WRoth's Perfume Reviews
This fragrance starts with a bitter green note surrounded by a sweet woodsy note similar to liquorice. The result is like thick herbal liquor – unfortunately I do not like what I see. The green accord is on one hand too cloying and on the other hand to bitter. The whole composition seems unbalanced – the galbanum note at the heart of all is utterly unlikeable. I scrubbed this scent so I cannot say how long it lasts.
This fragrance starts with an accord made of vanilla and ylang ylang. Reminiscent of Vanilla Galante, this fragrance is sweeter and heavier than the Hermessence. The two notes, spice and floral, are well-blended and harmonise perfectly. Underneath the two note I detect a trace of amber which gives the fragrance depth and a slight saltiness which boosts by contrast the vanilla note. As the fragrance progresses, it sheds most of the vanilla note and all there remains is ylang ylang framed by amber and a touch of vanilla. Now a true floral, the fragrance is soft and feminine, perfect to wear on a spring or early autumn evening. As the fragrance dries down, it gets fuller and softer, the floral note slowly fades and amber and sandalwood characterise this last stage. Lasts for hours on my skin.
Hermessence Vanille Galante
This fragrance opens with the exotic note of ylang ylang framed by indistinct green notes and a dash of spices. The head accord smells of water, green stems and flowers, it is salty and vanillic at the same time. As the fragrance progresses, the flower and vanilla notes dominate the accord, creating in my mind the idea of a large Vanilla orchid patch in various stages of bloom. The fragrance is elegant, exotic and feminine. It is perfect for spring and cool summer evening. Lasts for roughly 5 hours on my skin.
This fragrance opens with an unusual vanilla note. Dry and not sweet at all, its delicate aroma is immediately transformed by an incense accord into something resembling the essential oil vapors found in a Turkish steam bath. I appreciate the idea of the accord: a non-sweet, light vanilla paired with smokey and salty notes of woodsy nature, but to my nose the end result is not nice. Eventually the accord settles into something more pleasant: a cured sheer vanilla which I admit could be an excellent base for layering. This scent has tremendous tenacity: it lasts more than 8 hours on my skin.
Opens with a bitter gardenia accord dominated by green and mushroom-like nuances. The creamy/fruity sweetness I like so much in Chanel's Gardenia and Une Voix Noire seems not to be present in this fragrance. Only when the top notes are gone I start to see it, rising gradually from the background of the composition. Velvet Gardenia is a more realistic gardenia rendition than the Chanel Exclusif, but more realistic does not necessarily mean better. I understand if some people find this fragrance challenging to like or wear. However, I appreciate the artistry and elegance of the composition and give it 7 out of 10 possible points.