Smellie13

Smellie13

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Smellie13 7 months ago 17 4
8
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Between 2 chairs... er beehives
When I skim over the numerous statements like a busy bee over the colorful flowers, one thing catches my eye: it seems as if there are two factions with regard to the expectations of this fragrance, and both tend to be disappointed.

On the one side we have what I call the "sweet-toothed bumblebees", on the other we have the "sniffing explorer bees". Some like to settle down comfortably in the cozy field of flowers, others like to wander around in search of flowers that exude a complex, composed scent.
For some, the fragrance couldn't have been sweet enough and they are bothered by the tart tobacco/oud note, while others perceive almost too much honey sweetness and miss innovation.

I belong to the first group and was hoping for an authentic sweet honey scent paired with the typical and ingenious smoky Guerlain vanilla.
And by smoky, I don't mean the note that results from tobacco smoke, which is always rather spicy for me.
They have managed this slightly smoky, waxy note wonderfully in the Shalimar Millèsime flankers of recent years and I can imagine this combination of honey and waxy, smoky vanilla along with light spices very well. It wouldn't have needed more for me.
Of course, the word "Tabacco" in the name and the oud mentioned dampened my hopes a little.
The sweetness shouldn't be too squeaky, screamingly sweet, but should feel like being wrapped in a cuddly, waxy honeycomb.

The scent...

...is quickly described. It is a harmonious, well-balanced honey tobacco scent, which unfortunately comes as a complete surprise. For me, all the other notes are more of an accessory, not enough to create that certain sophistication that "the sniffing explorer bees" must have wanted.
For me, the oud note gives the fragrance a certain astringency right from the start, which I then associate more with "masculinity". It takes hours for the vanilla to free itself from the viscous honey and send its first signs of life.

Tobacco Honey seamlessly joins a long line of well-known tobacco-honey fragrances. It reminds me of more affordable variants such as Sexual Healing or Velvet Teddy, but Back to Black or H-100 Jubilèe also resonate here.

No question, it is a high-quality, beautiful fragrance for Guerlain, which certainly has its fans. Unfortunately, it doesn't meet my expectations as mentioned above and even for me as a cozy "sweet-toothed bumblebee" it is somehow boring. I can well understand the "sniffing explorer bees" who lack any novelty and for whom the fragrance is also too sweet.

I have the impression that Guerlain has tried to play it safe with Tobacco Honey. However, in this effort to cater to as broad a fan base as possible, they seem to have rather sat between 2 chairs... er beehives.
I'll fly on then.

4 Comments
Smellie13 3 years ago 10 4
9
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
"You can call me Iris..."
...she said with a saucy wink, smiling teasingly at me...

With iris it is so, I love it, in all its manifestations and facets, and should I ever find my holy fragrance grail, I am deeply convinced that it will be a fragrance with iris.
I assume that I am not alone in this forum and generally among fragrance lovers, and so I hypothesize that this iris enthusiasm of an imaginary "iris fan community" may well have already reached the fragrance manufacturers.
I even go one step further and dare to express the suspicion that the inclusion of the "irritant word iris" in the perfume name is very deliberately chosen to attract us iris fans like "moths to a flame".

..my heart immediately beat faster and as if hypnotized I followed her...

But what they may not have considered very carefully is the fact that very high expectations are automatically aroused in us. And we know that the higher the expectation, the greater the subsequent possible disappointment.
And I think that's exactly what happened to me and to the statements to conclude also some others with Call Me Iris.

...what she had promised me so promising with her self-confident appearance, she could unfortunately not keep when getting to know her. If I did not focus directly on her, it could happen that I was not really aware of her at all. Where was only the fiery flash in the eyes, where was only her charisma gone...

What is already noticeable after a short time, is unfortunately really very very weak projection, and I think that is already disappointing for a fragrance of this price range.
Unlike my pre-writers but I can actually perceive all the listed fragrance notes well. I think it's already so that you get what's on it.

