Salva

The frequency of my reviews is steadily decreasing over time. To be honest, this is partly due to my own laziness in taking the time to write a few more lines. On the other hand, and this is the main reason, I only pay more attention to fragrances that I really like. In my case, these are those that I rate with at least a 9. For all others, I like to use the short statement function. And the more I test, the less likely I am to find a fragrance that is worthy of a review. Especially as I feel I already know everything "great" and "good" (at least that's what I think, but I also know that this isn't really the case). But there are always discoveries that make you feel positive and show that it's worth testing and waiting. And since I came across this fragrance "out of nowhere", it is worth writing a review for it in addition to the statement.

Ralph Lauren is certainly known to most men for the classic polo shirts with the well-known brand logo on the left side of the chest. At least that's how I personally felt until a while ago. During my research, I realized that the label also (logically) produces many other items of clothing and other products. In addition to the latest fashion, there is also a very broad portfolio of lifestyle items, such as furniture, decorations and games. And, of course, the brand also brings out fragrances.
Among the men's fragrances, the green-spicy classic from 1978, which bears the uncomplicated name "Polo (Eau de Toilette) | Ralph Lauren", certainly stands out to this day. No less good in my eyes and also worth a mention is the 1992 classic "Safari for Men (Eau de Toilette) | Ralph Lauren", which is a great tart-green-herbaceous fragrance with a soapy shaving water vibe.
There is also currently a "Polo Earth" series, which includes four fragrances. Three of these ("Polo Earth - Antilles Vetiver | Ralph Lauren" , "Polo Earth - Moroccan Neroli | Ralph Lauren" and "Polo Earth - Provencial Sage | Ralph Lauren" ) were released this year, but the fragrance reviewed here was released last year. And I was very taken with it, because it is a wonderful perfume that I discovered by chance at Karstadt in Düsseldorf and would like to share with you.

"Polo Earth | Ralph Lauren" is declared here as a unisex fragrance and this is 100% true in my eyes. It begins with a wonderful freshness of various hesperides; a conglomerate of citron (cedrat), bergamot, petigrain and mandarin. The top note is therefore a wonderfully fresh, citrusy beginning, which contains a subtly fruity component with a minimal green accord thanks to the petitgrain and mandarin, which is particularly typical of lemon petitgrain
This refreshing beginning is joined by the bright floral heart, in which the orange blossom holds the sceptre in my nose. This blossom resonates throughout the fragrance and is always hidden in the background, but on closer inspection or analysis of the fragrance, the floral heart of the scent is very recognizable. In addition to its fresh citrus aroma, the O blossom is characterized by its vanilla-like, sweet scent, of which little to nothing is discernible to my nose in this fragrance.
At the base, the perfume takes on a clean and slightly soapy accord, which I attribute to the musk mentioned here. I particularly recognize this type of musk note in Narciso Rodriguez fragrances, which gives me a feeling of total cleanliness and I like it very much.

Due to its composition, "Polo Earth | Ralph Lauren" is an excellent candidate for a signature fragrance that can easily be worn by men and women all year round, although it would certainly come into its own in warmer weather. The longevity for a fragrance of this type is to be expected in the medium range; in other words, I perceive it on my skin for about 4-5 hours. In terms of sillage, it is also in the predictable range. It radiates well for the first hour before it slowly but surely recedes. The bottle is quite classic and sits well in the hand. It has an appealing, elongated rectangular shape with a transparent/translucent glass bottle, a wooden lid and a white sticker with green lettering of the name and the typical brand logo on the front.

I can recommend a test to anyone who, like me, likes cologne-like fragrances and has no problems with light floral notes. It's a really great, summery, refreshing, friendly perfume that really makes you want spring and summer. It somehow evokes a morning walk through the forest in late spring, where the first flowers are sprouting and in full bloom, while the wind blows through various trees and time seems to stand still... Where the air and the sun's rays are warm as you walk past mossy cedars that sway gently and exude robust woody notes...

