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Classic fragrance, modern interpretation
The fragrance house bdk Parfums is a relatively young fragrance label and has in the now 5 years of existence still a pleasingly clear fragrance portfolio.
The founder David Benedek, born in 1989 in Paris, has always had contact with the fragrance universe, as his grandparents, who immigrated from Transylvania to France in the 50s, were among the first who were allowed to sell fragrances by Dior or Worth in Paris at that time, initially still targeted at tourists.
In the 60s, they then opened their first own boutique for perfumes and exclusive cosmetic products. The expertise was always passed on in the family.
After studying economics and management, David Benedek moved to the Institut Français de la Mode to acquire further knowledge in cosmetics and perfumery and to pursue the passion for fragrances even more thoroughly.
From this could then actually also only an own enterprise develop. One that has a very sympathetic effect on me.
Very pleasant I find, for example, the website of the company, which is limited to essentials and does not want to bezirzen the consumer with convoluted advertising promises and other dubious statements.
In collaboration with various perfumers then emerged over time different fragrances that want to meet different tastes.
About flowery-fresh, about fruity to oriental hints everything is represented.
Me Rouge Tuxedo and Gris Charnel have remained in good memory, even Crème de Cuir has left a good impression as a leather scent (which I usually rather reject).
Now comes another fragrance, French Bouquet, to which I would like to write a few lines.
The name French Bouquet is not chosen entirely by chance. On the one hand, it alludes to its origin and on the other hand, one would like to lean with French Bouquet to the classic French luxury perfumery.
Already at the first test, I noticed a note that is clearly reminiscent of one of the most famous fragrances ever. Immediately in the top note is already a large surge of aldehydes to make out. This unmistakable scent of soap, a hint of freshly blown out candle and a clear wax note.
For this, the fragrance with the so unspectacular name Dodecanal is responsible, which gives the N°5 of Chanel its so unmistakable character.
I would like to claim that one wanted to create here a tribute to this Dauerbrenner.
Now French Bouquet is by no means a fragrance twin of Chanel N°5, it goes its own way. But a certain kindred spirit I can not deny.
In addition to the waxy note, there is also a slightly greasy impression. These greasy notes often bother me because they usually seem quite unclean or even grungy. I've noticed that in some fragrances that contain a lot of musk in the base.
This is different here, the slightly greasy impression occurs at the beginning and underlines the waxy and does not seem unpleasant at all.
Floral it then continues, white flowers and rose, although none of the flowers pushes out too dominant, as they are quite densely connected. At most, jasmine comes out here and there a little. But here one has taken the friendly jasmine variant.
In the later course, some wood, patchouli, a little tobacco and a slightly resinous undertone make themselves felt. Thus, the fragrance gets a little extra depth.
From then on, at the latest, it is clearly noticeable that French Bouquet and N°5 clearly separate from each other, since French Bouquet is much spicier in the base and leaves a warmer impression. N°5 always seems rather cool to me and less spicy.
A slight sweetness pervades the fragrance without ever seeming intrusive.
The fragrance has a very good durability and presence, 8-9 hours are well in and at the beginning it is also very good to perceive. After about 2 hours, the scent then retreats, but is close to the body still good to smell.
With the classification here as a unisex fragrance would possibly be a certain need for discussion, since many would probably rather sort it into the ladies department. I leave such categorizations but like to disregard.
It may be worn, what pleases best and with which one feels comfortable.
French Bouquet has for me a nostalgic touch, the deliberately classic-timeless orientation, the reference to a fragrance classic, which is in this year 100 years on the market, emphasize this nostalgia additionally.
Since modern raw materials are used here, a certain synthetic touch hovers over the fragrance, but since I consider the synthetics to be well processed, I can't nag here.
A word about availability:
French Bouquet was apparently originally and exclusively created for Harrods, as was Tabac Rose, but now appears to be available for regular order, although it was not when I last looked on the website.
My conclusion:
French Bouquet is a successful fragrance, whose direction, floral-spicy with lots of aldehydes is certainly not Everybody's Darling.
In my collection he will not make it, but he leaves a very good impression and the brand bdk-Parfums I wish continued success.
The founder David Benedek, born in 1989 in Paris, has always had contact with the fragrance universe, as his grandparents, who immigrated from Transylvania to France in the 50s, were among the first who were allowed to sell fragrances by Dior or Worth in Paris at that time, initially still targeted at tourists.
