Skills0401

In my almost two years here at Parfumo, writing comments is something I haven't necessarily indulged in - writing a good comment takes time and reflection, so I reserve the right to write about fragrances that awaken something special in me. All the more respect for all those who comment much more often and for a longer time!

But today it's time again - it's about 20 degrees in New York and after a rainy spring, which is overshadowed by COVID-19, it's finally sunny for a longer time. The air on these early summer days always has a special energy for me and on such days AdP Colonia is a fragrance that underlines this energy but at the same time reminds me that it doesn't take much to enjoy life

The energy is expressed here in particular by the tangy and lemon-dominated opening, which is at the same time pleasantly cool. Accompanied by a light bergamot, Colonia makes a self-confident but very natural appearance here and brings a kick of freshness that lifts and energizes the mood. This prelude is a rather short pleasure, because after about 20-30 minutes the citrus fruits embed themselves very harmoniously into the base of the fragrance, which makes a lot out of little. Lemon and lavender are carried here by other herbs and a fresh, slightly soapy note, which evokes associations with the south, with sun, but also with down-to-earthness. There is no need for a protruding pyramid of scents here, just a few natural ingredients - you won't find any synthetics here.

A few weeks ago, I had a very similar scent in the nose of a barber in a Mexican city, and there was nothing superimposed on it either: a chair, wonderfully aged wooden furniture and a barber and apprentice who did their work. Simple, but efficient, and proud of what you are and what you do - I have the same feeling with this classic from Acqua di Parma. And perhaps it is this association that makes me think of Colonia as a so-called "barbershop" fragrance, or rather a precursor of it.

Shelf life and sillage are not the most important things with Colonia. 4-5 hours one has a pleasure with it, whereby the sillage is stronger than expected at the beginning, but then quickly recedes, leaving the wearer almost alone with his pleasures.

All in all, Colonia is a wonderful companion for warm days, reminding me that less can often be more - an important lesson especially in Corona times

For me, the Cologne of the L'Homme Idéal series was, along with the EdT, the stepchild of the series for a long time. While the EdP in winter spreads opulence in a positive sense and the sports version is wrongly underestimated in my opinion and is quite unique with its combination of almonds and aquatics, the Cologne always made the impression of the nice boy from next door during various tests on test strips, about whom you can actually say nothing bad, but who comes across quite arbitrarily.

How first impressions can sometimes deceive...

For spring and summer I bought a bottling and tested it several times during the last days. Especially in sunshine and on my skin I got to know a new side of cologne which inspired me. The star is the grapefruit in the top note. It's not the type that reminds me of the sour and bitter juice of various mediocre breakfast buffets, but a sweeter, more ripe fruit that immediately brightens my mind and makes me think about summer. This is probably due to the sweetness of the L'homme-Idéal DNA - here it works wonderfully and is rounded off by a fleetingly perceptible bergamot.

This top note remains surprisingly long for a cologne and is supplemented over time by the typical almond, which is on a low flame in comparison to EdT and EdP. It does not play the leading role, but harmoniously accompanies the character of the fragrance, accompanied by a hint of neroli. The whole thing is bedded on a base that, unlike EdT/EdP, is not difficult, but pleasant and slightly fluffy in the form of a light musk gives an interesting depth. Vetiver, as listed here, I don't smell any.

All in all, a favorite of the series has emerged very surprisingly for me, which I smiled at until two weeks ago - but which I will wear gladly in the coming warm months, when I feel like summer refreshment without a cool lemon.

And the lesson from history - only testing on paper is not worth it!

...then it would be Terre d'Hermès for me. I've never been a big advocate of the signature fragrance concept and before my time on Parfumo I had a small rotation of fragrances that were used on various occasions. In the meantime, this rotation has grown a bit, but the basic attitude that I want to underline different moods with different perfumes has not changed. Nevertheless TdH is now listed as a signature scent - why?

Well, there are several reasons - but the most important one is that I like the fragrance the best of all my perfumes. When I am undecided in the morning what I want to wear, my thoughts usually first wander to TdH. For me, there is no other fragrance that can be worn at any time, both professionally and in my free time, and that makes me feel so comfortable when I wear it. The very good durability and sillage for me and also the Iso E Super used here very meaningfully ensure that I get scent clouds in the course of the day again and again in the nose, which regularly lift my mood a little - that's how a scent should be!

