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Dark, Sultry Rose, Incense, And Juicy Black Currant, Distinguished by Ambrette & Musk Mallow
I've had T15 for well over a year now and am still smitten with it upon the first spray. That it has yet to be reviewed seems blasphemous, so, here goes. I purchased this some months after Taif Al Emarat's UAE, which is about as dark of a rose as one could possibly hope for. The description for T15 included Omani black rose and black currant, incense, patchouli, wooden notes, musk mallow, and ambrette. Having owned a few other fragrances from the brand, I knew the quality would be exceptional, although the scents themselves are somewhat derivative. That being said, I figured this would be like Portrait of a Lady, but it's quite different, actually.
The initial spray had me smiling and thinking wow. The black currant accord done here is so well done and blended with a dark rose, much darker than POAL, but not quite to UAE standards, that it creates a fascinating duality between lightness and dark in that the fruit is relatively bright, cheerful, and, as typically the case with TAE's other fragrances, is noticeable throughout the phases of the fragrance bit does a bit of shapeshifting as it enters the base notes, mellowing out. It's when you least expect it, those moments where you're moving around, that you'll catch whiffs of it still present.
It's here in the base notes where the fragrance really differs from others of its type, and, as noted concerning derivative works, here I cannot think of another fragrance quite like this. The fragrance's ambrette and musk mallow give it a unique feel I can't say I've experienced in nearly 25 years of this hobby. It's earthy, warm, somewhat dark, and makes me think of buckwheat pillows I've used before. The smell is earthy, musky, aromatic, and calming and acts almost like a pillow for the other notes to rest on.
Those familiar with, and like, Taif Al Emarat's UAE and T08 will surely enjoy this. I consider the three to be something of a "holy trinity" of dark rose fragrances, each different in their own way. In terms of light to dark, I'd put this at the lightest as it seems to be a bit more playful/youthful, followed by T08 and then UAE. All are exceptional fragrances and worth owning, imo, and the house continues to do an amazing job with reportedly all natural ingredients, substituting alcohol for sugar cane and water. Longevity is outstanding (I believe the % of essential oils used is 30% vs. 32% for the GCC Collection which UAE is from), and projection is very good for the first few hours.
Update: I noticed the notes on Taif Al Emarat's website completely changed, and believe this was done in error. At least as of April 15, 2023, the notes listed appear more in line with their latest release, T16, which I've tried. As much quality that goes into their product, packaging and bottles are far superior to that of stilted atomizers and twisting, leaking necks Boadicea the Victorious, their copywriting and website often leave something to be desired.
The initial spray had me smiling and thinking wow. The black currant accord done here is so well done and blended with a dark rose, much darker than POAL, but not quite to UAE standards, that it creates a fascinating duality between lightness and dark in that the fruit is relatively bright, cheerful, and, as typically the case with TAE's other fragrances, is noticeable throughout the phases of the fragrance bit does a bit of shapeshifting as it enters the base notes, mellowing out. It's when you least expect it, those moments where you're moving around, that you'll catch whiffs of it still present.
It's here in the base notes where the fragrance really differs from others of its type, and, as noted concerning derivative works, here I cannot think of another fragrance quite like this. The fragrance's ambrette and musk mallow give it a unique feel I can't say I've experienced in nearly 25 years of this hobby. It's earthy, warm, somewhat dark, and makes me think of buckwheat pillows I've used before. The smell is earthy, musky, aromatic, and calming and acts almost like a pillow for the other notes to rest on.
Those familiar with, and like, Taif Al Emarat's UAE and T08 will surely enjoy this. I consider the three to be something of a "holy trinity" of dark rose fragrances, each different in their own way. In terms of light to dark, I'd put this at the lightest as it seems to be a bit more playful/youthful, followed by T08 and then UAE. All are exceptional fragrances and worth owning, imo, and the house continues to do an amazing job with reportedly all natural ingredients, substituting alcohol for sugar cane and water. Longevity is outstanding (I believe the % of essential oils used is 30% vs. 32% for the GCC Collection which UAE is from), and projection is very good for the first few hours.
Update: I noticed the notes on Taif Al Emarat's website completely changed, and believe this was done in error. At least as of April 15, 2023, the notes listed appear more in line with their latest release, T16, which I've tried. As much quality that goes into their product, packaging and bottles are far superior to that of stilted atomizers and twisting, leaking necks Boadicea the Victorious, their copywriting and website often leave something to be desired.