In the 60s, they then opened their first own boutique for perfumes and exclusive cosmetic products. The expertise was always passed on in the family.
After studying economics and management, David Benedek moved to the Institut Français de la Mode to acquire further knowledge in cosmetics and perfumery and to pursue the passion for fragrances even more thoroughly.
From this could then actually also only an own enterprise develop. One that has a very sympathetic effect on me.
Very pleasant I find, for example, the website of the company, which is limited to essentials and does not want to bezirzen the consumer with convoluted advertising promises and other dubious statements.
In collaboration with various perfumers then emerged over time different fragrances that want to meet different tastes.
About flowery-fresh, about fruity to oriental hints everything is represented.
Me Rouge Tuxedo and Gris Charnel have remained in good memory, even Crème de Cuir has left a good impression as a leather scent (which I usually rather reject).
Now comes another fragrance, French Bouquet, to which I would like to write a few lines.
The name French Bouquet is not chosen entirely by chance. On the one hand, it alludes to its origin and on the other hand, one would like to lean with French Bouquet to the classic French luxury perfumery.
Already at the first test, I noticed a note that is clearly reminiscent of one of the most famous fragrances ever. Immediately in the top note is already a large surge of aldehydes to make out. This unmistakable scent of soap, a hint of freshly blown out candle and a clear wax note.
For this, the fragrance with the so unspectacular name Dodecanal is responsible, which gives the N°5 of Chanel its so unmistakable character.
I would like to claim that one wanted to create here a tribute to this Dauerbrenner.
Now French Bouquet is by no means a fragrance twin of Chanel N°5, it goes its own way. But a certain kindred spirit I can not deny.
In addition to the waxy note, there is also a slightly greasy impression. These greasy notes often bother me because they usually seem quite unclean or even grungy. I've noticed that in some fragrances that contain a lot of musk in the base.
This is different here, the slightly greasy impression occurs at the beginning and underlines the waxy and does not seem unpleasant at all.
Floral it then continues, white flowers and rose, although none of the flowers pushes out too dominant, as they are quite densely connected. At most, jasmine comes out here and there a little. But here one has taken the friendly jasmine variant.
In the later course, some wood, patchouli, a little tobacco and a slightly resinous undertone make themselves felt. Thus, the fragrance gets a little extra depth.
From then on, at the latest, it is clearly noticeable that French Bouquet and N°5 clearly separate from each other, since French Bouquet is much spicier in the base and leaves a warmer impression. N°5 always seems rather cool to me and less spicy.
A slight sweetness pervades the fragrance without ever seeming intrusive.
The fragrance has a very good durability and presence, 8-9 hours are well in and at the beginning it is also very good to perceive. After about 2 hours, the scent then retreats, but is close to the body still good to smell.
With the classification here as a unisex fragrance would possibly be a certain need for discussion, since many would probably rather sort it into the ladies department. I leave such categorizations but like to disregard.
It may be worn, what pleases best and with which one feels comfortable.
French Bouquet has for me a nostalgic touch, the deliberately classic-timeless orientation, the reference to a fragrance classic, which is in this year 100 years on the market, emphasize this nostalgia additionally.
Since modern raw materials are used here, a certain synthetic touch hovers over the fragrance, but since I consider the synthetics to be well processed, I can't nag here.
A word about availability:
French Bouquet was apparently originally and exclusively created for Harrods, as was Tabac Rose, but now appears to be available for regular order, although it was not when I last looked on the website.
My conclusion:
French Bouquet is a successful fragrance, whose direction, floral-spicy with lots of aldehydes is certainly not Everybody's Darling.
In my collection he will not make it, but he leaves a very good impression and the brand bdk-Parfums I wish continued success.
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Creed yet quite different
At the request of many a single person, I would like to get in touch with a somewhat longer description of a fragrance. once again
If a fragrance triggers the greatest enthusiasm in me, then I think he should not be fobbed off with just a statement. And beyond that, nothing has been written here for over 5 years.
So now that the cobwebs have been carefully removed from this page, I would like to reveal my opinion on Irisia to the general criticism.