Jean Claude Ellena has also succeeded in incorporating aspects into TdH that are suitable for all seasons and give the fragrance an iridescent character. In spring it's mainly the freshness with grapefruit and pepper that fits; in summer the orange and the slightly smoky note remind me a bit of summer rain in the air on hot days, which also comes from Iso E Super with its woody airiness. In the colder seasons, the cedar and vetiver base is more prominent, underlining the earthiness of Terre d'Hermès. I don't know many fragrances that are so multi-faceted, yet simple to wear. TdH never attracts attention unpleasantly, but caresses the wearer in a discreet, but always perceptible fragrance restaurant.

And last but not least, Terre d'Hermès reminds me of the place where I bought it and where I spent an exciting half year - Beirut. A dynamic, multicultural and diverse city supported by modernity, tradition and cordiality. TdH - Tradition, dynamics, cordiality? For me, yes, the perfume, with its rich facets and warmth, is a perfect match for this city.

I don't believe in the concept of signature scent - but if there was only one, Terre d'Hermès would have the best cards and will therefore always have a special place in my collection.

It is just a cold, occasionally humid spring morning in Vienna - the 6 degrees correspond for me to the perfect temperature for the l'Instant EDT and the mood is also just crying for a comment.

With this perfume, Guerlain has succeeded in creating a fragrance for colder seasons that is strong enough to stand up well at low temperatures, but also retains a certain lightness throughout the entire process - unlike the EDP, which is a bit too opulent (and old) for me.

This lightness comes to me, however, only after the top notes have been overcome, which I find a little too old-fashioned - the mixture of clear anise, lemon and jasmine reminds me of the apartment of a great aunt unfortunately, hence the not quite so high rating. It takes about 30-45 minutes until the heart note and thus the highlight of the fragrance comes to the fore. This wonderful blend of cocoa notes and patchouli, lightly supported by lavender, which is so uniquely natural and airy and which I have to sniff over and over again throughout the day, exudes a certain grandeur which is difficult to describe - you know that the scent is special and emerges from the mass without being a ramp sow. Noble understatement. This highlight then remains clearly perceptible for 4-5 hours before l'Instant says goodbye slowly and just as reservedly, whereby I can hardly smell the base notes given here.

The Sillage is well done for me - perceptible, but with the right dosage at no time obtrusive. I think it's a shame about the old bottle, which was much more independent - the new ones are simple and nice, but not more than that.

Six degrees in Vienna - hopefully there won't be too many such days this spring. But when I do, I enjoy the Instants de Guerlain, which make this fragrance so special.

In the meantime, I have already been registered here for a few months, during which my account balance has decreased, but my collection has increased to the same extent - but I have not yet come to active writing. I think it's time to change that and Rive Gauche is the fragrance that gives me the opportunity.

I'd like to say that I can't do much with the many individual notes that are present on Parfumo, because my nose may not work fine enough, but mainly because I perceive fragrances as something very subjective and my assessments of fragrances are not based on individual notes, but rather on associations and connections.

And it's exactly such associations that make me appreciate Rive Gauche, because I combine the scent, which here and on many other platforms is called the barbershop scent (and rightly so), with the ritual of the wet shave, which I don't do so often anymore thanks to Bart, but still enjoy a few times a year. Whip on warm shaving foam yourself and apply to the face, let it take effect, shave 2-3 times, then rinse with cold water and a caring aftershave - after these 10 minutes you will feel refreshed, cared for and relaxed. Rive Gauche manages to pack this emotion into a fragrance that has something of shaving foam, but above all gives me the feeling of relaxation and peace. But this peace of mind also goes hand in hand with a good measure of self-confidence: "I am a fragrance from past years, that may be, but I have my right to exist - first find something younger that goes in this direction" - that is what this fragrance conveys to me, and I have found nothing better so far, until then I enjoy this successful fragrance, which radiates self-confident peace and serenity from beginning to end and does not change much for me in the course of time

In addition, I find Rive Gauche quite universally applicable - leisure, office, both go. All seasons go, even the summer, because the scent doesn't convey any sweetness or heaviness for me. I'd probably put on something else to go out, but that's okay too. Shelf life is very good for me, the scent brings me through a working day. I perceive the Sillage as neat, but not exaggerated - throughout the day the fragrance withdraws without losing its presence altogether. The bottle is simple, but pretty.

In this sense a nice weekend with peace and strength - and hopefully a successful introduction to the commentary world of Profumo ;)