Shaking

Shaking

Reviews
Filter & sort
6 - 10 by 20
Shaking 4 years ago 16 9
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The heart is a lonely hunter
One in advance the famous disclaimer:
It will be long, it will be exhausting, whether it is worthwhile, but please everyone may decide for themselves.
The comment has only marginally (the basic mood) with my favorite book "The heart is a lonely hunter" zutun..so please do not be surprised.

A fragrance about age, pain , loneliness and the impossibility of love...
and yet loving...

What? Pretty tough stuff will say the gentle reader...why should I spray me something like that on the neck?

Moment Moment slowly...
Why,why, why?

Mr. Lutens late work "Bourreau des Fleurs" can not be considered without "Dent de Lait". (It will follow there vllt. also still a comment..comes time, comes advice)

These 2 fragrances, both launched in 2017, are inseparable in my eyes.
"Bourreau des Fleurs" has, as 'Jersey' wrote in your comments before, different meanings:
Charmer of Love", "Heartbreaker", "Flowerbreaker" and "Executioner of Flowers" ... now this is where it gets interesting.

As Serge Lutens once mentioned, his relationship with his mother is an ambivalent one...a love-hate relationship you could say.
The fragrance text of "Bourreau des Fleurs" in German has been somewhat altered and shifts the context, although this already gives a very good look into the interior of Lutens feelings.

It reads as follows:
A nocturnal sun... violence, imbued with love.
Flattering, sensual, soothing and mystical at the same time

In English, this already sounds a little different:
"The condemned: - Persecutor you slice, but in my blood you're the sap. Executioner: - And you, from my heart, you're the wood."

Lutens wants and always wanted to convey with his fragrances certain emotions in certain situations and for me it is here,with this, clearly about love...

But not the innocent,pure love or the love between man and woman...
It is about the exhausting devotion, the cordoning off, but still about the eternally connected to be...the love becomes something painful and enraptured, something which goes far beyond a striking "I love you" statement!

It is about the love between son and mother...

Does Lutens want to lead his mother olfactory to the scaffold? Does he recognize at the moment of your end the inevitable bond of your two souls?

Interesting here is an excerpt from a written interview from 2014 with Mr. Lutens, which for me can be seen as a blueprint to "Bourreau des Fleurs" and "Dent de Lait". It is about the early childhood memories from the Nazi era and afterwards.

Serge Lutens:
The image of Berlin is very present in my story: the war, Pétain's laws, the German Occupation... My imaginings around this woman who is my mother. What is this? Who is my father? What is this about? Who is she? Who is this woman, who kept quiet all her life? Who died in silence... without telling me anything...
I don't know who my father is, but I don't know who my mother is... I know who my father is, since I didn't love him, but actually, there's a turnaround. Things aren't that simple.

If "Bourreau des Fleurs" represents the end of this process, then "Dent de Lait" is the beginning....The hubris of birth,of childhood...of being "thrown into the world!

Dent de Lait is described in English as follows:
Now weary of the tongue's games which have for weeks on end been loosening its tooth, a young wolf is anxious to move from milk to blood.I have loved you for so long I will never forget you."

To me, this is clearly about the painful process of weaning himself from his mother.

Serge Lutens:
At seven years old, a girl will usually go towards her father... A boy will naturally gravitate towards his mother, that's more or less how the world establishes itself. Now, when you choose the mother as strongly as I did, of course it's extremely dangerously, because it's an incredible imbalance... The fact of having an adulterous mother, the fact of being a bastard, the fact that my father didn't recognize me, refused to recognize me initially, that he married my mother two years later: she experienced all that, of course, and I experienced it even though I wasn't fully aware of it.
Because an anxious mother, that's an anxious child. So this choice, if you will, that we make of one being or another at the outset of our lives, because deep down there's only one choice, though we don't know it's a choice... Because you're a child, you don't understand you're choosing. You don't call it a choice. What's a choice, anyway? I'll tell you: in fact, you're being stalked by wild beasts, there's a flooded river in front of you and on the other side, there's a quiet shore. What do you do? You cross the flooded river anyway.

Lutens, a driven soul, restless but with an incredible will and a sense of the moment, be it painful or beautiful.

"Bourreau des Fleurs" is for me Lutens conciliatory end of a long journey..towards forgiveness and his own accept his self.
Precisely because of this, the fragrance acts like a "best of" Lutens.

He lets us participate once again in the stations of his life.
The fragrance contains traces of ripe plums as in "Bois et fruits", a basic spice as in "Arabie" and a smoky component, interwoven with sweetness as from "Fille en aiguilles"

Above all towers the Immortelle, which mixes with all the ingredients, to an almost thick syrup.

