Splitter

Sorcinelli brings a new fragrance and the teaser for it is already screaming with attention again. I'm on the hypetrain and waiting for more info, notes, publication. Then comes as promised two weeks after announcement everything worth knowing concentrated. And the bottle looks gigantic again. Only the notes make me (Weih-)smoke lover, who was already somewhat stutzig to confused with the last fragrances, somewhat demoralized. First test, then weigh the bottle purchase. At least for the next two hours, then my order went out and the bottle itself a few days later on the way from Rome to West Hesse.

With anticipation, I packed up the box, looked at the box quite intensively from all sides, picked apart in carefully and took the scalpel to hand to cut open the label / seal. To reveal a picture already known from the teasers and behind it lies the ominous scissors with a small pendant with imprint Sorcinelli's signature and the name of the fragrance bedded on the velvet pouch of the bottle. This in turn is silver lacquered but quasi sealed by a wide strip of rubber, which just needs to be opened first with the scissors. Possibly you can also choose other methods but the scissors is already within reach.

Cover off and up with it!
Tension builds up. And very briefly summarized I can spoil: comes good, I like!

But slowly:

The start is citrusy. But not friendly, bright and squeaky, but creaky and screaming. Almost like a bow not wetted with rosin on the strings of a cello. Deep, serious, even minimally soapy. And I was afraid of lemons and lilies of the valley.

Then it becomes resinous, woody, silvery shine. The iris darkens powdery, the rose makes metallic, everything is surrounded by astringent spice. Although not strong or slaying but quite noticeable and fascinating.

Slowly but surely, all this weakens and we are left with a classic, warm mixture of sandalwood and amber. Always with a clear and resinous edge. Cutting and yet not painful. Bitter yet not too monotonous and off-putting. New and yet familiar.

All in all, an overall experience that is worthwhile. The scissors are now at the cut open bottle on the shelf and is examined. At least if someone is there and it is thus bright. Otherwise, my shelves are dark and munkeln.

Who wants to have times a very special flacon and in addition a wild composition, here you go.

Only in the projection I lack in Sorcinelli's works partly the power. Here too. But that is the only criticism of this work of art.

Dazzled by massive bottles with deer head, sweeping descriptions, promising notes, I was prepared for something big.
But when my sharing bottling arrived and I tried it, I was disillusioned.
Even later, when the brand was to be found locally, the compositions could not convince me so at all. Too well known. Too sweet. Too expensive.

Since then, a few months have gone into the country, I have found my filling again after rearranging and new perfume cabinet and wanted to try it again. Has something changed? No.

To me, this fragrance continues to be too sweet, I have no idea what the Wood has to look for in the name, the price actually shocks me and I am glad not to have a bottle.

But I would like to be a little more differentiated on Imperial Wood. Despite the fact that I see no wood there. Instead, the fragrance starts opulently with a lot of soft spices, warm notes of tobacco and resins that neither scratch nor smoke, a touch of flower and that's it. As the first glow fades, it becomes sweeter in the base and continues to be soft and spicy on top. Cinnamon, vanilla and tonka play with each other. Skillfully and yet I can not get away from the feeling of having smelled this mixture umpteen times and simply be repugnant to it. In addition, at the very bottom of the sweetness of the composition bumps a pungent synthetic note. And that then destroys everything for me.
The rest of the course is linear and without further surprises. That is also completely in order so. It does not need a change of direction to be well composed fragrance. But here I was disappointed.

As already mentioned: too sweet, too familiar, too expensive. Too bad.

Piqued my interest several times, never captured my heart. I was curious from the first announcement online. But the notes and comments couldn't get me. I wanted to find out for myself. Ordered a bottling and never dared. Went to the store and tried it on paper. Couldn't convince me. But I wanted this fragrance. With this beautiful theme and this artistic drawing.
Shortly before the blind purchase, I tried the dragonfly again.

The opening is off-putting. It has the same effect as the ubiquitous deodorant sprays that stick to women in particular and I regularly wish that I could smell the odor of sweat instead of this olfactory rape. Somewhere between synthetic lemon juice, sun cream and something indefinable. I look down at my arms in disgust as they emit this infernal agony, hoping that it will get better and imaginatively wiping the scent off all lists. A tear wants to form; I won't let it.

The nightmare fades and becomes more tangible, more bitterly citrusy and transparently aquatic greenish. There's a hint of cucumber salad in the air. I somehow wish the 2019 "Dodo (2019) | Zoologist" was back. Melancholy.
My thoughts are spinning. What is that? What does it do to me? And how the heck does it get to me?
Little wisps of deodorant spray keep coming into my nose and I want to cry. Everything else is just somehow.
Somehow green, somehow flowery, somehow light, somehow exhausting, somehow quite pleasant. But only somehow. And somehow also to get used to. Thanks to deodorant spray.