The fragrance starts peppery-powdery-citrusy. Pepper and citrus notes keep the balance well, it is not a tangy sour fresh note, but rather you get the impression of a tart, tickling the nose lemon.
Gradually, also hand in hand, the iris and incense come on stage. The iris works through the persistent light citrus note so similar to Nuée Bleue or Poudre Désir, remotely it may also remind you of the "Prada iris".
With incense in fragrances I have not so many (good) experiences, because it seems to me soon once too strong. That is different here, I smell clearly incense, but in a very restrained form. Together with the iris creates an almost ethereal in the air seemingly come to a halt fragrance cloud.
Gradually joins a sweetish woody note, which then bridges into a beautiful vanilla base. The vanilla is slightly smoky, slightly woody-spicy, and not particularly sweet to my sensation. It is similar to the base of Mitsio Vanille, or probably more familiar, of Eau Duelle. The previously rather smoky-powdery consistency gradually transforms into balsamic, and every now and then I at least imagine to actually perceive the smell of pine needles.

...finally, I took the time to engage with her, and so she had the opportunity to let me look behind her put on "iris facade" and what I saw there, I then liked quite well...

Interestingly, I can also note the following: this morning I scented myself with Quelques Fleurs Royal Extrait. I could still detect it after a couple of hours, but was ready for another scent and sprayed on Call Me Iris. This resulted in a real booster effect. As if the already rather settling molecules were refreshed and uplifted again, while being complemented with another interesting note. This really strong and remarkable effect reminds me of the layer effect of Molecule fragrances.

...So where I had meant to miss character and profile after my first disappointment, my counterpart turned out to be a radiant, coherently resting being. Extroverted and loud, no loud she really is not, but meanwhile I enjoy the unobtrusive harmonic being together with her. Also a meeting with others works smoothly and proves to be enriching.

And by now I'm almost convinced that Iris might actually be her real name...

4 Comments
Smellie13 3 years ago 26 12
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The summer scarf of our fragrance wardrobe
With the concept of creating a fragrance from individual purely synthetic scents, Geza Schön created something innovative in the early 2000s. He packaged the molecule Iso Super E, previously used in other perfumes as a fragrance enhancer, quasi solo and undiluted in perfume form.

As unique the idea and as special the fragrances are in their effect, all "Molecules" could not really inspire me so far.
They have already impressed me by their softness and by the flattering effect. Once you perceive them clearly, then they are gone again, then they come back, like an on / off surprise effect, which you can not control yourself.
For direct comparison, I now refer to "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules", and this was with me more set to Off, I could hardly perceive it and it was then for my taste but a little too one-sided woody.

As a big iris fan, I was of course still very excited about "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules", but had not really expected that I would like the fragrance so well.
Right away, I feel it much less woody than the normal Molecule 01, it is here rather so a fresh ethereal woody scent. At the same time, this slightly "tingly Molecule feeling" in the nose, which provides a very special fragrance experience for our ver- and accustomed noses, is also present here.
And I can perceive him quite clearly and consistently and over a long time in the best way.
So equal already 'times two plus points away.

"Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" has me from the first spray away flashed and I jump joyfully directly into the middle of the fan community.
The scent is like sailing into home fragrance haven, like something I had always secretly hoped existed.
Sprayed on from the bottle, the radiant molecules immediately jump out at you with open arms.Along for the ride, equal side by side, is a soft citrus note paired with a sweet-tart note that reminds me of lavender.
The whole gives a very clean straight impression and it triggers with me instantly summer associations, the lemon gives a certain freshness kick and this tart-aromatic note reminds of the scent of various grasses.

Once "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" has rushed towards you in all its glory, it gives you a warm, soft hug and then wraps itself around you like a light, airy purple-citrus summer scarf. It's softness at its best, accompanying you along your movements like a soft billowing scarf cloud. I perceive the scent rather cool, so I also see silvery-grey threads interwoven with it.

A comparison with "Intense So Iris | Montale" is quite appropriate, it is absolutely the same iris vibes: dry makeup iris, juicy lemon and soft powdery wood. In comparison, I find the citrus note in "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" to be much more subtle and the scent is generally a lot softer. In the "Intense So Iris | Montale" was me with time also the musk note a little too much and the fragrance has taken on a slightly masculine character for me.

The Molecule fragrances were also designed for layering, they are intended to extend the shelf life of other fragrances and strengthen individual notes, so that they get a certain new drive.
I was not a big fan of layering until now. By all means, the one or other time a pleasant combination has resulted, for example, when the scent remnants of the previous day on a cloth mixed with the current fragrance of the day. But most of the time it is a pity for me then but the uniqueness of the fragrances.
When layering with "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" I experience a certain paradoxical effect. On the one hand, it makes the layered scents rounder and softer, on the other hand, it highlights individual facets. And intriguingly, this blending happens in just the right way, what was perhaps a bit too much in one fragrance is subtly stripped back and other facets are enhanced and more present. It's still recognizable as the same fragrance, but a variation of it emerges, so to speak.