Ojar Infusion Velours - the anti-Moon.
I had a 100ml bottle of Frederic Malle's The Moon, and while I enjoyed it quite a bit, I was very wary of wearing it around other people. Upon sampling it initially from a small vial, I wasn't quite sure as applying it on a concentrated spot, often the case with a non-spray sample, brought some negative comments from others. I found spraying it once I purchased a full bottle worked much better, opening it up and letting it evolve/blossom, BUT.... I never cared for the overly sweetness of it. It was too much, too soon, and it lingered for a while before delving into the mid notes.
Flash forward to Ojar infusion Velours. I'm calling it the anti-Moon in the sense that it has some of the same notes, but the blackberry and raspberry here are so well blended with the darker notes that it is, upon initial impression, easier to wear, if not perhaps more enjoyable to this nose. It doesn't necessarily smell like The Moon, either, which is a good thing, its overall approach is a bit less syrupy and perhaps a tad more light/ethereal, but make no mistake - this has a nice balance of both worlds, along with some zesty black pepper and cinnamon, which will probably draw people closer than repel.
It's a much smoother, appealing wear overall without giving one a toothache while providing just enough smokiness from the Frankincense to give it that "I only come out at night" vibe. It fits somewhere between The Moon and Gissah's Modern Heritage, which is a much fresher and a zestier blend of oud, raspberry, and spices, with all three of them outstanding in their own right. Though I haven't worn this one in public yet, Modern Heritage did result in a guy flagging me down in the local Walmart, telling me he was a fragrance collector and had to know what I was wearing, that it was the best thing he'd ever smelled. I have a feeling Infusion Velours may garner the same type of response.
As a side note, the bottle featured in the photo is the 15ml travel size, not the full bottle.
Flash forward to Ojar infusion Velours. I'm calling it the anti-Moon in the sense that it has some of the same notes, but the blackberry and raspberry here are so well blended with the darker notes that it is, upon initial impression, easier to wear, if not perhaps more enjoyable to this nose. It doesn't necessarily smell like The Moon, either, which is a good thing, its overall approach is a bit less syrupy and perhaps a tad more light/ethereal, but make no mistake - this has a nice balance of both worlds, along with some zesty black pepper and cinnamon, which will probably draw people closer than repel.
It's a much smoother, appealing wear overall without giving one a toothache while providing just enough smokiness from the Frankincense to give it that "I only come out at night" vibe. It fits somewhere between The Moon and Gissah's Modern Heritage, which is a much fresher and a zestier blend of oud, raspberry, and spices, with all three of them outstanding in their own right. Though I haven't worn this one in public yet, Modern Heritage did result in a guy flagging me down in the local Walmart, telling me he was a fragrance collector and had to know what I was wearing, that it was the best thing he'd ever smelled. I have a feeling Infusion Velours may garner the same type of response.
As a side note, the bottle featured in the photo is the 15ml travel size, not the full bottle.
What's that smell? Is that you? No, it's Amouage Sliver Oud: like a moth to the flame.
Oh Amouage. What have you done? First, there was Interlude Man. Then, there was Interlude Black Iris. Then, if those weren't enough, there was Interlude Man 53. And then there was what might be called, Interlude Sith Lord, er, Silver Oud.
Yes, this is very much like a trip to the dark side of the force. Imagine Darth Vadar, with his long, drawn out synthesized-sounding breaths cut short by the choke-force of a coughing fit. Yes, it's a tad bit smokey and goes on pretty intense, kind of like Anakin screaming at Obi Wan while crawling out of the lava. Ok, ok... enough Star Wars imagery.
If you haven't already seen Sebastian's review on his YouTube channel Looking, Smelling, er, wait. He literally just changed the name of the channel while I was typing this. The Perfume Guy is its new name. Well, how about that for a news flash? Anyway, if you've seen his review, I concur with a good majority of what he said: this is like sucking a good deal of the sweetness and green notes out of Interlude Man and leaving you with something a bit more... I don't know, daring? Certainly it's that.
