Rosie88

Rosie88

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Rosie88 3 years ago 41 14
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Scent
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Shalimar then and now....
I am just very happy to be able to make a comparison of the Shalimar today and "back then"...
By "back then" I mean a version that was on the market in about 1995.

-What has changed in this time?
-Is Shalimar still like back then?
-Is it worthwhile to look for a vintage flacon and spend his hard-earned money for it?

I would like to let you participate in my test and the resulting sensations. Maybe someone among us fragrance crazy so interested in it like me ;-) hahaha

Otherwise considers my Kommi gladly as "further mustard to a classic" ;-)

I have both versions aufgesprüft - one left and one right - so I can effectively and directly compare what's going on:

Shalimar on the left (today's version) starts with a fresh tangy bergamot.
The bergamot is very intense, demanding and engaging....

In Shalimar right (vintage), the bergamot is also fresh-tangy, but on me - accompanied by a tickling spiciness - that I can't find in today's version like that...

In today's version (left) the fresh bergamot warps a little faster than in the vintage version (right) I find. For this I think to recognize that with the today's version (left) faster something flowery comes in addition and displaces the bergamot somewhat...

In the vintage version (right), I don't find such a clear florality after the opening, but rather a direct transition into the wonderfully resinous-balsamic "main act"....
(there comes briefly an association of cherries - for whatever reason (?) - but that quickly disappears again)...

Slowly, the great resinous-balsamic side of Shalimar comes out in today's version (left), too, which I love so much.... wonderful, intense, lascivious, hypnotic.... Fantastic!

So both versions stay for a decent while, although I personally find that the balsamic-resinous thing I love so much comes across much stronger and more intense in the vintage version (right) than in the contemporary version (left).
In today's version (left), the deliciously balsamic resinous is somewhat ensnared by a gentle florality - which in and of itself is not to devalue - but hald simply different, as in the vintage version (right).

I think here it's just a matter of taste, whether you prefer more & more intense balsamic resinous, or you like it better when something floral still resonates...

I really like both versions, although the vintage version (on the right) gives me a bit more heart palpitations because of the more intense balsamic-resinous "main act"....

For me, then, neither version changes too much.... both remain wonderfully-delicious and absolutely unsweet balsamic-smooth.... to snuggle in....

Hold do they at me both pretty identically long, which I find really great :-)

Now to my questions, which I had asked at the beginning:

-What has changed in this time?
I would argue that, for example, purely because of the regulations of IFRA today, many fragrances no longer smell the same as they used to. Possibly formerly used fragrances are now no longer allowed, no longer available or are perhaps now synthetically replicated...?
This is however a topic for itself and was already discussed in numerous entries in the forum, with which I would not like to go into it here further.
What I would like to say, however, is that even if Shalimar has changed over time - the original DNA is definitely still there and is in no way inferior to the vintage version.
The new version is for me a little "calmer", less wild and more floral, than the vintage version.
Radiance and durability they both have - there is nothing lost in my opinion...

-Is Shalimar still like back then?
This question has also cleared up for me immediately.
DNA is there. But there are differences in any case...

-Is it worth it to look for a vintage flacon and spend his hard-earned money for it?
Well, that is then probably very dependent on the taste of the person....
If I would find a vintage version at a "pleasant" price, I would probably buy it, yes.... But then I wouldn't necessarily want to spend too high a price on the vintage version either...
Everyone as he likes, as the saying goes :-)

I hope that I could give the one or the other - who is interested in the topic - a good insight into my feeling :-)

On other sensations I would be very curious :-)
14 Comments
Rosie88 3 years ago 13 10
7
Bottle
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Scent
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Warm fresh soapy familiarity
So when a fragrance has "Cuir" in the name, I always expect a lot.... Much leather to be exact....

Not so with Cuir de Russie (CdR)....
When I spray on CdR, first of all a "fresh-floral-soapy" wind blows against me....
really delicate, fine soap bubbles, something like when you sniff in summer on a line of freshly hung laundry dried by the sun....

In the later course comes with me a creamy note of soft leather added.... But really absolutely fine and discreetly held....

Perhaps as if a cowboy with his "leather-saddled" little horse has scampered through the laundry and has left a gentle briiiiese of his being on the fresh warm laundry...

The scent is sometimes there with me, sometimes it's gone, knocks again, hides again, and so it goes back and forth for a few hours....

Basically I like strong fragrances with a lot of power... CdR has rather little power for my conditions, but a good endurance... That's why I still like him very much... it gives me a feeling of warmth and security.... I like to wear him at home just for me....


10 Comments
Rosie88 3 years ago 19 8
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
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Prejudices bring surprises....
"Cologne" in the name...? nope, definitely too weak for me...
"citrusy-spicy"...? nope, i don't like citrusy scents....

So I left the fragrance when it came to me by chance as a sample and I had a quick look at the fragrance notes here on the forum....
The top note reads for me already horrendous, only citruses, bäääh....