And in addition to deodorant, grapefruit and cucumber salad, sun cream also shines through. I get a slight Seahorse vibe but very lightly. The most pleasant part, although quite a disappointment, was still acceptable for me. Creamy rice, watery flowers, green-creamy something or other round off the experience. Yet the reinterpretation of Dragonfly in greener, more intensely watery and less creamy and citrusy notes could be so much more exciting and more zoologist. Impressively off-putting. "Hyrax | Zoologist" is downright enlightening in comparison.

So, ladies and gentlemen, I was spared what was probably the biggest disappointment of all my blind purchases.

Lily of the valley in fragrances, especially those of very popular brands, always make me skeptical. It comes across too quickly as a cheap cleaning agent. Here, this assessment was correct again.

New York is the theme and I think of skyscrapers, busy back alleys, crime scenes, Broadway shows, expensive housing, a whole lot of people, crowded tour buses and mass transit and so much more. And what do I get with this composition? The little kid standing in Central Park for a little while, lost in thought, blowing bubbles until the little can is empty. And I really mean that, because after less than an hour there's nothing left. Nothing at all. And apart from soapy notes in the form of aldehydes, lily of the valley and a few other white flowers, I didn't even notice them at a projection of less than five centimetres. A waxy woody note lingers a little longer, but only minutes pass before it is covered by the scent of the skin.

That's a bad joke at almost two euros per milliliter.
What does this have to do with New York?

Who knows me a little or takes a look at my collection, knows that aquatics do not suit me, mean nothing or do not appeal. Nevertheless, #Ocean Leather was in the Journey package, as the sample set at Memo is called. Straight from France, since I got it with #Jamals Palace.
I like Memo, I like their unconventional yet socially acceptable compositions. I like the bottles and their wonderful images. I like the endurance of sometimes over 10 hours, the complexity and often boundless elegance, even when things get a bit harsh.

And what used to scare me so much that I stopped liking perfume and fragrances altogether? Yep, that boring and same-old randomness of fragrances typically hawked in drugstores, as well as Douglas and other big houses. I realize that some:r is about to hate me here, but folks, always smelling kind of similar and finding the whole thing great because of a new advertising model has nothing to do with character, nor does it have anything to do with character. Yes, twice, because once related to the wearer:in, once related to the scents.
But that's just to my opinion on these 'bestsellers', which are fresh-aquatic and sweet-synthetic in particular.
But to the memo.


Is this still memo or can it go away?

I read once in a review under a Memo fragrance times of displeasure, that the Cuir Nomade series but only a constant exchange of some notes takes place and the base but always remains the same. That may be true with some compositions of the series or seem so. But if I had tried this fragrance here blind, on Memo I would certainly not have come and even if I had known that, I would not have thought of the said series.

Because what is Ocean Leather?
Unlike the others in the series I've sniffed so far, some of which I've added to my collection, this scent here is not grounded, down-to-earth and heavy, but airy, light and shallow. At the beginning I was really worried, because all the freshness notes came on so hardcore that it scared me.
Tangerine and dewy basil, light florals, and nothing distinctively harsh slapping me in the face. I'm speechless. Memo - for what I tried so far - not recognizing.
Instead, the fragrance makes one on typical shower gel alacrity from the perfume department. Only in very intense and very authentic. This all weakens with time and becomes gischtig (is that a word?) By clean sage and spicy nutmeg. In the meantime, I even briefly had the feeling that the scent had disappeared. Then he emerged but again.
What then remains closed to me, however, is the leather accord. Not only is he - if at all - definitely different, as in the other fragrances of the series - should this base then really always be the same - but for my sensation not present, respectively pretends through cedar and dignified roughness.
What is also not present, is the sillage, which already after one hour not much further than skin proximity goes out. And also otherwise goes the delicate ocean giant quite quickly out of breath.
What remains is a spicy aquate of high olfactory quality but without swell. The whale remains tame and shows itself reluctantly. Instead, what remains is a shallow day at the seaside. Too bad, I would have liked him.

Wonderful fragrance of the brand for all those who can not do anything with the more unconventional compositions or simply like aquatic fragrances. But nothing for those who like me, the character-strong and distinctive - possibly edgy - fragrances like and like to wear.
My boss once said 'someone once defined: so smells sea and since then there is this strange note that has nothing to do with sea' and described with it most aquatic fragrances and also how I feel them. Unfortunately with this one just no different