WildGardenerWildGardener's Perfume Reviews

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WildGardener 2 days ago 4

Patchouli suited and booted
Last time I looked, Givenchy had six Gentleman's in their line up, and that's not
counting the Gentlemen.
Right now, I'm gonna ignore all those Johnny Come Lately's and deal with the main man.
Gentleman (1974) is a woody aromatic with citrus and herbs, and a fruity note like mango. There's a sharp lavender and bitter patchouli.
It smells dark, formal and hard; what a Cold War defector might wear.

WildGardener 4 days ago 2

No-vis
It's a consciously retro scent, an aldehydic floral in the style of a parfum fourrure - a fur perfume.
And it’s interesting that François Robert - scion of the Robert family – opened his ouvre in this style. Because this, his first work, echoes that of his grandfather Guy: Caleche - an aldehydic leather, and maybe Lasso (although I don’t know it) a leather chypre with peach - which also features here.
Vison (which means mink) is a rather formless and thick chypre, sweetish but
somehow unpleasant with a hide-like feel. Where Caleche is opulent, this is
oppressive.
In case you were in any doubt about what you were buying, the bottle cap is wrapped in a furry hat, probably not mink, but anyway - a piece of dead animal.
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WildGardener 7 days ago 2

Crazy Obsession
A sweet & sour powdery amber in the style of Obsession.
Not an original theme, but Dominique Ropion teased out a venomous green and over ripe twist to the fruit and resins. Think Obsession meets Diorella.
Comme des Garçons parfum (1994) has a similar kind of sickly feel but there it’s a bit more spicy.
Not suprisingly then, a challenging work like this has long been out of production. You can still find it though.

WildGardener 9 days ago 2

Coquette by Colette
Gigi is one of a trilogy from this house that deals with controversial literary subjects : [Oscar] Wilde – who was prosecuted for gross
indecency with another man, Orlando – a gender morphing poet in a Virginia Woolfe novella, and Gigi – a novel by Colette where a young girl is raised to be a courtesan.
Gigi’s story is said to be based on Yola Letellier (you can see her photo by Man Ray on her Wikipedia English page). Letellier married a man forty years her senior, who was a newspaper magnate and mayor of Deauville, the über swanky resort in Normandy where Chanel opened her first boutique.
With this kind of backstory, you might expect these ‘white flowers of the Belle Epoque’ to be different from the average, and they are.
Gigi opens with a strange exotic fruit, somewhere between citrus,
lychee and peach; enticing but vulnerable, a lustrous milky green, pale, more bitter than sweet.
It develops an orange flower and tuberose bouquet, which is sweetly floral but harshly indolic. It’s as if - as she grows – Gigi masters the art of seduction - but at a price. She remains the innocent, but has a
difficult side to her worldly charms.
All three of the trilogy are built around orange flower. The other two are too dusty, dry, and this is the only success; with a fine balance of sweet and sour, it stays open and luminous.

WildGardener 12 days ago 3

Slow decay
Autumn is a time of ripeness, the completion of the yearly cycle of growth and
maturity, and so, to the weary farmer - whose fields are full of waving grain - it’s a time of plenitude and celebration.
But there is another side to autumn, the decline of summer into barren winter, a shift from growth to decay, from life springing forth - to its return back to the earth.
And it’s this poignant, melancholy side to autumn that Eau Lente captures. Its russet resiny scent is full, over ripe, almost putrid.
It is said that the formula derives from an ancient scent which was known to Alexander the Great, and it wouldn’t surprise me to learn it was used to embalm his body, such is the sweet spicy ripeness of it all.
With Eau Lente I was looking for an autumn perfume, but instead of a harvest festival I found something more akin to a funeral.

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