The fragrance house Creed is here at Parfumo really in all mouth or nose. Daily ghosts almost mantra-like a certain magical and sacred fragrance through forum, ticker and discussion rounds. A fragrance that is said to have mysterious properties and that is meanwhile revered like an icon. Which admittedly alienates me a little.
Until some time ago, I was not aware that there is besides the big A still a much wider range of fragrances at Creed, because apart from the big A hardly other fragrances find mention.
Maybe a spray of Himalaya or a touch of Green Irish Tweed. At best still a Hub Virgin Island Water, but that's it.
Nevertheless, Creed offers a fairly large fragrance assortment, ranging from classic to modern and most tastes very well just.
The house Creed was originally founded in 1760 and was initially a tailor shop. A special name was made in the 19th century as a court supplier of the English royal family. In addition, the European aristocracy, including Queen Victoria or Napoleon III together with his wife Eugénie, counted among the regular customers
The history of the Dufthauses lies however a little in the dark, because so completely exactly publications are not documented and the actual and well-known success history begins only in the middle of the 80's with Green Irish Tweed
It can be assumed that the very early published fragrances were produced only in very small editions and were personally intended for the prominent clientele.
In 1968 came now Irisia on the market. From this fragrance came to me now a taster sample in the hands. And I am delighted in the highest degree.
Irisia is a beautifully designed fragrance that has the classic features of a true chypres. A citrusy top note, a floral heart and a mossy-woody base, which is all around still seasoned with fine spice.
With Irisia one has kept exactly to the basic recipe. However, one has dispensed here with a clear animal component in the base (eg ambergris or castoreum).
In the prelude, beautiful citrus notes appear, the tart bergamot and a little tangerine mix with. Shortly thereafter, the florals make an appearance. They are closely interwoven, none emerges really dominant. The interplay harmonizes beautifully. A slight green tinge is contributed by some galbanum. It is not much, since it is not as tone-setting as in other green chypre fragrances, but this typical green note is noticeable.
As it progresses, I notice amber and oakmoss, which is what gives the chypre scents their appropriate notes in the first place. Musk ensures, however, with a fine soapy subnote that no great creak comes up at all.
And some woody notes I recognize still in the fragrance, which additionally round off a little and give shape.
What I find interesting about Irisia: Although it is a chypre fragrance of the 60s and in this time already quite tart and dry chypre fragrances were on the market, I feel Irisia in no way as bulky or even particularly knarzig.
The fragrance seems overall rather cool to me, but it makes a thoroughly friendly impression. Here, even those who have rather difficulty with Chypre could find an access.
The whole thing has a surprisingly good durability and is anything but intrusive even with one or two sprays more.
Irisia is classified as a women's fragrance, but since it is generally known that I like and often disregard these classifications, I am also here of the opinion that the fragrance also works very well on men.
And I find him great. But why "only" a 9.5 and not the 10?
Because in terms of class, complexity, recognition value and perfection, it does not quite reach masterpieces such as Parure, Dioressence or even Fendi Donna, which are superior to Irisia in exactly these points.
But that should in no way dampen the enthusiasm. Irisia has everything that an excellent fragrance needs. And here again it shows: Earlier was more tinsel.
Only, once again, the joy has a catch.... Because Irisia is no longer around. I can not say when the fragrance was taken off the market, but it is a great pity.
I put the fragrance on my wishlist once. I will not chase him, because I am chypretechnisch now more than well equipped. But who knows...
I thank Anarlan very much for this great fragrance experience and the evil Anfixerei and thank you for reading :-))
If a fragrance triggers the greatest enthusiasm in me, then I think he should not be fobbed off with just a statement. And beyond that, nothing has been written here for over 5 years.
So now that the cobwebs have been carefully removed from this page, I would like to reveal my opinion on Irisia to the general criticism.
The fragrance house Creed is here at Parfumo really in all mouth or nose. Daily ghosts almost mantra-like a certain magical and sacred fragrance through forum, ticker and discussion rounds. A fragrance that is said to have mysterious properties and that is meanwhile revered like an icon. Which admittedly alienates me a little.
Until some time ago, I was not aware that there is besides the big A still a much wider range of fragrances at Creed, because apart from the big A hardly other fragrances find mention.
Maybe a spray of Himalaya or a touch of Green Irish Tweed. At best still a Hub Virgin Island Water, but that's it.
