WRoth

Opens with a bitter gardenia accord dominated by green and mushroom-like nuances. The creamy/fruity sweetness I like so much in Chanel's Gardenia and Une Voix Noire seems not to be present in this fragrance. Only when the top notes are gone I start to see it, rising gradually from the background of the composition. Velvet Gardenia is a more realistic gardenia rendition than the Chanel Exclusif, but more realistic does not necessarily mean better. I understand if some people find this fragrance challenging to like or wear. However, I appreciate the artistry and elegance of the composition and give it 7 out of 10 possible points.

This fragrance opens with green yet powdery violet. The unique green freshness is almost melon-like and vaguely reminds me of Fleur de Liane. Violet’s powdery floral smell is often plasticine-like and I detect a faint trace of this particular aspect in the background of the fragrance. It works rather well in this composition, as it tames the melon-y freshness. This part of the accord gradually loses intensity though never disappears from the development. A subtle woodsy note takes its place as the main base for the violet. Light and unobtrusive – diametrically opposed to Balenciaga Paris – this scent is well-suited for a warm spring or summer day. Lasts roughly four hours on my skin.

This fragrance opens with a sugary spice note with a distinctive smoky-earthy facet. A touch of citrus brightens the main top note. As the scent dries the overall sweetness fades and the very pleasant opening gradually becomes an almondy, soapy accord. What I see now is like a citrus-heavy Louve by Serge Lutens; an impression that later dissolves into rhubarb with a vague wood/cinnamon-like base. This is the second vetiver fragrance that turns into rhubarb on my skin, but at least it is not as unpleasant as Sel de Vetiver. The dry down is a fresh vetiver-cinnamon accord. Lasts slightly more than four hours on my skin

This fragrance opens with diaphanous smoke aroma enriched by earth and woods. It would be a quite enjoyable head accord, if only it were a tad stronger. What I see reminds me very much of Palais Jamais (smokiness) and Terre d’Hermes and Timbuktu (earthiness) – but it could be an olfactory illusion since the fragrance is so sheer (almost to a fault) on my skin. The more I analyse the fragrance, the more I discover similarities with Terre d’Hermes and Timbuktu. Vettiveru may be less sparkly than Terre, and it may be less complex than Timbuktu, but it focuses mote on the vetiver and cedar notes. Lasts 6 hours on my skin.

This fragrance opens with an accord of vetiver mixed with light flower and citrus notes. The tropical grass is not smoky and earthy as usual, but creamy and subtly spicy, almost like the rice note of Miller&Bertaux's A Quiet Morning. This is due to the careful blend of vetiver, rose and nutmeg. On my skin the heart accord is a geranium-sweetened rose wrapped in a sheer layer of vetiver with subtle specks of spices and cedar. The citrus notes have not gone yet, they bring air and sparkle to the composition. However, the mix of woodsy notes and bergamot does not react well with my skin chemistry, because I notice a sweaty-metallic undertone in the accord which is typical of this particular kind of citrus. Nonetheless, this summery Dyptique is very pleasant and subtle, therefore office-friendly and suitable for anyone. Lasts eight hours on my skin.