Initially, I have my Irisdüfte together with the "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules "worn, meanwhile I have come to the conviction that all fragrances are quite wonderful combinable with it, even Gourmanddüfte.
He is therefore versatile.
Variant 1:I wear in the morning a day fragrance and the same also "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" on.
Variant 2: "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" comes only in the course of the day to it, when the other fragrance already loses a bit of radiance.
Variant 3: "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" is worn solo.

With "Molecule 01 + Iris | Escentric Molecules" you have so on the one hand a beautiful single piece, but which is also perfectly wearable with all other pieces of his fragrance wardrobe.
I'm really going in love and just waiting for the summer.




12 Comments
Smellie13 3 years ago 17 6
10
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
La dolce vita
Sent briefly ahead: those of you who are less interested in my allegorical frame story are welcome to jump right in at my olfactory impressions in the text at the point "to the flacon".

Under the category "new and noteworthy" on the Parfumo home page, the five cheerfully colorful Bvlgari flacons of the Allegra series at the beginning of the year immediately attracted my attention.
About the flacons in classic Zuckerlform one can certainly strongly disagree, I personally oute myself as the inclination group "love at first sight" belonging. From the color combination has appealed to me Rock'n'Rome the most and fortunately the fragrance pyramid has also aroused my greatest interest.
When I slowly began at the end of March to recover from a physically and also mentally stressful illness (you guessed it perhaps already, it has me actually this nasty Covid-19 virus had caught), I could use every conceivable positive feeling for the healing process.
My room to maneuver was still severely limited at that point, so I enjoyed three online purchases. My choices were a colorful summer dress, a shiny gray metallic leather bag, and rock 'n' Rome.

According to perfumer Jacques Cavallier, each fragrance in the collection is meant to represent a certain Italian attitude towards life. And voilà, since we all know the secret of the space/time travel magic of fragrances, I found myself wearing my new dress on the terrace of a cozy café in Rome's old town.
It's a warm spring day, I'm in pleasant company, and my gaze falls on a venerable piazza, in the middle of which a picturesque fountain makes pleasantly soothing splashing sounds; in short-I'm in the midst of la dolce vita.
The small glass bottle with viscous yellow-golden nectar, familiar from earlier Italian vacations and coveted from childhood days, stands in front of me and exudes its fruity-enticing apricot scent. It's accompanied by hot chocolate, which is slightly smoky to my nose. In between, I sniff my new soft leather bag. My companion behaves pleasantly quiet at my side, he does not demand my attention, but enjoys with me this wonderful sensual moment.

To the flacon:
The 100ml bottle has surprised me with its size - it belongs with its 13 centimeters height and 5 centimeters width with the largest bottles in my collection. The color is in natura just as beautiful and colorful as shown in the pictures. The finish leaves nothing to be desired and is with its gold and glass elements detailed worked and the heavy stubble very valuable. The spray is smooth, but quite strong, so dosing is rather difficult, although you can hardly overdose the fragrance-but later.

To the fragrance:
Rock'n'Rome starts with a sour-citrus note, which changes after a few seconds in a fresh fruit note. My nose reaches the authentic scent of apricots, which are accompanied from the outset by a subtle leather note.
Although the bottle would suggest it, the apricot fragrance has no squeaky candy sweetness, but actually smells like juicy apricots.
Perfumer Jacques Cavallier describes Rock'n' Rome as liqueur-like.
Liqueur in the sense of alcohol I can not understand so, although I actually now and then in a certain phase of the fragrance course also the one or other overripe fruit to perceive, but fortunately this light touch is always immediately over again. However, if he means this thick consistency of a delicious apricot nectar, I find it again very appropriate.
The fruity-floral scent of osmanthus goes here as a powdery peach note a very harmonious melange with the apricot. Unlike in Le Gemme - Coralia, the leather note of osmanthus shows up here very soft and subtle and in no way salient or synthetic. I really only smell it when I hold my nose directly to the scented area. Otherwise, it probably contributes to a certain elegance and lifts the fragrance from the pack of arbitrary fruit perfumes, which can also easily drift once into the girliehafte.
When the fragrance turns towards the base, the apricot leaves part of its presence to the benzoin. Rock'n'Rome then also gets a certain balsamic note, which fits in quite wonderfully and now adds a suitable groundedness and also cuddliness to the fragrance. If I sniff again directly at the fragrant place, I can perceive chocolate aroma.

