Saitenreiter

For a long time I have been looking for perfumes that still satisfy me even after frequent wear and always reveal new facets for me to enjoy.

Because often I had the problem that fragrances, after several times put on, no longer corresponded to my taste or I suddenly perceived fragrances that I did not like at all and I had not noticed before. But this phenomenon will probably know most people here.
This is also the reason why I test each perfume at least four or five times extensively before I am ready to spend a larger sum for it.

Only sometimes, really very rarely I discover a perfume where I am directly sure that I will like the fragrance for a long time later. Examples of this were Widian Black II, Oud save the King and the Rosa Alba loved and praised here by me.

What fascinates me so immensely about this fragrance is the authenticity of the scent notes, the rose smells fantastic and really couldn't have been brought into the composition better.
Meanwhile, it did not turn out too feminine, I always feel good when I ignite this little firework on my skin, it literally tingles in the nose and gives me strength to start the day, certainly through the friendly support of the bergamot and pepper.
Neroli and jasmine kontribuieren to the relaxing yet vitalizing mood of the fragrance. The sandalwood paired with the beeswax grounds the creation and makes it last well. Unfortunately, some perfume lovers do not understand that a fragrance, made exclusively from natural raw materials, can never last as long as an ambroxan club of Dior, brave new world...

Speaking of composition, I find you can feel that Annette composes her artwork like a piece of classical music, it really comes from the heart and not from a computer algorithm that conjures up a chemical bomb, as is the case with almost all the major manufacturers.
De facto, Annette really uses ONLY natural oils and extracts, which is really unique, no one else does that.

I would like to make here no advertisement. However, I was allowed to have the pleasure of looking at her studio when I picked up my Hepster bottle, which I found incredibly interesting and first made me realize how much hard work goes into her work. I was just impressed, each flacon she makes only after order in meticulous handwork.

The prices are really more than reasonable, if you compare them with assembly line goods from Xerjoff or Amouage, to name just two well-known brands (I like some fragrances of these brands, but they are just overpriced beyond measure for what you get offered).
But here you get a pure natural product, which was created with heart and soul and respectful use of natural raw materials.

I bow to this artist, who is still far too unknown in our scene.
But I am convinced that this will soon change and she will be given the attention she deserves for her olfactory works of art.

Thank you for your amazing creations, from the bottom of my heart!

The peridot gemstone, or chrysolite as it is also called, is a particularly pure form of olivite and has a light green to yellow color. So also the fine fragrant water of Olivier Durbano from Grasse.

Its products are meticulously handmade and bottled by the master himself in the world capital of fragrances. Each perfume contains three stone spheres of the mineral around which the theme of the fragrance revolves.

The prelude starts with a well-balanced mixture of spices, I mainly perceive fresh ginger and pepper, but this without becoming scratchy as it can often be the case with such concoctions. After a while, light notes of caraway and rosemary are perfectly rounded off by those of jasmine. I associate Hisop with purity for whatever reason, and that also comes to bear here, I find the fragrance simply smells "clean".

The heart of this perfume is characterized by a salty note mixed with jasmine. Vervain gives the whole thing fresh undertones and therefore, in my opinion, this fragrance is best suited for midsummer and autumn. Sometimes a distant relation to the "Parco Palladiano V: Lauro" comes through for me, whereby I feel this here as more perfect and around some high-quality.

I would describe the perfume as fresh and spicy with sweet undertones. This light sweetness is probably due to the vetiver and musk in the base. At this point, I don't really like vetiver. But here it is so discreet that it supports the overall picture and not so sticky-sweet around the corner, which is often the problem with vetiver fragrances for me. The cedar and ambergris give the whole thing a woody and warm note.

I would settle the durability at 5-6 hours, moreover it stays rather close to the skin. The slope is relatively discreet when compared with e.g. Labradorite #13.

I have found this comment relatively difficult as it is a complex mixture of many natural essences that are not necessarily easy to describe. A fragrance is definitely present, for my nose it goes from herbaceous-fresh to warm-woody, but of course this is only a subjective impression on my part.

If you like natural scents and herbs, this is a definite test recommendation. Unfortunately there is no distribution for these fragrant waters from Durbano in Germany yet, which will hopefully change in the future....

Olivier Durbano's perfume line from Grasse, a real insider tip and really worth testing! Why? You'll find out in the next few lines...

On my holiday in the perfume metropolis in August 2018, I was lucky enough to get to know Olivier and some of his creations. It was an interesting visit and I soon realized that there was more behind these fragrances than just good craftsmanship: pure passion!

