Smellie13

When searching for a suitable title for this commentary, I first had "the breathed kiss" in mind due to the weak sillage and durability mentioned several times before.

Then I tried my hand at free association. Lipstick Fever...lipstick fever...and I already had the image of one of those old ladies before my eyes, who feverishly want to keep their younger selves alive optically, but unfortunately sometimes overshoot the mark a bit. The following appearance appears: neatly dressed up to conspicuously trendy, a blow-dry wave in her more than slightly purple hair and boldly presented make-up. The lips are so heavily made up that the actual edge of the lipstick, probably also due to the lack of a steady hand and a sharp eye due to the age, competes with today's botoxpractice.

The tragicomedy of the same name by Friedrich Dürrenmatt was merely a further step in the association, but plays no further role in this commentary except as its title.

And I don't want to express that "Lipstick Fever" is somehow old-fashioned or old-fashioned

To the fragrance:

As a member of the "Lipstick" inclination group here in this forum, I was already looking forward to receiving my sample ;-) and read the first descriptions very curiously. After 3 days of personal testing I can understand almost all the comments I have made so far ;-)

The similarity to "Replica - Lipstick On" is striking in the first phase of the fragrance, I'd even see him as a twin, although "Lipstick Fever" is in my opinion less waxy and a little less sweet (which I'm glad about), but more powdery in comparison.

A connection to Malle's "Lipstick Rose" was also mentioned in a forum thread. In my opinion, the common denominator here is the violet-powdery lipstick projection in the scent. The malle differs in the prominent presence of the rose and a vintage charm; both are not present in "Lipstick Fever".

The presented lipstick note is very authentic and wonderful at the beginning, but unfortunately, as with all lipstick fragrances, it does not remain in this form for very long

At the beginning I can smell a slightly fruity raspberry, but as it progresses I only perceive it pleasantly lightly in the projection, on my skin it disappears completely, leaving nothing of it. The scent reminds me a little bit of "French Kiss", when this lipstick-berry note wafts around me

If I sniff directly on the skin after some time, I can unfortunately also perceive absolutely no lipstick scent anymore. I feel it then rather as already described by @ Serduszko as powdery-spicy violet/iris scent. Another Guerlain scent came into my mind, namely "Cuir Beluga". "Sweet" is only a side note, and the fragrance is absolutely unisex from then on at the latest

And I can also locate the pungent note described by @ Baerlie, although I find it more like a tickling in the nose, which is not unpleasant for me.

With the slightly woody note that comes with it, it reminded me more of "Armani Privé - Rose d'Artiste" than of "Liquid Illusion". The latter had a rather clear synthetic note, which I fortunately don't notice in "Lipstick Fever".

As I have observed so often, the more often I wear it, the better and longer I can perceive the scent. The spray bursts from the original sample unfortunately don't give much and I can imagine that the scent sprayed directly from the bottle or from a pen also gives more substance and endurance.

In the projection I can also perceive something pleasantly creamy again and again, it smells very well-groomed and also like a good make-up.

All in all, I think the fragrance is quite pleasing. It is certainly a pleasant companion, which blows around your nose with different facets and therefore doesn't get boring very fast. It keeps the balance between lipstick, slightly berry, powdery-spicy, creamy and make-up. So all of them are nothing new or special, but if you like these directions, you are probably well served.

To pick up on the painted cover once again: unlike the lovely old lady with her make-up, there's actually nothing wrong with the fragrance.

And considering the appealing red bottle, I can well imagine that the fragrance will be absorbed by me.

Oh, and I'll order the lipstick-scented candle "Marilyn Candle" as well. That's what @Behaviour has made me very curious about. Maybe it will bring the permanent lipstick wafts that the whole "lipstick fraction" here dreams of ;-)

When I read the first descriptions of "The Muse", I was immediately very impressed.

I can imagine that, as so often, early coinage plays a role here. So I have always loved the smell of dry cleaning, hot ironing, freshly ironed or air-dried laundry. And even if I personally prefer to use a liquid natural detergent, I like to stick my nose into a conventional detergent box every now and then.

I think if you don't like these smells and don't have a certain weakness for "artificial" scents, you won't be happy with "The Muse".
So in my case, the hope for a concentrated load of positive childhood memories has activated my blind buying finger.

Here now my impressions:
First of all, it was not love at first sight.
As already mentioned in several descriptions, "The Muse" starts already very violently strong and stinging, as if you put your nose a little bit too deep into the detergent box. Everything at once streams in on me, the lack of heat, the dry cleaning, the washing powder. The air-dried laundry, if any, is completely drowned out by the other components.
As I also mentioned in a statement, I would generally rate "The Muse" less as a perfume and more as a smell.