But since I like some other Bortnikoff's very much, I decided, after about 2 weeks of lying around the sample, but to dare a test....

Applied to the arm and expected a "Zitrusion", I was immediately "disappointed" - no full citrus drone.... hmmm, I had too many prejudices against the top note?
Definitely!

At the beginning, M.C. is indeed refreshing with delicate sprinkles of citrus, but at the same time, a beautiful resinous haze comes out on my skin.... delicate, earthy, softly fresh, lightly spicy and mossy... S-A-G-E-N-H-A-F-T-! i'm telling you!

Dry woods and a gentle sweetness follow later....

Blown away and flashed, I stand there now, nose constantly on my arm, unable to let go..... What a scent!

Ok, let's see how it looks with the durability and the charisma - those who know me, know I do not like balmy winds - I like whens bangs and that also like neat and long-lasting...

In the morning at about 7:00 clock thus made up...
After a normal working day, in the evening again the nose ran and lo and behold, M.C. is still there - although not so violently, but still he has survived the day!
Test passed!

Bottle had to her - and now I'm happy to have found a fragrance that actually does not fit from the description in my Beuteschema and yet has a permanent place in my collection - apart from that even one of my favorites has become !

Bortnikoff has it just on it - Chapeau and thank you for this bezauebrnden fragrance!

8 Comments
Rosie88 3 years ago 11 8
7
Scent
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Chocolate site
L' Heure Exquise had been on my watch list for quite some time, so it was all the more pleasing that I got a sample with my last order... :-)

Immediately after spraying on, I am met by a clenched load of dark cocoa, not sweet, but rather dusty and bitter.... a mixture of unsharp and rather dull spices also resonates and I think I smelled aniseed for a short time...?

All very well matched, chocolate-unsweet, dark spicy and a little dry ...

A short time later gently floral tones of jasmine and champaka follow, which bring a wonderful floral twist into it...
But the scent is by no means to be described as floral... he just gets a gentle touch of it with...

In the background a few citrus sprinkles are gently swinging, but this really only very discreetly...

In the later course, smooth oud tones finely round off the composition and give the fragrance a stable hold...

All in all, I would describe the scent as unsweet chocolaty spicy... not quite new, yet beautiful and also well wearable in everyday life. The two oud variations used are kept rather quiet and discreet, absolutely not dirty or ferkelig, which could make the scent interesting for people without a special oud love...

But for me the scent is a little bit too quiet and not enough "indecent"... I would have hoped for a little more mess...
8 Comments
Rosie88 3 years ago 19 10
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Bottle
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Sillage
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Longevity
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Scent
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Direct comparison Oud Maximus Version 2018 & 2019
Finally once again a worthy "opponent" who is worthy of a 1:1 comparison ;-)

Oud Maximus 2018 I got to know through a dear perfume. The version of 2018 is unfortunately sold out and very difficult if not impossible to get hold of.... I am very happy to be the proud owner of this one.
And because I love the fragrance so much, I had to "naturally" get the version from 2019, which is not so easy to get, but after my recent arrival I can call my own (*Joy*)

So now I would like to compare the two versions with each other...
(Left the version 2018 and right the version 2019 sprayed on)

Oud Maximus 2018 begins gently "civet-pissing" (as I also mentioned in my statement), accompanied by a gentle rose and a slightly sweet and tangy orange....
Discreet musk tones appear from time to time and make a wonderful addition....
Gentle spices play along and the ever-present oud in 4 different variations gives an insane kick: a little ferkelig and dirty, but absolutely "bearable", smooth and for me really really cool.... Yeah!
All in all, I would describe the 2018 version as "flowery, orange, oudig"....

Oud Maximus 2019 also begins with gently pissing civet, but here, too, a strongly "oudy" mess comes to light right at the beginning....
In contrast to the 2018 version, I can't catch an orange in the 2019 version, but rather something herbaceous. I really like that here....
And as with the 2018 version, the spices in the 2019 version come out beautifully and gently...
I can also recognize rose in the 2019 version, plus a nice jasmine and light frangipani, which together give the fragrance a little sweetness (discreet)...
The oud in its 4 versions is in my opinion a bit more pronounced in the 2019 version and therefore the floral notes have been scaled back a bit....
Also the always resonating deer musk is clearly recognizable and for me - a little more pronounced than in the 2018 version...
All in all I would describe the 2019 version as "animalistic, oudig, spicy"...

In direct comparison, I find the 2018 version to be somewhat more delicate than the 2019 version.
As far as S&H is concerned, the 2019 version is clearly ahead and has considerably more power and volume.

For me, the 2019 version is a bit nicer, because it is a bit coarser and more massive than the 2018 version. Also because the flower part is a bit reduced - and the oud was turned up a bit...
Nevertheless I do not want to miss either of them....

But try it yourself, I am curious about your opinions :-))

So my dear ones, now you know ;-)
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