StellaDiverF

This review is based on Eau de Toilette concentration.

The initial blast of Mandragore contains a lot of bergamot, very refreshing and energetic. The citrus soon hides away as a supporting role and reveals a combination of anise, mint and ginger. It's green, fresh, reviving, zesty and sparkling. I was overwhelmed by this phase as this combination of spices which is usually thick, actually delivers such an unusually translucent scent.

However, this phase doesn't hold up very long and it soon was taken over by a spicy and earthy scent. The spices are still the same as above, but no longer freshly picked. They're dried and their ultimate spiciness are sublimed. Interestingly the fragrance remains ethereal even at this stage.

Unfortunately, Mandragore turns bland and watery afterwards, and loses its vivacity and strength. It was soft at the beginning and now it stays extremely close to skin. It dies after about 4 or 5 hours on me, which is weak among those I tried from Annick Goutal.

Mandragore, in contrary to the prune bottle and the mysterious name, is actually green to my nose. I appreciate the aromatic and spicy stages towards the beginning very much. However, these interesting stages doesn't last long (about 1 hour) and the fragrance itself either, which implies frequent reapplication to me. I'm curious if EDP would suit me better.

Nontheless, this should not hold you back from trying it. This green aromatic fragrance, lasting or not, has a very interesting twist that can hardly be described, but to be experienced by oneself.

I didn't get much lemon in Kenzo Homme Sport Extreme. The opening is more like peppery mint to me. The mint is present throughout the whole development, providing freshness and a subtle sweetness.

Afterwards KHSE swings between a generic lavander man aftershave, and a pleasant elemi scent embellished by a handful of saltiness on a woody base. Fortunately it approaches more and more to the later. However, it certainly would be much better if it could have sticked to the later.

The sillage is moderate and the longevity is pretty good on me. It's easily detectable after 10 hours. I don't find it particularly sporty as its name suggests. It's more of an aromatic woody everyday scent.

Paris EDT opens slightly sharp. It's ozonic, aldehydic and soapy. It then gradually morphs into a smooth powdery flower bouquet. Rose, hiacynth, violet, mimosa, lily of the valley, jasmine and other flowers interlock with one another. I can hardly pick either one out of the bouquet. It has a floral-type of sweetness, and it smells perfume-y. It doesn't smell unpleasantly synthetic, but it certainly doesn't aim to smell like real flowers. It's an artifice, cleverly structrued and well refined. Glamourous as it is, Paris EDT is surprisingly airy to my nose. I didn't find myself wearing a heavy velvet coat. Instead, it wears like a gauzy aura gently hovering around me. I doubt if the EDP has the same texture, though.

However, I do find that Paris is from an era other than our current one. Paris is like some timeless icons such as Audrey Hepburn : people admire their elegance and beauty but one does not necessarily wear exactly the same way as they do in their times. I admire and respect them as an inspiration. I'd occasionally treat myself with a few spritzes of Paris EDT to be embraced by its grace.

By the way, Paris EDT has a moderate sillage on me even with a few spritzes, but it lasts a good 12 hours and survives a shower.

Contrary to the sunset-like summery bottle, White Musk White Hot Summer is actually a subtle powdery fragrance. The opening has quite a lot alcohol, with a hit of bergamot and violet. However, it soon settles down to a powdery combination of orris root and heliotrope. The carnation offers some spiciness to uplift the flowers. At the late drydown, there is also a soft creamy woody smell.

The sillage is close along the 5 hours' wearing. Considering the powdery texture, I'd prefer wearing it in spring and autumn. A versatile fragrance at a reasonable price.

After the initial few seconds of citrus opening, Burberry Brit for Men turns out to be peppery and extremely woody on me. Spices mixes very well with the woody notes. The ginger here is quite dry.

This first hour projects well and is the most masculine phase to my nose. Afterwards, some floral aspects start to mellow the scent down and eventually turn it into a powdery scent described by previous reviews. However, it's not overtly feminine, and I can't really tell the rose. During the transition, at certain point, it smells quite soapy and alike to the aldehyde in Miroir des Secrets to my nose.

Towards the final phase after about 5 hours, Brit for Men stays very close to skin and becomes a comforting scent prominent of tonka beans and musk, though the woods are always detectable.

The longevity in total can reach 10 hours and the average sillage is relatively close. Elegant, understated and without being pretentious. A versatile fragrance with attitude. This might not be THE gem in one's wardrobe but a total functional one.