

I also think it is a bold step to list it as unisex on parfumo, even if it shows a certain heaviness and profundity here and there. But: I alone lack the belief that I can really wear it as a man. At least I can't think of a suitable occasion. No, in my eyes it is not unisex and if at all suitable for women's evening wear, and even here it may not really please me! To be honest, I don't want to share and enjoy it with myself or anyone else, no matter how good it may seem in its implementation

I can't call likable(r) alternatives big, I don't know enough about the floral (niche) world. That the HoM offers interesting floral alternatives was proven in the past with Forbidden, which offered a much more exciting play of aromas.

Much more spectacular is the durability, because it's really something special: Daylily lasts a good 7-9 hours on my skin. This should be mentioned at this point in praise.

Anyone who has read my brief commentary on Tom Ford's London will know that I am quite fond of animal scents. At least I'm not going to go far

In principle the many slick scents (of various houses) are a horror to me at the moment. Courage to the gap - no chance! Apart from a few niche houses, risks are shunned in many places like the use of natural ingredients. These powdery excesses and overloaded "Synthi-Ambroxan bombs", which one encounters in public transport in many places, sometimes stink to high heaven! With pleasure I take note of every form of olfactory variety that tries to make a statement across gender boundaries and against the offensive efforts of the mainstream fragrance industry - to smell clean - even if it means to push the limits of what is reasonable.

Nishane is an interesting house, with partly first-class scents. The present one, however, clearly stands out from the in-house assortment, because it does not want to attract the attention of the masses, but rather to cause a stir and to wipe out that disproportionately represented shower gel folklore fraction, it is worth a try.

As soon as the pack of mounted elephants starts to move, the (faecal) oud basic component stands out together with the myrrh. The whole thing is overwhelmingly omnipresent, one might think, if only it weren't for this lovely component, which increasingly slows down the elephant's movement and makes it move together much more pleasingly than the stormy start would have led one to assume, thanks to the labdanum. Although the cowshed romanticism is not completely shed, it is largely domesticated. Great - after 20-30 minutes the fecal strictness gives way to a cosy warmth. It surrounds you like a newly created, freshly tanned leather jacket. Cuddly and beguiling at the same time, the fragrance is much more wearable than expected. Nevertheless, it should be a challenge for most noses.

Durability is one thing. But after several tests I can say: consistently good. Depending on the temperature conditions and how you feel on the day, you can expect it to last between 5 and even 8 hours. Not a too bad value, as I think.

Afrika-Olifant reminds its wearer and its surroundings that despite intensive care efforts or antiseptic care mania of postmodern households, one remains a living being of flesh and blood, through whose pores exhalations and emanations penetrate, which one can trick, but cannot get rid of them completely, apart from unconventional cosmetic interventions. When in doubt, ask your pet, it is always right.

Oh, a daring scent, my dear Mr. Ford. That it was removed from the Private Blend series doesn't really surprise me that it was published at all, all the more so because it doesn't fit into your portfolio. But first things first.

A snack on the Thunderbox or a visit to a crowded oriental bazaar - somehow London combines both. It is definitely unique and striking at the same time and therefore a small work of art, provided that the distinct animalistic impact does not trigger a polysynaptic reflex in the wearer. Thus the route of travel is predetermined.

The prelude is quite peppery. Chords of cardamom, saffron and cumin clearly dominate, the latter being responsible for a rendezvous of dirty desires, which is not everybody's cup of tea. After a few minutes, woody components are added, which take away some of the pungency and at the same time ensure that this fragrant safari does not end in a cesspool. Although this spicy-woody conglomerate still has the faecal impact, this is soon balanced by a sweetness that is difficult to describe, without completely fading into the background. Top, this is really well done by hand, I think

Durability: Okay to quite good! Lasts depending on the daily form about 4-6 hours on my skin. Whoever wears it will hardly receive any compliments in our latitudes, its external appearance is too polarizing. But you can expect a respectful nod of the head here and there. Connoisseurs know the score.

London, a daring experiment with an uncertain outcome. This is the conclusion. Anyone who loves animal scents will certainly enjoy testing them extensively. All others are recommended to give this alleged *stinker* a wide berth. I really liked him!

(Greetings go out to dear Moenti)