Now, it does get some sweetness after a while, but it really kind of depends, like many scents of this type, where you're smelling it from. This is something that may smell nicely wafting in the air around you like typical (real) Oud-based fragrances do. Put your nose right up to it and you'll most likely get something different. Except here, it's pretty intense and, well, addictive. Not to mention, mysterious.
Mysterious is part of the marketing of this scent, but to my nose, and one other reviewer's on another website, a big portion of that mystery may be coming from an ingredient missing on the official notes. I say that because, like the other reviewer, I'm getting something that's like a dark, smoldering berry note in here. Whether it's raspberry or something else, I cannot tell. But it's there, floating in and out amongst the dark patchouli and other notes and it's very addictive. It's not gourmand by any means, but it's like how patchouli can have a dark chocolate vibe, then this dark, sweet note of raspberry or something, along with the smoke... it's, well, mysterious! I'm certain other perceptions will vary, nevertheless.
Longevity is top notch. Sillage is good, but hard for me to comment on as I haven't moved around much today. Over the course of its development, the vanilla comes into play but it's never really in the foreground. At first, initial spray, you get the sense that you might want to wait about 10 minutes or so before going anywhere as it's a bit challenging, but after a while it's got that Interlude's darker, broodier brother thing going on with a hint of sweetness to it.
I'll admit, at first, I thought... Mmmm, I don't know if I like this as much as Interlude, but after a second wearing, it's really growing on me and just goes into a different direction. It very well could be the scent for those who dislike the oregano note in Interlude. Or those who don't mind playing with the dark side of the force. Big thumbs up!
Yes, this is very much like a trip to the dark side of the force. Imagine Darth Vadar, with his long, drawn out synthesized-sounding breaths cut short by the choke-force of a coughing fit. Yes, it's a tad bit smokey and goes on pretty intense, kind of like Anakin screaming at Obi Wan while crawling out of the lava. Ok, ok... enough Star Wars imagery.
If you haven't already seen Sebastian's review on his YouTube channel Looking, Smelling, er, wait. He literally just changed the name of the channel while I was typing this. The Perfume Guy is its new name. Well, how about that for a news flash? Anyway, if you've seen his review, I concur with a good majority of what he said: this is like sucking a good deal of the sweetness and green notes out of Interlude Man and leaving you with something a bit more... I don't know, daring? Certainly it's that.
Now, it does get some sweetness after a while, but it really kind of depends, like many scents of this type, where you're smelling it from. This is something that may smell nicely wafting in the air around you like typical (real) Oud-based fragrances do. Put your nose right up to it and you'll most likely get something different. Except here, it's pretty intense and, well, addictive. Not to mention, mysterious.
Mysterious is part of the marketing of this scent, but to my nose, and one other reviewer's on another website, a big portion of that mystery may be coming from an ingredient missing on the official notes. I say that because, like the other reviewer, I'm getting something that's like a dark, smoldering berry note in here. Whether it's raspberry or something else, I cannot tell. But it's there, floating in and out amongst the dark patchouli and other notes and it's very addictive. It's not gourmand by any means, but it's like how patchouli can have a dark chocolate vibe, then this dark, sweet note of raspberry or something, along with the smoke... it's, well, mysterious! I'm certain other perceptions will vary, nevertheless.
Longevity is top notch. Sillage is good, but hard for me to comment on as I haven't moved around much today. Over the course of its development, the vanilla comes into play but it's never really in the foreground. At first, initial spray, you get the sense that you might want to wait about 10 minutes or so before going anywhere as it's a bit challenging, but after a while it's got that Interlude's darker, broodier brother thing going on with a hint of sweetness to it.
I'll admit, at first, I thought... Mmmm, I don't know if I like this as much as Interlude, but after a second wearing, it's really growing on me and just goes into a different direction. It very well could be the scent for those who dislike the oregano note in Interlude. Or those who don't mind playing with the dark side of the force. Big thumbs up!
Very classy, well done fresh-spicy amber-woody scent.
I first came across this house and fragrance early in 2021 when I received a sample with a purchase from the Middle East. Having never heard of the house before, I did some searching but found little information other than its based in Kuwait and this is part of their luxury line.
Upon trying Modern Heritage, it was instant love. It had some facets that were reminiscent of Frederick Malle's The Moon but wasn't quite as dense or heavy as that scent. In particular, the zesty black pepper combined with the raspberry note gives it perhaps a more balanced opening vs The Moon, whereas that particular fragrance can lean syrupy sweet at times with the inclusion of lychee.
