Sternanis

Sternanis

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Sternanis 3 years ago 8
5
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent
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It's the honey's fault.
Actually, I should love this fragrance - I like orange blossom and jasmine, patchouli, and I had nothing against honey in fragrances so far.
I've been sneaking around the ugly bling bottle in many stores for years, bought the La Rive dupe, and then hardly used that after all.

I remember one evening in particular when I wore LM on a test basis: I sprayed the fragrance on a cold, wet autumn afternoon, smelling brightly floral with a slight fruity note (with an orange like Amor Amor), and felt directly as if late summer was back again.
I almost bought it on the spur of the moment - good thing I didn't after all.

When I met up with friends a few hours later (back when it was legal) someone commented that I smelled good. That's when it suddenly hit me: the smell that's in the air, that's me! (Durability and sillage are therefore not bad)
It smelled like honey with a slight patchouli note. Where are my flowers!!! It doesn't smell bad, but I wanted floral and so the honey annoys me more and more as time goes on. A faint musk then also enhances the honey note and stretches its longevity for hours. With Elie Saab Le Parfum I notice the honey only when I really pay attention to it, here it is really in the foreground for a while.
But maybe that's just because I don't want to smell like honey right now. It's also kind of an exhausting scent.

At home, I consciously notice the scent again - and again, it's quite different. Dark woody-sweet patchouli, which seems very slightly amber, noble, autumnal, but also a little dusty. A slight hairspray musk note makes it seem inappropriate for an evening with jeans and beer (I'd prefer olfactory sweatpants right now, where's that asi scent everyone's writing about?!). Is my nose now numb to honey? Anyway. I found out that day that I don't like wearing the scent, at least from the heart note onwards. It's well made, smells absolutely not cheap, but the honey ruins it for me and the base is a bit too oppressive for me. That's not a criticism of the scent itself, it's just not what I'm looking for. Off the top of my head, I can think of several people it would go better with, and that's not a good sign.

It's probably more due to the bottle that the fragrance is so often perceived as chavvy and vulgar here. I find him rather classically ladylike, at the end even a little oldschool. In the drydown, it reminds me distantly of Laura Biagiotti's "Venezia". The I also like to smell, but to wear it is then but not "mine".

Who has a similar problem with the fragrance: Cash (La Rive) is less sticky. Unfortunately, me still too much, I can not "entriechen" it now. Once I have identified a disturbing note, it's probably over :(
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Sternanis 3 years ago 9 2
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
I must have him now...
It took me a few tries to get the scent - so not exactly what a "Wow!" usually expresses. So much for the name ;)
Otherwise I can't do much with Joop, off the top of my head I can only think of Le Bain, which I always thought was awful, and Homme Extreme, which my boyfriend thought was awful. So I usually walk right past the Joop corner. But something about the presentation made me want to try it, and at least I found the scent interesting enough that I didn't just check it off afterwards. The top notes and parts of the heart notes are a bit unusual and suggest a very different scent than it turns out to be later. So he has an exciting course ;)

But with time I got used to the "disturbing" somewhat squeaky raspberry note, and after about 20-30 minutes it combines nicely with the rose, instead of drowning it out. Up until here, I would have expected some pink raspberry rose candy (probably with vanilla and cashmeran as a base too, yawn). Instead, what emerges here is a sort of deep, dark red rose scent that I've very rarely sniffed in the drugstore to mainstream perfume chain sector ("Rosenrot" would also be such a candidate, but I find that one more oily, while "Wow!" is much more fruity). Well, with Moonlight Patchouli (contrary to the name also a rose fragrance) it can not compete in quality, but it is also more versatile, precisely because it lacks these high-quality scented powdery-elegant nuances.

I'd buy it more as a sweeter change from Aigner's Explosive - the heart and base have almost the same dark patchouli rose (someone once described it as metallic in Explosive, I'd half-sign that). In Explosive it's drier, here it's fruitier and softer. The patchouli isn't quite as earthy, which makes the scent much more pleasing to those around who aren't fans of cellar mustiness. The combination here is more quaffable than musty or gruff.
Explosive is, of course, much more complex (some would call it overloaded, the 80s say hello - oak moss! Aldehydes!!), but sometimes I like something more straightforward better, which isn't so taxing on the nose.

You could probably make the top notes a bit more harmonious, but I've learned to tune those out after a few years of perfume testing. I would even estimate that about 1/3 of my favorite fragrances have a rather unpleasant start. Conversely, however, there are many more fragrances that I like the head of, but then turn nasty, lackluster, or boring, and I find that much more annoying.