This fragrance has something loving,conciliatory...memories of a time of warming sun and comfort ...but also something resinous,charred what bubbles under the surface emerges from time to time.

A cautionary shade - smoky licorice.

Harmony and disharmony lie here very close together, always in battle with each other.
Who may win the upper hand?
I do not know...

But what I think I know is that with this fragrance you get to buy a part of "Lutens self".
It is the artistic attempt of a reappraisal, a "fragrant catharsis"

Whether this is worth 450€ to one, is as with the art in general, superfluous to answer.

From a sober point of view, the price for a "Best of" fragrance is certainly too much.
Here is no surprise, here is no sensational scent progression (there is much to discover, no question)
The sillage and durability are phenomenal with me, which is certainly due to the Immortelle,which, no matter which fragrance I wear, always reacts very well with my skin.

This fragrance is and will always remain for me, a matter of the heart.
As it is now times with the muse art so ...

Art is a "possessive mistress"...which does not always please everyone... but this must not.
9 Comments
Shaking 4 years ago 38 14
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
5.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Wahhh and wee-wee 3.0
Now as rule conforming comment 3.0
As the content was a bit too hard for one or the other moderator and has been deleted, there is now the child-friendly FSK 6 version filled up with comments from other perfume comments on fragrances that have not been deleted because of your "inappropriate language"
Makes the commentary less authentic, but I want to stick to the rules, don't I ?

If the comment is deleted again now, this is really only pure arbitrariness.


I apologize already now for the more than pithy headline and the possibly following emotional outbursts!
Disclaimer: Actually you shouldn't have to put it in front of it, but some soft-hearted people might feel offended by what is about to follow, which is certainly not my intention!

One can now alone already be able to enjoy the real deer musk. (even if Mr. Russian states that these animals were not killed because of the perfume production and the animals were shot one way or another under strict conditions)
However, the Siberian deer, also known as the Siberian musk deer, is one of the endangered species whose population has been brought to the brink of extinction over the decades through excessive hunting and poaching. (About the attempt to keep the musk deer in captivity, I don't even want to talk !)

It would be difficult to answer the school question now... are it the poachers, the countries Russia and China who have looked away for years, the traditional medicine, for example the perfume industry, or even the consumer himself?

Who am I, who dares to deal with such a complex topic in a perfume commentary.
Each of the mentioned ones is surely partly to blame....but am I the right one to raise my index finger and to address admonishing incantations to all of them ?
Certainly not, because I am also partly to blame,no question...(I test the scent and offer him a platform)

Now what would be the right way ?
A boycott? Stricter penalties? Look at this Look away? Point with your finger ?
I can't answer it myself
Just what can I answer ?
Is it a good perfume?
What is the benchmark for this ?

I tried it once like this...
On one side of the weighing pan I have a cow pat with the weight of 1kg ... on the other one with the weight of 500g
The only thing that changes is the weight of the manure
but it remains what it is... Crap!
I can dose as much or little...the overdose of deer musk in almost all the fragrances of Areej, makes it in my nose and the nose of my fellow men to an experience that is simply disgusting

In my opinion this has little to do with fine and distinguished perfume art, it is rather the type of fragrance that brazenly flaunts its own genitals in an exhibitionistic way and displays its swelling masculinity - regardless of whether others find it disgusting or not.
It's obscene, it's pushy, it's "kinky"

For me personally, animal scents have something to do with a sensual, physical but also wild and, as the name suggests, animal experience...but and this is the crux of the matter, always in a certain context
For me, a "Musc Ravageur" shows very well how great and balanced perfume art works, which can intensify a sensual experience and, with the right dosage, can also pass as a normal fragrance.

But War and Peace Part II, whether you like it or not, bangs its full sexual debauchery from left to right around your ears and is as happy as a 7 year old who has just had his first Coke sugar shock!
Therefore, in my opinion, the fragrance can only be worn privately or in a certain group of people, where everyone involved is clear about what you are getting involved in.
God knows I am not a prude, but I don't want to be olfactorically "happy" in my olfactory orifices all the time in public (in the office, while shopping, in the waiting room etc.)!

Of course, it is all a question of perception, but I would like to hide the 9 hours completely and wait until the fragrance develops into a rough, stripped leather and becomes wearable ?
I don't think I have to judge it for what it is and that is in my nose and in the nose of my fellow men I have asked, a smoky, steaming, rough and piping spawn (and please take spawn literally!)