In any case, I am very happy when the first rays of sunshine peep out, so that this treasure can be put to use. After all, alongside "Pour Homme | Grauton Parfums" by dear Schallhoerer, this perfume is my personal discovery of the year, even though, as mentioned, it was released in 2022. And regardless of that, I just wish for sunshine again, because I am anything but a winter child...

With this in mind, I would like to wish everyone a happy new year and all the best for 2024, especially lots of health! And hopefully plenty of sunshine very soon...

Thank you for reading!

Opium Pour Homme EdT

Published in the mid-90s of the last century's, more precisely in 1995. A decade that shaped me very much. School enrollment, first consciously perceived World Cup (1994 in the U.S.), first kiss / first "girlfriend", for the first time by an accident very close to death came... Many first times...

Perfume technically it is also the decade with which I associate the first intense and very most private experiences. Be it "Hugo Boss Bottled", "Armani Acqua di Gio", or "Kenzo Pour Homme". All of them fragrances that I constantly noticed as a child and teenager at the time of their new releases in my environment on relatives, acquaintances, etc.. For that reason alone, I still like them so much. The only thing I never came into contact with was the "YSL Opium Pour Homme". There was no one in my environment who used this perfume.

I was able to get to know it myself last year, but it only moved in some time ago. And what a terrific perfume this is nevertheless...
[...]

Behind the brand - as is usual with designer fragrances - is a fashion designer. Born in Algeria in 1936, the company's founder Yves Mathieu Saint Laurent was considered one of the great exceptional talents in the world of beauty at a young age and was supported on his way especially by his mother. Before opening his own haute couture house in Paris in 1961, he became the youngest ever head designer in 1957 at the age of just 21.

The world of the Yves Saint Laurent brand is marked by extraordinary passion, creativity and imagination. In the fashion world, he had a style-invigorating effect many times and is still considered a luminary today - after his death - especially in the elegant and upscale fashion for the ladies. The success story of the house continues consequently until today...

[...]

Its first fragrance was launched in 1964 with the name "Y" as a women's perfume.

"Opium Pour Homme" on the other hand is in the men's segment Saint Laurent's for me probably one of the best (if not the best) ever and one of those treasures, where I can smell out almost all the notes and recognize a real course.

At the beginning you smell quite clearly the anise note, which is often said to have a licorice-like aroma. And yes, partly I would confirm this. In conjunction with the currant, however, which is perceived quite discreetly in the background, this duo of the top note makes a fresh-spicy aromatic prelude.

The intense spices let the fruity nuance of the currant, however, hardly appear, because they retain the upper hand with the spicy ginger and black pepper in the further course.

To the base, the perfume gets with the so-called. Bourbon vanilla its oriental chord. The name owes the usually known spice vanilla of the island "La Réunion", an overseas department of France's located east of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean, where it comes from and is cultivated. Until 1848, the island was called "Île Bourbon"
This vanilla makes the "Opium pH EdT" a beguiling seducer. Too sweet is the base I find not, because a slightly resinous-woody note I perceive as well, which I attribute to the tolu balsam and cedar.

[...]

Since the weather conditions are now reasonably in line with the season, it is currently often used. Because especially in dingy, wet-cold weather, this perfume gives me a very pleasant protective Wohlfühlaura.

So for the current colder season, I think it is perfectly suited. This kind of fragrances unfold mMn especially in cooler temperatures excellent and fully exploit their potential.

Older versions I have not met until now, so I can not draw any serious comparisons to those. However, the current version is so strong in the durability (9-10 h on my skin) as well as in the sillage, so I assume that this perfume fortunately has probably not fallen victim to any or hardly any reformulations so far.

Except for the cap made of plastic, which comes across a little cheap for my perception, I find the bottle in its narrow elongated shape and generally slightly old-fashioned appearance very nice, which also lies well in the hand. The sprayer is excellent and leaves an excellent scent jet when spraying.

[...]