The durability I had to correct since my statement upwards: I have me in the drugstore, about the 5th time testing, Wow! "properly" sprayed on and 2 days later the same sweater again put on, this time I wore Encre Noire (yes, the men's fragrance, my nose feels that as gender-neutral). Another day later, the sweater still smelled like Encre Noire, but also smelled like the Patchouli Rose from Wow! (the blend is great too by the way, I'll probably layer the scents more often. And maybe I can so my friend to the "old closet" EN accustomed :P ).

The bottle is, to put it nicely, not that special. The color is nice and fits the fragrance, but in the drugstore I have chipped a fingernail on the extremely tight-fitting closure and otherwise it is just a glass jar with paper label, which already looks worn on the test bottle newly unpacked before my eyes. But at least he sprayed well.
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Sternanis 3 years ago 15 2
6
Bottle
7
Sillage
10
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Original adult coconut sandy scent without vanilla cookies
I don't usually like anything that's usually described as a "cozy" or "creamy" scent. Either there's a nasty stuffy musk in there, or tons of cashmeran, or it's too sweet, and all of it triggers an oppressive, constricting impression for me that I can't stand to have around my nose all the time. Some of these scents even hit me in the stomach.
The opposite of that is a fresh "pick-me-up" scent - which again has to have citrus, green stuff, or something else sharp or scratchy. Or be summery soapy-fruity.
Until now, I've only known coconut scents as one of those two categories; Crystal Noir doesn't fit into either.

I probably walked past it for a long time because I always had something about "creamy cuddly scent, coconut blah" in the back of my mind, so I checked that one off for myself. The trauma of a bus ride in the summer with four teenagers who generously fogged themselves with Victoria's Secret coconut body spray was probably still too deep. I certainly never needed a coconut perfume again!
Then I was looking for Bright Crystal Absolu a while ago (I liked Bright Crystal, but found it a bit lukewarm in winter and hoped for a stronger version), was once again not found (no tester far and wide, although the fragrance has been on the shelf for months), and sprayed me spontaneously and somewhat frustrated Crystal Noir EdP on one arm and Crystal Noir EdT on the other. I wasn't expecting anything special.

But already the top notes were completely different than expected. Green, berry, spicy and a bit scratchy. In a good way scratchy! The way bergamot sometimes seems scratchy, or that herbaceous note of blackcurrant that many find so nasty, but to my nose smells mostly refreshing. I also directly perceived the coconut, but could already guess that this is not a coconut macaroon fragrance.

A fresh fragrance it is but also not, in the next half hour, namely, a dark sandalwood tone asserted itself, which I usually do not particularly like, but which fits here really well to the coconut. Something cooling, almost coniferous or mentholartiges I would assign the cardamom.
The white flower blend wafting rather in the background.
Dull nutty coconut milk, dull detergent musk, and dull nutty sandalwood oddly make for a darkly clean, woody-nutty scent here that doesn't slay with sweetness and has relatively high recognition.
(Meanwhile, the EdT unfortunately smelled almost entirely like cashmeran, and that's where the similarity ends for me, too! The EdT is not a good substitute, unless you only want the top notes and then smell like fabric softener)
That's how the scent stays too, and for days (!). On my sweater he has easily held 3 days (the arm I have of course washed in the meantime :P).

The pyramid is strange - the smells but mainly coconut, why is not in here?
The fragrance is in a way cloudy-milky and has a certain density, but has nothing in common with sweet cream cocktails, while definitely rather fits into the winter (at most still on a cool early summer evening), but just with me no anxiety or nausea triggers. I haven't smelled anything remotely similar yet. I was a bit surprised, because the fragrance has been around since 2004, and otherwise designer fragrances copy each other all the time. Maybe it didn't fit into the then current fragrance fashion. But for it smells / roch one him just not on every corner, and I also do not fall as with some others from the time (Coco Mademoiselle, Alien) ten acquaintances who have made him the signature fragrance and wear for years daily.

I do not know yet whether it is enough for the wish list - so, I find him already good, and at the same time portable and special, but he also has such a "fragrance of use" touch, and triggers in me no great emotions.
2 Comments
Sternanis 4 years ago 14 7
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Rest in peace.
Anno 2009:
"Hello, Marketing Department here! Encre Noire is doing well, make one for the ladies!"
"What? Ideas are straight from..."
"Never mind, anything goes with roses!"

When I first asked for "Encre Noire" a felt eternity ago (OK, about 5 years ago), I was told, despite repeated assurances from my side that I really wanted to test the men's version, that this one is on. Or rather: I was attacked with it.
Everything from Lalique was deposited behind the counter inaccessible, and the saleswoman stubbornly refused to spray me with Encre Noire, because it "does not go on women's skin at all" and I "certainly don't want it and just mixed it up". In the course of the discussion, suddenly, without warning, a cloud of Encre Noire Pour Elle landed on my arm.