If the fragrance is supposed to capture the struggle between death and life, it is a clear conceptual fragrance that tends to be more in the "art direction" and with art it is often so...to one person Joseph Beuys "fat corner" is revelation, to the other "garbage" that can go away.

What I have learnt over the years is that you can't please everybody and that an opinion should also stimulate discourse, which is perhaps more important here than ever.

Craftsmanship may be great, the raw materials ancient, authentic and we live in a time (whether it is good or not) where everyone can do what they want...but it is not sustainable and not publicly justifiable !

ps: Here's a quote for his latest creation, Cuir de Russie, so I'll stop being benevolent: (Without indication of source, because linking is not allowed)
The leather here rapidly becomes far too thickly musky, smoky, dirty, and animalic to resemble that - which brings me to Cuir de Russie's "beaver tail oil." I asked Russian Adam what it was; I knew it couldn't be castoreum because the latter comes from beaver castor glands. I'll spare you the precise details but Adam said the materials were ethically sourced from beavers that were killed within legal limits and were not killed for perfumery, and that the ensuing, extracted oil smelled "like a castoreum times ten with a delicious faucets of fermented hindi oud..."

I'm just saying it's delicious!

pps. I love you all and the moderators can already trust you to be able to discuss sensibly

ppps: Unfortunately the comment is now quite distorted, but I wanted to publish it anyway, because it was important to me !
14 Comments
Shaking 4 years ago 18 5
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
About an outstanding scent and the shady sides of the Hautevolee
Actually there is nothing more to add to the fragrance after the comment of the very esteemed member "Profumo".

Everything important and revealing was mentioned.
My humble, subjective opinion flows naturally, finely interwoven, into this text :)

Dsclaimer:
This text refers only to Austria and my experiences there (Germany is a land of plenty when it comes to perfume)

Rather, I am concerned here with my personal disgust with a company policy of the
"Artificial scarcity in the luxury segment"

For some, it may be a great and exciting pastime to chase after a beloved perfume that you have wanted to have for a long time.
This form of satisfaction, when you finally hold the scent of desire in your hands after a seemingly endless odyssey, simply does not open up to me.
Of course, fragrances are my hobby and I know how much money people put into their hobbies, nobody has to tell me that, but a hobby should also be something that is fun and not degenerate into research work,

In the case of fragrances, I find this practice even more senseless and strange than, for example, the trendy bags by Louis Vuitton, Hermès or Chanel.
These are "status symbols" that almost everyone in the world knows and can classify directly.
(the crowning glory of the whole are certain models of Rolex, but this is a different matter)
A "popligen" Lubin "Condottiere" I can wear every day for 20 years and with a lot of luck would vllt. 1 person recognize this fragrance and nod appreciatively to me.

Don't get me wrong, I don't want the scent to turn me into an elitist snob, not at all...
I just don't want the manufacturer to suggest this with his sales policy...it's "just" a perfume, a consumer item......just a fragrance that sounds damn good from the description and I just want to test it before I buy it, no more no less "DOT"
But if this little thing is already the biggest hurdle to get started, something is damn lazy in the state of Denmark.

I also understand the objections of those who say:
"Yes that's why it's called luxury, you don't need it to survive and if you get so upset, just don't buy it and the drop is gone"

But I think it is arrogant and not very customer-oriented if you are supposed to buy a 250 € fragrance "WITHOUT SAMPLING" just like that!

On top of that, I:
a) I just don't have the time to write to all the perfumeries, and
b) I just don't like to beg for samples which are not available in Austria !

I am probably the only person in Austria who owns this scent, because nobody has the opportunity to go into a shop and test the scent and say:
"Yes, it smells really great, it's worth the money, I'd like to buy it" "Wrap it up please" !

No where do we get to.......that would be too easy......our fragrance in the hands of Jeremy Pascal?
The manufacturer can't give you any information about where and how many of his exclusive fragrances have been shipped and refers to the list of sources.......I can do that now :)

Exactly 1 unit of the fragrance is sent from the manufacturer to Austria, without testers, mind you, and this 1 fragrance then ekes out its solitary existence in some perfumery, until someone gets a sample via detours from Germany and then mercifully writes to various perfumeries in Austria, which are listed on the manufacturer's site as sources of supply, in order to find out whether the fragrance exists at all in the listed perfumeries, in order to then learn about the perfumeries: No we never had ... Wait What...??? *BOOOOM* Brainfuck Deluxe.....
This is how customer loyalty and service is provided by the manufacturer...........NOT !