Conclusion:

Probably very many users already know the fragrance. But those who are very inclined to spicy Orientals with a slight 'oldschool vibe' and have not yet had him under the nose, I would highly recommend this ingenious perfume.

One can expect a distinctive and unique fragrance, which is equipped mMn with a pronounced recognition value and has no equal.
I claim namely that you would always recognize him after the first acquaintance.

An immensely attractive and sensual perfume, which bristles with loud self-confidence only so.

[...]
Thank you to everyone who has followed my words!

My reason for this review is of course my enthusiasm for this wonderfully masculine 1973 perfume. For some time I have namely intended to write a few lines to Paco Rabanne's only men's fragrance (men is deliberately written in capital letters, something about this later). On the other hand, however, my last test of a fragrance from this house has brought the stone to roll, if you like. Because this test was for me, as with eig. (almost) every fragrance of Señor Rabanne, simply for the Katz.

(Note: This was the new release of this year with the crazy name "Phantom" and the even more ingenious bottle ... Who would like to know my opinion to this smell, please once under the statements belonging to this smell read up).

[...]

Well then, who is this Paco Rabanne?

Behind the name is a Basque fashion designer from San Sebastián in the north of Spain, whose real name is Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo and his company "Paco Rabanne SAS" in 1965 fulfilled a dream of independence and which is still on the market today, although since 1987 belongs entirely to the cosmetics group "Puig"

Born in 1934, thus shortly before the Spanish civil war of 1936 - '39, Rabanne grew up however under poor conditions with its mother, who had been active at the time as a dressmaker with the enterprise "Balenciaga S.A." had been active.
To give her son a better future, she fled with him after the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939 to Paris.
"Better future" must be seen here, however, of course relatively, because, as is known, raged or began worldwide at this time the 2nd Great World War...

Despite all circumstances and resistance, however, Rabanne used his chance in France and studied architecture from 1952. Along the way, he pursued his hobby and made the futuristic fashion sketches for famous Parisian houses that were so characteristic of him. He was also enthusiastic about
the Constrictivism and Science Fiction in general.
After graduation, he worked as a freelancer for Cardin and Givenchy. The foundation of his own company then followed - as mentioned - in the mid-1960s...

The international breakthrough, however, he succeeded in 1968 with the costume design of the science fiction feature film "Barbarella", in which he - among other things for Oscar winner Jane Fonda in the leading role - designed the skin-tight catsuit for her.

And along with Yves Saint Laurent, he is still considered one of the most style-defining designers of the 1960s ever.

[...]

If you now look at the fragrances Paco Rabanne's and compare, you quickly find that this 1973 Pour Homme totally out of line, and in the absolutely positive sense, as I find.

And my following description refers to the newer version, because my flacon is from this year.

This begins quite herbaceous-spicy with clearly perceptible clary sage, to which for my nose additional smelling rosemary also contributes. This provides a tart aroma, which provides an overall great herb-fresh-spicy aroma at the beginning. Because this herb-fresh chord keeps the fragrance in the further course, while the herbaceous-spicy withdraws quickly.

Because as soon as the clary sage disappears, I perceive lavender, but only very gently in the background. This provides a - for my sensation - delicate soapy chord. Still dominates but for my nose the rosemary.

To the base, however, this rosemary makes room for the green (oak) moss, which is an essential character of this fragrance. And to the green base can be detected for me a tiny hint of sweet honey in the background, which rounds off the fragrance wonderfully.
Musk or amber I personally do not smell out.

[...]

I personally think a fragrance of this kind is particularly great in spring and autumn applicable. Although you could wear him also (actually) all year round on any occasion without any problems.

With about 5h endurance, my bottle has about an average durability. The sillage is only in the first hour pretty space-filling as I find, after that he becomes increasingly skin.

[...]

Conclusion:

The very most for my gender comrades launched perfumes from the house Rabanne's contain dominant fruity-sweet notes, which are probably ostensibly younger clientele (U 30) to address. However, these are exactly the kind of fragrances, with which I personally could never do anything (not even with U 30).