Nevertheless, Creed offers a fairly large fragrance assortment, ranging from classic to modern and most tastes very well just.
The house Creed was originally founded in 1760 and was initially a tailor shop. A special name was made in the 19th century as a court supplier of the English royal family. In addition, the European aristocracy, including Queen Victoria or Napoleon III together with his wife Eugénie, counted among the regular customers
The history of the Dufthauses lies however a little in the dark, because so completely exactly publications are not documented and the actual and well-known success history begins only in the middle of the 80's with Green Irish Tweed
It can be assumed that the very early published fragrances were produced only in very small editions and were personally intended for the prominent clientele.
In 1968 came now Irisia on the market. From this fragrance came to me now a taster sample in the hands. And I am delighted in the highest degree.
Irisia is a beautifully designed fragrance that has the classic features of a true chypres. A citrusy top note, a floral heart and a mossy-woody base, which is all around still seasoned with fine spice.
With Irisia one has kept exactly to the basic recipe. However, one has dispensed here with a clear animal component in the base (eg ambergris or castoreum).
In the prelude, beautiful citrus notes appear, the tart bergamot and a little tangerine mix with. Shortly thereafter, the florals make an appearance. They are closely interwoven, none emerges really dominant. The interplay harmonizes beautifully. A slight green tinge is contributed by some galbanum. It is not much, since it is not as tone-setting as in other green chypre fragrances, but this typical green note is noticeable.
As it progresses, I notice amber and oakmoss, which is what gives the chypre scents their appropriate notes in the first place. Musk ensures, however, with a fine soapy subnote that no great creak comes up at all.
And some woody notes I recognize still in the fragrance, which additionally round off a little and give shape.
What I find interesting about Irisia: Although it is a chypre fragrance of the 60s and in this time already quite tart and dry chypre fragrances were on the market, I feel Irisia in no way as bulky or even particularly knarzig.
The fragrance seems overall rather cool to me, but it makes a thoroughly friendly impression. Here, even those who have rather difficulty with Chypre could find an access.
The whole thing has a surprisingly good durability and is anything but intrusive even with one or two sprays more.
Irisia is classified as a women's fragrance, but since it is generally known that I like and often disregard these classifications, I am also here of the opinion that the fragrance also works very well on men.
And I find him great. But why "only" a 9.5 and not the 10?
Because in terms of class, complexity, recognition value and perfection, it does not quite reach masterpieces such as Parure, Dioressence or even Fendi Donna, which are superior to Irisia in exactly these points.
But that should in no way dampen the enthusiasm. Irisia has everything that an excellent fragrance needs. And here again it shows: Earlier was more tinsel.
Only, once again, the joy has a catch.... Because Irisia is no longer around. I can not say when the fragrance was taken off the market, but it is a great pity.
I put the fragrance on my wishlist once. I will not chase him, because I am chypretechnisch now more than well equipped. But who knows...
I thank Anarlan very much for this great fragrance experience and the evil Anfixerei and thank you for reading :-))
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Copy in oil
Recently, I received a rather extensive package with 16 perfume oils from El Nabil.
The badge didn't tell me anything until then. The name suggests a manufacturer of Arabic origin.
After some research on the website and the WWW this does not seem to be the case. Here at Parfumo it is stated that the company is from France, but on the website the head office is stated as Birmingham/UK.
Whether Arab hands and noses are really behind it, could not be determined.
El Nabil is very secretive about information and names.
You advertise with the slogan "Luxury for Everyone". After looking at the entire range of products I could see a whole spectrum of products, from perfumes, cosmetics to room fragrances, a quite broad spectrum is offered.
And this even at very moderate to low prices.
After extensive testing of the perfume oils I could find out, that El Nabil is very much based on well-known and popular fragrances or even copies them.
None of this is new, of course. When a fragrance is successful and sells well, others like to jump on the bandwagon.
I was able to unmask one or the other fragrance twin and also found out that one has copied quite well.
The perfume oils do not smell cheap or inferior despite the really low prices. And some of them even last longer than the originals.
I'm a little stuck on Musc Sicile now. I could quickly find out that this is a well made copy of the quite popular Black Opium Eau de Parfums.
