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The obituary - a whole community mourns and loses a part of itself
The funeral procession just crossed the cemetery to the last escort of the deceased. The weather was typical April weather, but the mourners were warmed by the sunny rays that occasionally broke through the cloud cover. The fact that the sun was shining was the last highlight of the glorious career of the deceased, as "APOM" unfolded best in these rays of sunshine. And so there was also a smile on the faces of most of the mourners, for the thought of this faithful companion touched the hearts of all.
Among the guests were many younger ones who knew they would never hold a candle to "APOM". Among those present were "L'Homme a la rose" or "Petit matin", who always tried hard to emulate their idols, but would never reach them.
But also heavyweights like "Grand Soir" or "Oud Satin Mood" have set out to pay their last respects to their older brother. Still others were also already in the ground, most notably "Lumiere Noire Homme".
None of those present could understand why the best among them had to die so early. So there was also great sadness and anger among the guests, as they simply could not understand. Nevertheless, the mourning was welcomed, as it is a process that helps to cope with the loss of a companion. However, not only grieving itself, but also remembering the deceased is an essential part of the grieving process as well as honoring and remembering the one who has been laid to rest.
When the funeral procession finally came to a halt at the designated grave, "Grand Soir" broke away from the crowd and began the eulogy:
"Dear brother, dear role model, dear APOM,
a full seven years older than I, you were always an anchor in turbulent times for many for those gathered here today, and thus always a part of us. With your fresh, flowery and also slightly sweet nature, you always brought a smile to the lips of those who were privileged to know you. Yes, you were a simple contemporary, you clearly stood against modern frills and fleeting trends. You were sensual, warm and almost tender. But you were also noble, classic and timeless from the very beginning. And even if your inner concentration was not one of the strongest, you were always radiant and always accompanied your loved ones for a long time.
You were the epitome of the classic man of the world and never pretended to be anything else. You were able to provide comfort and were just there when you were needed. You combined your penchant for orange blossom and cedar like no one before you or after you. Yes, you weren't loved by everyone, but you were loved by a lot. Some thought you were old-fashioned, but I say you were always up-to-date and on the cutting edge.
Happy can consider themselves, who was allowed to experience you during your lifetime and even happier can consider themselves those who can carry you even longer in their hearts and on their skin. We will miss you, beloved brother, you were and are irreplaceable. We will all remember you forever and can only hope that one day someone will emerge who can follow in your great footsteps. You were always a part of us and will forever remain a part of us!"
With these words, the last remains of "APOM" were laid to rest, and the mourners slowly dispersed, each one hanging on to their own thoughts. But now the sun finally came out and each and every one of them knew that "APOM" would watch over them from now on and always at the first warm rays of the sun all of them would remember "APOM".
Among the guests were many younger ones who knew they would never hold a candle to "APOM". Among those present were "L'Homme a la rose" or "Petit matin", who always tried hard to emulate their idols, but would never reach them.
But also heavyweights like "Grand Soir" or "Oud Satin Mood" have set out to pay their last respects to their older brother. Still others were also already in the ground, most notably "Lumiere Noire Homme".
None of those present could understand why the best among them had to die so early. So there was also great sadness and anger among the guests, as they simply could not understand. Nevertheless, the mourning was welcomed, as it is a process that helps to cope with the loss of a companion. However, not only grieving itself, but also remembering the deceased is an essential part of the grieving process as well as honoring and remembering the one who has been laid to rest.
When the funeral procession finally came to a halt at the designated grave, "Grand Soir" broke away from the crowd and began the eulogy:
"Dear brother, dear role model, dear APOM,
a full seven years older than I, you were always an anchor in turbulent times for many for those gathered here today, and thus always a part of us. With your fresh, flowery and also slightly sweet nature, you always brought a smile to the lips of those who were privileged to know you. Yes, you were a simple contemporary, you clearly stood against modern frills and fleeting trends. You were sensual, warm and almost tender. But you were also noble, classic and timeless from the very beginning. And even if your inner concentration was not one of the strongest, you were always radiant and always accompanied your loved ones for a long time.
You were the epitome of the classic man of the world and never pretended to be anything else. You were able to provide comfort and were just there when you were needed. You combined your penchant for orange blossom and cedar like no one before you or after you. Yes, you weren't loved by everyone, but you were loved by a lot. Some thought you were old-fashioned, but I say you were always up-to-date and on the cutting edge.
Happy can consider themselves, who was allowed to experience you during your lifetime and even happier can consider themselves those who can carry you even longer in their hearts and on their skin. We will miss you, beloved brother, you were and are irreplaceable. We will all remember you forever and can only hope that one day someone will emerge who can follow in your great footsteps. You were always a part of us and will forever remain a part of us!"
With these words, the last remains of "APOM" were laid to rest, and the mourners slowly dispersed, each one hanging on to their own thoughts. But now the sun finally came out and each and every one of them knew that "APOM" would watch over them from now on and always at the first warm rays of the sun all of them would remember "APOM".