This expressive Fougère but here rightly carries the epithet Pour Homme, because here is everything that the classic men's heart desires.

Tart-spicy herbs, aromatic-soapy-mossy freshness.

A fragrance for me. For unadulterated classic lovers.

For all who do not blindly follow any trends.

[...]

Thank you for reading!

What is obligatory for every Parfumo member at an airport? That's right, a visit to a duty-free shop.

After my holiday in Turkey, I recently came across this charming EdT. Indeed, at the airport of Istanbul I had a lot of time, because I had checked in (as usual) very early. So I used my time to pursue my passion in the duty free and test fragrances.

I saw the shelves of Hermès first and of course I was immediately drawn there. And when I saw this great bottle of 24 Faubourg, I just thought "Yay, finally I can test it!", because for too long I had had this ladies classic on the agenda.

[...]

I quickly grabbed the bottle and eyed it first. Briskly also a salesman came up to me and wanted to make me nevertheless rather Tom Ford palatable. In his cute English he tried to convince me:
"Sir, this perfume is for women. Let me show you Tom Ford perfumes, best brand ever.... You know Oud Wood?"

Hmm, ok. I smirked and smiled at him:
"I know sir, Tom Ford is the best man in world (He may have realized the irony from my wink).

"But I prefer classical French brands...
And I don't care women, men or alien..."
(There was already a more serious undertone here. From the look on his face, he must have interpreted it that way, too).

Friendly and polite he was nevertheless and he left me then also in peace. So I could test, among other things, this fragrance and was immediately very taken...
(In the corner of my eye, however, I saw how I was watched by him...).

[...]

24 Faubourg EdT exudes that classic charisma I so cherish and love, which I also find so great in women's fragrances. It has nothing youthful or girly about it, but is a thoroughly adult and ladylike fragrance. The prelude already shows with what one has it here on itself, and with a very self-confident and exquisite perfume.

It begins slightly fresh-fruity with for me clearly perceptible bitter and almost "Hermètypical" orange. This comes across very naturally, and like an orange that has been under the sun for quite a long time. I immediately felt good, as if someone would take you in the arm and say "come, everything will be fine...".

As it progresses, the classic floral bouquet takes over. The fragrance becomes floral, and in what I think is already an opulent, but not at all exhausting way. I notice the hyacinth in particular, which gives the perfume a beguilingly intense aroma with a slight sweetness. Every now and then, a hint of jasmine and gardenia fizzes into my nose as well. The fragrance remains but fabulously classic and retains its elegant seriousness.

The whole is rounded off to the base with oriental chords. Amber and vanilla ensure that it retains its sensuality. Here, the flowers also step somewhat into the background, but they never disappear completely. As before, I always get a hint of floral chords with.

[...]

I do not recommend too many sprays with this fragrance, as I think it projects strongly and fills rooms very well. The durability can also be seen on my skin with considerable 8-9 h.

He seems to me personally for cooler days in spring and autumn to be best suited. Discreetly dosed he is in everyday life just as well usable I think as for the evening hours, where I see him best.

[...]

After some time the salesman returned:
"Sir, you really like French perfumes. You only tested those ones. Here you have some samples... Have a good flight..."

In fact, he gave me a small bag with many different samples, including two of the 24 Faubourg EdT. Of course, I had zero expectation of this. How I was pleased...
I thanked of course artfully and left with a wide grin the store...

[...]

Conclusion:

My holiday was wonderful. Istanbul is a breathtaking city and I can only highly recommend it to everyone on occasion to visit. And that I was still so spoiled with this little sample gift, was so seen the icing on the cake.

Finally, I could test 24 Faubourg, whose name, by the way, goes back to the address of the headquarters of Hermès in Paris, namely 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. There is it also in each case in the EdP as well as perfume concentration, which I do not know both, however.

The EdT but is a beautiful, floral and slightly oriental, classic women's fragrance, which radiates an elegant, attractive and feminine aura with a lot of sparkle.

