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Long Playing no 9 for Men
Contrary to popular opinion, the 'LP' in Penhaligon's LP No.9 for men does not stand for "Love Potion". No, it stands for "Long Playing" no 9. That's because this "eau de toilette" packs a potent punch, and becomes stronger not weaker over time, culminating ultimately in a bizarre spiced-oriental barbershop fougère. It also morphs back and forth between fougère and oriental, at times reminding me of PRADA AMBER pour homme and Bond no 9 COOPER SQUARE, at other times reminding me of something rather stifling and nameless.
Penhaligon's is a funny house. They do seem British somehow, which I know sounds like a stereotype, but of course it is. I have a bottle of Pecksniff's bubble bath, on which the self-deprecating information is printed that (paraphrased), "there are very few British perfume makers, and we are proud to be one of them)." My favorite British house is Miller Harris, but that's another story.
I was shocked to discover the Penhaligon's--L'Artisan Parfumeur connection not too long ago. I only figured it out because they held simultaneous sales, and fulfillment came from the same place, and the websites were designed almost exactly the same. Then I discovered that Bertrand Duchaufour has created scents for both houses. But somehow Penhaligon's has this old school vibe which strikes me as just slightly off somehow, at least in some cases.
Especially with the LP duo, I find that a whole bunch of heavy spices were thrown into the mix to, well, spice things up. The effect is not entirely harmonious, and it's certainly not romantic, whatever else it may be. Unlike jtd (see below), I do not hate this perfume, but I also don't really cherish the thought of wearing it again. It's not exactly painful to wear, but it is somewhat challenging and discordant. To me, at least, LP No. 9 FOR MEN is not such a pleasure to wear. Perhaps it is better suited for men? Except, of course, jtd!
Penhaligon's is a funny house. They do seem British somehow, which I know sounds like a stereotype, but of course it is. I have a bottle of Pecksniff's bubble bath, on which the self-deprecating information is printed that (paraphrased), "there are very few British perfume makers, and we are proud to be one of them)." My favorite British house is Miller Harris, but that's another story.
I was shocked to discover the Penhaligon's--L'Artisan Parfumeur connection not too long ago. I only figured it out because they held simultaneous sales, and fulfillment came from the same place, and the websites were designed almost exactly the same. Then I discovered that Bertrand Duchaufour has created scents for both houses. But somehow Penhaligon's has this old school vibe which strikes me as just slightly off somehow, at least in some cases.
Especially with the LP duo, I find that a whole bunch of heavy spices were thrown into the mix to, well, spice things up. The effect is not entirely harmonious, and it's certainly not romantic, whatever else it may be. Unlike jtd (see below), I do not hate this perfume, but I also don't really cherish the thought of wearing it again. It's not exactly painful to wear, but it is somewhat challenging and discordant. To me, at least, LP No. 9 FOR MEN is not such a pleasure to wear. Perhaps it is better suited for men? Except, of course, jtd!
1 Comment
Half way between Trussardi Inside and La Perla Eclix
Bond no 9 SO NEW YORK is a solid composition featuring unsweetened cocoa and coffee. I've occasionally toyed with the idea of adding a bottle of this perfume to my collection, but seeing that I'm still working my way through a purse spray acquired more than two years ago, it seems safe to say that I can live without it.
I do like SO NEW YORK--don't get me wrong. It reminds me in turns of Trussardi INSIDE and La Perla ECLIX. I already own both, and I don't really wear this kind of half-way-between-a-skin-scent-and-a-gourmand creation very often. It has a scrumptiousness without being overly sweet, and it also smells fairly natural. I smell much more of a bittersweet cocoa note than an expresso note, but there is also a gently sweetened creaminess, which is common to both INSIDE and ECLIX. I would definitely recommend SO NEW YORK to anyone who enjoys either or both of those perfumes, although it seems somewhat better suited to gals than to guys. I know that a lot of guys like NEW HAARLEM, but I'd advise a try-before-you-buy on this one.
ECLIX has been discontinued, so this could fill the void, but I continue to see INSIDE at discounters for a fraction of this price, and I am not convinced that the quality of this particular Bond no 9 creation is any better than those two mainstream designer scents.
Nonetheless, I still would not mind having a bottle of SO NEW YORK!