I don't like Black Opium and I don't like Musc Sicile
The opening is the same for both fragrances, fruity sweetness, followed by white flowers, vanilla and at most a hint of spice. All of this is also sugary-sweet
Coffee should also still be available, but I cannot find it. Also with Black Opium there is not too much coffee available, it is rather a little coffee
No big deal, I'd rather drink coffee than spray it on myself anyway
But in the further course of time, Musc Sicile and Black Opium then separate.
The Musc Sicile also develops a rather distinct musky note, which additionally spoils the already not so pleasant scent. This musk note becomes unpleasantly unclean and grubby, somehow greasy. Even sugary sweetness and flowers don't save anything anymore.
In itself I have nothing against musk in moderate doses, but here they have really overdone it.
Therefore, Black Opium has received one point more than this fragrance.
However, El Nabil YSL is superior in terms of durability. While Black Opium fizzles out after only a few hours, Musc Sicile easily stays on for 9-10 hours. The oily base provides the longer durability. Musc Sicile stays altogether closer to the skin, which is a big advantage with some fragrances.
I don't think much of perfume oils, the consistency and film on the skin bothers me. And I don't believe in that kind of scent. But I don't consider myself a target group, even if I don't usually shy away from the ladies' department
None of the oils will find their way to me, cheap price or not and even if some of them are really good.
But for testing I find all this very interesting.
And about the subject of copying I will not go into further detail, a lot has already been said about this.
I would like to thank Mrs. and Mr. A. from B. for the testing opportunities!
And now I make myself another coffee, a real one, hand filtered, without sugary sweetness.
The badge didn't tell me anything until then. The name suggests a manufacturer of Arabic origin.
After some research on the website and the WWW this does not seem to be the case. Here at Parfumo it is stated that the company is from France, but on the website the head office is stated as Birmingham/UK.
Whether Arab hands and noses are really behind it, could not be determined.
El Nabil is very secretive about information and names.
You advertise with the slogan "Luxury for Everyone". After looking at the entire range of products I could see a whole spectrum of products, from perfumes, cosmetics to room fragrances, a quite broad spectrum is offered.
And this even at very moderate to low prices.
After extensive testing of the perfume oils I could find out, that El Nabil is very much based on well-known and popular fragrances or even copies them.
None of this is new, of course. When a fragrance is successful and sells well, others like to jump on the bandwagon.
I was able to unmask one or the other fragrance twin and also found out that one has copied quite well.
The perfume oils do not smell cheap or inferior despite the really low prices. And some of them even last longer than the originals.
I'm a little stuck on Musc Sicile now. I could quickly find out that this is a well made copy of the quite popular Black Opium Eau de Parfums.
I don't like Black Opium and I don't like Musc Sicile
The opening is the same for both fragrances, fruity sweetness, followed by white flowers, vanilla and at most a hint of spice. All of this is also sugary-sweet
Coffee should also still be available, but I cannot find it. Also with Black Opium there is not too much coffee available, it is rather a little coffee
No big deal, I'd rather drink coffee than spray it on myself anyway
But in the further course of time, Musc Sicile and Black Opium then separate.
The Musc Sicile also develops a rather distinct musky note, which additionally spoils the already not so pleasant scent. This musk note becomes unpleasantly unclean and grubby, somehow greasy. Even sugary sweetness and flowers don't save anything anymore.
In itself I have nothing against musk in moderate doses, but here they have really overdone it.
Therefore, Black Opium has received one point more than this fragrance.
However, El Nabil YSL is superior in terms of durability. While Black Opium fizzles out after only a few hours, Musc Sicile easily stays on for 9-10 hours. The oily base provides the longer durability. Musc Sicile stays altogether closer to the skin, which is a big advantage with some fragrances.
I don't think much of perfume oils, the consistency and film on the skin bothers me. And I don't believe in that kind of scent. But I don't consider myself a target group, even if I don't usually shy away from the ladies' department
None of the oils will find their way to me, cheap price or not and even if some of them are really good.
But for testing I find all this very interesting.
And about the subject of copying I will not go into further detail, a lot has already been said about this.
I would like to thank Mrs. and Mr. A. from B. for the testing opportunities!
And now I make myself another coffee, a real one, hand filtered, without sugary sweetness.
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Warm spicy fixed size without tralala
There are scents that can be exhausting, demanding and sometimes overstraining for some of us. Too loud, too confused, hardly wearable in everyday life.