Well, it's actually not such a subterranean bad smell, but it's not even remotely similar to the original version I was looking forward to all the time, and character and style are completely different
EN is (needle)woody, but also earthy, smoky, and so extreme that it seems almost abstract. But only almost. Nathalie Lorson is responsible for some of my favourite scents and I think she has a recognizable style that runs through all scents. Amethyst and Sunlight Lumiere also have this certain amount of detail (but not too much), and a kind of symmetry/asymmetry.

EN pour elle is by Christine Nagel and smells to me like a pastel pink fabric softener with some rose soap (the one from Kattus has a certain similarity, the mild detergent from Domol even more). That's probably OK if you want rose fabric softener - otherwise I just find it meaningless. I would have preferred it to be repulsive, but interesting. Or at least characteristic in a certain direction, with recognition value. A certain sharpness or freshness would have been good for the fragrance in my opinion, this kind of fabric softener musk otherwise only seems flat or oppressive, and the rose itself is anything but angular.

No comparison at all to the men's fragrance - as if no one would have bothered more with the "Flanker" because it's bought anyway (otherwise it's usually the other way around, and I feel a little sorry for the gentlemen who are thrown the umpteenth boring "for men" or "pour homme" version with every new women's fragrance).
And that's actually what annoys me the most. Not that Lalique is launching the 10000000000th rose scent on the market, but that as a customer you are being taken for a fool. (of course you could go a long way to Black Opium and Poison Girl, but I'd rather not do that).
Besides, the original scent would easily go into unisex. Chanel's Sycomore, which is quite similar, is supposed to be for ladies after all.

If the fragrance had a different name and was marketed as a lovely rose scent in a tea service porcelain bottle (and in those old lacquered tin cans with the flower girls instead of in a box :P ), I might be able to find an access to it, albeit a completely different one (Gucci would probably have been able to do that). But that's how it is: sit, 6, theme missed.

Yeah yeah, I know, it's all been written 100 times, but not by everyone ;)

Every time I see it on someone in the collection, I am reminded of the experience in the shop and I get a little jerked up inside. In the wild, I probably wouldn't recognize him at all because he is so ordinary.
Later, since the two fragrances were also available in the village, I tested it a few more times to see if it still convinced me or if my memory was distorted somehow, but my nose never got further than "rose softener". I certainly don't smell more vetiver here. That's why I spare you all imaginary scent pyramids.

The text here was written in an original, rudimentary version over two years ago, and my impression has not changed.
By the way: There are some really well scented everyday products (as I learned here at Parfumo, there must be a lot of toilet stones among them), but this kind of rose scent is not one of them in my opinion. It's just sucked out, over.
Perhaps there are some rose fabric softener fans who find their favourite fragrance perfectly embodied in this very fragrance. I'd rather buy the Rose Deodorant from Fa instead

In fairness, at least nothing stinks here. Actually something should always stink after such an attack on my olfactory self-determination, but it doesn't. I can't hate the smell or find it disgusting, just boring. So I'm not surprised that it was discontinued, as it happens with most flankers after a few years.
7 Comments
Sternanis 4 years ago 8 2
5
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
7
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Yogi tea in matcha costume
It's green, it says tea on it - I have to buy it :D
With the Tesoris does not hurt yes in the onion leather, and so I dared last year for a long time again a few blind purchases, and after extensive testing I must also finally comment more extensively :P

The fragrance starts green and very fresh, almost minty, with a bit of citrus.
The tea note is soft rather than tart, and reminds me more of matcha ice cream than the drink. It is also not as floral and penetrating as Bvlgari or Arden.

After about 30 minutes, the scent becomes spicier (cinnamon/ginger/cardamom? I can't even unravel that), and the tea note becomes a bit more floral, the minty wears off - and after 1-2 hours, I definitely smell Yogi tea. The classic, in the brown package, but not with milk and sugar, but as I used to drink it: simply infused with water. (After someone has explained to me that there milk and sugar reingehört I tried it also times so, but that tasted me but too much like pudding.)
There are no sweet notes like vanilla or caramel, but with these spices you think the sweetness somehow to it, even if it is not really there.
An equally spicy cedar note joins in (not this flat, artificial paper cedar, but already really close to nature woody), and in the base is also something clean-fresh, but without soap notes - I would describe it as a (very slightly powdered) laundry scent with some coumarin and cashmeran.
This phase reminds me distantly of Armani She, but this kind of soft-woody accord is also found like this in many other women's, men's and unisex fragrances.

This is another one of those fragrances where I can't figure out the gender assignment. It is a cozy fragrance that actually goes on everyone, and I can not imagine that he bothers anyone.
The course scared me a little at the first test, but in the meantime I find the pretty round and fitting.
The durability is not so bad for such a fresh green-spicy something, and the sillage is environmentally friendly ;)
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