There's also the use of geranium in Modern Heritage which, as many might know, can give a bit of a rose-ish note with some minty freshness. Of course, there's some oud here as in the Moon as well, but let's be clear: while this is in the same vein as the Malle offering, it is its own fragrance and is a much easier one to wear at that. As much as I love The Moon, it's got a spot for those rare and special occasions where this is much more versatile and, therefore, easier to reach for.
As for presentation, the packaging is first rate with a magnetic box (though faux wood) with a black velvety interior. The bottle is heavy and artfully done and the cap is magnetic. The fragrance itself appears to be 77% alcohol by volume and strikes a good balance between longevity and projection (where oftentimes higher concentrated essential oils wear closer to the skin.) I believe this is marketed as an eau de parfum and fits accordingly into the category, projecting nicely off the skin and giving a nice sillage.
All-in-all, this absolutely wonderful fragrance deserves more attention than it's getting. I have tried one other from the house, Odyssey, and found it to be another high-quality scent but perhaps not as attention-grabbing as this one. Nevertheless, Modern Heritage is certainly worth seeking out a sample for.
Upon trying Modern Heritage, it was instant love. It had some facets that were reminiscent of Frederick Malle's The Moon but wasn't quite as dense or heavy as that scent. In particular, the zesty black pepper combined with the raspberry note gives it perhaps a more balanced opening vs The Moon, whereas that particular fragrance can lean syrupy sweet at times with the inclusion of lychee.
There's also the use of geranium in Modern Heritage which, as many might know, can give a bit of a rose-ish note with some minty freshness. Of course, there's some oud here as in the Moon as well, but let's be clear: while this is in the same vein as the Malle offering, it is its own fragrance and is a much easier one to wear at that. As much as I love The Moon, it's got a spot for those rare and special occasions where this is much more versatile and, therefore, easier to reach for.
As for presentation, the packaging is first rate with a magnetic box (though faux wood) with a black velvety interior. The bottle is heavy and artfully done and the cap is magnetic. The fragrance itself appears to be 77% alcohol by volume and strikes a good balance between longevity and projection (where oftentimes higher concentrated essential oils wear closer to the skin.) I believe this is marketed as an eau de parfum and fits accordingly into the category, projecting nicely off the skin and giving a nice sillage.
All-in-all, this absolutely wonderful fragrance deserves more attention than it's getting. I have tried one other from the house, Odyssey, and found it to be another high-quality scent but perhaps not as attention-grabbing as this one. Nevertheless, Modern Heritage is certainly worth seeking out a sample for.
Smooth, top notch blend (mukhallat) of ouds and amber
Arabian Oud puts out some really nice, top-notch oud scents. Royal Oud, Blue Oud, and the hard-to-find Aqua Royal Oud are three that I have, all of which feature Oud(s) blended with musk. Aqua Royal Oud isn't quite the same level of extravagance as Royal Oud, replacing the late-blooming rose note in the latter with what smells like real ambergris.
Enter Mukhallat Dewan Al Sharq, aka Dewan (or even Diwan on the USA website) Al Sharq (or Shark), removing the musk altogether in favor of amber. This appears to be a repacking of the same scent found several years ago in a very different bottle, which, if true, shows Arabian Oud's progressive packaging taking shape around 2010 onward (when perhaps when Kalemat was released in its "Book" fashion). The bottle here is not quite as minimalistic as its original version, but with its body-wrapped engraved leather, somewhat reminiscent of Aqua Royal Oud and nowhere near as extravagant as more recent releases (Al Fareed, for example.) It's worth mentioning this because one can only assume that the repackaging effort was done to attract a more deserving, wider audience. However, it's what's inside that really counts - and trust me, this fragrance needs no gimmick to sell itself.
The first thing of note upon spraying is how incredibly smooth the fragrance is. It doesn't have barnyard or cheesy accord; rather, it's almost velvety in texture with a backbone of shapeshifting woods resting on a golden aura of amber. It's almost creamy to an extent, somewhat thick, but never heavy or oppressive.