But there are also fragrances that are the exact opposite of this and simply have a soothing effect because they are pleasantly and harmoniously composed and never attract unpleasant attention.
There were times when people created no-frills fragrances according to classic knitting patterns.
This also includes many a fragrance from the traditional house Hermès.
Hermès was founded in 1837 as a shop for saddles, bridles and other harnesses for horses. Later, other leather goods such as suitcases and handbags were added. Over the years Hermès developed into a luxury goods company with prèt-à-porter, watches, jewellery, porcelain and since 1951 also perfumes.
The company logo with the company carriage, which has been in use since the beginning of the 50s, reminds us of its origins.
After a few eventful years with ups and downs, the company went public in 1993. In 2014, it achieved sales of 4.11 billion euros.
A bitter aftertaste to me is the information that the big luxury goods company LVMH (under whose control Dior and Guerlain are among others) tried to make a hostile take-over by buying large amounts of shares, but this could be prevented by a few moves by the Hermès family. The competition and the pressure to succeed on the market must be immense.
But this is an occasion for me to think a little about the huge corporations. And greed and the constant urge for more and more are not good qualities.
The fragrance Equipage came on the market in 1970 and is for me the epitome of a men's fragrance based on the classic model.
Citrus notes at the opening, floral and spicy notes accompany, woody and mossy chords form the supporting base
This shows once again how much I am fond of fragrances with a chyprech character. The rather serious nature of the chypre is also present in Equipage, but chypres don't have to be too cheerful either.
And Equipage has a very warm heart because of its spicy notes
When I think of the perfumer to go with it, I'm not surprised that the fragrance has caused me great enthusiasm. Guy Robert, whose fragrance portfolio, though not very extensive, is remarkable. He created not only Calèche for Hermès, another great chypre, but also Dioressence, for me the most perfect and beautiful chypre of all.
So the start of Equipage is already classic, with light citrus notes, a certain touch of soap and a portion of spice. In the course of time, floral notes become noticeable, but they don't really stand out, they just provide a certain lightness. At best, the carnation is a bit more noticeable.
Later it becomes a little woody-moossy, the basic structure of a chypre fragrance is clearly recognizable. A good pinch of cinnamon was sprinkled over everything, which underlines the warm character
On the one hand, the fragrance seems rather serious to me, but on the other hand it is paired with a lightness that is hard to describe.
Equipage is not a fragrance that screams loudly and wants to attract attention with an exuberant veil of scent. For me, these are also no real quality characteristics. The soft tones that are struck here, the unobtrusive presence and the restraint fit much better to the fragrance and also to me.
And the fragrance is not exhausting, never becomes obtrusive or heavy, is never too much and radiates a wonderful mature elegance. A beautiful haven of peace, which is so good in such unpleasant and confused times like the present one.
After I got a sample of the beautiful scent in my hands some time ago and after a long time I could smell this scent again, I considered to buy Equipage as vintage. Because in the unreformulated version the scent is the decisive note of beautiful, full-bodied and round. The reworking is good, but it lacks some of the essential qualities and ingredients that make vintage versions so special. Genuine oakmoss and other essences that are either frowned upon today or no longer available.
For those who like to enjoy a little peace and quiet away from the loud and sometimes exhausting modern creations, Equipage is highly recommended. This fragrance gets by without a lot of fuss and doesn't need to prove anything to anyone and doesn't need hypes. Because it does not need it.
In retrospect, I thank Pollita very much for the rehearsal and for the fact that I could refresh and deepen an old acquaintance.
But there are also fragrances that are the exact opposite of this and simply have a soothing effect because they are pleasantly and harmoniously composed and never attract unpleasant attention.
There were times when people created no-frills fragrances according to classic knitting patterns.
This also includes many a fragrance from the traditional house Hermès.
Hermès was founded in 1837 as a shop for saddles, bridles and other harnesses for horses. Later, other leather goods such as suitcases and handbags were added. Over the years Hermès developed into a luxury goods company with prèt-à-porter, watches, jewellery, porcelain and since 1951 also perfumes.
The company logo with the company carriage, which has been in use since the beginning of the 50s, reminds us of its origins.
After a few eventful years with ups and downs, the company went public in 1993. In 2014, it achieved sales of 4.11 billion euros.