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The scent of Tony Soprano, or "Don't stop believing."
Dua Fragrances is a perfume house that is known for recreating fragrance clones of famous perfumes, or combining two fragrance DNAs. Each fragrance has its own creative name, and the interesting thing is the combination of them.
So "Midnight Rendezvous" is the fragrance clone to "La Nuit de L'Homme" and "An evening with the mobster" is the equivalent to "Creation-E" by Roja Parfums. If you now combine both, you get this "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster", so a combination of "La Nuit de L'Homme" and "Creation-E" or "Enigma".
Now the special thing about it (according to Dua Fragrance) is that this is the vintage formulations of both fragrance DNAs and the best of both fragrances were combined. The highlight of the matter is now that this is also still to get at a significantly lower price than the original, at least that applies to Roja Parfums. Whereby this is of course also to be seen relatively. A 30ml bottle on the Dua Fragrances site of "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" costs $65, just under 60 euros. If you now take into account that the flacons come from the U.S. and accordingly for shipping and possibly customs costs are added again, the price is then soon at 80 € - 90 € for 30ml; that is then already priced Tom Ford territory, but after all, it is also an Extrait de Parfum.
Nevertheless, I could hardly believe my luck when I saw "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" by chance while browsing the Dua Fragrances page, so it was considered discontinued, as can be read here on the Parfumo entry accordingly. You should just never stop believing (thus my admittedly somewhat far-fetched reference to the title "Don't stop believing", the famous song of the last episode of the even more famous series "The Sopranos", with the eponymous main character Tony Soprano, the mobster-in-chief).
So I have also not long fackelt (make mobster also not) and struck (unlike the mobster, but only in the figurative sense), the description sounded too tempting, especially since I know both fragrance godfathers (The Fragrance Godfathers) also and like.
Now it's finally here, after the first package was probably lost as well. Kindly, DUA responded helpfully and, after the shipping company acknowledged the loss after almost 2 months, shipped the fragrance a second time. This time it arrived to me within a week. "Don't stop believing".
So now for the fragrance...
"Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" clearly starts with "Enigma", speaking with a beautiful cola vibe. It's been a while since I tested "Enigma" but that's how I remember it - boozy, floral and a bit smoky along with the vanilla cola. A really great opening and very close to the original. There does seem to be a certain animalic quality to the scent though, so my wife probably smells some cat urine. This I do not, but a compliment getter in the opening the fragrance does not seem to be.
After about 45 minutes, the signs of a change then set in more and more strongly and one hears the first "La Nuit de L'Homme" fragrance notes. After about 3 hours, the fragrance has then changed and now the YSL fragrance is well recognizable, even if the cola note always remains in the background. Whether this is really the vintage version from 2010 then, I can't judge, but the scent comes across as rich and dense. The cardamom is just great and those who like "La Nuit de L'Homme" will definitely like this one too. "An evening with the mobster", by the way, I can also recommend to people who have been eyeing "Midnight Rendevous" by DUA but can't get it because it's constantly sold out. The present fragrance replicates "La Nuit de L'Homme" also beautifully, only just with the 3 hour prelude of "Enigma".
Thus, it is really two fragrances in one. And that is for me the very special highlight. So I find fragrances with a long shelf life great and consider this as a quality feature, but it is with me often so that I would like to put on after 4 hours or so already another fragrance, just to smell something else again. I seem to be very erratic :) Anyway, this fragrance offers just that! Initially clear "Enigma" vibes, towards the end more and more "La Nuit de L'Homme".
The sillage is DUA typical (although this is my first DUA) really very good and I perceive the fragrance on myself quite consistently strong. The fragrance remains on my skin 8-9 hours and thus leaves nothing to be desired. However, it is not such a H&S Mon(b)ster, as I might have expected from other DUA descriptions.
The bottle, by the way, is really as bad as it comes off here on Parfumo. It is a most simple glass bottle with a not even just applied sticker on the front. The lid is made of cheap plastic, but sits securely on the sprayer. The sprayer does its job quite well. Of course, companies can save money by producing only one size and shape of bottle and simply putting different stickers on it. This is to me but no matter, if the cost savings to the customer is passed on; which is apparently happening, with the but relatively low prices (shipping and customs times excluded).
Overall, so a really great fragrance that combines 2 top fragrances (place 16 and 17 respectively here on Parfumo) with each other and interweaves in a wonderful way. Here, top note is dedicated to one fragrance (Enigma) and the drydown ("La Nuit de L'Homme") the other. However, it must be said that even in the drydown "Enigma" constantly resonates and accompanies the fragrance all the time. So it's not like the scent completely transforms and is first one and then becomes the second. Overall, I also see "Enigma" as more present than "La Nuit de L'Homme", probably something like a 70% to 30% ratio.
In any case, a really great made fragrance, which is warmly recommended to anyone who likes even one of the two originals. However, with the small restriction that the scent may be neither fish nor fowl for some and therefore felt something can be missing if you want too much of one or the other.
