Splitter

Not number one, however, but the first perfume that I consciously bought as an adult. Back then, shortly before I stopped working at Lush and took back all the products I liked. Back then, I couldn't understand why people should use perfume. Sure, I knew Lush's compositions by heart, in addition to the big brands that were responsible for my aversion at the time. But in everyday life, my aim was to smell neutral, especially as I always smelled like Lush at work anyway.
Well. 25:43 became a discon in 2013 with the 'New Perfume Range'. My fragrance preferences at the time still had a lot of citrusy-green notes, so I had to take a bottle of this with me. Number one in my collection, so to speak. The fragrances of my early youth, all by Boss, because being Boss and all that, no longer existed and have no relevance for me.

But about 25:43: a wedding fragrance, according to the classification, which was composed in 25 minutes and 43 seconds in response to a challenge, so the story goes.
At the beginning, sweet citrus and fresh lemongrass dominate this fragrance, which quickly fills the room and then quickly, then linearly decreases, revealing more and more sweetness. No stinging. No edges. No surprises. Simply an invigorating, light green citrus fragrance with sweet notes and a tonka base. High-quality clean citrus meets cold dessert. Some would probably say 'perfect summer fragrance', I'm reliving my rather fulfilling, if exhausting and, from today's perspective, very underpaid time at Lush after eleven years. But today this one is no longer my taste in fragrances but definitely one of the nicer representatives of citrus fragrances.

I was really excited about this fragrance and wanted to experience nut fireworks. I took part in the sharing and was disappointed. Cried and put it away. But never stopped hoping. Now, almost two years later, I'm picking up the bottle again and once again I have the feeling that I enjoy bottlings less and use them less than a large bottle.
I still find the fragrance very quiet and the regular price a little excessive, but the disappointing character I felt two years ago has disappeared. But on to the fragrance.

With an overdose of around 50% compared to the usual number of sprays used and different expectations, it's time to try again. And there is the hazelnut in the cuddly fur on my arm. Soft, fluffy, fluffy, tender. Initially hazelnut liqueur, later creamy tenderness. No surprises and a great progression. Anyone expecting prancing paws that change direction frequently will be disappointed. I like linear fragrances because they are predictable. I would also find it strange if my shirt suddenly changed color during the course of the day. Artistically you can certainly argue, but I don't like it.
I prefer to enjoy the fluffy cloud of fragrance on my arm. It could certainly radiate better and stronger and both the resinous and woody notes could be more present, but that's fine with me and I think those who like special compositions in the woody and almost gourmand range but don't want to be perceived as absolute will find a cozy companion here.

Sorcinelli. Known for incense and sacred fashion. Whereby the perception of a massive number of massive incense fragrances is actually a misconception on my part, as I discovered on closer inspection. Of course, the UNUM series started with a par exellence incense fragrance, but the two successors Rosa Nigra and Opus 1144 already moved away from the intense resin aroma and towards soft nuances and it took until Quando Rapita in Estasi for the UNUM series to be provided with dominant incense again. Of course, Sorcinelli was able to come up with the Extrait de Musique range at the same time and, above all, experiment with the nuances of how incense can be presented, but somehow it is not the same.

The successor to Quando Rapita in Estasi in any case, and the ninth UNUM fragrance, is this one. Scusami. Or for my olfactory preferences, after the high of impact. After an absolutely exceptional fragrance comes this almost generic composition of sweet fruits, lovely flowers and soft woods. Linear and unspectacular progression. Initially a little more citrusy, later more airy. And if I didn't see the bottle and didn't know the person behind it, I would guess it was a fashion brand with a large-scale advertising campaign. Well, the somewhat old-school character in some facets of the fragrance might be a clue to a different origin, but I wouldn't be so sure in the end.

And although Scusami somehow belongs to the 'if you know one, you know them all' category, the creation has a right to exist in Sorcinelli's portfolio. And I say that despite the fact that I have my difficulties with HÆC DIES. But while it costs €300 and seems even more generic to me, Scusami is almost a lightweight at €180. It's an entry-level fragrance for this creative house, and a way to lighten up the very heavy and complex creations. At the same time, at an acceptable price for the - I'm going out on a limb - arbitrariness that the fragrance nonetheless has in my opinion.
Of course, the bottle, which is largely handmade, also costs money. The lid is cut to size, varnished, varnished again. The bottle is painted, scraped off again and painted once more. Everything is packed by hand because a machine could not do it to this degree.
In short: the bottle enchanted me, so I had to have it. The contents are a bit hit and miss. Not exactly what I like about Sorcinelli.
And so I hope for more resin smoke, wood smoke, incense resin, frankincense and similarly composed fragrances in the iconic bottle.

Today I wanted to be particularly brave and understand the hype. The hype surrounding the Marlys and this newcomer to the brand, whose flights of fancy I have been watching almost giddily. It's currently ranked 71st in the unisex perfume category and maybe that's a good thing, or maybe it's a warning sign.
So spray it on and off you go.
It becomes instantly sweet. Oppressively sweet in a way that I would describe as a sauna and steam bath. At the same time, I perceive far too many notes that seem like creams, serums, balms, deodorants and far too many other care products.
I am so happy when the sweetness recedes, the orange blossom comes in, an orange candy or similar pastry appears and makes it seem very much like a candy stand at the fair.
But well, maybe it will still be pleasant.

But oh well. It probably won't get that far, because the projection decreases so drastically that after a quarter of an hour, none of the opulence of the opening remains.
Sugary notes, some orange blossom and cozy wood remain close to the skin and somehow I'm glad that this fragrance, which I find quite exhaustingly sweet, doesn't fill the room.

I don't understand why this overly sweet fragrance is experiencing so much hype after all the other overly sweet fragrances of recent years (how many similar fragrances could you probably link here...). I don't have to. These compositions have their fans and I'm not one of them and just want to try them out and expand the cross-section.

Tasted several times. Two impressions.

My first test was sobering, sounding something like this:
Looking at the pyramid, I ask myself the big question: where are most of these notes? Where is the wine? Where the plum? Where the incense? The raisins? The resins? Civet? Myrrh?

There's a floral bouquet rolling towards me here, and it has a strange synthetic note with it. And without the latter, my brain screams memories of my time at Lush at me. I just can't figure out what brought on this blatant floral characteristic. Maybe who comes on it.


My second test with overdose (I dare now what) sounded then nine months later so:
The flowers remained and kept the upper hand for a long time. And was it now maturation or higher dose? Do not know.
The overall construct has at least now a slightly animal character, lets the flowers waxy and melt, envelops them billowing and pours wine. Hey, there he is.
What hits me a bit guilty pleasure like is an intrinsically consuming note that seems fruity and alcoholic. Exciting twist.
And most importantly, the undertone of this fragrance is wonderfully resinous. Not dry, but lively, at the same time, unfortunately, a little rubbery.

Then it becomes night in the desert, it glows, becomes spicier and the flowers become more silent. Find I good, could scarab and flowers anyway not quite understand.
I have fruit, see riches, glittering resins, gum. And everything is wrapped in a soothing light and shines delicately.

Then, apparently, the sun rises. It becomes floral sweet and the tart notes are gone. Jasmine and white rose appears to me, rubber has turned into bubble gum.
And despite eight sprays on my arm, the scent is quite quiet and skin deep, albeit long-lasting. What can you do...

I get a desire to sniff "Desert Suave - Eau Imaginaire | Liquides Imaginaires". Somehow it reminds me of it. Even if it's a completely different composition.