Far from marketing and the big "buying hells" that most perfumers have to go to for inspiration, Olivier's studio is located in a small alley leading to the "Place aux Aires", one of the main venues in Grasse. The shop itself looks relatively inconspicuous from the outside, but I became aware of it through the pleasant smell of incense that gently streamed onto the street and of course could not resist to take a look inside. Thanks, nose, you can be relied on!

After a short conversation and some stealthy glances at the collection, which now comprises 13 fragrances, we got down to brass tacks. I said what I liked for notes and first some scents were sprayed on test strips. Labradorites and chrysolites fascinated me directly. The idée behind the perfumes is to capture and olfactorily reproduce the characteristics and smells of the respective stones. Accordingly, behind each of his works is a story that is often closely linked to mythology. For each of his scents the master takes a year time, and you can smell that.

Since 2005, as already mentioned above, 13 creations have been created in this way, all of which are unique and very interesting in their own way. Labradorite starts with Palo-Santo, marjoram and cardamom, which for me is a very idiosyncratic top note that I have never smelled in this form before. Even the oily consistency on the skin shows that this is a very high-quality product, which consists mainly of natural essences. For the animal components, of course, we use replicas because we attach great importance to ethics and sustainability.

The top note dissipates after about 15 minutes and I can easily perceive tuberose, incense and civet. An amazing combination, I think. It reminds me far away of "Kouros" from YSL, but this in top quality and without compromising on raw materials. It's just what it says on the label and no sludge from the laboratory.

After a few hours I smell Zibet, Bibergeil and Oud in the base, all very animalistic and expressive. It's definitely not a pussyfooter and the wearer should also have cojones in his pants, because otherwise, in my opinion, he won't come across authentically. I am only in my mid-twenties, but somehow the scent reminds me of past times and waters that were worn in the 90s and are no longer available... probably because of the down-to-earth mixture of Animalia, incense and woods.

The durability is definitely above average and the Sillage has it all! Care should be taken when dosing, otherwise you could be greedily attacked by strange women (grin).

All those who like animal and woody scents should definitely try this one! The quality speaks for itself, no compromises were made and this can be felt....

That about, is the association when I smell this scent by now.
At first he had convinced me, the first time at the Douglas at the KÖ in Düsseldorf, but soon the bottling fluttered into the house. But on that day, I certainly got about 30-40 scents under my nose and was accordingly scalded.

I liked it very much the first time I tested it, although my fellow men scourged me with wrinkled noses and stupid comments allà "Pooh, is the nose broken again" or "What the hell stinks here so?".
From then on I carried him only in my quiet closet and unfortunately I have to revise my first impression: It smells pretty synthetic-burned...

I always try not to be influenced by other opinions and therefore let my girlfriend try me out to confirm my impression of a fine nose: Burnt milk with synthetic myrrh?

The prelude is extreme and knows no pardon. After a splash, the whole room will be directed to it.
I like the idée in itself, but in my personal opinion the realization was not successful.
He seems imperfect to me, almost as if the perfumer had been urged to give up his project due to time pressure. The smell is in any case high-quality, but it is missing me nevertheless somewhat.

In the course of time it becomes more pleasing and somewhat rounder, but I still can't get the association of something burnt out of my head. Too bad, it could have been...

During my last visit to the Dior-Boutique in Munich I found this little darling.
Of all the scents from La Collection Privée, I like Ambre Nuit even better, I'd like to say beforehand.

What struck me about the fragrances in the above collection is the fact that, in my opinion, really high-quality raw materials are used here.
An authentic Aoud I met until today only in the "The Night" created by Dominique Ropion for Éditions Malle, which costs a proud 1100€ for 100ml... and almost strangled my girlfriend. Well, I can't really blame her either since it's a damn grenade!

For my nose, leather oud patchouli and civet are most present here, but with time the leather takes a back seat and lets resinous woody notes enter the stage.

The Sillage is really extreme. For your understanding: Two hours ago I got 1! Drops made on the wrist and a roommate who came in to the door smelled it at a distance of 5 meters immediately.
Admittedly, he has a fine nose but nevertheless I find this amazing.

In the drydown it reminds me a bit of Oud 27 by Le Labo, only without these slightly fruity notes, whereas the dior appears much higher quality.

Everyone who likes authentic, a little animalistic Aoud should try it out, not to mention Lack&Leder fans!