So "Midnight Rendezvous" is the fragrance clone to "La Nuit de L'Homme" and "An evening with the mobster" is the equivalent to "Creation-E" by Roja Parfums. If you now combine both, you get this "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster", so a combination of "La Nuit de L'Homme" and "Creation-E" or "Enigma".
Now the special thing about it (according to Dua Fragrance) is that this is the vintage formulations of both fragrance DNAs and the best of both fragrances were combined. The highlight of the matter is now that this is also still to get at a significantly lower price than the original, at least that applies to Roja Parfums. Whereby this is of course also to be seen relatively. A 30ml bottle on the Dua Fragrances site of "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" costs $65, just under 60 euros. If you now take into account that the flacons come from the U.S. and accordingly for shipping and possibly customs costs are added again, the price is then soon at 80 € - 90 € for 30ml; that is then already priced Tom Ford territory, but after all, it is also an Extrait de Parfum.
Nevertheless, I could hardly believe my luck when I saw "Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" by chance while browsing the Dua Fragrances page, so it was considered discontinued, as can be read here on the Parfumo entry accordingly. You should just never stop believing (thus my admittedly somewhat far-fetched reference to the title "Don't stop believing", the famous song of the last episode of the even more famous series "The Sopranos", with the eponymous main character Tony Soprano, the mobster-in-chief).
So I have also not long fackelt (make mobster also not) and struck (unlike the mobster, but only in the figurative sense), the description sounded too tempting, especially since I know both fragrance godfathers (The Fragrance Godfathers) also and like.
Now it's finally here, after the first package was probably lost as well. Kindly, DUA responded helpfully and, after the shipping company acknowledged the loss after almost 2 months, shipped the fragrance a second time. This time it arrived to me within a week. "Don't stop believing".
So now for the fragrance...
"Midnight rendezvous with the mobster" clearly starts with "Enigma", speaking with a beautiful cola vibe. It's been a while since I tested "Enigma" but that's how I remember it - boozy, floral and a bit smoky along with the vanilla cola. A really great opening and very close to the original. There does seem to be a certain animalic quality to the scent though, so my wife probably smells some cat urine. This I do not, but a compliment getter in the opening the fragrance does not seem to be.
After about 45 minutes, the signs of a change then set in more and more strongly and one hears the first "La Nuit de L'Homme" fragrance notes. After about 3 hours, the fragrance has then changed and now the YSL fragrance is well recognizable, even if the cola note always remains in the background. Whether this is really the vintage version from 2010 then, I can't judge, but the scent comes across as rich and dense. The cardamom is just great and those who like "La Nuit de L'Homme" will definitely like this one too. "An evening with the mobster", by the way, I can also recommend to people who have been eyeing "Midnight Rendevous" by DUA but can't get it because it's constantly sold out. The present fragrance replicates "La Nuit de L'Homme" also beautifully, only just with the 3 hour prelude of "Enigma".
Thus, it is really two fragrances in one. And that is for me the very special highlight. So I find fragrances with a long shelf life great and consider this as a quality feature, but it is with me often so that I would like to put on after 4 hours or so already another fragrance, just to smell something else again. I seem to be very erratic :) Anyway, this fragrance offers just that! Initially clear "Enigma" vibes, towards the end more and more "La Nuit de L'Homme".
The sillage is DUA typical (although this is my first DUA) really very good and I perceive the fragrance on myself quite consistently strong. The fragrance remains on my skin 8-9 hours and thus leaves nothing to be desired. However, it is not such a H&S Mon(b)ster, as I might have expected from other DUA descriptions.
The bottle, by the way, is really as bad as it comes off here on Parfumo. It is a most simple glass bottle with a not even just applied sticker on the front. The lid is made of cheap plastic, but sits securely on the sprayer. The sprayer does its job quite well. Of course, companies can save money by producing only one size and shape of bottle and simply putting different stickers on it. This is to me but no matter, if the cost savings to the customer is passed on; which is apparently happening, with the but relatively low prices (shipping and customs times excluded).
Overall, so a really great fragrance that combines 2 top fragrances (place 16 and 17 respectively here on Parfumo) with each other and interweaves in a wonderful way. Here, top note is dedicated to one fragrance (Enigma) and the drydown ("La Nuit de L'Homme") the other. However, it must be said that even in the drydown "Enigma" constantly resonates and accompanies the fragrance all the time. So it's not like the scent completely transforms and is first one and then becomes the second. Overall, I also see "Enigma" as more present than "La Nuit de L'Homme", probably something like a 70% to 30% ratio.
In any case, a really great made fragrance, which is warmly recommended to anyone who likes even one of the two originals. However, with the small restriction that the scent may be neither fish nor fowl for some and therefore felt something can be missing if you want too much of one or the other.
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Between Two Ferns
Even if the previous comments on "Bracken" are all consistently very successful, there was now but for pretty much exactly a whole year no comment more, so I thought that I let the fragrance in the form of a review once new attention.