You already realize that what I have been demonizing all the time, I have done anyway!
Am I ashamed, because I underestimate this business policy by doing so ?
Yeah, I do
Did I enjoy "working" so much for a fragrance so much
No
Do I like the scent ?
Yes beyond all measure

You can see it's pretty messy
So whoever got the scent in Austria, please write to me and tell me how you did it :)

The fragrance itself:
*Insert Profumo comment here*

A really outstanding fragrance, which for me closes the circle to my hobby, as mentioned above.
The beautiful four-tone sound of green violets, fine tangy leather, powdery iris and armons of berries (without their penetrating sweetness and often pungent synthetics) testifies to great craftsmanship and an unbelievable feeling for the essential !


Something new I have to add to the fragrance after all:
You know: Swizzels - Fizzers ?
Right, that's what it smells like! D

According to my better half (unbelieving amazement on my part......she means it, can she? after what I've been through)

*Shoulder shrug*

So much for the "Oh, so great" exclusivity :D
5 Comments
Shaking 4 years ago 7 4
6
Bottle
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Fragrances as a guideline ? Pfff, who needs it...
Sometimes in life, expectations and actual reality are very different
diverge.

I don't want to say anything, but let your gaze linger for a moment on the fragrances...take the words: Lapsang-Souchong tea, Russian leather, oud, black amber, patchouli, breuzinho, bakhoor, labdanum, TEMPLE CHRISTMAS very deeply into your consciousness !

What do you think the scent will give you ?

Right, the smoke will drive the PIPI into your eyes,
"Vi Et Armis", on the other hand, is a joke, for a cosy "cuddle evening" with your girlfriend.
You put on "Cardinal" to "make love"

Well...........*NOPE*
If the scent had been called "Dip chocolate cookies in warm tea with honey and orange and lemon in the sauna area", then....... "sigh* well..... then I would have known what I was getting.

But the saying: "What you see is what you get" has never been so far removed from any perfume as it is from this one!

So what do you get ?
A gourmand bomb of the very first order with "orange blossoms", somewhere a slight smoky note has "hidden" itself (but not a normal smoky note, it is somehow like the smell in a sauna land in the relaxation room).......where it comes from is a mystery to me *wink*

The durability is extremely good ( 10 hours + )
The Sillage, on the other hand, is "pleasantly" at one meter without filling rooms.
4 Comments
Shaking 4 years ago 7 5
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Have you heard? The wonder boy is in town!
Today is another day.
The annual Christmas train ride to the family is coming up.

Twice a year my parents are blessed with my presence. (More often would be nicer, but temporally it is always something like that)

As an attentive reader of my comments, I am sure some of you already know about my "Noir Extreme" experience, but only in summer :)
11 hours of train ride can be used to get closer to one or the other fragrance, especially if it is such an unusual specimen like "Blackmail".
(Editor's note: In Germany, the Wunderwuzzi is more of a miracle worker than: Jack-of-all-trades known)

My today's *victim*(or am I the victim of the scent) impresses by a very high reaction rate to his environment. Meaning...
whenever I have worn this fragrance, I have been approached about it.
Positive as well as negative (negative comments predominate) Note of the editors: "Philistines"

What I have not heard everything, a small sample pleasing ?
Pipe tobacco, Christmas market, Swiss stone pine oil, embrocation, tea shop etc.
From odour violation to "This scent makes me aggressive" to "My absolute favourite scent on you" ......

and then there is "Sonja" note of the editorial staff: Name changed for privacy reasons, a colleague, beginning 50, who always takes her little cookie box out of the desk drawer in the morning and puts on a chai latte when I wear the scent
She wants to have that Christmas market feeling at work too, she says :)

I'm sorry I couldn't give your husband a sample of me. He finds the scent "to puke"

By the way:
The female sex likes the scent much better than men.
Editor's note: Jeremy approved seal of approval ;)

To the fragrance:
I don't wear the fragrance because I want to stand out or take off compliments...I wear it simply because I love the fragrance.
For me this fragrance composition is close to the perfect fragrance.

Why ?
I love incense or smoke notes in all variations
Is this the scent? Check !
I like slightly fruity notes
Is this the scent? Check ! (and even red berries)
I like a non-intrusive sweetness
Is that the smell? Check !
Does the fragrance hold and has a good Sillage ?
Double check !

From my point of view, I can't really say anything negative about the fragrance, except that it is not so good to wear in summer, although it is not so good
mild summer evenings are definitely going to work!

In conclusion, it remains for me to say that
i think it is simply great that the fragrance is perceived differently by everyone and I am happy to know that it is in my collection!

The Kerosene brand is certainly worth a look or two if you haven't heard of it yet.

Editor's note:
Halftime on the train, 5 hours to go :)
5 Comments
6 - 10 by 20