After the first heavy odour has disappeared, I find "The Muse" at first exclusively fresh-synthetic. For me there are no flowers, no fruit, no powder and no wood perceptible. It's only late in the base that this typical subtle woody note, as we know it from other purely synthetic fragrances, comes up

For me there is nothing comparable in the world of fragrances so far. For me there is no similarity to fragrances like the Prada infusions or various "relatives". The only connecting thing may be the "clean bear component", but it has been implemented here in a completely different way. Maybe "Blanche" from Byredo is similar in terms of the detergent note. But there this comprehensive "processed laundry note" is missing

My associations with "The Muse" are glistening-bright, radiant, but also familiar and homely.

After having studied the fragrance in detail in the last few days, I have now found the right dosage for me. And it is extremely delicate. It works best when I spray into the air and go through the fragrance mist. That way I avoid the initially pungent synthetic charge and the scent can soon unfold.
If I use too much, which in this case is a simple whole spray directly on my skin, the fragrance remains extremely dense and I smell nothing but a pungent synthetic note. In the best case I then have the impression of detergent. In our household we use a liquid odourless organic detergent, as already mentioned, because I don't like my clothes smelling of detergent. So it would probably be completely counterproductive to spray this detergent smell on me consciously.

In the optimal dosage and unfolding I can now perceive the announced "extreme clean musk" with a touch of hot lack of taste. Every now and then a washing agent note still blows around my nose, but it is so delicate that it can easily be transformed into the freshly dried laundry association. So subtly sprayed, the scent is now fun. So all's well that ends well.

I can also imagine that it can be laid quite well. I will still experiment and maybe there will be an addendum to this.

We all have more or less our own scent preferences. One likes it oriental, the other flowery etc. and this is also nothing that has to be carved in stone forever and sometimes even fluctuates by the day. So I liked rose scents a few years ago, meanwhile I "eroded" myself from them and don't want to wear them anymore.
My scent interests today are quite broadly diversified, superficially my baggage scheme now includes for quite a long time above all iris scents of all kinds.
So far so good, "superficial" was the cue.
In the forum there has always been the question which fragrances one likes to smell besides perfume.
You like to sniff paint or gasoline, love the smell of wet streets and dusty libraries etc. and on the other hand you can't really imagine wanting to smell it yourself. In my case it is mainly the smell of limy dusty stone, as you can see on some building sites, and earthy vaulting (but still on the edge of the typical musty cellar patchouli scent). Although I use liquid natural detergent, I like to sniff the almost pungently pure powder detergent and I love the smell of the cold winter air that tickles my nose *outing ending*.
I now call these fragrances 'fetish fragrances', because it is rather unusual in a perfume shop to answer the consultant's interested question about the fragrance preferences with cellar stink or building site fragrance
Interestingly enough I might have "inherited" this to my daughter, too, quasi in step we stop abruptly at the way, if e.g. from a building site this mentioned smell blows towards us and stretches the nose trancegleich towards the smell source.
I had never dared to hope that I would ever encounter these fragrances in the form of a perfume, and yet this is exactly what happened to California Snow. The comments were very promising and I was really overwhelmed to find all my secret scent preferences in a perfume at the first application.
The fragrance is extremely mineral-dusty, dry, after a short time this wonderfully musty smell is also perceptible, but only if you sniff directly at the skin or sprayed fabric. Then "the detergent" and "the winter air" are added and result in a tailor-made mixture of my "fetish scents".
And who now thinks that I can only carry and enjoy this sweetheart in secret is mistaken. The best thing is that California Snow is quite presentable and well wearable!
From the projection point of view I would describe it as a clean scent, powdery to thick-creamy, minimally rosy, never sweet, everything is very harmoniously interwoven. And yet no clean scent known to me comes close to him. The direction could possibly be Love, Chloé, as already mentioned in a statement, but in a less sweet-flowery way. But by that I really only mean the DNA, the scent is absolutely unisex. Actually, in my opinion it would also pass as a powdery "iris scent".
Apart from the damp earth and with a lot of fantasy camomile I can't smell any of the fragrances mentioned above.
The Sillage is mediocre to good and the shelf life with a few hours for an edP satisfactory.
So the fantastic thing about California Snow is that I have a good portable and interesting scent, but I can still sniff out these "fetishnotes" all the time. It's an absolute addictive substance for me, and I hope now that it's not just due to the cannabis it contains... ;-)
A bottle is on its way to me and now I'm curious to see if it's actually as if it can be guessed from the pictures, even pearly. Then my happiness would be complete.