Rarely have I smelled a fragrance that smells so true to nature and authentic to a particular theme, here "fern". The name "Bracken" translated into German means, by the way, exactly that, so fern. Thereby I find the name for German ears a bit unfortunate chosen, because this always reminds me of "brackish water". But do not worry, so the fragrance has nothing to do.
Fern - so Barack Obama or even Charlize Theron may have felt, when they were between two ferns of Zach Galifianakis in the brazen cross-examination. For all those who do not know this quite successful interview comedy series, is recommended to look at once "Between Two Ferns" on YouTube
But now to the fragrance.
"Bracken Man" starts directly very fresh and directly "farn'ich". To whom this says nothing, can optionally imagine dry straw, this goes in a similar direction. Forest associations also come up with me. But not all forests are the same. The "Bracken" forest is not a dense, dark, wet forest, but rather a dry, light forest. I imagine a lake at a clearing with ferns growing on the shore. It may also have just rained, but not very hard, more like drizzle, and the raindrops are now condensing off the sunlit fern. In the Opening, the fragrance is thus very green and Fougère -artig.
So the fragrance then also remains about two hours before then a slight sweetness dazugesellt. This is certainly the cinnamon, which slowly fights its way to the front. Also, the fragrance becomes a little darker with time, a little heavier, earthier, certainly due to the patchouli. As if the sun now withdraws a little more and it begins to rain again. Now the smell of the damp forest floor also rises to the nose and complements the dry fern smell. Here the fragrance then reminds something of "Rain Wood".
After unfortunately already about 6-7 hours, the fragrance then sounds woody, but has a quite pleasant and perceptible sillage in the first two hours; after that it becomes relatively close to the skin. As a fougère, the fragrance naturally fits perfectly in spring or early summer, but it can certainly be worn well all year round. The fragrance is well suited for men over 30, because he comes along a bit classic, but this in a modern way, so that he can also wear younger.
The bottle is Amouage-typically an eye-catcher and comes across very high quality. The drawn fern on the bottle is not one of my favorite motifs, but of course fits perfectly to the fragrance.
Speaking of Amouage-typical. Many like to call the newer Amouage fragrances as not atypical for Amouage and tear the fragrance alone. Personally, I think it's good that Amouage is trying to develop itself further and is also going down daring paths. The theme of incense has been sufficiently served with Interlude, Jubilation, Epic and Journey Man. Even if I don't like all the new releases (I know quite a few Amouage by now), there are also great, successful newer fragrances from Amouage. And "Bracken Man" is for me clearly one of them, even if it is not at the top.
Rarely have I smelled a fragrance that smells so true to nature and authentic to a particular theme, here "fern". The name "Bracken" translated into German means, by the way, exactly that, so fern. Thereby I find the name for German ears a bit unfortunate chosen, because this always reminds me of "brackish water". But do not worry, so the fragrance has nothing to do.
Fern - so Barack Obama or even Charlize Theron may have felt, when they were between two ferns of Zach Galifianakis in the brazen cross-examination. For all those who do not know this quite successful interview comedy series, is recommended to look at once "Between Two Ferns" on YouTube
But now to the fragrance.
"Bracken Man" starts directly very fresh and directly "farn'ich". To whom this says nothing, can optionally imagine dry straw, this goes in a similar direction. Forest associations also come up with me. But not all forests are the same. The "Bracken" forest is not a dense, dark, wet forest, but rather a dry, light forest. I imagine a lake at a clearing with ferns growing on the shore. It may also have just rained, but not very hard, more like drizzle, and the raindrops are now condensing off the sunlit fern. In the Opening, the fragrance is thus very green and Fougère -artig.
So the fragrance then also remains about two hours before then a slight sweetness dazugesellt. This is certainly the cinnamon, which slowly fights its way to the front. Also, the fragrance becomes a little darker with time, a little heavier, earthier, certainly due to the patchouli. As if the sun now withdraws a little more and it begins to rain again. Now the smell of the damp forest floor also rises to the nose and complements the dry fern smell. Here the fragrance then reminds something of "Rain Wood".
After unfortunately already about 6-7 hours, the fragrance then sounds woody, but has a quite pleasant and perceptible sillage in the first two hours; after that it becomes relatively close to the skin. As a fougère, the fragrance naturally fits perfectly in spring or early summer, but it can certainly be worn well all year round. The fragrance is well suited for men over 30, because he comes along a bit classic, but this in a modern way, so that he can also wear younger.
The bottle is Amouage-typically an eye-catcher and comes across very high quality. The drawn fern on the bottle is not one of my favorite motifs, but of course fits perfectly to the fragrance.
Speaking of Amouage-typical. Many like to call the newer Amouage fragrances as not atypical for Amouage and tear the fragrance alone. Personally, I think it's good that Amouage is trying to develop itself further and is also going down daring paths. The theme of incense has been sufficiently served with Interlude, Jubilation, Epic and Journey Man. Even if I don't like all the new releases (I know quite a few Amouage by now), there are also great, successful newer fragrances from Amouage. And "Bracken Man" is for me clearly one of them, even if it is not at the top.