But...
For all those who like to wear statement fragrances, I can not make a recommendation. Rock'n'Rome is really a very subtle fragrance. It's a nice fragrance, balanced in its components, has an interesting progression, but its sillage is definitely weak. It's a quiet companion that's there for you to enjoy when you consciously turn to it, but otherwise tends to stay in the background. The longevity is definitely there at a couple of hours, but it takes such a conscious attention-getting after a while to notice it. Who, on the other hand, is looking for a light unobtrusive fragrance for the warmer seasons, is quite well advised with him.
Possibly, the weak sillage is quite intended, since the five colorful Allegraflakons with another five so-called Magnifying Essences (50ml, white, also in Zuckerlform) were launched. Those are intended to complement the perfume by certain notes-available are Musk, Bergamot, Patchouli, Vanilla and Rose- refining and more personal.

For me, Rock'n'Rome is a very cheerful and fun-loving fragrance that fits perfectly in the spring or summer time. He exudes lightness and lightheartedness and has despite its restrained appearance the power to trigger pleasant childhood memories or to catapult us also as described in the middle of la dolce vita
6 Comments
Smellie13 3 years ago 36 7
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Opulence in perfection
Originally, before I tested the fragrance, has appealed to me at Delina Exclusif mainly the bottle.
It consists of matte pink glass with ornamental structure, a heavy valuable metal stubble with a glitter stone on it and playful silk pompons. It's anything but plain, of course, and the lush squiggly style has to suit you.
He is the antithesis, so to speak, to a minimalist design, which I appreciate in principle very well also.
But I've been in the category often bitterly disappointed when under the guise of minimalism fragrances with costs of 2 € / ml upwards in containers were offered from simply inferior materials. Simple badly fitting tin or plastic stubs, crookedly glued paper labels and clumsy sprayers without dosed spray have already diminished the joy of one or the other fragrance. But back to Delina Exclusif.

As I now know, The flacon of in its opulence fits quite wonderfully to the fragrance contained therein.
On the fragrance I was originally not particularly curious, he falls so not at all in my Beuteschema. Thanks to the dear Sweetsmell I could test him now two years after appearance finally but.
Delina Exclusif is described as quite sweet. This together with the fragrance notes rose and oud has just not appealed to me. From rose I have smelled me for some time and oud I simply do not like, it usually disgusts me already in small doses all fragrances, in which it is included.

Sprayed on now Delina Exclusif is very well all that - floral-sweet, fruity-rosy and also a subtle oud note I can perceive quite. But as so often the whole is more than the sum of the parts.
The fragrance starts with a fruity-fresh note, slightly acidic, I would have guessed something like rhubarb, but is probably the combination of pear and lychee. As already described by Organzalady, Delina Exclusif presents its full splendour shortly afterwards, like a rose blossom that quickly unfolds and reveals its previously veiled secrets. A true fragrance explosion blows you there: a sweet-fruity strawberry note mixes with a downright beguiling powdery rose scent.
The oud note gives the whole on the one hand an oriental touch, on the other hand, it keeps this sweet opulent team also in check, so that it can not slide into the squeaky kitschy cheap. I have the image of an oriental dessert served on a cool plain silver tray as a counterpoint, so to speak.
There's also a subtle smoky note to it, and the vanillic increases a bit as the fragrance progresses. But as I said, the fragrance does not undergo too great a transformation.

Delina Exclusif is a playful fragrance and gives a fun-loving feeling, but at the same time it is a very feminine and I mean also sensual fragrance. It is not stingy with its charms, generously presents all its attributes and I find it amazing that I do not soon get tired of this opulence. Somehow I have become quite the opposite downright addicted to it.
And I think that for reasons described also Oudgegner can give him a chance like me.
The scent is really lush, not to overlook or "over-smell", a sparing dosage is therefore required. Nachsprühen is not necessary, it does not run out of breath even after many hours.
Delina Exclusif is really great composed, all components are extremely finely interwoven, nothing stands out, which is already impressive in view of the strong players.
As I said, the whole is clearly more than the sum of its parts.
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