I do like SO NEW YORK--don't get me wrong. It reminds me in turns of Trussardi INSIDE and La Perla ECLIX. I already own both, and I don't really wear this kind of half-way-between-a-skin-scent-and-a-gourmand creation very often. It has a scrumptiousness without being overly sweet, and it also smells fairly natural. I smell much more of a bittersweet cocoa note than an expresso note, but there is also a gently sweetened creaminess, which is common to both INSIDE and ECLIX. I would definitely recommend SO NEW YORK to anyone who enjoys either or both of those perfumes, although it seems somewhat better suited to gals than to guys. I know that a lot of guys like NEW HAARLEM, but I'd advise a try-before-you-buy on this one.
ECLIX has been discontinued, so this could fill the void, but I continue to see INSIDE at discounters for a fraction of this price, and I am not convinced that the quality of this particular Bond no 9 creation is any better than those two mainstream designer scents.
Nonetheless, I still would not mind having a bottle of SO NEW YORK!
2 Comments
Extremely complex and dense oriental
With a name like VANILLE, this entry in the Mona di Orio Les Nombres d'Or series is bound to mislead, as it is about as far from a solinote fragrance as one can possibly imagine! Yes, there is a central core of vanilla to this composition, but there is every bit as much leather, and amber, and woods--among many other scents. VANILLE is not really a gourmand perfume at all, but a complex and extremely dense oriental best suited for cold winter nights.
The combination of the somewhat sweet (but not overly so) vanilla with the leather naturally reminds me of perfumes such as Van Cleef & Arpels MIDNIGHT IN PARIS and Lubin KORRIGAN. However, I feel that this elixir is quite a bit richer, and the quality of the ingredients surpasses that of at least the Van Cleef & Arpels variation on the same theme. Of course it should, since this is haute niche, not mainstream perfumery.
The veritable kaleidoscope of notes in this creation makes it difficult to say anything very meaningful that will not be falsified in the next five seconds, as the many different elements wax and wane and undulate in very unpredictable ways. To determine whether this sort of super-rich elixir will work and can be comfortably worn, one must apply this perfume directly to the skin and leave it there for the duration of its life, which is many hours. The sillage is also rather impressive. To me, the concentration of this eau de parfum seems closer to pure perfume or extrait.
Some may find this kind of composition stifling, but others will rejoice in the density of VANILLE. Because of the rum and the spices, I am occasionally reminded of L'Artisan Parfumeur VANILLE ABSOLUMENT (or Havana, as it was formerly called), but the animalic facets of Mona di Orio's VANILLE put this composition in its own league.
VANILLE is a fine perfume, which I recommend for testing by anyone who likes both vanilla and super-rich elixirs. This is not a cologne, to put it mildly, and I doubt that anyone would want to wear VANILLE in hot weather, but it's a great choice for wintertime.
The combination of the somewhat sweet (but not overly so) vanilla with the leather naturally reminds me of perfumes such as Van Cleef & Arpels MIDNIGHT IN PARIS and Lubin KORRIGAN. However, I feel that this elixir is quite a bit richer, and the quality of the ingredients surpasses that of at least the Van Cleef & Arpels variation on the same theme. Of course it should, since this is haute niche, not mainstream perfumery.
The veritable kaleidoscope of notes in this creation makes it difficult to say anything very meaningful that will not be falsified in the next five seconds, as the many different elements wax and wane and undulate in very unpredictable ways. To determine whether this sort of super-rich elixir will work and can be comfortably worn, one must apply this perfume directly to the skin and leave it there for the duration of its life, which is many hours. The sillage is also rather impressive. To me, the concentration of this eau de parfum seems closer to pure perfume or extrait.
Some may find this kind of composition stifling, but others will rejoice in the density of VANILLE. Because of the rum and the spices, I am occasionally reminded of L'Artisan Parfumeur VANILLE ABSOLUMENT (or Havana, as it was formerly called), but the animalic facets of Mona di Orio's VANILLE put this composition in its own league.
VANILLE is a fine perfume, which I recommend for testing by anyone who likes both vanilla and super-rich elixirs. This is not a cologne, to put it mildly, and I doubt that anyone would want to wear VANILLE in hot weather, but it's a great choice for wintertime.
Refreshing Grapefruit Herbal Cologne
In the age of aromachemical abstraction in which we currently spritz, it's incredibly nice to discover a few hold-outs here and there, one of which is Le Couvent des Minimes, dating from 1862. EAU DES MINIMES offers the original recipe of this invigorating grapefruit-herbal cologne, and it smells delightful to my nose, in addition to boasting aromachemical benefits. Beautiful essential oils and plant extracts are combined in a pleasing blend which to be honest smells a lot better than most of the niche colognes which I have encountered of late.