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My thanks to the community
XerJoff - a name in the world of fragrances, which stands for exclusivity and extravagance like no other. This begins with the fact that XerJoff fragrances are sold only at selected retailers, both online and in the presence world, and virtually without exception without discounts.
Casamorati fragrances thereby reflect Xerjoff's collection of vintage perfumes, inspired by the ancient art of Italian perfumery. In 1888, Claudio Casamorati founded the C. Casamorati perfume factory in Bologna. During these years of production, Casamorati received numerous awards and valuable rewards from major national and international exhibitions. Around the middle of the 20th century, Casamorati had to close the factory due to a financial crisis and so XerJoff came on the scene. Sergio Momo, founder of Xerjoff, decided to bring Casamorati back to the glory days of the early century and unceremoniously took over Casamorati.
Such a background, very well wonderfully marketed, naturally arouses desire. Since the lottery here on Parfumo to "Italica" came just right. And, after I had never really won my life something of importance, I was allowed to count myself all at once among the lucky winners. Now "Italica" finally arrived with me and I would like to share my impressions with you (not only in writing). But first to the fragrance.
Fragrance
There are probably very few fragrances, which polarize similar to "Italica". On the Internet, it goes there from sky-high jubilant ("Gourmand his father. Exceptionally good") to food poisoning-like expressions ("I got sick", "triggers nausea with me").
Interesting here is that "Italica" was probably re-released as a "re-release" again, since he was apparently discontinued in the meantime. So he is also led on some Internet sites as "Italica 2021". Whether the fragrance was reformulated thereby, will probably remain a secret forever.
To take it right away - for me "Italica" is a beautiful fragrance, although no masterpiece. However, I can also understand why he seems to trigger a nausea in some. The fragrance is indeed on the borderline of oversweetness with an intense deep almond/marzipan note. For me, this tightrope walk is quite skillful and does not tip over in the process, but if you are a little oversensitized here, it can probably come to a nausea inducing association.
At the same time, I agree with all the comments that associate "Italica" with Italian pastries. Add to that a cappuccino or straight up amaretto and the Italy induced association in the mind is perfect. So seen the name fits naturally like the tomato sauce to the Spaghetti.
Overall, the fragrance also goes through only a minimal transformation and that only in the drydown. Then namely the sweet marzipan note is pushed a little more into the background and woods and musk make themselves wide. This does the fragrance quite well, as it takes away some of that pungent deep marzipan note. Saffron also contributes to the overall picture, although quite subdued, which suits me very well, because I do not like too strong saffron notes (too medicinal).
So the fragrance remains then also good and happy 8 hours on the skin and radiates quite neatly. For me, the fragrance is also unisex, he has but besides the sweetness also quite a deep, perhaps even tart marzipan note, which gives the fragrance even something dark or even oriental. Thus, he is of course mainly in autumn and winter to wear, but in times of Corona and home office, gladly also in midsummer alone in front of the computer.
The bottle is XerJoff according to all doubts and deserves the highest praise. By this dark magenta he is for me the most beautiful bottle of the already very beautiful Casamorati Flakonreihe.
So for whom is this fragrance now suitable? First and foremost, of course, for gourmand lovers. However, the fragrance is also to be enjoyed with caution. Who would like to play it safe and find in the XerJoff universe, should perhaps rather reach for "Lira" or try "Naxos", if it should be a little more noble. Nevertheless "Italica" has its right to exist, in my opinion it is artistically more valuable and therefore more interesting. For the masses probably rather nothing, but they reach anyway rather rarely to XerJoff. So if you like it a little more extravagant and are into gourmand fragrances, you should definitely give "Italica" a try. Speaking of...
I would like to express my gratitude to this great community and give away some of my luck. Therefore, I give away 5x5ml to the first five commenters on this review . Only the shipping of 3,50€ (I currently do not live in Germany) should please be taken over. The glass bottle I then take over again.
So feel free to comment on my review and let me know if you are interested in a bottling (the first 5 can then count themselves among the lucky ones). Of course you can also say your opinion about the content of my comment :)
Casamorati fragrances thereby reflect Xerjoff's collection of vintage perfumes, inspired by the ancient art of Italian perfumery. In 1888, Claudio Casamorati founded the C. Casamorati perfume factory in Bologna. During these years of production, Casamorati received numerous awards and valuable rewards from major national and international exhibitions. Around the middle of the 20th century, Casamorati had to close the factory due to a financial crisis and so XerJoff came on the scene. Sergio Momo, founder of Xerjoff, decided to bring Casamorati back to the glory days of the early century and unceremoniously took over Casamorati.
