WRoth

Opens with a wonderful violet note - similar to the one found in Balenciaga Paris, but not as artificial and loud. A mentholated green note and bright bergamot frame the flower. The fragrance is very light and fresh, but sadly not stable at all. After only a few minutes the violet impression dissolves into a blend of anise, geranium and vetiver. I now see a crisp woodsy-green composition of dry wood, crushed leaves and warm spicy accents. The scent is perfect for spring/summer, but not really what I was looking for. I was hoping for a much better violet experience and the promised leather accord is nowhere to be found as well. However, I have to concede that the sillage is wonderful, softer and fuller (thanks to musk and tonka bean) than what I see close to the skin.

Opens with a watery blend of green and floral notes. The accord is sweet (rose) and fresh (freesia) the perfect opening for a spring/summer fragrance. However, much to my surprise the scent gradually takes a turn into a sweeter, denser territory: once the top notes vanish I see a magnolia-enhanced lily of the valley-accord. The powdery, creamy qualities of magnolia contrast nicely with the acidic dewiness of lily of the valley. This play with contrasting sensations like crisp/smooth, acidic/sweet, powdery/watery, dense/gauzy makes Inflorescence really special. Additionally, the central lily of the valley accord is very well-made not too artificial/functional fragrance-like. The base is made with a heady jasmine and a silky woodsy musk; they anchor the fragrance to my skin and conclude its story with a luminous floral dry-down.

Opens with a crisp, aromatic green note. The namesake gardenia accord is barely perceptible, relegated to the background. A salty citrus note joins the green top notes, pushing the floral accord further back. I think gardenia's function is to anchor the top notes to the skin and to balance their bite with its restrained sweetness. Gardenia Grand Soir is not at all what I expected and only mildly interesting.

This fragrance opens with a classic Eau de Cologne accord (think Chanel Les Exclusifs) layered over an unusual gourmand base. Bamboo, citrus and amber somehow create a delicious Thai curry illusion that could compete with Miller & Bertaux's A Quiet Morning for the title of best exotic gourmand. Lavender and cedar keep the gourmand accord somewhat in check. It is cedar that dominates the composition from the mid-development onwards, creating a pleasantly dry and woodsy dry-down.