SkySky's Perfume Reviews

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Sky 8 years ago 3
7
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage

Holographic love-child of old-school Opium & the original O de Lancome.
Uncompromising classic.

Nohiba transports you back a fair few decades with her fiercely aldehylic & mock-moss opening but wait, there is a plump & pillowy “perfumery” perfume lurking below the radar. She is dated yet mutable and as contemporaneous as nature herself. She is meaty & voluminous yet light enough to shimmer with a golden heat-haze. You will either love her or loathe her, but take a while to understand her (as you would a painting) & you will be rewarded with an interesting, unfurling romantic scent journey.

When your nostrils have become accustomed to the dry, stripping bergamot you are aware of a fine, ivory soap with a hint of triple milled powder. It is herbal & clean not in today’s modern sense (all ozionics & solars) but in that of the past, almost as nature herself. Not sweet, almost savoury, definitely dry – a sage green with a touch of terracotta.

When the arid rawness of the start subsides, the warm, spicy desert-heat of Nohiba arrives. Light, sour Roses – not fresh, but pot-pourri petals left out in the sun. If there’s any lemon in there, it is the bitter pith & peel. Coriander & old store-cupboard savoury herbs add a dash of dust, but the true stars are sun-baked carnations & ylang-ylang. Big! Bold! Ablaze!

As the heat-haze wears on, Nohiba softens to a sun-warmed, spicey-sweet, woody-oriental harking back to a bygone era. Her last gasps are of smoky woods, old pine cones & salty skin.

Nohiba is very distinctive but there are moments where she swings towards scents you recognise. This grande dame wanders through the garden of perfumes-past, picking at the petals of once famed fragrances: a snippet of Sisley, a dash of Aromatics Elixir, a handful each of Cinnebar, Opium, O de Lancome, Guerlain’s Terracotta Voile d’ete ……on & on she travels…a scent ship in full sail.

Nohiba truly is a bosomy, well upholstered fragrance. She is as tough as a corseted matron but remains voluptuous & womanly beneath. She is a William Morris woman - a mix in time of austerity & romantic fantasy.

To sum up: the holographic love-child of old-school Opium & the original O de Lancome.

Sky 9 years ago 6
10
Scent
10
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
5
Bottle

Fantastic Frankincense Fragrance - top 5
Yes, yes, yes.

This scent is like reading a beautiful, ancient novel that slowly unfolds & unfurls, page by page, on your skin - strange, compelling, addictive, exotic, timeless.

If you like resinous-incense scents, you will love Opus IV.

The opening is citrus & quite bright: green & luminous with a fresh sappy note. The overall colour-feel is a luminescent sunrise glow. It is deep & yet translucent, rich yet never sickly, incense-smokey without the fire.

The resin-sap note begins to glow in the intense dry heat of the incense. And the incense is the good kind... a little churchy, a little hippy, a little exotic. It is the same that I find in the Chai Chapel Earth incense that you burn on hot coals which gives a slight touch-of-the-sauna to the scent.

Underneath, I am aware of a sharp metallic note - never unpleasant, just intriguing. I burn frankincense & love this tangy aspect it imparts. This truly is an ode to this wonderful resin. I do not detect any sweaty notes AT ALL (& I often have trouble with cumin in perfume). The dryness is delightful - I love a parched scent! Sunbaked papyrus pages in a desert where gnarled trees ooze resinous sap & the ground smells of baked clay.

IMO, it is neither masculine nor feminine; not quite eastern, never western...this is one of those rare scents that will transport you away from the hububb of your life. I would enjoy this on any skin as it has an otherwordly quality & a story-telling ability that I admire in perfumery. The strength is good & longevity is exceptional.

Amouage perfumes can sometimes appear to try to hard & be just too, too much but this one is a real understated treat. The best of the bunch & close to my frankincense HG.

Simply put: WANT.

Sky 9 years ago 8

Triffid-juice...or everything but the perfume equivalent of the kitchen sink
Can you pull off Envy with aplomb? Does Eden work well for you? Have you the right chemistry to tame Calyx? If you can work wet-florals or answer "yes" to any of the above then you may enjoy this unusual floral fume.

In all honesty, on my skin, this scent sickens & dies, turning a testing into a stomach-twisting headache. I am not a big, bold floral gal but along with the flowers I also find stagnant water, mildew on sodden earth &, of all things, ashtrays (chemistry & scent-perception is such a strange thing!). That said, I can truly appreciate the concept.

Here is a floral that aims to conjure up the still, heavy, heady moist air of a hot-house full of exotic blooms. Others (say a cool-skinned blonde) may marvel at the intoxicating pervasive perfumes but to my nose these strange flowers, wet woods & over-ripe fruits seem sad & trapped, removed from their natural environment.

The start is green, sappy, peppery a little bitter. This settles to a humid, white floral heart where slighlty sickly fruits & that sour-stem note add to the still, moist, heady throng. It continues to grow & glow on my skin, a dark vine entwined round my wrist, ending in a slick of wet, woody warmth.

BP has the uncanny knack of being unique & yet it reminds me of other fragrances, many of which do not sit easily on my skin. I find the hyacinth from Envy is very present along with the green note of Eden & white florals found in Premier Jour Soleil.

Not for me at all - but cool-skinned floral-lovers should give it a try.
1 Reply

Sky 9 years ago 3

Hint of relaxation
Very, very soft - a chiffon scarf, a whisper of a scent on a balmy breeze. Clean & fresh as line-dried, white cotton. It is the silent, swaying, sighing outdoors...relaxed yet alert, & very natural.

Truly unisex. The barely-there citrus notes make it crisp without being tart, the gentle warm cedar & orange slowly sink in echoing your own body warmth & subtle sweetness. The bamboo leaves give it a mouth-watering, pale green zing.

You're not going to rock out to this scent - it doesn't make a statement, it isn't sexy, cute, flirty, bossy, it just (deep breath in, & out).....IS.

It's like a cucumber sandwich - a palate cleanser. Great to wear if you need to centre your thoughts, for work or to relax - it won't bother your mind or anyone's nose. I'd imagine it'd work if you were ill or nauseous, when your nose rejects your favourite scents.

Sky 9 years ago 3

Cold spice
Oooo this courtesan has a cold, cold heart - it's true!

In some ways, Courtesan is Roma's odd little sister - they share a note that reminds me of cold, dry, grey slate & baked earth.

Where they differ is in their warmth & level of spice. Roma embraces you with a truly cosy & comely beauty, full of voluptuous curves & womanly charms. Courtesan knows her magnetic attraction & holds it like a steely gun to your head, keeping you at arm’s length with her chilly reserve & firey nature.

I adore spices & here they are all on show, not heavily & daringly as in Jungle, but in a refined way. I also find a distinct white pepper note that remains in the foreground throughout. Looking at the notes you may wonder where all the fruits, caramel & chocolate are: on my skin Courtesan isn’t candied, “frooty” or juicy in any way. It showcases the natural sweetness of cinnamon with its calm, dusty & dryness, echoed again in the cacao, & offers the wearer a grown up bitter-sweet berry tartness.

The base is very sensual…she knows how to please……soft musk, creamy woodsy sandalwood & a gentle amber. Yet, throughout the life of Courtesan a cold, grey blood pulses through her veins: the whole fragrance is built upon these great, grey foundations!

The longevity is good & the trail is obvious but modest, it is one if the most mysterious fragrances I own. This perfume is very unusual & well worth a try if you like distinct, dry fragrances with a cold, white heat. If you have ever read Memoirs of a Geisha I am reminded of Sayuri, the beautiful, tough Geisha with cold, blue eyes. Such beauty held in such a cold embrace.

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