Such a background, very well wonderfully marketed, naturally arouses desire. Since the lottery here on Parfumo to "Italica" came just right. And, after I had never really won my life something of importance, I was allowed to count myself all at once among the lucky winners. Now "Italica" finally arrived with me and I would like to share my impressions with you (not only in writing). But first to the fragrance.
Fragrance
There are probably very few fragrances, which polarize similar to "Italica". On the Internet, it goes there from sky-high jubilant ("Gourmand his father. Exceptionally good") to food poisoning-like expressions ("I got sick", "triggers nausea with me").
Interesting here is that "Italica" was probably re-released as a "re-release" again, since he was apparently discontinued in the meantime. So he is also led on some Internet sites as "Italica 2021". Whether the fragrance was reformulated thereby, will probably remain a secret forever.
To take it right away - for me "Italica" is a beautiful fragrance, although no masterpiece. However, I can also understand why he seems to trigger a nausea in some. The fragrance is indeed on the borderline of oversweetness with an intense deep almond/marzipan note. For me, this tightrope walk is quite skillful and does not tip over in the process, but if you are a little oversensitized here, it can probably come to a nausea inducing association.
At the same time, I agree with all the comments that associate "Italica" with Italian pastries. Add to that a cappuccino or straight up amaretto and the Italy induced association in the mind is perfect. So seen the name fits naturally like the tomato sauce to the Spaghetti.
Overall, the fragrance also goes through only a minimal transformation and that only in the drydown. Then namely the sweet marzipan note is pushed a little more into the background and woods and musk make themselves wide. This does the fragrance quite well, as it takes away some of that pungent deep marzipan note. Saffron also contributes to the overall picture, although quite subdued, which suits me very well, because I do not like too strong saffron notes (too medicinal).
So the fragrance remains then also good and happy 8 hours on the skin and radiates quite neatly. For me, the fragrance is also unisex, he has but besides the sweetness also quite a deep, perhaps even tart marzipan note, which gives the fragrance even something dark or even oriental. Thus, he is of course mainly in autumn and winter to wear, but in times of Corona and home office, gladly also in midsummer alone in front of the computer.
The bottle is XerJoff according to all doubts and deserves the highest praise. By this dark magenta he is for me the most beautiful bottle of the already very beautiful Casamorati Flakonreihe.
So for whom is this fragrance now suitable? First and foremost, of course, for gourmand lovers. However, the fragrance is also to be enjoyed with caution. Who would like to play it safe and find in the XerJoff universe, should perhaps rather reach for "Lira" or try "Naxos", if it should be a little more noble. Nevertheless "Italica" has its right to exist, in my opinion it is artistically more valuable and therefore more interesting. For the masses probably rather nothing, but they reach anyway rather rarely to XerJoff. So if you like it a little more extravagant and are into gourmand fragrances, you should definitely give "Italica" a try. Speaking of...
I would like to express my gratitude to this great community and give away some of my luck. Therefore, I give away 5x5ml to the first five commenters on this review . Only the shipping of 3,50€ (I currently do not live in Germany) should please be taken over. The glass bottle I then take over again.
So feel free to comment on my review and let me know if you are interested in a bottling (the first 5 can then count themselves among the lucky ones). Of course you can also say your opinion about the content of my comment :)
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Isn't there something from Ratiopharm?
Preliminary - I bought this fragrance in the full knowledge that this is "Club de Nuit Intense WOMAN", so it was not an accidental purchase or even a mispurchase.
My motivation was rather based on the fact that CDNIW is a good clone of "Noir de Noir" by Tom Ford, and as such I would like to rate it. Armaf has yes in recent times some very good imitations, especially of Creed, brought to the market, especially "Club de Nuit Sillage" in the style of Silver Mountain Water.
After I had bought a bottling of "Noir de Noir" here in the souk some time ago, I just could not leave my nose from this fragrance. The whole thing went so far that I decided that a whole bottle had to her. However, there are no 30ml bottles of "Noir de Noir", as there are with other TFs. This was a bit too much for me, both in terms of price and quantity, since "Noir de Noir" is certainly not an everyday fragrance and 50ml would probably last forever. But - oh what luck - there's also what from Ratiopharm, uh Armaf.
So now I have a whole 105ml bottle in front of me, but at a fraction of the price TF calls up. Since both "Noir de Noir" and CDNIW have already been extensively described here, I would now like to go more into the direct comparison.
For me, by the way, both fragrances are really unisex, even if CDNIW is marketed as "Woman". Sweet enough for the female sex, dark enough for the men. Sure it's a rose scent, but this one is so beautifully wrapped in nutmeg and oud that this one comes across as very dark and almost mysterious. Therefore, my appeal to all men - profess your feminine side!
But now to the direct comparison. Sprayer "Noir de Noir" left, sprayer CDNIW right and off we go!