The official notes appear to be dependent on which website one is viewing. The official Arabian Oud website(s) lists top notes of Seyoufi oud oil (meaning high quality), mid-note of Cambodian Oud oil, and base notes of Indian Oud oil and amber. Other websites list a note of Borneo Oud somewhere in the mix. At any rate, they're masterfully blended so that they show different facets at different times during different climates (or where you even spray them.) As an update, as of 2023, the official USA website lists rose in there as well, but I don't smell any.
There are moments when the scent seems to morph into a spicy freshness that echoes my experience with Cambodian Oud in other fragrances, and other times there is an underlying fruitiness. Other times, the scent seems to feel a bit darker. Its longevity, on my skin, is very good - we're talking 12+ hours, which allows for gradual, subtle changes - though there are times when it seems like it's changed very little. It's fascinating in this context because it really does appear to be dependent on where it's sprayed, how it's sprayed (closer to or further away from the skin), as well as the climate. Catching whiffs of a decent but not overpowering sillage reveals its complexity and nuances.
Compared to the other oud-based fragrances mentioned above, this is easily #2 behind Royal Oud, which just feels to be on an entirely different level than the others (perhaps justifying its astronomical price), but make no mistake, it's not that far behind as I do find myself more partial to the amber used vs. musk.
Overall, this is a very easy to wear Oud blend with amber that may prove to be fairly versatile in warmer weather as well. It's not cheap, by any means; the normal price on the official website, the only place I could find it, is $425 U.S., but Arabian Oud's occasional sales with a 40% discount make it much easier on the wallet. That being said, comparatively speaking, at that price it's well worth it vs. designer prices with "Oud" in the name only for 1/2 the price. Big thumbs up!
Enter Mukhallat Dewan Al Sharq, aka Dewan (or even Diwan on the USA website) Al Sharq (or Shark), removing the musk altogether in favor of amber. This appears to be a repacking of the same scent found several years ago in a very different bottle, which, if true, shows Arabian Oud's progressive packaging taking shape around 2010 onward (when perhaps when Kalemat was released in its "Book" fashion). The bottle here is not quite as minimalistic as its original version, but with its body-wrapped engraved leather, somewhat reminiscent of Aqua Royal Oud and nowhere near as extravagant as more recent releases (Al Fareed, for example.) It's worth mentioning this because one can only assume that the repackaging effort was done to attract a more deserving, wider audience. However, it's what's inside that really counts - and trust me, this fragrance needs no gimmick to sell itself.
The first thing of note upon spraying is how incredibly smooth the fragrance is. It doesn't have barnyard or cheesy accord; rather, it's almost velvety in texture with a backbone of shapeshifting woods resting on a golden aura of amber. It's almost creamy to an extent, somewhat thick, but never heavy or oppressive.
The official notes appear to be dependent on which website one is viewing. The official Arabian Oud website(s) lists top notes of Seyoufi oud oil (meaning high quality), mid-note of Cambodian Oud oil, and base notes of Indian Oud oil and amber. Other websites list a note of Borneo Oud somewhere in the mix. At any rate, they're masterfully blended so that they show different facets at different times during different climates (or where you even spray them.) As an update, as of 2023, the official USA website lists rose in there as well, but I don't smell any.
There are moments when the scent seems to morph into a spicy freshness that echoes my experience with Cambodian Oud in other fragrances, and other times there is an underlying fruitiness. Other times, the scent seems to feel a bit darker. Its longevity, on my skin, is very good - we're talking 12+ hours, which allows for gradual, subtle changes - though there are times when it seems like it's changed very little. It's fascinating in this context because it really does appear to be dependent on where it's sprayed, how it's sprayed (closer to or further away from the skin), as well as the climate. Catching whiffs of a decent but not overpowering sillage reveals its complexity and nuances.
Compared to the other oud-based fragrances mentioned above, this is easily #2 behind Royal Oud, which just feels to be on an entirely different level than the others (perhaps justifying its astronomical price), but make no mistake, it's not that far behind as I do find myself more partial to the amber used vs. musk.
Overall, this is a very easy to wear Oud blend with amber that may prove to be fairly versatile in warmer weather as well. It's not cheap, by any means; the normal price on the official website, the only place I could find it, is $425 U.S., but Arabian Oud's occasional sales with a 40% discount make it much easier on the wallet. That being said, comparatively speaking, at that price it's well worth it vs. designer prices with "Oud" in the name only for 1/2 the price. Big thumbs up!
