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153 days ago
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The New Cool Crowd - INTUITIVELY OBVIOUS TO THE CASUAL NOSE, 2

The other day I made my first trip to a Sephora perfume room and, sniffing randomly, realized my nose was rapidly closing. Most were new or current offerings from well known houses. I left, not buying anything or even requesting samples (didn't know I was capable of that).

There's something new afoot in perfumery, folks. Perhaps you already know, but my mind just identified what my nose has been reporting. I'm talking the likes of:

Cuir Cuba Intense by Patricia de Nicolaï -- starring Licorice, Geranium and Tobacco

New Sibet by Slumberhouse -- starring Ash and Iris

Voyage by Hiram Green -- starring (he won't tell us more) Citrus, Amber, Suede and Vanilla

White Peacock Lily by D.S. & Durga - starring Oleander, Lily cream and Fog


I await with bated breath "Maai" by Bogue which has, reportedly, resurrected and mesmerizingly modernized the oriental-chypre accord of old (think Diva, Bal à Versailles). EDIT: Maai absolutely goes on the list of the new, gorgeous ones. It just blew me away.

Also in this category is the Spanish house of Ramon Monegal, which produced my current signature, an indolic divinity of white florals called "Kiss My Name".

These are pass-out-on-the-floor-unconscious-level lovely perfumes composed of mostly natural and other high-quality ingredients. And they're ALL from small houses. The big houses seem to have abandoned us (not Creed), crossed over into the synthetic badlands of perfume, not caring about our noses anymore.


Is it a conspiracy? Have those who make synthetics conspired to legally prevent us from ever smelling real rose again, real Jasmine? Is it because synthetics are cheaper than natural ingredients? Have perfumers at major houses gone nose blind?

Whatever the reason, there's a new cool crowd, a new aesthetic, new creativity bursting forth and they're dancing on the ceiling, folks. They're creating fascinating, yet-to-be-named genres. I'm wearing a spot of each of the first four on my arms and smelling them is like getting drunk on successive sips of fine Champagnes: a Ruinart, a Krug, a Veuve Clicquot, a Dom Perignon.

I know I'm missing other niche stand-outs in my collection. When I locate more, I'll post an update.

Since I still seek the glorious reek and only that, I'm falling in love, more and more with this new, cool crowd. Time to back up and test everything out of de Nicolaï and D.S. & Durga since my sniff fests of them and identify other small houses that may be walking upside down on the ceiling.

Thank goodness someone is filling the vacuum many of the big houses left (not Creed).


p.s. Though neither is actually new, add (be still my heart) Serge Lutens and Roja Dove, (both splendid) to my list of adored ones.