Sdlm

I had been on the lookout for this one for some months when I finally managed to salvage a bottle. Yes, RG being discontinued did give me a FOMO reaction. This time around I’m happy I stayed persistent in my search. The evening I got the bottle I spent sniffing my wrist, time and again, not being quite able to believe a fragrance can smell so good. Creamy, aromatic, smooth yet clean.

The initial blast is one of airy and slightly piercing rosemary that quickly subsides. At this point, the scent is somewhat green and bright. Interestingly, I catch the oakmoss at this stage rather than in the dry down. It’s present on the fringe rather than as a stand-out element. The aniseed kicks in, followed by lavender and a cool/slightly metallic geranium. I believe it is the patchouli and guaiac wood combo that’s responsible for the backdrop against which the above notes play out against. This gives RG a multidimensional feel. A very 3-D scent.

While there are fragrances similar to this, none of them do the smooth and clean shaving cream thing just quite like RG. Azzaro is more ’grandpa’ whilst TF BdJ is overkill on the lavender and patchouli, making it over the top aromatic. I like the mint note in the latter mentioned, though. Point being, I find RG unique enough that I can fully vouch for all the praise. Yes, it is that damn good!

There’s a distinctive take on orange that makes this one stand out. Dry, almost burnt. Slightly vegetal and earthy. Prickly pepperiness. Never juicy or sweet. Reminds me of hot and dry days in southern Europe when you can literally smell the heath as the sun ”toasts” the earth and this results in a evaporation of compounds into the atmosphere.

The scent starts out with an initial blast of bright citrus that’s present for a fleeting moment. The Eau fraiche flanker takes this theme further whereas the EDT quickly reveals its earthy, dry and slightly spicy facet with flintstone, vetiver and pepper. This then morphs into a dry woody vetiver drydown that can be both warming or somewhat cold earthy depending on which facet you happen to catch. Masterfully blended. The notes melt into each other, creating a olfactory texture rather than a scent.

Terre may appear polarizing and it is to a degree. It’s not offending like some of the past’s powerhouses nor is it a ”beast mode” scent. It is, however, one of those fragrances that’s on the verge of the wearer having to be able to carrry it. This is due to the earthiness and dry woodiness that appear mature and somewhat serious. Nonetheless, a timeless and unique creation from Ellena and the house of Hermes.

I decided to buy a few new fragrances the summer I turned 40 years. Mature was what I had on my mind. Guerlain’s Vetiver was the first one that I bought that summer. I recall spraying it for the first time and thinking ”oh no, what is this, can’t wear it”. My spouse got a bout of migraine that evening, reportedly due to the scent.

I reapplied the scent the next day. While I was still hesitant I also recognized something in it that kept me intrigued. Fast forward to some weeks later. We’re taking a day trip with the family to a beach resort down south. It was on this trip that I finally understood Vetiver. It’s been one of my favourites ever since.

The scent is not of this day and age. For that you have Tom Ford’s equivalent. Whereas Tom is fresh, sharp and sleek, the original starts off with a round citrus scent consisting of bergamot and hint of lemon. There’s spice (nutmeg) with tobacco filling the space. Both share a rooty, earthy and slightly smoky vetiver note. Tom is the young professional in a suit. Guerlain is your 60-ish or so grey haired, confident and, perhaps, tattooed uncle who seen most of it, knows the art of not giving a s*it yet is there to comfort you when needed. Timeless.

To those who expect an olfactory similarity to the original Declaration; don’t. D’un Soir is not a flanker, it’s a niche-like creation by itself. A small pinch of cumin in the initial blast is followed by nutmeg and later on a smooth sandalwood base. The star of the show is an airy rose. It’s there from the beginning whilst the other notes underpin it, providing variations akin to to reflections on a backdrop. Fairly linear but not boring. It’s a mystery to as to what makes this take on rose masculine. Perhaps it is the lack of sweetness combined with the faint spiciness? Way different from Toy Boy which I found screetchy and over the top.

I was initially slightly disappointed as I had anticipated a spicier fragrance. It took a few wears but now I can appreciate d’un Soir for what it is, i.e. a gentleman-like take on rose that manages to keep an interesting facet by never appearing boring whilst still being relatively simple.