And when the enchantingly beautiful and style assured former Princess Diana (may the Lord rest her soul) called this fragrance one of her favorites, I think "yes, to a lady like her, it suits her perfectly..."
(to be read, by the way, in the book "Royal Duty" by Paul Burrell, her former butler, among others).

[...]

Thanks for reading!

Chanel is one of the brands that I personally count among my "Les Indispensables".

To this day, I have not smelled a fragrance from the house, which I did not like.

As you know, there is the Bleu range, of which I owned the EdP for a long time. All three variants are certainly very good in their own way and with none one does in principle something wrong.
Then there is the Allure series, of which I also find many very good and in which you can definitely find among all the flankers.
In addition, there is the Pour Monsieur, which is almost a "must" as EdT or EdP for classic lovers.

All these fragrances have one thing in common: From the basic equipment they are primarily fresh.

In addition, the 80s powerhouse fragrance Antaeus is also available, which certainly (rightly) has its fans. But I personally do not like to wear it, although I consider it very well done.

[...]

But quite different is this Égoïste. Man, what a name...

In the research for my reviews, I also always try to find out something about the name of a fragrance, among other things. Personally, I'm not just interested in the smell, but the big picture. Something specific I did not find out regarding the naming, but master perfumer Jacques Polge will have already thought of something.

Because if you call a fragrance so, then something great must inevitably come around. And it is also how I find. He smells just very different from all other men's Chanel. As if he wants to say "look, I am the way I am. You either like me or you don't."
And like someone who is self-aware and doesn't have to prove anything to anyone. An "egoist" just that...

I actually - for whatever reason - left it out for too long before blind ordering it a few months ago. And I experienced one of those moments that I love so much in this hobby; I smelled the spray head and knew: Oh yes, this is phenomenal! That's what happened to me with Égoïste EdT. And yet, this didn't surprise me, because among the warmer notes, cinnamon is one of the ones I favor the most.

[...]

The fragrance starts very intensely with a fresh and slightly fruity mandarin note, which is however enveloped by clearly perceptible coriander, which provides for a bitter-spicy and sage-like impact. I can well imagine that just this beginning does not appeal to every nose. Because it comes mMn not suitable for the masses. I find the beginning but already excellent, because he has something independent and expressive in itself.

But after a short time, the tangerine with the coriander withdraws and makes room for the cinnamon note, which I like so much and also perceive here. This is how I find already dominant, but it is not too strong and sweet as in other cinnamon-heavy perfumes (eg Calvin Klein's Obsession EdT), because it is made at the same time by a floral chord, which I attribute to the rose, somewhat milder and gentler and is thus harmoniously and perfectly integrated with each other. From this phase onwards, I find the fragrance to be very sensual and elegant. This famose cinnamon rose combination I have namely not been allowed to experience until now in any other fragrance.

Towards the base, the fragrance gets with the sandalwood and vanilla an additional touch of Orient with woody undertone missed.

[...]

Despite its at first sight appearing warm character, you can undoubtedly wear it - except probably in high summer - all year round.

My bottle is from this year, as mentioned. Its durability is with about 6-7 h on my skin for me personally more than satisfactory.
Despite its rather warmer aura, it does not project all too strongly, but this suits me personally. In the first 1 - 1.5 h nehm I still perceive a sillage cloud, before he is still intensely perceptible for the remaining 4-5 h directly on the skin.


Conclusion:

I have smelled and tested all the men Chanels known to me. Besides the Pour Monsieur I personally consider the Égoïste EdT as the best men's fragrance from the house. What was created here already resembles mMn almost an olfactory unique master creation.

This fragrance manages to be classic, but without "old-fashioned" (I do not like this term, therefore in quotes) to act and at the same time so sensual-elegant in its own way as hardly any other fragrance known to me.

Who wears Égoïste, wants to make a statement and does first and foremost itself a favor.

A fascinating perfume with a most exciting name, which I would not want to miss in my collection.

[...]

Thank you for reading!