Scent
"Noir de Noir" starts powerfully with a clear, very dark rose. Saffron is also there from the beginning, which gives the fragrance a slightly more bitter, but also aromatic note. At the same time, it enlivens the rose and gives it a very elegant tone. Relatively quickly, the black truffle also enters the scene and combines with the oud, patchouli and vanilla, which then gives the fragrance its sweetness (which can be associated with cocoa), paired with the heavy, dark rose. Overall, I have to say that the scent progression is relatively linear and hardly goes through any transformation. However, this is not meant to sound pejorative in any way, on the contrary, the scent comes across as very classy, mysterious, and high quality right from the start. As already mentioned at the beginning, it is certainly not an everyday fragrance, but to go out, for upscale occasions, gladly also sensual, he is just about suitable in a perfect way.
9/10
"Club de Nuit Intense Woman" is a 95% clone for this. The biggest difference can still be made out in the top note, where CDNIW possibly a very little less present, possibly even something more portable comes across. But even here there is no real scent progression and the fragrance is in principle right at the beginning fully there. Now, if you want to frantically search for differences and put them into a few words, you could say CDNIW is less complex, maybe a little lighter and maybe doesn't quite reach that depth of the original. But maybe, just maybe, this is all imagination, because the brain says that a perfume for a tenth(!) of the price just HAS to be worse. The heart, however, feels what the nose conveys to it and this is a pleasantly warm, enveloping and at the same time uplifting sensation. The layman, just with a bit of distance, as most people will perceive this fragrance yes, will probably no difference between the two fragrances can perceive.
9/10
Durability & Sillage
"Noir de Noir" starts really powerful and can be really room-filling, especially at the beginning. There are certainly stronger fragrances, but anything beyond the current level, would also really be too much of a good thing for this fragrance. As described above, the fragrance is quite heavy, floral and dark, so that it can already seem a little oppressive, especially in the beginning, from therefore the projection should not and should not be stronger. The durability is also really very good and keeps on my skin pretty much exactly 10 hours, a great value.
Durability 10/10, Sillage 8/10
CDNIW, on the other hand, is a little more dignified, a little less powerful, a little less opulent. No question, is still really good to very good and the durability is with 8-9 hours still quite clearly in the upper midfield. But it is also a little weaker in the projection, which may even be an advantage if you want to wear the fragrance more as an everyday fragrance or even in the office. Where "Noir the Noir" could possibly even annoy the fellow men in the office, CDNIW also forms a beautiful fragrance cloud around you, but this does not radiate quite so far.
Here may also be the biggest difference, or justification for the higher price. While Armaf with its Creed clones regularly stomps the originals in the ground (with the poor performance of many Creed fragrances but also not difficult), the Tom Ford delivers here just a little better.
Durability 8/10, Sillage 7/10
Flacon
About the bottle there is not too much to say. The Tom Ford bottle is classically elegant and always reminds me a little of the simplicity of Japanese houses (I have 2 TF bottles by the way, TV and OW).
9/10
The CDNIW bottle comes there, of course, much more coarse and almost clumsy. Nevertheless, the bottle seems relatively high quality, as it has a fairly high weight. Also, the closure sits very securely and the color design in black and gold also fits quite well, even if I find the design of, for example, "Club de Nuit Sillage" with this reflection effect even prettier.
5/10
Price-performance
Here we come now to the real crux of the whole comparison. As much as the fragrances are similar, the pricing is different. Currently, the price of "Noir de Noir" is 220€ for 100ml. CDNIW can be had for just over 30€ for 105ml. Considering that both fragrances are almost identical, one may well ask how Tom Ford justifies this price difference. But everyone can answer this for themselves, since brand prestige, PR and certainly ingredients will play a role here. The better durability and sillage I had already mentioned.
Conclusion
Isn't there something from Ratiopharm? Yes, and specifically from Armaf. As already mentioned several times, both fragrances are very similar. While the H&S at the Tom Ford is not significantly, but still noticeably better, the (imagined) quality differences may possibly be due to a place effect (freely after the motto, the cost more, so he must also be better).
Who has the money to spare and would like to support Tom Ford (I'm always in favor of supporting the spiritual father), should add "Noir de Noir" to his collection. But who does not have the necessary little thing or who 50ml are basically too much (at the price), which finds in "Club de Nuit Intense Woman" a wonderful alternative, which can be worn absolutely also by men and should.
My motivation was rather based on the fact that CDNIW is a good clone of "Noir de Noir" by Tom Ford, and as such I would like to rate it. Armaf has yes in recent times some very good imitations, especially of Creed, brought to the market, especially "Club de Nuit Sillage" in the style of Silver Mountain Water.
After I had bought a bottling of "Noir de Noir" here in the souk some time ago, I just could not leave my nose from this fragrance. The whole thing went so far that I decided that a whole bottle had to her. However, there are no 30ml bottles of "Noir de Noir", as there are with other TFs. This was a bit too much for me, both in terms of price and quantity, since "Noir de Noir" is certainly not an everyday fragrance and 50ml would probably last forever. But - oh what luck - there's also what from Ratiopharm, uh Armaf.
