Weihrauch

Nuit de Feu. Louis Vuitton. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. Keywords that evoke associations, opinions and thoughts in many minds. I ask critics now times briefly these "thoughts" to mute.

I like to describe the scent hobby as a journey. One makes oneself on the way with an empty backpack. This backpack is filled and emptied again and again in the course of the journey. You meet companions and companions. You exchange experiences and even get to know yourself. One grows with and at his scents.

In the summer of 2017, I surfed on "For the love of fragrance" as I was looking for a birthday gift. I came across the perfume categories, more specifically the individual fragrances. Much seemed familiar and understandable, but then I read: incense, juchte, leather, balsamic.
My thoughts, "Like, what, wow? There's incense and resins in fragrances?".

A few months and sample orders later, I registered here under the name "Frankincense" (Willi Tonka already existed, sorry, kidding).

I do not want to seem arrogant here, as I have "only" tested about 600 fragrances and I should actually still have a good 100,000 ahead of me. Nevertheless, I am currently experiencing so-called "Pinnacle" moments (explanation: highlights, summits). Meanwhile, I can sound out clear favorites, be it with certain brands or even entire fragrance categories (this definitely includes that I have tested all the candidates relevant to me).

Nuit de Feu belongs to my personal "Pile of Pinnacle". More specifically, it is the best smoky, balsamic, "woodsy" scent for me. Why...?

...Because he is for me (as mentioned in my blog), in balance. It hits the happy medium of wearability and concept. Of courage and restraint. Of perseverance and calmness. Out of quality and serenity. Out of crystallization of individual notes and fusion into a great whole.
It does not matter whether Louis Vuitton launches this fragrance or Areej Le Doré.

I picked up a great definition of Nui de Feu: the scent doesn't smell like you're standing in a burning forest, it smells like a burning forest outside the city. And that, I think, sums it up very well.

Thank you for reading, and thus your most precious gift, time.

...uninteresting title? I don't care...

...I don't care that the bottle doesn't have a cap...
...I don't care that it's Wednesday...
...I don't care that it's autumn...
...I don't care how the scent runs...
...I don't care who smells it...
...I don't care who can't smell the scent...
...I don't care that the scent is synthetic..
...I don't care that it contains only one scent molecule...
...I don't care what the drydown is...
...I don't care how expensive the scent EIA is...
...I don't care if I go to a birthday party...
...I don't care that I'm at a funeral...
...I don't care that you criticize the smell...
...I don't care who loves the smell...

...I don't care if you don't find the commentary helpful...

...I don't care... if M01 was the last fragrance on earth...

Today I would like to be a little shorter. Today I don't want to fall into poetry or euphemistic, infantile analogies

Today, I would simply like to explain to you why Ambergris Aurea is a true revelation, 22 years after its appearance, and that this fragrance could appear in 22 years and still be a revelation

Many describe this fragrance here as an amber scent. Sorry to disappoint you, but this is NOT a blend of benzoin, styrax resin and labdanum, which is used in other fragrances as an amber accord.

Whether there is still real ambergris in here, I don't know, but the scent is multilayered.

Ambra Aurea shows every time I wear it why I like the brand Profumum Roma so much. Few scents. Simple and straightforward structure and yet an absolutely complex fragrance with outstanding durability and quality.

In my opinion, Ambra Aurea is the Magnus Opum of the Indie House.

Immediately after spraying it on, a warm, opulent, almost caramel-like aura radiates around you with fine, almost silky smoke. Fortunately, this is not scratchy, cold or even dry smoke. From hour to hour the fragrance becomes more and more sweet and fine. I don't want to say sweeter, because then you associate vanilla or something like that. In addition, this slightly balsamic, resinous and smooth smoke is preserved.

The sillage is never atomic but always in the centimetre range. You also get to smell the scent over and over again, which I consider perfect. The durability is not calculated in hours but in days, on clothes even in weeks. This is due to the high concentration of fragrance oil. Here opinions differ. Some report 30%, others even 42%. I can only say that this is the first fragrance where the sprayer is gradually covered by a creamy, crumbly mass. Not bad, you can wipe it off, but in any case the concentration of fragrance oil is extremely high.

I have been sneaking around Ambra Aurea for about 6 months now. But now I am very happy that he has moved in with me, because this fragrance is simply a potpourri of everything I love!

No more, no less.

For those who complain about the price I will give the following information. Ambra Aurea is not a fragrance that you can wear every day, even once a week is too much, especially in the warm months. But nevertheless I can only say that you can wear it at least every two weeks and thus get by with 100ml for several years.

