Stulle

- Without any introduction -

I perceive a kind of citricity in the top note; it is neither clearly citrus nor is any other fruit clearly recognizable. I would most likely attribute this high frequency to cardamom - I have just chewed a grain and I think it goes in this direction.
Nutmeg is rather subtle. In any case, dark and spicy lavender is the protagonist; it smells neither fresh nor herbaceous, and this may irritate a more classically oriented lavender fan. It is simply a slightly different version of this fragrance.

As so often, vetiver provides structure within the composition, and soft coumarin then steers towards fougère - you have to like that and I would say that the old-school barbershop comparisons are also due to this coumarin in combination with the somewhat unusual lavender.

I like that kind of thing, I'm getting a bit old for it, but I can also understand a certain discomfort in younger olfactory bulbs. Lavender was very often used as a soap or scented sachet to combat bedroom wardrobe mustiness and the nasty clothes moth!
I can't smell licorice, by the way, and I've just recently been chewing on a piece of licorice again. A little reminder for the older perfume@s among us: it's supposed to raise your blood pressure. So there's no harm in missing it ;)

The difference to the Eau de Toilette (which I really like) is surprisingly big. For me, the Elixir is something like a Sauvage with a lot of weight. Round, balanced and probably - riding the advertising wave - to be found under various Christmas trees this Christmas. Only five weeks to go - it's best to get your presents now, right?

Lavender soap with rosemary, clary sage green, quasi-citrus overtones.
As the fragrance progresses, it becomes somewhat smoky; not sacred, but more campfire-style.
And then a tiny honey note also emerges.
Much later, the (obviously dialed down) human note typical of oakmoss finally appears, and for me, that is simply the most beautiful thing about these old oakmosses!

I confess: I am definitely a friend of reformulation-related gutting of old bangers. Although the depth and richness of the old originals is always lost, it does make many a creaky camera wheel wearable today without denying its origins.

Of course, Paco Rabanne pH is not for twenty-year-olds on the prowl. But when life calms down a little, perhaps you have gained some focus and clarity - then you can try it out. And relax and enjoy.

For me, TF EXTREME is the spicy, unfruity version of TF MEN. Just as relaxed and elegant, but with a balsamic-woody scent. A hint of rum, a bit of vetiver. Not loud, but understated.
At the beginning, I detect a cardamom-like cistus, minimally flanked by saffron. I attribute the fruity note to the combination of these elements, as there is no smell of real fruit here. Perhaps a µ of fig, which I don't like very much, can be detected. In this homeopathic quantity, my disdain for it is quite limited.

The base note is incredibly cuddly, leathery and sanded, fir balsamic and still very lightly spicy. I even seem to catch a small, shy wisp of smoke. Everything here is so wonderfully softly blended and interwoven that it's a real pleasure!
It's a shame that TFE no longer exists - it was probably just not spectacular enough and the clientele punished it with contempt. He would have been my prey.

Why not a review?

That's what I asked myself when I looked at my much too long statement. Then, here's some information spiced up with a bit of opinion.

Aldehydic-soapy with bright citrus, juniper, tart camphor finely blended, floral accents, galbanum. Soft, tarry base, camphor & vetiver clearly, but very smooth and without sharpness. Aftershave vibes.

Surprise on textile: totally soapy and clean, the beautiful details remain largely hidden under the limey soap at first and then appear over the course of the hours.

For me, this is definitely the brand's most successful fragrance to date, also because it is more masculine than the slightly more pleasing other shades of gray, but without smelling old.
I'm also absolutely delighted that someone in 2023 has the courage to make such an allusion to the 70s - and that it hits the mark.

Top and almost timeless!

After the first tests, I had categorized the fragrance as an aquatic scent in the broadest sense, but PRIVATE NUMBER is a little different when worn for longer. Even two short puffs from the cuddly little bottle pack quite a punch! Please be careful when trying it out, right?

Lavender is clearly perceptible in a rather artificial fruitiness, although it is more sweet than herbaceous. I can't detect bergamot, slightly bitter galbanum only in very small doses. In my opinion, more green would have done PN a lot of good, but that may not have been Aigner's intention in 1992.
At least I can see a small (and well chlorinated) forest swimming pool in my mind's eye. What I think I recognize as clary sage takes up quite a bit of space in the middle, flanked by some rose - not necessarily the most natural - and a balsamic note. Yes, the latter could already be the fir (Ha! The swimming pool in the dark forest!), but very restrained (unfortunately) and also not in a masculine form (even more unfortunately).

The base tends to be ambery, pimped up with some soft musk compound and a clearly perceptible tonka bean. I can't detect oakmoss or cedar for the life of me. If you sniff the shirt again the next day, you will discover a creamy finish; synthetic sweetness does not necessarily shine with restraint.

My summary: fruity-ambratic, somewhat lavendery, a little green, strongly synthetic-sweet and quite special.
I can understand that some people don't like PRIVATE NUMBER and find it old fashioned. But it is often the fate of intense and eye-catching fragrances that they sometimes simply don't age well. A hero quickly becomes a fool.

The EdT will still smell good on the right wearer - if the dosage is right. For me, it is just at or below the wear limit of 6.5 points, depending on my mood on the day.