A bitter aftertaste to me is the information that the big luxury goods company LVMH (under whose control Dior and Guerlain are among others) tried to make a hostile take-over by buying large amounts of shares, but this could be prevented by a few moves by the Hermès family. The competition and the pressure to succeed on the market must be immense.
But this is an occasion for me to think a little about the huge corporations. And greed and the constant urge for more and more are not good qualities.
The fragrance Equipage came on the market in 1970 and is for me the epitome of a men's fragrance based on the classic model.
Citrus notes at the opening, floral and spicy notes accompany, woody and mossy chords form the supporting base
This shows once again how much I am fond of fragrances with a chyprech character. The rather serious nature of the chypre is also present in Equipage, but chypres don't have to be too cheerful either.
And Equipage has a very warm heart because of its spicy notes
When I think of the perfumer to go with it, I'm not surprised that the fragrance has caused me great enthusiasm. Guy Robert, whose fragrance portfolio, though not very extensive, is remarkable. He created not only Calèche for Hermès, another great chypre, but also Dioressence, for me the most perfect and beautiful chypre of all.
So the start of Equipage is already classic, with light citrus notes, a certain touch of soap and a portion of spice. In the course of time, floral notes become noticeable, but they don't really stand out, they just provide a certain lightness. At best, the carnation is a bit more noticeable.
Later it becomes a little woody-moossy, the basic structure of a chypre fragrance is clearly recognizable. A good pinch of cinnamon was sprinkled over everything, which underlines the warm character
On the one hand, the fragrance seems rather serious to me, but on the other hand it is paired with a lightness that is hard to describe.
Equipage is not a fragrance that screams loudly and wants to attract attention with an exuberant veil of scent. For me, these are also no real quality characteristics. The soft tones that are struck here, the unobtrusive presence and the restraint fit much better to the fragrance and also to me.
And the fragrance is not exhausting, never becomes obtrusive or heavy, is never too much and radiates a wonderful mature elegance. A beautiful haven of peace, which is so good in such unpleasant and confused times like the present one.
After I got a sample of the beautiful scent in my hands some time ago and after a long time I could smell this scent again, I considered to buy Equipage as vintage. Because in the unreformulated version the scent is the decisive note of beautiful, full-bodied and round. The reworking is good, but it lacks some of the essential qualities and ingredients that make vintage versions so special. Genuine oakmoss and other essences that are either frowned upon today or no longer available.
For those who like to enjoy a little peace and quiet away from the loud and sometimes exhausting modern creations, Equipage is highly recommended. This fragrance gets by without a lot of fuss and doesn't need to prove anything to anyone and doesn't need hypes. Because it does not need it.
In retrospect, I thank Pollita very much for the rehearsal and for the fact that I could refresh and deepen an old acquaintance.
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He who nags must also be able to praise
Recently a small hiking package came to me, among others there were 9 fragrances of the still quite young fragrance label Miguel Matos in it.
Miguel Matos comes from Portugal, has been a perfume critic on Fragrantica since 2013 and has also been working as a perfumer for several years. What is astonishing is that he acquired the skills autodidactically and did not go through a long school like many other renowned perfumers. I have great respect for anyone who doesn't shy away from challenges.
And the production of fragrances is a great challenge in my eyes.
But testing some fragrances can also be a challenge from time to time...
He has created fragrances for Sarah Baker, Nishane and Bruno Acampora, among others, and since 2018 fragrances have also been available under his own name.
After eagerly testing the 9 scents of Senhor Matos I thought puha, the scents are quite an announcement. You can't really call the works light fare.
In statements to it I have partly rather moseyed at the smells.
I rarely get along well with fragrances that seem wildly composed. The works of Miguel Matos are already very avant-garde and experimental. And I can't deny that they are a bit too exhausting for me.
Mineral, leathery and animal components are often used and blended with spice, sweetness and floral notes. And to me the fragrances seem rather bulky and rather inaccessible.
The fewest fragrances have met my taste and I have rated them accordingly strict.
But I would also like to mention pleasant surprises.
And the scent Silver Stone is one such.
From the tested series, I actually like this fragrance the best, although it does not really correspond 100% to my other tastes either.
Silver Stone is a skilful mix of floral notes, green aspects and a mineral freshness as well as a distinct leather note.
