Shojoid

So funny that parfumo shows a "Controversially Rated Scent" label next to Arcanum, while currently only two people seem to own it and not all that many have tried it in decants and samples. I can only guess this is due to the personality of the brand's founder, namely the fact, that he is a famous fragrance reviewer and blogger on youtube. When a social media person makes something it seems to attract strong opinions regardless of the actual qualities of the product.

I see nothing controversial about this perfume. Arcanum is a solid oriental incense and amber fragrance. Perfectly well blended, no rough edges, the right amount of incense smokiness and woodiness balanced by sweet resinous amber accord that has echoes of all kinds of spices associated with sweetness - vanilla, cinnamon, creamy texture.

On my skin it leans towards these sweeter oriental aspects, the smoky incense building a background. I consider it to be very unisex, can wear it myself or see it on my partner. Warm, pleasant, not overpowering, suited for every day use as well as evening wear when one wants some more oomph (just make a couple of more sprays). I think most people will instantly like it when blind-smelling it, because it has a very easily likable quality to it - a perfume that is made for people who want something easy to understand and wear, not an abstract controversial art piece to marvel at.

I guess some people must have some very specific expectations based on the persona of the brand's founder, which produces the "controversy". Anyway, I see none here.

The most beautiful mimosa perfume I have recently encountered. It is delightfully fluffy, full of life-like happy yellow mimosa flowers and cheerful lightness. But being the work of two great talents (the perfumer and the creative director) if avoids being simple and pretty for prettiness sake. Here, mimosa is combined with hawthorn and it adds a very cool modern twist to the composition. The dose of hawthorn has just enough honeyed tartness to add depth, substance and character to the perfume. I'd say a must-smell if you are into happy, airy floral fragrances.

This is the only fragrance that I know that lets the real ambergris shine in such a magnificent way! The real thing is used here, and it is beautiful. If you have ever wondered about what real ambergris is like - this is the perfume to try if you cannot get your hands on the pure material. It's like an essence of the ocean - wet, fresh, yet as far removed from the 90s male marine classics as possible. Silencethesea is ocean air with fleshy texture, animalic facets, because the seas are huge living organisms, not sterile office freshners. All the other notes are masterfully used to frame the central pillar of the perfume - ambergris. They help bring out its different sides - green, earthy, woody, leathery.

Everybody is free to like whatever rocks their boat and avoid the rest. However, I feel that negative reviews for this fragrance are a consequence of applying the wrong criteria. If you try to evaluate the scent based on its pleasantness and traditional codes of "marine" fresh perfume genre, you'll be disappointed. Because it's like judging ice cubes and ice cream by the same rules - pointless, because these are different things.

Silencethesea is a unique and precious composition that is closer to a work of art than to a fragrance to be worn casually. It provides new and beautiful olfactory experiences, invites on a journey of discovery, touches the soul and the mind.

Such a beautiful fragrance! It's creating the feeling of a glass of warm almond milk with a hint of vanilla, honeyed flowers (heliotrope is the most prominent one, supported by jasmine) and creamy essence of hazelnuts. I think the backbone of this fragrance is actually sandalwood, all the other components are there to enhance and support its different aspects. The result is pure bliss!

Soft, calm, tender, a bit sweet without being too overpowering.

This is beautiful. The hot sand and desert wind hit you in the face. There is some flower somewhere far away, possibly already fossilized from the heat. Juicy and green-ish paprika, however, reminds one that there is life there somewhere, even if one is surrounded by a melting mirage.

The composition is unlike anything else, really unique. Don't know anything with a similar vibe, let alone smell. Easy to wear, not loud, warm and understated. It's all subjective, but some fragrances have built-in classiness. This is one of them. Can be a great signature scent.