Now the comment has become longer. After all, plans and rules are there to break them, or ?

Thanks a lot!

Your incense

Well hello first of all dear perfume friends,

you already notice, I have holidays and so I (finally) get to reflect and write.

Today: Salted Green Mango.

Just a few days ago I was raving to you about Louis Vuitton's Sur La Route. That I only discovered this fragrance in 2019, that I feel comfortable with this fragrance Sau and that it would be the best designer fragrance for me. So a real "eye-opener".

Now I got my bottle of Salted Green Mango at the end of December, and I have a similar feeling of well-being.
Let me explain briefly why SGM is also an "eye-opener"...

SGM was the first fragrance I tested from indie perfumer Prin Lomros. And I don't have to climb on the "hypetrain" as well, I'll tell you one thing: everything positive you read or hear about Prin is true...

SGM is his orderer and also his personal favourite scent, as he designed it based on his childhood memories in Thailand. And man people, designed is the right word:

The fragrance starts incredibly fresh and green. But not a European, classic, fern green, rather a moist, tropical jungle green.
This is immediately joined by a relaxed sweetness that probably comes from the pineapple, mango and gooseberry. But for me, this Trinity smells more like honey.
This "honey" is accompanied by a tart and slightly hot rose that dances with the petitgran until the end of the fragrance. During the dance, salt and chili are also added to the mixture.

So much for the fragrance character.

But why is SGM a door opener?

1. You get the described scent from the beginning, so the scent is also very linear. Because Prin Lomros is not a fan of head notes.
2. On the skin this fragrance will last you at least 10 hours, on clothes of course longer. This is extremely rare for such a green, fruity fragrance.
3. This description is very subjective. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that Bleu de Chanel, for example, is interpreted in a similar way by 80% of all people. However, since SGM is very complex but transparent at the same time, everyone will be able to elicit a different facet of the fragrance.
4. Because of SGM, I ordered Prin's entire portfolio as samples and I have to say that I have never had such a high number of hits of good, innovative and high-quality fragrances. And so I also feel comfortable with SGM and the scents of Prin einfach Sau!

As you can see, I have little to counter the smell. But I will certainly do this in my upcoming commentary on "Sombre" by Strangers.

Thanks for reading it!

Your incense

Dear Perfume Community,

this is all very crazy.

Basically, man is so predisposed that he believes he is living in an objective truth. But the fact is that every human being lives in his own subjective reality.
This can be seen very well in the example of the Internet, social media, or forums like this one here.
Especially with topics such as fragrances, which are taken up very individually, the so-called "clash" ensures interesting developments and insights.

For the last two and a half years I have tried to find a line for myself to give myself clarity. As I have neither the money nor the space to own 100e bottles, I was looking for the direction to concentrate and learn.

Independent houses here, niche fragrances there, cheapies there, mainstream here, rankings, comparisons, fan-boy bashes, batch discussions.
Even on scents I tried to limit myself. Just to keep track of things.

But because of Sur La Route by Louis Vuitton I realized that all these thoughts of the last two and a half years are just subjective nonsense.
Recently I realized and also wrote a blog about how incredibly high quality and interesting independent perfumes are. I'm not backing away from that either.
But even here, unfortunately, I had to realize that art has nothing to do with wearability, perfumers craft with pleasantness and innovation with satisfaction.

But this fragrance showed me absolute perfection like no other.

The leather note is not leather but balsamic. The freshness runs through the entire fragrance and the citric acid always says "Hello, I'm still here too" even after 7 hours.
But the most fascinating thing about the fragrance is that you don't smell like you're wearing a perfume .
I don't want to start with the tiresome topic of "compliments", we should all know by now that we wear perfumes for ourselves and not for our environment. But it's interesting to see that no other fragrance has brought me so many compliments as Sur La Route.
The fragrance simply exudes an aura of good smell and not the maybe too much applied or even annoying perfume. This is combined with the perfect shelf life, the high-quality sprayer, the timeless flacon and the attractive packaging. "Sure, it's LV" some of you would think now, but this total package has nothing to do with the origin. But I notice also alone at the "Juice" how high-quality this is made and which perfumer's art has flowed in.
With this commentary, I not only want to bring the fragrance closer to you, but also encourage you to look more often into the meta-level. The distribution channel doesn't count, the brand doesn't count, the price doesn't count, the talk of nerve-racking people like me doesn't count...it's always the fragrance in the glass that counts.

This year I already gave T-Rex from Zoologist the 10/10. But unfortunately, I had to drop it down to 9/10, because it is simply not suitable for everyday use.
Welcome Sur La Route to my Olympus.

Thanks for reading!