Leather, my old enemy. I have feared the worst... But my fears were in vain
The scent starts immediately in a flowery green and the mineral tone is almost immediately present
The comparison of Ergoproxy with the heated stone wall with herbs is perfect.
Here and there the flowery notes come out from time to time, but none of them stands out particularly.
A portion of oak moss gives the leather a chy colour and after a while the leather note emerges. If leather usually puts me off, I have to admit that it fits the fragrance perfectly. It's always said that a fragrance needs a counterpart to the other notes, a certain edge, a portion of dirt, to keep it interesting. That's what the leather here does, but without ever stabbing me.
It ensures that the fragrance does not become arbitrary. And I really like the overall picture.
I don't even want to describe the overall picture as spicy and leathery, because in my nose leather is not the very first violin. The description spicy-green with leathery accompaniment would be more accurate
The fact that a certain synthetic touch hovers over everything cannot be denied either, but it fits the experimental concept perfectly.
And if synthetics are well-manufactured, I can handle it well.
The whole thing also has a very good shelf life and the fragrance is quite present in the first 2 hours. You should not exaggerate with the dosage.
Silver Stone is not likely to be a candidate for purchase, as it does not seem to be suitable for everyday use, but in between all the nagging, I did not want to leave out the pleasant surprise.
But as a test experience the fragrances are always a great enrichment and an exciting discovery.
I would like to thank Kovex very much for providing the hiking package and for the opportunity to get to know this remarkable brand!
Miguel Matos comes from Portugal, has been a perfume critic on Fragrantica since 2013 and has also been working as a perfumer for several years. What is astonishing is that he acquired the skills autodidactically and did not go through a long school like many other renowned perfumers. I have great respect for anyone who doesn't shy away from challenges.
And the production of fragrances is a great challenge in my eyes.
But testing some fragrances can also be a challenge from time to time...
He has created fragrances for Sarah Baker, Nishane and Bruno Acampora, among others, and since 2018 fragrances have also been available under his own name.
After eagerly testing the 9 scents of Senhor Matos I thought puha, the scents are quite an announcement. You can't really call the works light fare.
In statements to it I have partly rather moseyed at the smells.
I rarely get along well with fragrances that seem wildly composed. The works of Miguel Matos are already very avant-garde and experimental. And I can't deny that they are a bit too exhausting for me.
Mineral, leathery and animal components are often used and blended with spice, sweetness and floral notes. And to me the fragrances seem rather bulky and rather inaccessible.
The fewest fragrances have met my taste and I have rated them accordingly strict.
But I would also like to mention pleasant surprises.
And the scent Silver Stone is one such.
From the tested series, I actually like this fragrance the best, although it does not really correspond 100% to my other tastes either.
Silver Stone is a skilful mix of floral notes, green aspects and a mineral freshness as well as a distinct leather note.
Leather, my old enemy. I have feared the worst... But my fears were in vain
The scent starts immediately in a flowery green and the mineral tone is almost immediately present
The comparison of Ergoproxy with the heated stone wall with herbs is perfect.
Here and there the flowery notes come out from time to time, but none of them stands out particularly.
A portion of oak moss gives the leather a chy colour and after a while the leather note emerges. If leather usually puts me off, I have to admit that it fits the fragrance perfectly. It's always said that a fragrance needs a counterpart to the other notes, a certain edge, a portion of dirt, to keep it interesting. That's what the leather here does, but without ever stabbing me.
It ensures that the fragrance does not become arbitrary. And I really like the overall picture.
I don't even want to describe the overall picture as spicy and leathery, because in my nose leather is not the very first violin. The description spicy-green with leathery accompaniment would be more accurate
The fact that a certain synthetic touch hovers over everything cannot be denied either, but it fits the experimental concept perfectly.
And if synthetics are well-manufactured, I can handle it well.
The whole thing also has a very good shelf life and the fragrance is quite present in the first 2 hours. You should not exaggerate with the dosage.
Silver Stone is not likely to be a candidate for purchase, as it does not seem to be suitable for everyday use, but in between all the nagging, I did not want to leave out the pleasant surprise.
But as a test experience the fragrances are always a great enrichment and an exciting discovery.
I would like to thank Kovex very much for providing the hiking package and for the opportunity to get to know this remarkable brand!
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