UntermWert

UntermWert

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UntermWert 7 months ago 28 36
9.5
Scent
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Memory of a 104 year old
Angelo describes this fragrance as a tribute to his grandmother, her kindness and her love for chypre fragrances. And with this, he has truly memorialized her: a fragrance image full of affection. With my eyes closed, I smell the flowers in grandmother's embrace. The light as it shines through the curtains of her living room window. I am part of the scented picture in which the child bundles her memories, filled with security.

The fragrance reminds me in its deep emotionality of Après l'Ondée without the violet and actually quite different... but melancholic, in loving memory, absolutely wearable, although Angelo describes it as a work of perfume art, not a perfume. The perfumer has created here a memory of his grandmother Angeliki, who lived to be 104 years old. And every year on the anniversary of her death, a batch of 104 bottles is to be released - what a wonderful gesture, with which the memory is always updated and the love for this person lives on forever. There is simply nothing more to say about this, except to bow in humility before his generosity, to be allowed to participate olfactorically in this private experience, to let oneself drift and enjoy the beauty of the fragrance.
And yet it is absolutely wearable, has classical borrowings, with unspeakable depth and smells simply beautiful, floral and inviting. The myriad of fragrance notes are complex and at the same time very harmoniously interwoven, carried by aldehydes and friendly animalics. It's hard for me to smell them out individually, though I think I'm most likely to detect lilac and freesia and the comfort of well-woven resins and beeswax - the mood is very loving and beautiful.

I wore it in the evening, and the next morning I can still clearly smell garden carnation on my shirt alongside floral memories on a subtle skin note.
To my good fortune, I note, because the carnation can be too much for me already times, and so it saves me from throwing my good intentions overboard and chasing after this rare piece...

(with all dearest thanks to Gandix for the opportunity to get to know this noble and special fragrance)
36 Comments
UntermWert 7 months ago 18 27
7
Sillage
9
Scent
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Spring awakening in the Orient
The sun is still low over the rooftops, the cold of the desert night has not yet disappeared.
A ray of light falls on a wash set on the bedside table, the aromas of sandalwood soap and a bouquet of flowers dance on a light breeze and fill the room with clear purity.

Narjis opens on a citrusy-tart note, with angelica forming an exciting counterpoint to orange and bergamot, like a delicate, transparent curtain through which a bouquet of flowers shimmers in a fine light. I imagine a few morning rays of sunshine in a bedchamber from the Arabian Nights. No heavy curtains, spices or fruit, but a mysterious, slightly soapy-floral scent, rather cool. The narcissus takes over the sceptre in a very exciting way, with ylang and osmanthus forming the frame. I attribute the soapy impression to musk and sandalwood, iris and vetiver then form a beautiful contrast in the base, which keeps the fragrance moving and prevents it from slipping into fluffiness. The citrusy impression also remains. But the star of the fragrance is the narcissus. I like it very much.
An unusual, beautiful fragrance that plays with contrasts, sometimes like a breath of fresh air, sometimes very subtly floral-powdery, but always a little tart, not too pleasing. Definitely not an "all-time favorite", but one that you have to get involved with.
Exciting.
I'm going to try this and Narcissus again in the spring.

Addendum: when I wear it "properly", I'll revise the rating upwards to 9... and would like to have it... I have to say it now, I think I smell extraordinarily good with it.