"Brighton Rock" is part of Miller Harris' Colour Collection together with "Blousy" and "Ida Violet" (2018), which were also newly released. Three fragrances designed to capture the different facets of Brighton, also known as "London next the Sea". Slightly faded glamour, fun, music, salty and candy-candied air, combined with an ubiquitous urban undertone, should be captured by these fragrances in different facets according to the manufacturer's side.
Furthermore, these three perfumes are supposed to take up the era and tone of Graham Greene's 1930s novel Brighton Rock of the same name and bring that nostalgic atmosphere into the fragrance.
I first had to read the contents of the novel, it is probably a psychological thriller or rather a fatal love story, playing in the gangster milieu. Interestingly, there is a novel character named Ida Arnold, who probably inspired "Ida Violet" with her name!?
I don't want to bore you with further theory, anyway the added value of these stories constructed around a fragrance or an actual background story is put there. You can tell you a lot there...
In this special case, however, I was in the exciting position of being able to sniff the information directly and that was the case: last week my husband and I visited our daughter. She's doing an internship, you can guess, in Brighton.
The day before I read here on Parfumo about the new release "Brighton Rock" and found this coincidence very funny. I also loved the sugar colour of the bottle.
Back to the beach in Brighton and finally to the fragrance:
First I smell a fruity rose, which evokes a guerlinade association due to a very rich round scent mixture.
Probably because of the ozonic and salty notes I can understand a beach feeling well. Candied sweets are added and due to a pink-powdery make-up note (slightly synthetic) I can also imagine the nostalgia in my head cinema.
The fragrance is light, almost ethereal, but lasts very long. In the base remains a wonderful creamy vanilla-mandelige heliotropic note paired with fresh lily of the valley. According to the pyramid I seem to perceive lily of the valley and sweets in a quasi reversed way...
There's one thing I didn't tell you. Again and again a synthetic (plastic) note swings into my nose, reminiscent of petrochemistry. This can be smelled especially on the scent strip or on clothing. To be honest, I don't like this note very much and I wouldn't have needed it, and I don't know what it's made of. But from the moment I had imagined a tanker passing by, it fits again and rounds off the beach feeling ;-)
I summarize: for me a great bottle, a pleasant fragrance, a personal story about it on the one hand, on the other hand I can easily understand the picture drawn by the manufacturer in my head.
"Brighton Rock" is therefore a wonderful memory of the visit to our daughter in Brighton and much more than a perfume.
If you "need" the fragrance without this story, you have to find out for yourself. I find it pleasant, but I'm sure it's not a highlight that you haven't smelled yet.
But in my case it just fits and my dear daughter will have a bottle for me in her luggage on her return journey tomorrow :-)

Like many other Iris- and "Panthea"-Fans here I waited hot for "Panthea Iris" and could test it last week directly at Harrods.
In order to warn against possible blind quick shots, I have already written a short statement. Now a bit more detailed:
"Panthea Iris" starts with a nice carotty dry note, which is very fine, if you like it like me. It might remind you a little of Iris Nazarena. This dry iris stays in the foreground for some time and I don't really find it to be a nice perfume scent, but it seems to be rather imperfect and has almost annoyed me with time. It looks cool, almost hard, also metallic came to me in the wider sense. I think there's a good portion of musk in there, it's almost something like hairspray, just a little bit, but it keeps that cool impression.
Then I sprayed "Panthea" in comparison and it looks more floral and finished from the beginning. So far I would never have thought of the "Panthea" as a "floral" category, but in a direct comparison it has something floral.
Apropos "Panthea"... "Iris Panthea" slowly changes after about half an hour in the direction of "Panthea", this typical creamy note is now added more and more. Then the scents get closer and closer and after about 1 hour I feel them from the projection as good as the same! "Panthea Iris is a little more accentuated, less soft than Panthea. But I sniff this difference only directly at the strip, not on the skin or in the projection.
To be honest, tuberose would not have occurred to me, especially not the way I usually perceive it, in the direction of chewing gum or orange blossom. I would speak of a maximum of generally white-flowering fragrant, but as I said the "Panthea" is in comparison over long distances even much more floral.
I have so the picture that on the "Panthea" relatively lovelessly a tidy iris portion was set on it, which connects itself in no way harmoniously with the remainder smell, but pushes first very cheekily into the first row and then simply evaporates with the time

So, as I said, even for courageous iris fans there is no unrestricted recommendation to buy from me. And "Panthea" owners probably already have exactly the scent they love with their bottle.