This creation reminds me a bit of a few different mainstream fragrances I've used over the years, including Clarins EAU DYNAMISANTE and Christian Dior EAU SVELTE (sadly discontinued). The notes vary, but the concept is the same, so it must have started at this convent in nineteenth-century France: a fragrance to apply liberally to the body both to scent and to revitalize. This particular version on the theme has a dominant grapefruit note, but it also has a decidedly aromatic and herbal scent.
EAU DES MINIMES is perfect for springtime and even summertime weather, and I like it a lot!
This creation reminds me a bit of a few different mainstream fragrances I've used over the years, including Clarins EAU DYNAMISANTE and Christian Dior EAU SVELTE (sadly discontinued). The notes vary, but the concept is the same, so it must have started at this convent in nineteenth-century France: a fragrance to apply liberally to the body both to scent and to revitalize. This particular version on the theme has a dominant grapefruit note, but it also has a decidedly aromatic and herbal scent.
EAU DES MINIMES is perfect for springtime and even summertime weather, and I like it a lot!
1 Comment
Fresh, Clean, Natural Wood!
There is nothing worse than donning a perfume and spending a moment or two pondering whether one might be in the process of poisoning oneself. Not a problem with the perfumes of Miller Harris, including this gorgeous spare, austere woody perfume: EN SENS DE BOIS. Every time I apply this perfume, I feel as though I just walked into a space filled with freshly hewn wood. Real wood, not the "stuff" which continues to gross me out and which somehow has gained a following in both the designer and niche realms.
The scent of cedar should be familiar to anyone who has a cedar closet or otherwise uses cedar to dissuade moths from taking up residence in their home. How expensive can it be to use real cedar, given that it is obviously readily available? And yet, so many "woody" perfumes these days opt for "wood surrogates," which unfortunately in addition to smelling nothing like wood, tend to shroud all of the other what would have been beautiful notes. I've experienced this aromachemical overkill over and over again, and it has become so frequent that I cannot even consider the possibility of buying blind any perfume which boasts "wood" notes.
Except for Miller Harris. This house produces truly natural-smelling wood-centric compositions based in the scents of nature. Here is what they write on some of the boxes, which I share because it is not only eloquent but also true:
"Fragrance is as old as the earth. The evening scent of flowers, the woodland odours of plants and roots, the headiness of ripe fruits, the bouquet of wild herbs, the trace of pollen on the wind. Such things are my inspiration for, though they stir the senses, they are redolent of something deeper, harmony and inner peace."
Three cheers for Lyn Harris, who continues to carry the torch of fine perfumery against all of the recent trends, above all, excessive aromachemical abstraction.
I recommend EN SENS DE BOIS for gals and guys alike who enjoy the calming scent of natural woods. They are embellished with a variety of herbal, aromatic elements, but the woods are the main attraction here.
The scent of cedar should be familiar to anyone who has a cedar closet or otherwise uses cedar to dissuade moths from taking up residence in their home. How expensive can it be to use real cedar, given that it is obviously readily available? And yet, so many "woody" perfumes these days opt for "wood surrogates," which unfortunately in addition to smelling nothing like wood, tend to shroud all of the other what would have been beautiful notes. I've experienced this aromachemical overkill over and over again, and it has become so frequent that I cannot even consider the possibility of buying blind any perfume which boasts "wood" notes.
Except for Miller Harris. This house produces truly natural-smelling wood-centric compositions based in the scents of nature. Here is what they write on some of the boxes, which I share because it is not only eloquent but also true:
"Fragrance is as old as the earth. The evening scent of flowers, the woodland odours of plants and roots, the headiness of ripe fruits, the bouquet of wild herbs, the trace of pollen on the wind. Such things are my inspiration for, though they stir the senses, they are redolent of something deeper, harmony and inner peace."
Three cheers for Lyn Harris, who continues to carry the torch of fine perfumery against all of the recent trends, above all, excessive aromachemical abstraction.
I recommend EN SENS DE BOIS for gals and guys alike who enjoy the calming scent of natural woods. They are embellished with a variety of herbal, aromatic elements, but the woods are the main attraction here.
1 Comment