(with many thanks to Susan)
27 Comments
UntermWert 2 years ago 25 19
8
Scent
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smoky echo after party in tiger cave
After meeting in the hippie store for a glass of absinthe, things got a bit out of hand. A battlefield of incense sticks torched in a bet, intoxicatingly excessive togetherness, probably dancing to the Doors. Alternating time-lapse and slow-motion, colorful reflections of the disco ball sometimes dazzling. In between, there had also been a tiger. He lounged next to the belly dancer on an oriental carpet and lasciviously sharpened his claws. At some point, everyone wanted to scrub the tiger together and fill a tub with floral foam. Of it the skin has become then also cuddly soft.... and then they had a great time snoozing in the cuddly amber cushions. The next morning light spice dusts in the nose remind of the wild night.
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Tiger's Nest opens with a bulky, scratchy absinthe incense upbeat, which, reinforced by the aldehydes, creates the impression of wildly exploding incense sticks. Not gentle and relaxing, but alert, wild and hallucinogenic. Along with the saffron, there is also something animalic in the scratchiness - untamed, a bit like rough fur. As it progresses, there is an almost soapy impression, probably due to the animalic florals wrestling wildly with the incense. Here, fortunately, the rose does not push itself into the foreground with me, but it lets the fur seem a bit cleaner in the interplay with osmanthus and YlangYlang.
The incense-soap impression then lasts for quite a while, until the softer notes join almost placating and appease the tiger. At some point the scent quiets down a bit, amber, vanilla and tolu balsam take over, it becomes spicy-balsamic, not too sweet. Dry later (papyrus). Peaceful.

Tiger's Nest I find quite appropriate as a name for the fragrance. In the tiger's den was neatly celebrated and rolled, all overgrown by indolic flowers. Exciting. Intensive. I like it very much. Whether he moves in with me, I do not know yet. He makes with me already neat Radau.

(love thanks to Susan for the test possibility)
19 Comments
UntermWert 3 years ago 28 27
7
Bottle
8
Longevity
9
Scent
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the beauty of the moment when perfection ends
Just now in autumn you can observe it again: the end of juicy-radiant nature - green, full, saturated - suddenly just before over. And then.... then there is a short phase, sometimes moments, when everything shines in dazzling colors and shapes and flavors, just before it collapses. Fruits are ripening, summer blossoms are stretching towards the last rays of summer sun, everything is craving and longing for life-giving light just before decay. Blossoms are wide open - tomorrow their leaves will be crumpled and fall, fruit not harvested today will become wormy and ferment.
Precipice captures this moment. Juiciest rays on the verge of tipping. A peak of late summer or the beginning of autumn, adult beauty just before aging, life in all its colors before it retreats into winter, leaving space to gentle contemplation, deceleration and silence. The fragrance is not loud. Rather, it's a border crosser between sumptuous joie de vivre and looming transience. There are animalic florals (all of which I can't tell apart, but which give me a scent impression of almost overripe fruit), resinous hints and a latent earthy note in the background. Precipice is complex yet familiar. Life transitions we all know, and in this fragrance I find the beauty of the moment when perfection ends. A gem. Beautiful. Will be discovered.
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about Anandas fragrances, the label and the philosophy has already been reported in detail. M.E. always worth a fragrance journey.
... a bit like the adult version of Sticky Fingers..
27 Comments
UntermWert 3 years ago 20 17
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
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Rock'n Roll Elf Scent
Vivacious opens with a dive into freshly cut green hay.
You can literally hear them giggling, the wild little elves and the goblins.
Make a mess of everything and you only notice them out of the corner of your eye.
Evening sun beams through the boards of the wooden hutch, bathing everything in magical warm golden light, in which the dust motes dance, stirred up by the happy little magical creatures playing frolicsomely and throwing little flowers at each other.

Soundtrack to this high-spirited frolic is the old Queen song...
... Fairy dandy tickling the fancy of his lady friend....
Wild and boisterous, joyous, magical and, above all, naughty!
I can literally see them chasing through the meadows, singing, dancing in a roundelay, tussling, making mischief, and then plopping down in the hay in the old barn, tickled and giggling.
Wrapped in a soft, lumpy amber snuggle blanket, they eventually come to rest with happy smiles.

The fragrance exudes this joie de vivre. And although I have with the complexity of clove so my issue and violet fragrances actually want to find boring, I can not help but be drawn into the confetti-joyful rush. The combination of the bergamot with the florals and the soft amber base takes away the tuffy powderiness of the violet, and the violet disarms the clove and its quibbles.

What a quere fellow.
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Hiram Green's Vivacious actually refers to the Victorians' love of violets, jazzed up into a cheerful 21st-century good-time scent.
I've got sassy fairies and perky pixies twirling exuberantly to The Fairy Feller's Masterstroke. Times a different fairy scent, only very discreetly powdery, rather rock'n roll. I like very much.

(with dear thanks to Violett)
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