So now I have a whole 105ml bottle in front of me, but at a fraction of the price TF calls up. Since both "Noir de Noir" and CDNIW have already been extensively described here, I would now like to go more into the direct comparison.
For me, by the way, both fragrances are really unisex, even if CDNIW is marketed as "Woman". Sweet enough for the female sex, dark enough for the men. Sure it's a rose scent, but this one is so beautifully wrapped in nutmeg and oud that this one comes across as very dark and almost mysterious. Therefore, my appeal to all men - profess your feminine side!
But now to the direct comparison. Sprayer "Noir de Noir" left, sprayer CDNIW right and off we go!
Scent
"Noir de Noir" starts powerfully with a clear, very dark rose. Saffron is also there from the beginning, which gives the fragrance a slightly more bitter, but also aromatic note. At the same time, it enlivens the rose and gives it a very elegant tone. Relatively quickly, the black truffle also enters the scene and combines with the oud, patchouli and vanilla, which then gives the fragrance its sweetness (which can be associated with cocoa), paired with the heavy, dark rose. Overall, I have to say that the scent progression is relatively linear and hardly goes through any transformation. However, this is not meant to sound pejorative in any way, on the contrary, the scent comes across as very classy, mysterious, and high quality right from the start. As already mentioned at the beginning, it is certainly not an everyday fragrance, but to go out, for upscale occasions, gladly also sensual, he is just about suitable in a perfect way.
9/10
"Club de Nuit Intense Woman" is a 95% clone for this. The biggest difference can still be made out in the top note, where CDNIW possibly a very little less present, possibly even something more portable comes across. But even here there is no real scent progression and the fragrance is in principle right at the beginning fully there. Now, if you want to frantically search for differences and put them into a few words, you could say CDNIW is less complex, maybe a little lighter and maybe doesn't quite reach that depth of the original. But maybe, just maybe, this is all imagination, because the brain says that a perfume for a tenth(!) of the price just HAS to be worse. The heart, however, feels what the nose conveys to it and this is a pleasantly warm, enveloping and at the same time uplifting sensation. The layman, just with a bit of distance, as most people will perceive this fragrance yes, will probably no difference between the two fragrances can perceive.
9/10
Durability & Sillage
"Noir de Noir" starts really powerful and can be really room-filling, especially at the beginning. There are certainly stronger fragrances, but anything beyond the current level, would also really be too much of a good thing for this fragrance. As described above, the fragrance is quite heavy, floral and dark, so that it can already seem a little oppressive, especially in the beginning, from therefore the projection should not and should not be stronger. The durability is also really very good and keeps on my skin pretty much exactly 10 hours, a great value.
Durability 10/10, Sillage 8/10
CDNIW, on the other hand, is a little more dignified, a little less powerful, a little less opulent. No question, is still really good to very good and the durability is with 8-9 hours still quite clearly in the upper midfield. But it is also a little weaker in the projection, which may even be an advantage if you want to wear the fragrance more as an everyday fragrance or even in the office. Where "Noir the Noir" could possibly even annoy the fellow men in the office, CDNIW also forms a beautiful fragrance cloud around you, but this does not radiate quite so far.
Here may also be the biggest difference, or justification for the higher price. While Armaf with its Creed clones regularly stomps the originals in the ground (with the poor performance of many Creed fragrances but also not difficult), the Tom Ford delivers here just a little better.
Durability 8/10, Sillage 7/10
Flacon
About the bottle there is not too much to say. The Tom Ford bottle is classically elegant and always reminds me a little of the simplicity of Japanese houses (I have 2 TF bottles by the way, TV and OW).
9/10
The CDNIW bottle comes there, of course, much more coarse and almost clumsy. Nevertheless, the bottle seems relatively high quality, as it has a fairly high weight. Also, the closure sits very securely and the color design in black and gold also fits quite well, even if I find the design of, for example, "Club de Nuit Sillage" with this reflection effect even prettier.
5/10
Price-performance
Here we come now to the real crux of the whole comparison. As much as the fragrances are similar, the pricing is different. Currently, the price of "Noir de Noir" is 220€ for 100ml. CDNIW can be had for just over 30€ for 105ml. Considering that both fragrances are almost identical, one may well ask how Tom Ford justifies this price difference. But everyone can answer this for themselves, since brand prestige, PR and certainly ingredients will play a role here. The better durability and sillage I had already mentioned.
Conclusion
Isn't there something from Ratiopharm? Yes, and specifically from Armaf. As already mentioned several times, both fragrances are very similar. While the H&S at the Tom Ford is not significantly, but still noticeably better, the (imagined) quality differences may possibly be due to a place effect (freely after the motto, the cost more, so he must also be better).
Who has the money to spare and would like to support Tom Ford (I'm always in favor of supporting the spiritual father), should add "Noir de Noir" to his collection. But who does not have the necessary little thing or who 50ml are basically too much (at the price), which finds in "Club de Nuit Intense Woman" a wonderful alternative, which can be worn absolutely also by men and should.
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